None on mine.

For all the haters who say this movie is trash, instead of the pop culture opera that it is......

#ReleaseTheSchumacherCut

How right you are, EVERY scene sooooo creative.

I finally got my game all put together and started playing it. I see what they say about airballs. I was wondering why the underside of the wire forms were banged up. It seems like the main culprit is the targets flexing back sending the ball flying. I'm going to try different foam backings. Has anyone had any luck trying to lessen air balls?

I think my right ramp is about done for with the screw holes starting to crack. Anyone done anything to fix them or keep them going? The rest of the ramp is fine just where it screws done to the playfield seems to becoming bigger than the screw and getting loose.

Has anyone tried to repair with a sheet of aluminum or anything?

Also any word on reproduction ramps?

Weld on 3 works really well for PETG ramps. I repaired all the hole cracks on mine.

I used Weldon and put a strip of 1/16” lexan on the bottom of the ramp. Then drilled holes where the screws would go. Seemed to work pretty well and it was barely noticeable when it was installed.

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Finally completed a mod that I've been wanting to do for a long time. I shared the start of this on the FB Sega group but it's done and ready to share here. The whole idea was to have the car sit on top of the ramp flasher to light the inside of the car and tonight I finished it by running a new LED to the lower backside of the driver side to backlight the green acrylic, splitting into the Welcome to Gotham City light. I may change the LED to a small strip of LEDs but tonight I can call it done.

I've included a bunch of pics in case someone wants to do one themselves. I do have more if interested. I also have a video or two but wasn't sure if i can upload it or juat have to share a link.

It's a bit of work but I think that it looks like it should have always been there.

Here is a video link mainly showing the flasher in action, this is before I fastened it down and the added the backlight LED for the acrylic behind the car.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1n81p62ZkQgbCErE9

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That looks great! I’d be interested in a video and maybe one for purchase, but I’m very curious about info for your display screen. Any info on that mod?

I don't recall if I had previously shared pics and detail in the group but if so it would have been long ago. I have no interest in making these (or the batmobile mod although i did make a second fluorescent green mounting base that I'd sell or trade - see those pics above) but will share the details in case someone wants to make their own.

I based this around the 'DMD Extender' which I am not sure is still available but was quite cool. I had installed one in my Star Wars DE prior to this one, in a simar way.

It is a small PCB that uses a Raspberry Pi that you buy/connect into the Extender. You copy the Extender code onto an SD card and then use its pass-through power cables and ribbon cable connectors to essentially place this in-line with your pins DMD controller and your DMD. In my case it is replacing my DMD instead of passing through to the old one. I think that people have used this extender to drive a smaller display located on the apron or as an additional display on the side or as a topper. The code allows for you to copy image files (jpg I think) to a folder and it will just cycle through them while on. I decided to rip maybe 100 images (might have been the max) from the blu-ray to act as a movie slide show above the game video.

I based the size of the display/speaker panel around an HP Pavilion 20" IPS display and the original sized speakers then created a custom MDF display and speaker panel/bezel to have it all sit in. I had to do it in two parts due to the Y axis limit on my home CNC. So one side has the long thin bottom and them I glued the other side to it. You can see where the small cut out is for the display buttons and power. This display always powers on when power is applied. I don't recall if that was a setting or not but was perfect for this. The PI outputs via HDMI and I might have used an HDMI to DVI cable to connect the display (can't see this on my phone right now but it is in the pics). To replicate the H-chamnel, I added an aluminum channel to the top of the display and an upside down one fastened on top of it to act as the receiver for the translight/backglass.

My remaining to-dos:
-print a custom translight for the backbox (I just have the original one curved and sitting in the H-channel) and cut a plexi
-finish it off with a small Batman logo to cover the HP display logo and the bottom of the screen
-possibly cover the speakers with a metal grill behind the speaker panel

Let me know if you have any questions.

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That’s great! Cool execution!

Thanks! This of course was pre ColorDMD and even pre large format Pin2DMD. If cash were no issue then ColorDMD with the full colour would be my obvious current choice but oh well.

I also have a PinSound in my BF which is fun replacing the sounds, especially a few of those really annoying sounds like end of ball sounds when the mini logos rip around the display or the multiball, multiball, multiball etc...

I’ll eventually get the colordmd once restore is done. I’ve been working on my pinsound orchestration too. Just picked one up and trying it out while refurbishing the game.

Trying to keep the original themes and soundtracks throughout. It’s a ton of files to creat and check though.

That looks GREAT. now try to get a pic with the flasher going off if you can.

Another great mod.

Thanks Paul!

I have a video that I added to the link above but I will add it here as well. Let me know if it works.

