(Topic ID: 89915)

Supersonic project in progress

By ahanson

9 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by ahanson
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hv bally.jpg
driver-board-front-1280.jpg
#1 9 years ago

I'm working on bringing a Supersonic back to life and working through things as they pop up. First I had an issue with blowing some fuses and was able to fix the power supply board by replacing the CR diodes (in another thread). Now the machine is up and running but I'm having issues with lag in switch hits and things not registering like all of the drop targets being down and not resetting. I was going to try and do a switch test but I can't get into the service menu from the door. Also, neither of the coin switches seem to register either.

Typically it's the bottom drop target, spinner, and center pop that don't work. So when I knock down all the targets they don't reset, but they do on start up and between balls. The spinner never registers and the center pop never fires. I've checked the diodes on them and the leaf switch and they test OK.

So I'm wondering, how do I fake out the MPU to get it into the service menu?

Also, I noticed that if I hold both flippers in for a few seconds I blow F4. I was flipping both at the same time and noticed the lamps dimming and just tried it and the fuse blew. Not sure what to check there. Maybe EOS switch?

#3 9 years ago

What Vid linked and you need to rebuild the connectors as well.

#4 9 years ago

You have a big project in front of you (not really that big, but it sounds dramatic).

I'd start by replacing any SCANBE chip sockets or any sockets that you can pull the chips out of by hand.

I'd also do the pin connectors and the caps on the driver board.

Once you get those done, you can start to fix any remaining problems. Otherwise you could just chase your tail.

The flippers sound like EOS switch gap problem.

#5 9 years ago

Yes, flipper problem is related to EOS switch on the flipper not opening when the flipper is up.

#6 9 years ago

Are there specs for the cap replacements on the driver board? I was looking at picking some up from Mouser or Newark.

Would these work fine?
150uf 450v
http://www.newark.com/panasonic/eet-hc2w151ca/unknown/dp/01M7651

and 15,000uf 35v
http://www.newark.com/cornell-dubilier/slpx153m035c9p3/unknown/dp/97M5164

#7 9 years ago

Took the MPU board off and I'm pretty sure it has some battery damage. I ordered an Ultimate MPU and I'll work on the original board later (maybe). I also ordered the capacitors for the driver board updates but while I have it out I thought I'd try and clean it. It's very dirty.

What do I use to clean the board with? Can I use a q-tip and some 92% alcohol?

driver-board-front-1280.jpgdriver-board-front-1280.jpg
#8 9 years ago

Oh, and would it be a good idea to swap the q20 and q21 transistors since they're pretty rusty?

#9 9 years ago

You can just blow the board off with some canned air, or air compressor.

If you don't care about the stickers, you can put it in the dishwasher.

If it were mine, I'd replace the Caps, the rusty transistors, the male connector pins and do the ground mods.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from ahanson:

Oh, and would it be a good idea to swap the q20 and q21 transistors since they're pretty rusty?

Yes, I certainly would replace any transistor that is rusty. You can buy all the transistors and capacitors needed for this board from Great Plains Electronics.

That board needs a serious washing. It's filthy!

#11 9 years ago

But doesn't the rusty transistor give it that aged look?

#12 9 years ago

That board looks sooty. Was this machine in a fire?

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

That board looks sooty. Was this machine in a fire?

Well that would explain the rusty transistor. Engulfed in smoke and then hosed down. Good call.

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

That board looks sooty. Was this machine in a fire?

Not an actual fire, but every time a transistor blows (along with the 2 associated resistors), a puff of sticky smoke escapes and coats everything around it.

Marco even sells a replacement plastic high voltage shield, if the existing one won't clean up:

hv bally.jpghv bally.jpg

#15 9 years ago

I don't think the machine was in a fire as the rest of the boards and backbox look fine, as does the rest of the machine. Not sure if this was a "replacement" board though from something else. My guess is it was in storage for quite a while but it definitely looks like it's seen better days. Rust might be from the cold freeze/thaw we have here in MN. I thought about getting an Ultimate driver board too but since this one still seems to work I thought I'd try and restore it first.

#16 9 years ago

One of these days I'll get around to posting a thread on my Space Invaders project. It was definitely in a fire and all of the boards look like this.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Not an actual fire, but every time a transistor blows (along with the 2 associated resistors), a puff of sticky smoke escapes and coats everything around it.

In BE/E school we said it was the "magic" escaping the component. And once it's gone, there ain't no putting it back!

#18 9 years ago

yeah i have just been poking fun, i would also try restore boards first. Hell if the transistor is good, just use some CLR and save yourself $2.

1 week later
#19 9 years ago

I got new capacitors installed and did the ground mods to the driver board and put the new MPU in place and now it seems everything is working. I had to work through a few switches that needed some care but I think it's working again. I have a ton of lights out and the playfield is super dirty but after a nice tear down and cleaning I think it should be a good player again.

As I was playing it the first couple times it seemed like the bonus hole wasn't registering quickly but now after adjusting the switches and such it seems to be fine but I'm going to watch it and see. I didn't end up swapping out the rusty regulator yet but I might do that if things seem a bit wonky.

Thanks for all the help.

#20 9 years ago

Congrats on the fix!

#21 9 years ago

Figured out my flipper problem too burning out fuses. Turns out it's the right flipper that someone decided to remove the diodes. Apparently whoever played it before never trapped a ball.

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