(Topic ID: 208678)

Super Chexx Pro Owners Club

By paynemic

6 years ago


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    Post #681 Code file structure Posted by rick6668 (2 years ago)

    Post #682 Code & wav sound file structure Posted by rick6668 (2 years ago)

    Post #683 File modification & backup instructions Posted by rick6668 (2 years ago)


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    #5 6 years ago

    Subscribed.
    superchexx06 (resized).jpgsuperchexx06 (resized).jpg

    #7 6 years ago

    The theme for my game room is silver and red, so I try to match every fixture with some form of red.

    The floor is "polyaspartic" sort of like epoxy, but a bit more flexible. We added about 70 lbs. of aluminum flake powder to the resin, and trowled it on the floor for that finish. 2900 sq. ft. of game room there.

    #13 6 years ago

    The base is in a box that measures 35 x 37 x 37. It won't fit in a standard inside doorway, and will just make it into a house entry door - if you remove the door from the hinges. Big box! The smaller box will make it thru without issue.

    I have a specially made door for my game room that's 44 in. wide and about 7 ft. tall, so everything fits. This one was close though.

    #17 6 years ago

    I had the same issue with mine. There's supposed to be a male spade "wing" terminal attached to the power supply with a screw. They must be missing the mark when they produce the machines. I contacted the distributor about it.

    DO NOT put it together without grounding that wire. What I did: Add a short pigtail on the ground terminal of the power supply and install a shrouded male spade terminal on the end. Plug that into that female ground spade, and assemble. You're protected.

    #19 6 years ago

    I agree, but you're losing valuable play time waiting. You can't finish the assembly until the wire is grounded. And it could take weeks for them to get it to you.

    #22 6 years ago

    I used some parts I had in my shop, closed it up and didn't think to take a picture. You need a fork terminal 18/16 ga (pink) for a No. 6 screw, a male spade terminal 18/16 ga. and a short piece of 18 or 16 gage wire, 2 or 3 inches long.

    As a temporary fix, you can use an alligator clip test wire if you have one. Clip the terminal with one end and clip the other end to the power supply box...that will get you going while you're waiting for the parts.

    1 week later
    #47 6 years ago

    I would allow no less than 9 ft. by 5 ft.

    Eight feet would make it too tight to play with the rods fully extended.

    5 months later
    #103 5 years ago

    I have one in my game room, and it's probably the biggest hit. Second in line is the Namco Pac Man 4 player machine. Both of these are constantly being played during every party.

    3 weeks later
    #136 5 years ago
    Quoted from EBDixson:

    Does anyone have any DIY or retail cupholder solution for the Pro that they use?

    I use the common pinball cup holders on everything they will fit into. My pinball lineup used one on each machine. I have one on each side of my Chexx.

    There's a catch though; you need to drill and tap 3 holes (8-32) to mount the holders. Once you do, they're nice and permanent.
    cup-holder (resized).jpgcup-holder (resized).jpg

    superchexx-cup-holder (resized).jpgsuperchexx-cup-holder (resized).jpg

    pins-cup-holders (resized).jpgpins-cup-holders (resized).jpg

    #142 5 years ago
    Quoted from Raegor:

    Are those pingulps with the L bracket removed?

    No, they're the Suzo Happ part with no bracket. I buy them 10 at a time, great price when you buy bulk:

    https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/27-1422-00
    EDIT: You can get the optional high grip double faced tape for it, then you won't need to drill and tap holes.

    #145 5 years ago

    I would say, don't drill holes unless you know what you're doing. Drilling and tapping is best left to those who have experience in that.

    Personally, I prefer something permanent. But. If suction cups work, go for it.

    #147 5 years ago

    After having beer or soda accidentally kicked over on the floor several times or knocked off the playfield glass, I went the cup holder route. Never look back.

    3 weeks later
    #168 5 years ago

    I concur - the hockey game is always first in play. Second is the PacMan 4 player. Finally, the pins....

    #170 5 years ago
    Quoted from bemmett:

    Someone in CO sell me one please!

    Hey. They deliver ya know.

    4 months later
    #291 5 years ago

    Being OCD about the stuff in my game room, I noticed when kids play, after they lose a goal, they tend to smack the dome in frustration. So. I put these 2 inch labels inside, a warning not to touch the dome. 3 sides, 3 stickers.

    So far, so good.

    dome-label (resized).jpgdome-label (resized).jpg

    #293 5 years ago

    Polycarbonate is very difficult to crack. Blunt force won't hurt it, but scratches easily. Your fingernail will leave a permanent mark if you're not careful.

    1 year later
    #488 3 years ago

    If you keep it plugged in and powered down, you'll hear a buzz in the speaker. The audio amp is powered continuously, causing a hum.

    1 year later
    #754 2 years ago

    Well, I bit, just had to have it. The cool factor is at the top.

    Ice floor installed, looks fantastic. Made of bomb-proof polycarbonate and fits nicely.

    hockey-floor3 (resized).jpghockey-floor3 (resized).jpg

    #756 2 years ago
    Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

    Looks awesome! I’d like to hear periodic updates from you on how it goes playing on the floor mat. Enjoy! Don’t forget the lemon pledge on the game playing surface!

    I'll probably use automotive wax. Today is the shiniest and smoothest the glossy surface is ever going to be. You can take a sledge hammer to Lexan, but it does scratch. We will see....

    #759 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRB1959:

    I like your game room floor. Is it polished concrete of some type? It looks really nice.
    Gord

    Polyaspartic (similar to epoxy) with a fill of aluminum flakes - 26 lbs. Started out with a diamond grind and then a black "binder". The polyaspartic is 2 parts, aluminum added, and then trowled on to produce the 3D effect. More durable than epoxy and hardens within 24 hours.

    #764 2 years ago

    Floor is smooth and shiny, nice feel. It's made of Lexan so it can take abuse.

    Shipping was free with the price. A bit pricey, but I like the look and feel.

    #768 2 years ago

    You can take a hammer to polycarbonate and not crack it. That's pretty rugged in my book.

    Price tag, oh well, I look at it as full customization on a great product. Cost not an issue AFAIAC.

    Won't know how that game stays put until I put it into use. Haven't planned that one yet, but soon. I have felt feet on the game, and will probably remove those now that it's on its own mat.

    1 month later
    #801 2 years ago

    Arena Rink floor in place. Makes for a well-rounded package.

    floor-under-pro (resized).jpgfloor-under-pro (resized).jpg

    #803 2 years ago

    The game will slide a bit, but it's because I used felt pads on the corners. Won't scratch the floor with felt. Aside from that, the floor itself stays put and really doesn't move after it's been through the usual crowd.

    Definitely adds to the overall appearance.

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