(Topic ID: 89915)

Supersonic project in progress

By ahanson

9 years ago


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  • 21 posts
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  • Latest reply 9 years ago by ahanson
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#1 9 years ago

I'm working on bringing a Supersonic back to life and working through things as they pop up. First I had an issue with blowing some fuses and was able to fix the power supply board by replacing the CR diodes (in another thread). Now the machine is up and running but I'm having issues with lag in switch hits and things not registering like all of the drop targets being down and not resetting. I was going to try and do a switch test but I can't get into the service menu from the door. Also, neither of the coin switches seem to register either.

Typically it's the bottom drop target, spinner, and center pop that don't work. So when I knock down all the targets they don't reset, but they do on start up and between balls. The spinner never registers and the center pop never fires. I've checked the diodes on them and the leaf switch and they test OK.

So I'm wondering, how do I fake out the MPU to get it into the service menu?

Also, I noticed that if I hold both flippers in for a few seconds I blow F4. I was flipping both at the same time and noticed the lamps dimming and just tried it and the fuse blew. Not sure what to check there. Maybe EOS switch?

#6 9 years ago

Are there specs for the cap replacements on the driver board? I was looking at picking some up from Mouser or Newark.

Would these work fine?
150uf 450v
http://www.newark.com/panasonic/eet-hc2w151ca/unknown/dp/01M7651

and 15,000uf 35v
http://www.newark.com/cornell-dubilier/slpx153m035c9p3/unknown/dp/97M5164

#7 9 years ago

Took the MPU board off and I'm pretty sure it has some battery damage. I ordered an Ultimate MPU and I'll work on the original board later (maybe). I also ordered the capacitors for the driver board updates but while I have it out I thought I'd try and clean it. It's very dirty.

What do I use to clean the board with? Can I use a q-tip and some 92% alcohol?

driver-board-front-1280.jpgdriver-board-front-1280.jpg
#8 9 years ago

Oh, and would it be a good idea to swap the q20 and q21 transistors since they're pretty rusty?

#15 9 years ago

I don't think the machine was in a fire as the rest of the boards and backbox look fine, as does the rest of the machine. Not sure if this was a "replacement" board though from something else. My guess is it was in storage for quite a while but it definitely looks like it's seen better days. Rust might be from the cold freeze/thaw we have here in MN. I thought about getting an Ultimate driver board too but since this one still seems to work I thought I'd try and restore it first.

1 week later
#19 9 years ago

I got new capacitors installed and did the ground mods to the driver board and put the new MPU in place and now it seems everything is working. I had to work through a few switches that needed some care but I think it's working again. I have a ton of lights out and the playfield is super dirty but after a nice tear down and cleaning I think it should be a good player again.

As I was playing it the first couple times it seemed like the bonus hole wasn't registering quickly but now after adjusting the switches and such it seems to be fine but I'm going to watch it and see. I didn't end up swapping out the rusty regulator yet but I might do that if things seem a bit wonky.

Thanks for all the help.

#21 9 years ago

Figured out my flipper problem too burning out fuses. Turns out it's the right flipper that someone decided to remove the diodes. Apparently whoever played it before never trapped a ball.

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