New owner here! Fun game!

Desc: New silicone rings all around. Flippers rebuilt. Latest ROMs installed. New Xpin power supply board. Original translight and manual included. Extras include full LEDs, BriteCaps™ EVO Pop Bumper Lighting, Energi Maestro LED smoother to eliminate annoying flashing.
3/21/2016: replaced batwing cannon ball-detection switch.

Here's some pics. Boat mod kind of hard to see.

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Thanks! I'd love to see your products! You have a web site or something?

Had to order these this weekend: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DT1050

Snapped 2 of them with a well-placed ball!

Do you think they snapped because the plastic was old?

How often do you guys replace those?

(purchased 2 sets, to have extras)

My flippers have been recently rebuilt. The coils are not original (I did not replace them myself). I wouldn't say the coils are overly aggressive, if that's where you're going?

I can tell you that the way the C.A.V.E. drop targets are molded, they have a major weak point. A strong ball could snap 'em. Happened to me, but the plastic was old and possibly brittle. Still, the drop targets have holes in them for the components to attach to (switch and spring). That's where they are the weakest. Don't live in fear, stock up!

Lazy way of replacing the C.A.V.E. drop targets.

Remove both pins from the bottom of the "cage" (the metal box that houses the drop targets). This will allow you to remove the bottom peice (the piece that hinges on the pins, that the coil actuates). Mind the coil as you do this.

Feed down the new drop targets from the playfield side. Pass them through the metal ramp wires. As you do this, tilt them diagonaly and wiggle them. I was able to feed them through this way.

Because you have removed the bottom of the cage, you can push the drop target further down than usual and have more room for your fat hands to do the next step. Attach the springs to the new drop targets. Secondly, attach the other end of the springs to the cage.

Reinstall the bottom "swivel" part with the 2 pins, you know, clean up.

Tada.

Yoko2una, awesome mod! Great idea! Tell me about the other parts you used? comet led? etc?

Greetings! I am investigating why my batwing cannon is not swinging anymore (the ball loaded switch and the coil works fine). I was wondering, in the batwing gun test, there are 3 items:

The ball loaded switch
The home switch
The gun safety switch

Looking at the schematics, looks like there's only one gun switch under the playfield.

What is the gun safety switch?

Thanks for any info! Cheers!

That's what I imagined too. But like I said, there's only one switch. One switch that serves both purposes?

I think it was a cracked solder on the motor relay board. All better now.

True dat.
5 months though? And how much is that "custom job"?
Perhaps using the color replacement that uses a raspberry pi computer is a better solution? Surely faster to implement than 5 months, hopefully.
EDIT: Link to what I am talking about:

Added over 8 years ago: Manufacturer's link for this: http://www.drpinball.co.uk/dmdextender.htm

Same here.

Me neither. But it's a viable alternative to keep the game going.

The right ramp anchors to the playfield using 2 small screws. Plastic will crack around those 2 screws. The ramp should have been mounted to a post (at least). I might make that mod, unless we can score new ramps.

I had read that green is rare / hard to make?

Would black be easier? Would black ramps be cool?

I am not sure about clear ramps. The back of the playfield is kind of cool. Might be nice to see it through the ramps.

I'd be in for a set of new ramps.

Make a backup / copy of your entire sd card. You can keep the backup on a computer, or another sd card. Don't rely on just one card.

I'd be up for a right ramp.

Same here. Terrible design how the right ramp anchors to the playfield. Using 2 tiny screws to anchor the base of it is not a good plan.

Yep, same here. The ramp might rock a little from side to side sometimes, but only if hit in a particular way.

That's probably true. Hm. Well, I'd be up for a set then.

UNREAL. Wow. Especially cool when the green and blue are used. What a mod!

Yes! Thanks for posting a nice fix with pics! Awesome job.

I have latest rom and mine is not sugar/spice.

Also, I disable that feature so the game starts in regular mode all the time.

Hello! Quick question.

To start an event, you have to hit all the "?".

Next step is to get the ball all the way in the top-left-corner via the right orbit. Correct? The ball lands in a scoop up there, and the event starts, and the ball is ejected out back into play.

Is it suppose to be super-hard to get the ball all the way up there?

(It is on my machine, and I was wondering)

Same here! Thanks for the post. Let's keep in touch with this issue! I would love to see cam footage of that shot! Funny, but a great idea! You're right, I can't tell why I miss the scoop at all, can't really see back there while you're playing.

Also, are you getting 50% success rate with the back of the playfield waxed, or not? I just waxed mine, but couldn't get clear and good access back there. Maybe if I wax the crap out of the right orbit, my success rate will improve...

My flippers were recently rebuilt (by previous owner). I can't tell you if they are weak or not. I can make all the ramps otherwise, but it has to be done properly. There's not botching the shot to get a nice right-ramp, you have to time it and hit it nicely.

The piece of sticky foam is an interesting idea... That would soak up some ball momentum indeed.

I can't make the top-left Start Event hole from the left flipper.

So I decided to lower the pitch of the machine.

Question: When a new ball is served from the shooter lane, is it supposed to land in the Start Event hole (then be ejected by the coil) ?

Or did I lower my deck too much?

Thanks guys.

Guys, it's an easy question. Anybody? Hello?

Thanks so much for the information! I think I'll adjust the pitch of the machine so it barely makes it in the saucer. That seems like a good plan.

I had adjusted the pitch of the machine the "standard" pitch, but there's no way to start an event that way. Thanks again!

Quick q. What is the most common reason the game would trigger too many multiball sessions?
Thanks guys.

Is that the horizontal wire that's supposed to drop and block the ball from coming back to you from the left orbit?

If so, when is that wire suppose to drop and block the ball?

Thanks for your post. I totally see what you mean. The rubber on my post there only partially covers the white color of the playfield there. It's not terribly thick, but I can see what you mean.

Did you re-install a thinner post rubber at all? Just metal on metal?

Well, I think I found my problem? I manually lowered that wire ball-guide thingy and started a game. It never was actuated back down!

That can't be normal.

I should have written my post differently. My one-way-gate is always up! It never falls back down.

It's supposed to fall back down "by gravity", correct?

EDIT: FIXED. It was bent in a weird way, so it wasn't falling back down. Now it free-flows. That's going to change the gameplay for sure. Duh!

EDIT 2: Spoke too soon. It does move from left to right. When it moves right, it then gets stuck in the up position forever? I need to study this.

EDIT 3: One-way-gate is part number 500-6040-00 and is hard to find?

EDIT 4: Found the culprit! It's the screw from the post on the right of the one-way-gate. The gate wire will eventually ride on top of that screw, then adding spring resistance (if you will) and the wire will get stuck up. I've screwed down the post screw, lowering it again. We'll see if that works.

Mine's purple. Looks very nice.

Does anybody have "lighted LED flipper buttons" for this game? I have blue ones on my STTNG. I was thinking of adding green ones on the batman forever. Thoughts? Technical challenges? Thanks guys.

EDIT: If so, what part number / kit did you get?

Clear buttons I understand. What about the LEDs? And how do you mount them inside so they light up the buttons? Staple them?

My STTNG has the kit that has the LED boards that are mounted on the inside. They have 3 LEDs I beleive, and the LEDs are soldered on the board.

Would you suggest getting a bigger LED then, and using only one per button?

Thanks! Awesome.

Awesome Work!

Wow!

That's a reason why I sold my BF when I had a LAH (side by side).