Nice work. Glad to hear that all if well. Now go defeat some bad guys on the way to big points!

Video is displaying a maverick, but I think you get the point of a replacement
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stolen-pin2dmd-color-rgb-controller-from-pinballspcom/page/12#post-3278809

Greetings,
Dom

Hello! Quick question.

To start an event, you have to hit all the "?".

Next step is to get the ball all the way in the top-left-corner via the right orbit. Correct? The ball lands in a scoop up there, and the event starts, and the ball is ejected out back into play.

Is it suppose to be super-hard to get the ball all the way up there?

(It is on my machine, and I was wondering)

Hi. Long answer...

Yes to start an event, you need 'Gotham Event' lit which is the right orbit, and then hit the orbit clean into the top left corner. Gotham Event is lit after hitting all 5 ?s, or obviously starting Gotham Event at plunge.

My right orbit to start a mode I think has a bit of a "Goldilocks Zone" as there are 4 potential outcomes.
1) Hit it too soft, and it dribbles into the top rollovers or even back down the right orbit.
2) Hit it well but it just doesn't have enough OOMPH to stay along the top guide rail coast to coast and it drops a shade and hits the gate for the left orbit and then bounces around the top left saucer, sometimes getting lucky.
3) You pure the shot correctly.
4) You hit the shot so hard that it has enough energy to bounce right out of the saucer.

I'd say right now I'm slightly above 50% successful when I hit the orbit. The shot works, but as stated, too fast or too slow and it risks not making the shot. I also think it goes without saying that just like the upper flipper needing to be strong, your bottom flippers need to be as well. I bet it's borderline impossible to hit the right orbit into the top saucer with a weak left flipper.

On top of that, the right orbit switch must be triggered. If your switch is too low to fully register, I don't think you can ever start a mode during game play, so make sure that is up high enough to register.

I have spent a fair amount of time analyzing this shot, mostly because I'm interested in scenarios 2 and 4 above. I wondered if a small piece of foam would negate #4 by absorbing the momentum. For #2, I've even considered a high speed camera to see where exactly I'm hitting early. I've plunged many times while standing up there just to see but it's very hard without slowing it down somehow. Ultimately I bet there could be a fix to allow some shots slightly off of center channel the ball in.

I just haven't had the time between work and family to look into this further, but I will be taking the glass off probably next month to do some small fixes to my BF and perhaps I'll score a camera by then and set up a little experiment.

If your attempts aren't hitting at least 50% on a good shot, you probably need to do some tweaking.

Good luck!

(Another thing I wish Sega did was locate the Batwing about 1" further towards the bottom of the PF. This would've allowed a Batwing shot to hit the right orbit with ease which would've been a really cool way to start modes, especially since Batman uses the Batwing in the movie to confront his enemies. If I'm lucky, I can hit maybe 10% of my right orbit shots from the Batwing, and the rest just hit the right rail and bounce around and dribble back which is a bummer.)

Same here! Thanks for the post. Let's keep in touch with this issue! I would love to see cam footage of that shot! Funny, but a great idea! You're right, I can't tell why I miss the scoop at all, can't really see back there while you're playing.

Also, are you getting 50% success rate with the back of the playfield waxed, or not? I just waxed mine, but couldn't get clear and good access back there. Maybe if I wax the crap out of the right orbit, my success rate will improve...

My flippers were recently rebuilt (by previous owner). I can't tell you if they are weak or not. I can make all the ramps otherwise, but it has to be done properly. There's not botching the shot to get a nice right-ramp, you have to time it and hit it nicely.

The piece of sticky foam is an interesting idea... That would soak up some ball momentum indeed.

Does anyone need new apron decals? I was able to remove mine from the apron and get them to my local printer to scan and print new ones. I haven't seen the finished product yet, but he was very confident that they would come out well.

Thanks for offering them, I'm good but I could use a couple of kick ass art cards to replace the rules and price cards.

I posted some a while back.

Dang I forgot about those, thanks for reminding me. I love the second one but I'm looking for another one, something without rules text on it. Got anything?

Going to pick up BF this weekend and was going to order my LED's so I can shop ASAP. Does anyone have a rough bulb count and type for the GI and the playfield?
Thanks for any info. Looked on the data base and the Manuel is incomplete so nothing on the lighting

My BF is NOT set to free play and it won't record a credit or fire the knocker when a game is "won". Is there a setting or something else that I'm missing? I have the latest game ROMS and the knocker is turned on in the settings. Help. I love the "pop" when I win a game.

Hmmmm no idea sorry. What does the manual say?

I hate to overstate the obvious... Mine was doing the exact same thing... no knock. Then I realized that the previous owner literally cut out the knocker. Had to buy the knocker and plate from PBL. Works like a charm! If it's there, check the wires to make sure none are broken off the coil.

Checked the manual and rechecked the set-up: Set up for a credit when winning a game and the knocker is turned on. The knocker does NOT work when I run the coil test. The wiring has continuity to the driver board and I have already replaced the driver and pre-driver transistors and I obviously need to run that issue to ground, but the thing that I don't get is that (forget the potential knocker issue) no credit is awarded when a game is won (an additional credit is not added to the existing credits). Is it possible that my electrical/electronic issue with the knocker results in no credit awarded when a game is won? Weird.

Wow, if you can replace transistors you know a heck of a lot more then me. Maybe you could ask Pinsider jewboyflowerchild, he lives in Omaha and knows alot about games.

I got my apron back all freshly powder coated. They were able to match the "rough" look to the paint.

Now I'm just waiting on the apron decals from the guy who does my printing.

Check pinball cards.com He makes amazing instruction cards. He's a fellow pinsider to boot

Yeah I know all about him but I want just pictures with no text. I want them bigger, big enough to cover the csrd slots in the apron. I then glue the pictures on to magnetic film which sticks real good and won't fall off. Problem is the cards aren't the standard size, it wouldn't be a problem for me if I still had my Mac with PhotoShop cuz I'd make my own. I REALLY miss my Mac.

Why did you get rid of your Mac?

It was a G4, dual 867mhz running OS3 I think and it just starting messing up really bad. Had it for 6 years.

First test with PIN2DMD XL in BF

I can't make the top-left Start Event hole from the left flipper.

So I decided to lower the pitch of the machine.

Question: When a new ball is served from the shooter lane, is it supposed to land in the Start Event hole (then be ejected by the coil) ?

Or did I lower my deck too much?

Thanks guys.

Does anyone have a Batman Forever speaker plastic they want to sell? New or used. Please PM me.

Thanks

I would like to get a new one too but nobody has one. Pinsider "dantina" has a topic about new speaker panels, sorry but I can't remember the name of it.

Does anyone know how to make one?

I am looking for one in the mich area of any body want to,sell

Have we got the mod for you, again. LOL Hope to show those off in about 2 weeks. Another complete line.

Dan

Oh Dan your killin me again.

Guys, it's an easy question. Anybody? Hello?

Yes. Most of the time, mine launches in the Start Gotham Event hole... but as discussed earlier, some of us have the occasional shot that doesn't always fall in the "Goldilocks zone" and is either too hard or soft to stick in the saucer.

Thanks so much for the information! I think I'll adjust the pitch of the machine so it barely makes it in the saucer. That seems like a good plan.

I had adjusted the pitch of the machine the "standard" pitch, but there's no way to start an event that way. Thanks again!

My new DMD is shipping out. I haven't played my Batman Forever since April.

As if by magic, cabinet decals now exist: http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/batman-forever-sega-pinball-cabinet-decals/

Dang, if they fit and stick good they look GREAT. Good price too.

My new DMD arrived today.

IMG_2071 (resized).jpg

Oh man that's great. A review when your ready would be great.

A review on the DMD? It's much better than my old one that stopped working.

I didn't like the extender option, so I went with this. If that newer LCD (?) option was available at the time, I would've went in that direction. I had ordered this back in May.

Had to bite the bullet myself last year when our DMD went out. Expensive piece of merchandise that's for SURE!
Well worth it though as we(my son and I) love this game.
Best SEGA out there?
Quite possible...
ENJOY

I think so too and I love the wireforms.

My bat cannon has some issues that I need to address. It occasionally doesn't recognize that it is loaded when the ball is present (I assume that is as simple as a switch that is dirty or failing). Once loaded and after starting to pan to the right, it won't consistently fire (using either the trigger or the flipper buttons) until it pauses at the right then pans back to the left. After that point, it will properly fire properly using either the trigger or the flippers. Lastly, it has a slight pause or hesitation about half way through the arc when panning from the right to the left. I haven't had one of these apart before, so I am wondering if there are any trips or traps that I should be aware of?

Large DMD Sega panels are nearly done, just a few finishing touches. Working on speaker artwork for Batman Forever, Baywatch and Maverick. Pictures done with panels in different brightness levels.

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0924161746_HDR_resized (resized).jpg

0924161746a_HDR_resized (resized).jpg

0924161746b_HDR_resized (resized).jpg

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WOW!!! That looks GREAT Dan. Here's a BF speaker opening you wanted. The BF panel plastic is so plain, just a bunch of question marks compaired to the MSF panel. maybe they could blink or fade off and on at random and all stay on, selectable like that.

IMGA0780[1] (resized).JPG

Just spent more time writing up the steps of how to paint your batcave ($10-$15 in supplies from Walmart and less than 30 minutes) than I spent painting it. Motivated after seeing another Pinsider's.

Then my wife walks in and says "Oh, I think I broke your little guy." You think? I spray painted a terror dog brown in the garage on a rather large piece of cardboard, hoping she'd see it and not drive the van back in and separate the leg from the body! Can't be too upset. She let's me keep this @5&%^$ hobby. Then I lost my detailed directions post. Figures.

If anyone wants the detailed steps, I'll write them out again. Simple and easy.

IMG_2524 (1).JPG

That looks FANTASTIC. Nice work hd !

Step 1: Paint bricks matte brown (Walmart $1.00 acrylic tube). Careful not to get brown in cracks so it looks like grey mortar.
Step 2 (optional): Paint the metal metallic silver (Walmart $2.00 acrylic tube). Careful not to cover the brighter, original silver. Makes a nice contrast.
Step 3: Paint the metal riveted highlights and the "Robin" symbol on the batsignal a metallic gold (Walmart $2.00 acrylic tube). Doesn't need to cover perfectly, couple thin coats... looks more rustic.
Step 4: Wash the stones, batsignal (and metal, if desired) with matte black paint (Walmart $1.00 acrylic tube). Wait til the gold dries. Then use a drop or two of black and thin it with water. Use a wider brush and slop the black over the stones. you're trying to get it in the cracks to create better highlights/shadows. Wait a minute or two then wipe away the excess with a paper towel. The longer you wait or the thicker the black wash, the darker it will be. Ideally, you'd wipe away so all raised objects wont have any paint on them. Careful not to use the wash on the bricks as it will fill in the cracks. It might look good, but the mortar cracks would be dark instead of lighter.

Brush set should be $5.00 at Walmart. I use the ones with the light blue handles and it has many different widths. Good luck!

Anyone know where I can find this part? In bad need of it can't find it anywhere

detail (resized).jpg

Marco doesn't have it? Where does it go?

No, sold out called them and they said they mite never have them again sucks there is a guy on here that made them in a post 3months back but he hasn't messaged me back yet. And the part goes under the playfield it alows it to pivot up to work under the playfield I can't do much work on my machine because of it and the playfield leans to one side I noticed can't believe it's this hard to find this piece