(Topic ID: 281206)

Supercharger not acting very super... need some help!


By AlexRogan84

76 days ago



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  • 14 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 54 days ago by AlexRogan84
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pasted_image	Pins 1-2	Pins 2-3 Q1	0.602	0.492 Q2	0.549	0.443 Q3	0.442	0.503 Q4	0.603	0.500 Q5	0.553	0.444 Q6	0.443	0.506 Q7	0.601	0.479 Q8	0.549	0.129 Q9	0.129	0.000 (resized).png
Accelerator board testing (resized).JPG

#1 76 days ago

Ok, so I got my Getaway just a few days ago. Love the game. Always have since playing it as a teenager. The Supercharger was working while I've had it. Definitely kept the balls going at speed, completing the 10 loops to get the jackpot in multiball. It isn't now though. I've done some troubleshooting and wanted to share what I've done and see what you think is next.

I got some good direction from Mr. Tantrum. We chatted about a 3D part for the shifter and then I asked about the Supercharger problems. Among other suggestions, he gave me this link to a previous Supercharger problem thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-supercharger-problem-please-help#post-4285449

The initial description is pretty much what mine is doing. Upon turning the game on, it tells me those same switches (optos 1, 2 and 3 plus the two ramp optos) are either stuck open or in error (says to check them). I also found my fuse F103 blown. I didn't realize at first it was blown and put another fuse in (3A SB) and I actually saw it glow and blow right in front of my eyes as I happened to keep the backbox door open when I turned the game on.

So, something shorting from what I've read. Here is the current status of things I've checked:

Switch edge test for all five optos on the ramp and Supercharger is fine. I can interfere with the beam using the tip of a pen and it goes from closed to open.

I have disconnected each of the magnets and tested each of them for continuity by putting my two leads on the multimeter into the magnet side of the plug and each is ok.

No obvious shorted or loose or disconnected wires up on the Supercharger with the magnets or optos or lights.

Underneath the playfield, I have looked extensively at the accelerator board. Nothing appears melted or charred or loose or disconnected.

I removed it completely and tested each magnet's transistors (Q1 to Q9). My results are in this screen grab. I tested it from the bottom side of the board and used the 1-2-3 notation like in the image. Grumpy's suggestion in that other thread said to test 2-3, which I did, but also checked the others too. Mixed results that I don't completely understand. I think this is where my problem is?

I put the board back in place and checked for a short on the J6 connector as Grumpy suggested. There is no short on any of the pins when testing the connector end. I wasn't sure if you also meant to check the pins on the board itself to ground? I didn't check this, only the disconnected connector and it was 0L for all six.

I have the game back together with the exception of the magnet connections. I have those disconnected. When I power up the game, fuse F103 does not blow. The magnets aren't doing anything of course, which means the game isn't playable either.

I believe I need to get those nine Q transistors replaced, is that correct from what you've read here? Thanks!!!

Accelerator board testing (resized).JPG
#2 76 days ago

Is it falling short of making a loop or just acting sluggish?

Before going after transistors I'd look at the opto transmitters. Likely they will need or should be replaced. Are they yellowed from age? I replaced mine and got a lot more speed out of the SC.

#3 76 days ago
Quoted from EJS:

Is it falling short of making a loop or just acting sluggish?
Before going after transistors I'd look at the opto transmitters. Likely they will need or should be replaced. Are they yellowed from age? I replaced mine and got a lot more speed out of the SC.

The magnets aren't doing anything. The fuse blows at F103 if they are connected.

I did clean each of the three pairs of optos with rubbing alcohol on the end of a Q-Tip (carefully). The previous owner had an issue with the Supercharger before I got it, but I didn't get an exact description of what it was or wasn't doing. It didn't work 1 out of 5 times which I would assume means the magnets won't whip it around and the ball just falls out or back down the ramp. He cleaned it before I picked it up and said it was working fine again. And it was when I got it and got it home. But within a day or two, it stopped working and that's when I noticed the fuse was blown. If it is the transistors on the accelerator board, I don't know what it might have been that I did to cause that. I opened the playfield a few times looking stuff over and I suppose I could have bumped it a little bit. Maybe just a coincidence that it died, maybe after the moving and tipping up on its back for the journey. Not sure really.

I see you can buy new accelerator boards for $70 USD. Or these transistors are about a buck each, assuming you know how to put them in without wrecking anything else. Just sucks that I can't play it only like two days after getting it.

#4 76 days ago

Your chart isn't making a lot of sense to me. Did you test the transistors in diode mode on your meter? You should be getting readings in millivolts or slightly over one volt. Not ohms.

That said, the Q9 readings, .003 ohms, may indicate it's shorted. That would blow the fuse every time.

#5 76 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Your chart isn't making a lot of sense to me. Did you test the transistors in diode mode on your meter? You should be getting readings in millivolts or slightly over one volt. Not ohms.
That said, the Q9 readings, .003 ohms, may indicate it's shorted. That would blow the fuse every time.

