(Topic ID: 229519)

Surf Champ Line Cord Replacement Question


By ChipS

12 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by ChipS
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 7 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG20181119120425 (resized).jpg
IMG20181119120317 (resized).jpg
IMG20181119120116 (resized).jpg
SurfChamp Transformer02b (resized).jpg
Surf Champ Schematic02b (resized).jpg
SurfChamp Plug04 (resized).jpg
SurfChamp Plug02 (resized).jpg

#1 12 months ago

I recently purchased a Surf Champ (Gottlieb 1976) and when I got it home, I realized the plug was shot. I was going to simply replace the plug, but when I cut the wire, I realized there were just two black-coated wires and a green one in the middle. (See photos)

Both the black wires were smooth - so there was no way to tell which one was "hot" and which on was "neutral." (I supposed the "hot" goes to the copper-colored screw, and the "neutral" to the silver-colored screw, but I'd have to dissect the plug to figure out which wire went to which screw, and even then, I'd have to assume whoever wired this did it properly.)

So I've decided to replace the entire cord. Only problem is, I'm a relative newbie and have never done it. Yes, I've read Vids posts on replacing the plug, line, etc. but want to make sure I am doing this correctly, so I don't kill the game or myself.

(Question: The cord "appears" to be original, as it is part of the wiring harness bundle. Are these the kind of plugs Gottlieb sent out with the game in 1976?)

So I'll purchase a new cord that has black / white / green wiring. Two questions:

1. Can someone confirm that the transformer is currently wired correctly, according to the schematic?

2. If so, then I want to duplicate it with the new cord, correct? So the black wire goes to the fuse (yellow circle); the white wire goes to the "normal" tap bottom (white circle) and the green wire goes to the transformer ground (green circle).

Thanks in advance for your help!

SurfChamp Plug02 (resized).jpgSurfChamp Plug04 (resized).jpgSurfChamp Transformer02b (resized).jpgSurf Champ Schematic02b (resized).jpg
#2 11 months ago

That would be correct yes. I buy the 12-15 ft 3 wire cord at wal mart (9 bucks) and just cut the female end off and wire it in

#3 11 months ago

Thanks! Do you know if that is standard issue cord for Gottlieb games of that era? Flat cord with both hot and neutral being the same color?

#4 11 months ago

Also, any issues I should know about soldering what will be the new white/neutral wire to the transformer? A friend said it's best to avoid heat on the transformer - not sure why...

#5 11 months ago
Quoted from ChipS:

Also, any issues I should know about soldering what will be the new white/neutral wire to the transformer? A friend said it's best to avoid heat on the transformer - not sure why...

You need to solder on to the transformer. Certainly you dont want excessive heat but thats how its done. (The line hot lead, brass screw in plug, smaller of the two prongs is the hot, should be fused)

#6 11 months ago

Gotcha. And with new cords, the "hot" is typically black and the "neutral" is white, correct?

Thanks for your help, both of you! Much appreciated.

#7 11 months ago

I sometimes refer back to Clay's EM guide:

"For better safety, it's not a bad idea to replace the game's original two prong power cord with a grounded three prong cord. Again, the same technique can be used - buy an inexpensive three prong 15 foot extension cord at the Dollar store and cut off the recepticle end. Also again the new power cord should have a "ribbed" insulator wire which connects to the larger of the two power prongs. This is the "neutral" (white) wire. The "hot" (black or smooth wire or narrow prong) should connect to the line going to the power switch. The green ground wire should connect to the transformer's metal frame bolt. Optionally, additional grounds can then be run from the transformer's metal frame to other metal objects (like the lockdown bar and metal side rails and metal leg plates)."

#8 11 months ago
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:

I sometimes refer back to Clay's EM guide:
"For better safety, it's not a bad idea to replace the game's original two prong power cord with a grounded three prong cord. Again, the same technique can be used - buy an inexpensive three prong 15 foot extension cord at the Dollar store and cut off the recepticle end. Also again the new power cord should have a "ribbed" insulator wire which connects to the larger of the two power prongs. This is the "neutral" (white) wire. The "hot" (black or smooth wire or narrow prong) should connect to the line going to the power switch. The green ground wire should connect to the transformer's metal frame bolt. Optionally, additional grounds can then be run from the transformer's metal frame to other metal objects (like the lockdown bar and metal side rails and metal leg plates)."

this is already a 3wire game

#9 11 months ago

Yes, I know that. Used to own a Surfer.
The intent was to give the OP something in print that confirmed his question on the white and black wires.

#10 11 months ago

Thanks, guys!

Rusbikeskilee, since you used to own a Surfer, can you confirm that the wire/plug shown in the photos above was the one which came with the game? That had two black wires and a green ground in between them? Since the power cord is bundled with the other wires in the wire harness, I assumed it came with the game. Not that it matters at this point, just curious since this is my first Gottlieb.

#11 11 months ago

Chip, it's been several years since I had the Surfer in front of me. I know it had a 3-wire plug, but I don't recall exactly what the plug looked like.

To tell the truth, your plug does not look like a product from the mid-late 70's. I do recall the old style plugs like yours that had brass screws inside a round housing to secure the wires to the prongs, but my memory would have associated that style with with 60s or very early 70s.

Not sure I can give you an answer, but it's usually not that difficult to work the plug wire into the bundle and get past the ties.

#12 11 months ago

Thanks! And sorry for the misspelling on your handle.

#13 11 months ago

IMG20181119120425 (resized).jpgIMG20181119120317 (resized).jpgIMG20181119120116 (resized).jpgI hope this might give you a idea. To make it easy for your self take the bottom board out of the machine undo the three screws and then change the chord a lot easier. Good luck and be careful.

#14 11 months ago

When re-furbishing an EM assume that the power cord has been replaced by an inferior product, or that it is original, which is inferior too.

#15 11 months ago
Quoted from Raff:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]I hope this might give you a idea. To make it easy for your self take the bottom board out of the machine undo the three screws and then change the chord a lot easier. Good luck and be careful.

Raff,
your transformer isn't the same to OP's.......he got a 115V only, not dual....and no Jones plug.

#16 11 months ago

Thanks, everyone!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
€ 8.40
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
BK Pinball
$ 25.00
Displays
Pappy's Pinball Palace
$ 100.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
$ 44.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
From: $ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Music City Pinball
$ 7.00
Electronics
APB Enterprises
$ 29.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Full Tilt Pinball LEDs
$ 269.99
$ 269.00
Lighting - Led
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
$ 399.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Great American Pinball
$ 38.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 15.00
From: $ 65.00
Lighting - Other
Professor Pinball
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 35.00
$ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 209.00
$ 99.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 22.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
ModFather Pinball Mods

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside