(Topic ID: 71487)
Linked Games
Sweet Hearts
Gottlieb, 1963
Topic Gallery
Overland Park, KS
many people are surprised that with a little work and a few parts a machine that they thought was not worth fixing comes out nice.
I have saved quite a few bound for the dump. they are in someones collection right now. the might not be collector machines but they are good player machines if not better.
some titles are not worth much in good shape so i don't throw to much cash into them but as you guys know a complete EM doesn't take much cash to get running 100%
after you are done the sweethearts will be a good player machine and that is better than parting it out any day in my book.
look forward to pics when it completed
Quoted from boilerman:many people are surprised that with a little work and a few parts a machine that they thought was not worth fixing comes out nice.
Words to live by, also a great way to own games when you can't afford them.
I know guys who will rebuild Pop Bumpers but not replace the Yellowed bodies that are just ready to crack any year. I just don't understand why someone would go through all the trouble of tearing apart Pop Bumpers are not replace it with all new parts which are cheap unless you are selling it. 
Ken
I see both sides. It always feels good to have fresh new parts installed. But then I sort of like the warm look of the aged original parts. They look more appropriate than the stark white against an aged original playfield. It would be nice if PBR could have mellowed them slightly, then it would be the best of both worlds.
On the other side of the coin I have a friend with a beautiful Kings & Queens and El Dorado. Both have Wade Krause playfields installed. There is absolutely no patina to speak of and the glowing brightness of new parts looks absolutely appropriate and correct.
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:I know guys who will rebuild Pop Bumpers but not replace the Yellowed bodies that are just ready to crack any year. I just don't understand why someone would go through all the trouble of tearing apart Pop Bumpers are not replace it with all new parts which are cheap unless you are selling it.
Ken
Because the new ones aren't quite the same as the old ones (in shape), and they just look too new with the rest of surrounding parts (like Grandma with new sneakers). Unless it's a new playfield and ALL the other parts are new (with a full repaint, etc), it throws the overall appearance of the game out of whack. It becomes less of an issue once you get into the 70's era games, where the available bumper bodies match better, but on the 60's and older games, they just aren't a good match. Functional, yes, but very conspicuous. And there aren't repros available for the 'dead' bumper bodies, so putting in new pops and leaving the old dead bumpers looks even more conspicuous.
So for those of use who obsess over originality, it's all about keeping that original appearance (and the parts) accurate. Some of us (ahem) will even favor (and value) the older plastic that has the marbleized appearance vs. the shiny new stuff, even tolerating some nicks here and there, to keep that overall appearance intact, balanced, and faithful. 
But, when the old parts aren't available, or are broken, then functionality wins. Or, if it's just going to be a 'player' game, sure (but then why spend the money). With plastic parts though, it's pretty much all or nothing, since the new ones just don't look like the old ones.
Quoted from DirtFlipper:But, when the old parts aren't available, or are broken, then functionality wins. Or, if it's just going to be a 'player' game, sure (but then why spend the money). With plastic parts though, it's pretty much all or nothing, since the new ones just don't look like the old ones.
Thanks for explaining your side of the equation DirtFlipper. All my games have been 1971 and up so now I understand with the older games (50's - 60's) now that you have explained that it is the problem of availability of original looking parts that hinders replacement. Thank You. 
Ken
Quoted from DirtFlipper:Should see how it looks after a dip in Zep followed by some Mother's Mag&Alum polish...
Ahem....
Cool discussion. I actually don't like the bright white pop bodies, but the old ones were either cracked or the cap screw holes were blown out and replacing only a couple would have looked even worse. It does look out of place against the stripped and worn playfield, but I think it will get better as the whole thing comes back together.
Quoted from jrpinball:Ahem....
Didn't say one had to leave the parts dirty and greasy... (although I would say that the Zep/Mother's treatment is overkill for most needs, but it does make them super shiny).
Sometimes the parts that are in the worst shape (i.e., dirtiest, dingiest) get the most attention though too (like a full dip/polish). And then of course once you do one part and it looks like that, then it makes the rest look bad, and then it's off to the races.
But even original parts deserve to be 'clean' original parts.
Quoted from boilerman:blinding WHITE......
I did a "Bowling Queen" recently and was also turned off by the blinding white repro pop bodies. What I did was, I soaked them in a strong tea solution for about two weeks. When I pulled them out and rinsed them off, they had a perfect yellowed aged look. Once the bumpers were assembled though, I realized that you really don't see much of the bodies anyway.
Quoted from Pafasa:Cool discussion. I actually don't like the bright white pop bodies, but the old ones were either cracked or the cap screw holes were blown out and replacing only a couple would have looked even worse. It does look out of place against the stripped and worn playfield, but I think it will get better as the whole thing comes back together.
Once the caps are back on, and with new rings and everything else, it'll be fine (and play great). This type of detail is reserved for keeper games for collector's with OCD. 
i agree if broken what choice do you have? and to mix new with old is even worse, so you did what was required. As noted once put back together they look fine.
It has been so F'en cold here i have not had a chance to put my sweet hearts back together.
