(Topic ID: 121530)

Supersonic GI lights working insert lights out

By Kmolo

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

Working on a bally supersonic. The gi lights are working and game is functioning fine, but insert lights are out. Fuse is good. Where should I be looking as far as board components?

#2 9 years ago

Check the bridge rectifier on the rectifier board. Good test methods on this site and the 'net in general. Easy to test and those 8 amp rectifiers on early Bally SS games get worked hard.

Replace with a beefy 30 amp unit and you are good forever. Lots of writeups all over about how to as well.

Post some pics. I am restoring a SS as we speak...

-scott

#3 9 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing/page/2#post-2113931

Easy fix.

-

I just sold two Supersonics so I may have a few spare parts for sale from the restorations if you guys need anything.

#4 9 years ago

Check your rectifier board connectors.

#5 9 years ago

A bunch of you guys emailed me for parts but did not include an email for me to send pics, or even what parts you were looking for.

I was going to do 3 Supersonic restorations, but the playfield on the 3rd (that was supposed to be "mint") was toast. I've given up waiting for the last playfield.

Over a 4 year period, I purchased all the best parts I could find at shows and from ops.

I looked and have:

1. Real nice backglass
2. Nice set of unbroken/undamaged plastics (just small amount of yellowing)
3. Excellent shooter gauge
4. Excellent apron
5. Playfield wiring harness (all there, no short cut off runs).

#6 9 years ago

Backglass first, since it's the item the most people wanted:

Click for very detailed photos.

There are 2 little matched touched up spots, looks great lit up (guy did good job color match). I like to really show even the slightest imperfections so there are no disappointments.

Someone asked if it was Triple Thicked - nope. I don't use TT unless the paint is peeling from the glass. No sense in using it just to use it. If the paint has stayed stuck for 40 years, it's not going anywhere, lol.

ss-full-unlit.jpgss-full-unlit.jpg
ss_full-lit.jpgss_full-lit.jpg
ss-backside.jpgss-backside.jpg
ss-detail1.jpgss-detail1.jpg
ss-detail2.jpgss-detail2.jpg
ss-detail3.jpgss-detail3.jpg

#7 9 years ago

Josh & mike, tony:

ss-apron-front.jpgss-apron-front.jpg ss-apron-left.jpgss-apron-left.jpg ss-apron-right.jpgss-apron-right.jpg
#8 9 years ago

Harness and shooter gauge sold (pending payments).

I also have 2 brand new painted Supersonic cabs. These are reproduction cabs, with all new graphics, and 1/4" plywood bottoms. Cabs only, no hardware, legs or coin doors.

#9 9 years ago

Looks like one cab is spoken for.

Thank you!

#10 9 years ago

Backglass is spoken for.

Thanks Al!

#11 9 years ago

Everything is sold.

I may find some more stuff, but I believe that wraps up the Supersonic surplus.

Thanks.

3 weeks later
#12 9 years ago

Replaced the bridge and that fixed the lighting issue. Right flipper is not working. Coil seems fine not stuck. What is the transistor associated with right flipper?

#13 9 years ago

Both flippers are enabled through a single transistor that fires the flipper enable relay. I think it's q13 but don't quote me. If one flipper works then more than likely the issue is between a flipper switch and the coil. Check wiring and continuity between coil and flipper switch. Check resistance of coil itself to check for dead short. Also, clean and check EOS switch beside coil. If this is dirty then high power side of flip coil won't work.

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