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Here is a video link mainly showing the flasher in action, this is before I fastened the car down and the added the backlight LED for the acrylic behind the car.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1n81p62ZkQgbCErE9

The ColorDMD looks amazing of course so it will complete your restore.

For the PinSound I added different music from the OST (Official Sound Track) which is kind of easier than getting into a lot of the smaller action based sounds but it is all neat. The problem that I had long ago was that there wasn't any starter sound file(s) set available so I had to create my own by ripping the ROMS. That was a bunch of work and easy to miss things so I still have that in use but I should actually download the one that has since been made available 'Original' and see how good/complete it it and then alter some of it from there.

Share your progress with your restore. I will also go back and see what you have done to date, if shared.

That flasher looks great. The underglow looks kind of like what I did for the bat plane. You did a great job on both of those.

Thanks again Paul. I recall seeing how you did the batwing and actually thought that I should route out a channel just the same. I didn't but should have.

Yours looks bright enough as it is.

hi all. ANyone have issues with ball draining when it is ejected from the batcave? Sometimes it hits edge of center hole in the wire form rea hard and clunks right down to the center drain. Other times it slows up and doesn't make it all the way down the wireform It will actually roll backwards and go down the space left in the wireform for it to collect down the center drain. Is there supposed to be a ball save lit when it ejects out the batcave? Seems to be that should have been part of the programming

Yes, this only happens to me in multiball if three balls are in the cave. The last one often misfires. If it is happening all the time, check the coil to make sure it is mounted firmly and correctly. Inspect sleeve etc.

Was thinking about grabbing a BMF and doing pinsound on it. I only saw one sound file available, is it any good?

Great question! I haven't tried the BF 'original' sound file on their site as it didn't exist when I started mine. I should actually download it and try it though and then modify the clips that I find annoying.

What I did was follow some instructions to rip the sounds from the digital sound roms with a special utility. There is a challenge in manually ripping the sound as I think that you could miss audio but the bigger challenge in making library is trying to determine which trigger fold type to place the files in. If the audio is in the wrong folder type then it won't behave properly and this will often be very noticeable. Hopefully whoever created the 'original' file set has everything in its place.

By any long shot does anyone have this decal handy to scan?

I’m my year long plus restoration I had that decal off the cannon cover, re-backed with adhesive ready to go. Of course it’s missing now.

Facepalm.

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Has anybody had an issue with the batwing cannon not reliably returning to the home position? It works fine but quite frequently I need to manually move it back into the home position so the ball will drop into the cannon. I am guessing this could be a switch adjustment issue but the switch is working and it does not seem like there is a way to adjust it.

Could be that it’s loose on the shaft and slips occasionally.

Hi Guys, just wanted to say hello.
A few days ago I added Batman to my collection. I have never played it anywhere, but It popped up on Ebay the price was right and I thought it would look cool right next to my Baywatch, which it kind of does. It doesn't play too bad either...

Having it played for a few days now I noticed some areas where the ball get's frequently stuck.
One place is the Batwing cannon, I don't know how but the ball somehow gets stuck between the ramps.
The next place is the plastic above the Cave drop targets it jumps on there and gets stuck behind the BatCave eject coil.
Maybe I am missing some parts, or the previous owner did mess up when he cleaned the game. Maybe someone can help?

The next thing is, the top left eject coil which feeds the pop bumpers often needs 5-6 attempts to get the ball out. It seems like the coil is too strong but according to the manual the correct 24-940 is in it. However the ball gets kicked out then hits one of the rubbers and then falls back into the saucer. Any fix for that?

I don't know if this is something which was done in factory, but did Sega change the size of the hex nuts used in this game? All the nuts are 1/4" size.
My Baywatch does have the usual 5/16" nuts like all my Stern and older WMS had. Even my X-Files which I owned in the past had 5/16"
Sure it's nothing major, but it just feels weird that Baywatch was assembled around the same time in 1995 and both games have different sizes.

I want to put some LEDs in my game but some of the current lamps have colored covers on them. Are these original? The lower half of the playfield has green covers and the area around the U-Turn ramp has red. When ordering LEDs I will try to stick to the original/factory color scheme.

The Batman software compared to my Baywatch is a mess. It feels like it take a ChadH treatment. I would lend him my game to do his magic, but I live in the wrong continent... Maybe someone nearby Chad is interested in helping out?

Thanks in advance!
Maximilian

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My Batman Forever has the same problem with the kicker in the upper left. I was just tinkering with the game today and that was one of the issues I looked at. There wasn’t a rubber sleeve on the post next to the saucer. I added the called for sleeve and at least the ball doesn’t get stuck. However it sometimes takes three or four kicks to land in a top lane instead of the saucer.

I don’t have balls jumping into the area under the bat cave. However the rollover switch exiting the bat cave quit working and I ordered one today. I installed a color DMD. My wife complains about the poor visibility in the upper playfield. I must admit we play our Lethal Weapon 3 much more than Batman Forever. I’m considering trading it for something else. It’s a game full of ramps and switches!

I don’t think a rubber goes on that post in front of the saucer. I recall reading about it somewhere.

I’ve read that here also. However the manual clearly depicts it. Without it the ball would rest upon the bare post and require a whack on the side cabinet to dislodge. I think guys are removing that rubber in an effort to stop the repetitive bounce back issue. Evidently that corner is just simply laid out poorly. It’s the Achilles heal of my Batman Forever.

When I had one, the ball would hit the rubber on one of the lane dividers and bounce right back in. This could happen 5-6 times before the ball finally took a different path. This game could’ve benefited from another month or so of testing/refinement.

True. But time is an issue… I think a singe drop target to divert the ball, like STTNG has. Would have resolved that issue.
I think a slightly weaker coil might help, I think I will try that.

Anybody know how to change the bulb in the start button?

I thought it was similar to WPC style with just a short twist, but it appears different on Sega.

Just yank it straight out. It’s a weird design.

Yeah, I tried that a few times and felt like I was going to snap it. Even with the switch removed from the clips. I’ll give it another whack. Thanks

It does break. Mine was hot glued back together when I purchased machine. A new one should arrive this week. The problem with glueing is that my start button is now spongy and takes a “deep” press to activate.

It’s a terrible design, I broke one by trying to twist it.

Thanks. Missed this response. This happens a lot when there is just one ball in play. It seems to clunk on the edge even when balls are slung hard around the bend. There is a ball save that is supppsed to be activated whenever it goes. Into the bat cave to be shot out. That only engages when the ball makes contact with the ejector button. Sometimes it will loose momentum after clipping the edge, roll slowly to almost make it all the way off the ramp,,, then rolls back and drains . By the time that happens… ball save time has expired. Anyway to extend ball save time on this game?

Can save ball time be ajusted?

I spent four hours yesterday and two today tuning up my pin. My switches in the bat cave were not always dependable. I noticed on my virtual pin that balls were ejected out of the bat cave with predictable timing. However on my real pin it could take 30 seconds to eject a ball. Turns out the widest part of the ball wasn’t resting on the respective micro switch. I adjusted the solenoid that blocks the ramp and solved that issue. Replaced roll over switch on cave exit because it had died last week. Replaced start button because it had been broken while previously changing light bulb. Adjusted bat cannon to rotate further to the right so I could hit right loop.

I think the game will be more enjoyable now. I’ve got the powder I want to use to powder coat armor. It’s the stripping of the old black powder coat that I dread. The stuff is hard to remove. I’m going with metallic neon green.

I dont believe there is a way to adjust ball save time in this situation. Something is causing the coil to not fire with enough force. Could be anything from loose mounting, to the coil sleeve, or the coil itself etc. Also, on my Batman Forever, if I screw the batcave cover art piece on too snugly it interrupts the eject process and can throw off the sequence. Make sure your slope and angles are good too.

Everyone says if you have to replace the bulbs on the start button on these SEGA games to get ready, there's a good chance its going to break!

The replacement from pinball life is much better. A quarter turn of switch unlocks it for removal.

I saw this on Ebay and thought it may interest others here. ebay.com link: itm

I have a 1995 SEGA Batman Forever that, after being on about 2 hours last night, the display started to freeze up with the images being distorted or sometimes just blobs or lines on the display. I reseated the DMD ribbon cables for the DMD control board and MPU as well as the ribbon cable for the DMD control board and the DMD. Reseated the connector for the power to the DMD control board too. I tried wiggling various ribbon cables or related connectors for any change with no success. I turned it off and back on and the display would be blank or just 'garbage'...then suddenly back to normal for awhile before eventually locking up again and having distorted images.( locks up or distorts on various screens, not the same place every time) The game plays fine and the MPU is not resetting. I turned it on today to try and get photos or video and it fired up fine so I'm wondering if it's heat related.Thanks!

Mine did that last week while I was working on other issue. I wiggled random DMD cables and rebooted. Started working properly and no further issues. I have the ColorDMD mod.

I tried that with no change. The only change I can get is when I reseat the ROMS on the DMD driver board. I reseated them and it played fine in attract mode for about a hour. Played one long intense game with no errors. If it returns I'm not sure what to do...spray the DMD driver board's ROM sockets with some type of electrical contact cleaner? Or send this holy grail of a DMD driver board off to a pro...

I’m looking for a NOS playfield for my BF. Anyone have one?

The problem was the ROM03 on the DMD driver board. Reseated it and wiggled/pushed it firmly into the socket and the DMD has been fine since.