The PF is done, bottom board rebuilt, all cabinet hardware was cleaned and polished and ready to go, then it got cold.
Quoted from DirtFlipper:Sometimes the parts that are in the worst shape (i.e., dirtiest, dingiest) get the most attention though too (like a full dip/polish). And then of course once you do one part and it looks like that, then it makes the rest look bad, and then it's off to the races.
Oh many times have i been down that rabbit hole
Quoted from boilerman:i agree if broken what choice do you have? and to mix new with old is even worse, so you did what was required. As noted once put back together they look fine.
It has been so F'en cold here i have not had a chance to put my sweet hearts back together.
The PF is done, bottom board rebuilt, all cabinet hardware was cleaned and polished and ready to go, then it got cold.
Snow is a comin` 
looks good
i hate when a pin needs new caps the colors are not always the same so you have to replace them all at the same time, and those 60's caps are $$$$ vs the 70's
almost as bad as new drop targets. cost me 80.00 to re drop my 2001 ouch!
4 weeks later
Well......The holidays were fun but there was no time for any pin repairs. I got back after it last night and started reassembling the playfield. I have the wood playfield rails cleaned and mounted and have cleaned and installed the upper arch. Hopefully more to come soon. I may need some help with rubber ring locations. I am not sure I took enough pics.
Here is the before and after of the chrome arch.
IMG_3697.JPG
IMG_3698.JPG
You don't need to do that. My fees are ridiculous!!
I cleaned the arch with Simple Green and a microfiber cloth.
Then, I used Blue Magic metal polish. Just wipe on a thin layer and let it sit for a while. Then rub it off with a microfiber rag until it is nice and shiny. About 5 minutes of actual labor went into this arch.
You can find Blue Magic about anywhere. I get mine at a local Autozone.
Quoted from Pafasa:Hopefully more to come soon. I may need some help with rubber ring locations. I am not sure I took enough pics.
Here is the before and after of the chrome arch.IMG_3697.JPG 186 KB
IMG_3698.JPG 161 KB
let me know i have them
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:Time for Blue Magic then. I have already Simple greened a few. Abra-Ca-Dabra and some slight elbow grease on Slick Chick's metal apron but ACD will need some of that Blue Magic and I will use it on Card Whiz's coin door.
Hey Rat-
I wouldn't use Blue Magic on stainless steel. I use it all the time on chrome it's great! Stainless seems to have less great results. Don't know the chemistry, but wouldn't recommend it. Just my two cents.
Quoted from stashyboy:Hey Rat-
I wouldn't use Blue Magic on stainless steel. I use it all the time on chrome it's great! Stainless seems to have less great results. Don't know the chemistry, but wouldn't recommend it. Just my two cents.
Thanks for the tip. Lock bar and side rails don't respond well to blue magic? What do you use on those parts then?
Quoted from Pafasa:Thanks for the tip. Lock bar and side rails don't respond well to blue magic? What do you use on those parts then?
I've mentioned this in other threads, but I re-grain all stainless. Takes several hours and rails are removed from the game. (yes, a pain, but great results)
Oh how I wish! I would then have to clone my wife because the original wife would leave me. Maybe the clone would like pinball and we could live in the Catskills somewhere with a big concrete floored and heated / AC outdoor pinball building that can hold one of every Gottlieb single player (some multi player 70's) wedge heads from 1947-1979. Damn....then I woke up and got on here to post about this fantasy. Now to fall back to sleep and hope for heavy r.e.m. sleep.
Quoted from boilerman:What I do is buy the Krylon webbing paint and spray about an ounce or two into a detailed sprayer
http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-up-air-spray-gun-66871.html
Then I pour about a thimble full or a little more of lacquer thinner into the sprayer and mix it slightly.I then spray it around 60 psi with the nozzle on the sprayer wide open.It takes a little playing around to get it right so it's best to test spray it on some cardboard or scrap wood.Once you get it just right it should only take about 2-3 minutes at most to spray everything.I usually do it in short bursts about 6-8 inches from what ever I'm spraying
This is a really important post Boilerman because I find getting webbing right is not easy largely because the Gottlieb webbing is so subtle. It seems you almost need to look for it whereas the Krylon webbing out of the can is just too imposing. When you use the touch up air gun does it still 'throw' the webbing as it does out of the can and can you share any other 'trade secrets' on this most difficult skill.
Quoted from wayner:This is a really important post Boilerman because I find getting webbing right is not easy largely because the Gottlieb webbing is so subtle. It seems you almost need to look for it whereas the Krylon webbing out of the can is just too imposing. When you use the touch up air gun does it still 'throw' the webbing as it does out of the can and can you share any other 'trade secrets' on this most difficult skill.
the info i posted is all you really need to know, other than practice
Quoted from boilerman:the info i posted is all you really need to know, other than practice
Also thanks from me. I have not done any EM cabinet repaints because of the webbing/splatter. Maybe this summer I will get the chance to start "practicing"!
Quoted from jodini:I had decent luck with this Krylon product. Not the perfect match but it was close.
PB091314.JPG 142 KB
PB101319.JPG 233 KB
That does look pretty good! What Krylon product?
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