(Topic ID: 303840)

Superman dip switch issue

By CypherPinball

73 days ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 72 days ago by Kent_Diego
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 73 days ago

I just picked up a Superman earlier this week. And I'm having trouble getting the dip switches changes to take effect. The table is set on 5 ball, and I'd like to change to 3 ball, as well as award extra balls instead of points. That should be simple right? However, the dip switches don't seem to be doing anything. Luckily the table is on free play. But, any assistance with what I could do would be appreciated. I attached a couple of images of the dip switches. My first question is is the switch pushed in considered selected (on/off) or when the switch is out considered selected? I figured I could use the free play dip as a guide, but in my troubleshooting I've tested both for all of these settings, and nothing changes for any of these settings. I probably shouldn't mess with the free play, as I'd be screwed if the table was stuck in non-free play. I'm a little stumped on what the issue could be. Weirdly enough a couple of nights ago I was messing around with the dip switches, went to bed about 3am, and it was still on 5 ball. Went to bed and didn't turn the machine on until about 5pm yesterday, and it was on 3 ball. I was excited, but i wanted the match feature (dumb I know since it's on free play, but we have match turned on for all of our newer sterns also), and when switching the match play, it reverted back to 5 ball and points awarded instead of extra ball. Any thoughts?

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#2 73 days ago

If you look at the diagram, "on" is up, pushed in above the numbers on the DIP switch. Keep in mind the changes take effect only after the game power is cycled. The software only reads the DIP settings at power on.

Also, if you are still having trouble you can use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the switches. It looks like there might be some corrosion present. DIP switches can and do fail, especially on older games or those exposed to excessive moisture/humidity.

#3 73 days ago

Thanks, so pushed in is the option selected? So if "off" (bottom) is pushed in then the "off is selected?

I will double check all my settings, but I think that I still have an issue, as I've definitely tried both options and the game is still in 5 ball.

What are options to do if dip switches have failed? But, it seems like it may be all 4 sets, since it doesn't seem like the dip switches have changed anything. In screwing around, I've pushed in/pushed out dip switches on all 4 of the primary switches.

#4 73 days ago

Manual calls out some multiplexers used to read dips (makes sense since you don't want to dedicate 32 i/o lines to it for something that's read once) - so they'd likely be bad, or the pullups on them are bad (low voltage maybe?)

It could also be all 4 dip banks, dip switches of that era aren't great and they are 40+ years old. Some people have used contact cleaner in them, but if you can solder just replace all 4 banks. You can put sockets in and put dips in sockets but that's overkill.

I was out of dips once and I put sockets in and used jumpers in place of the dips.... I wonder what happened to that board? probably in one of my machines I never open.

#5 73 days ago

Also, if you are still having trouble you can use a DMM or ohmmeter to check the switches.

I'm not electronic repair savvy, I do have a voltmeter. How exactly would I go about checking this?

I might try out the contact cleaner and see if that helps at all. Looks like home depot sells wd-40 contact cleaner. Would this be safe to use?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-Quick-Drying-Electric-Equipment-Cleaner-with-Smart-Straw-300554/307599950?ITC=AUC-59692-23-12140#overlay

#6 73 days ago
Quoted from CypherPinball:

I might try out the contact cleaner and see if that helps at all. Looks like home depot sells wd-40 contact cleaner. Would this be safe to use?

To do it right you have to disassemble the switch (the contacts are all inside, little bits of metal). Might be best to have a pro look at it, there's no replacement atari boards so you don't want to mess them up. Some dips aren't able to be disassembled at all or you have to remove them anyway, so you might as well just replace.

#7 73 days ago

That board looks as if it has some corrosion spots. Could be the dip switches, could be resistors on that switched line. If it is currently in a playable state, and you are not 100 percent confident in your solder abilities, I would find a pro/send this out to be fixed. You could take a part that has no new stock, and damage it worse than it currently is at having 5 balls vs 3

#8 73 days ago

Great points regarding potentially damaging something. And right now it's fully playable, just not tweaked exactly how I'd like it. But, I wouldn't want to damage anything. Any recommendations/contact info for board repair options?

#9 73 days ago

Clive at Coin Op Cauldron. He is a member here, but last I heard is booked out a few months.

If you search the recent threads for Clive at Coin Op Cauldron, there is a list of members in there that repair PCBs.

#11 73 days ago

Thanks, I'm not in a big hurry, so a 10-12 week backup isn't a deal breaker for me. I will get in touch with Clive. Thanks. In the meantime, is there any other recommendations regarding troubleshooting on my end?

#12 72 days ago

I had the same problem. The setting for match would not work. I checked all the components and verified voltages for all switches. Then I disconnected RAM battery clearing settings and the match started working. Later I found another setting the did not work and pressing reset clear button in test mode seemed to fix that. Very odd.

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