I tested it in Ohms mode, not diode. My mistake. I had thought we were only testing for continuity. I can go back and redo that fairly easily.

The chart is supposed to be all nine transistors down the left plus the extra three D ones (D7, D9, D11). Each column was the different combinations of pins tested. 1 and 2. 2 and 3. 1 and 3. I added the second chunk of the chart to the right only to put everything in the same units as my multimeter was auto ranging. So I MegaOhm = 1,000,000 Ohms, 1 KiloOhm = 1,000 Ohms, etc.

#6 76 days ago

Check out Clay's guide on how to test transistors below. Essentially, you're looking for inconsistencies between transistors that are the same. Meaning Tip36's should all test similar, Tip102's should all test similar and 4401's should be similar. I would start with the Tip36's as Q9 looks to be shorted. The good news is that Tip36's are easy to change because they're bigger.

If you find a bad transistor, then you need to check the other components in that circuit. For now, just test the transistors.

http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/#howdmm

#7 75 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Check out Clay's guide on how to test transistors below. Essentially, you're looking for inconsistencies between transistors that are the same. Meaning Tip36's should all test similar, Tip102's should all test similar and 4401's should be similar. I would start with the Tip36's as Q9 looks to be shorted. The good news is that Tip36's are easy to change because they're bigger.
If you find a bad transistor, then you need to check the other components in that circuit. For now, just test the transistors.
http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/#howdmm

Great guide there, thanks. That explanation on testing the diodes and transistors really helped.

Here are the values tested properly in diode mode:

Q9 is definitely not like the others. Q8 looks to be bad also. Both likely needing replacement?

You mentioned testing other components in that circuit, how would I do that? I have a PDF copy of the Getaway manual, but not the exploded circuit diagrams like I do for a couple of other pinball machines. If these transistors blew because of some other issue, you're right that we'd better track it down. Q8 and Q9 are both tied to magnet #1 or magnet#3?

pasted_image Pins 1-2 Pins 2-3 Q1 0.602 0.492 Q2 0.549 0.443 Q3 0.442 0.503 Q4 0.603 0.500 Q5 0.553 0.444 Q6 0.443 0.506 Q7 0.601 0.479 Q8 0.549 0.129 Q9 0.129 0.000 (resized).png
#8 75 days ago

Replace Q8 and Q9, then test the other diodes and resistors in that circuit and compare the reading to one of the other two magnet circuits on the board. Manual has accelerator board schematics. Component numbers are hard to read, but they should test similar the the same components in the other two circuits.

You also need to check the magnets. Don't recall how to exactly how to test those particular magnets, but what your looking for is a short or very low resistance on one compared to the others.

#9 74 days ago

I ordered a brand new accelerator board. Should be here in about a week. I still plan on getting my old board repaired and will check the other transistors on it like mentioned (i.e. comparing similar components in each of the three magnet circuits).

I don't know of any unique way to test the magnets either. With no power to the game and my accelerator board removed, I tested each magnet for continuity and they all tested ok. I did this the same way we test other, regular coils by just seeing if there is a constant circuit from one lead to the other in the quick connect plug.

Are there other ways I should be testing those magnets?

When the board comes in, I'll install it, put a replacement fuse in the F103 position on the main board in the backbox and start-up the game. Any other recommendations for things I should be doing other than that or beforehand?

#10 74 days ago

Actually, I just saw this video and he checks the magnets at the beginning.

He is checking for resistance (Ohms), the same way I had thought I was doing, but he said he is looking for at least 4-5 Ohms. I'll have to go back and test mine again as I don't think this is what I was looking for. Is this the right way to check the magnets?

#11 73 days ago

Yes, that is the correct method. You're hoping to see what he got. 4.5 ohms - 6 ohms. Less than 4 ohms would suggest a magnet has a problem. Whichever magnet is turned on by Q9 is going to be your likely suspect.

*Make sure you reconnect the magnets in the correct order when finished.*

#12 73 days ago

I checked each magnet earlier today and consistently got 3.2 for magnets 1 and 3 and 3.1 for the middle one.

Good? Bad? Irrelevant?

#13 73 days ago

Those sound low. Try another meter or check in the club thread to see if anyone has posted what reading they got off those magnets.

2 weeks later
#14 54 days ago

Wanted to update this thread with resolution. Game is back working top notch. I bought a brand new accelerator board from Pinball Wizards in Utah. Installed it and good to go. Supercharger is back to being super again. Been getting the high scores to prove it too. Man I love this game. Figured she deserved to be pampered a little so bought four brand new legs, levellers and rubber feet from the Playdium Store in Toronto... rebuilt all three flippers and put the proper blue label coil on the lower right flipper as it had a red label one when I got it. Got a ridonkulous LED bulb order coming in the mail this week too to get everything looking super fine. Giddyup.

And with my owner's learning now knowing what the dot after the free play means... checked the error code and it's my low shift on the shifter handle. Turns out I never down shift!!! haha.

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