I grabbed a Super Orbit tonight and have a few questions.

It has the two orange caps in the cabinet and I'm wondering if someone could link me to what I need to replace it and maybe a tutorial on how to replace them. It appears as though I can replace both with one, but I'm not sure how it would get wired up and what I need to order.

I think I also need the edge connectors and a crimper. Can anyone link me to which connectors and crimper I should buy? It looks like they are 0.156", but other than that, I'm lost. They sell different wire gauge, bifurcated, tin plated brass, tin plated phosphor bronze, etc. I'm lost.

The boards appear to be hacked up. I was able to get it to start a game after reseating all the connectors.

The scoring is pretty wild too. It goes backwards sometimes.

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It’s also missing fuse F7. Does anyone know what the rating on that fuse is supposed to be?

Wow, tough crowd. Maybe I should have named this the "Imamaculate Super Orbit Thread".

I guess I should buy one of those all in one boards since both the CPU and Power Supply board appear hacked? It's probably the same price than to replace everything.

It looks like I need the PI-80 board from Flippp! and that it replaces the power supply (A2), the CPU (A1) and the driver board (A3). Mine appears to have an additional board above the CPU that looks wired into the chip at the top and has a jumper wire to one of the pins on A1-J3. Does anyone know what that board is or how it fits into the PI-80 equation?

I haven't measured anything yet. I only had enough time to re-seat the connectors.

It seemed to work, except for the jets with the missing boards, but the scoring was all screwed up. It would jump all over the place and then start going backwards.

Any idea what that little board is above the CPU and why it's tied into the CPU? I can't find that in any pictures of other machines.

Do I replace both caps with the 12,000 uf cap or does that just replace one of the two?

I'm also trying to nail down what fuse goes in F7 if anyone knows?

Here is what it does when scoring:

Holy crap. That flew way over my head. Thank you so much for your help.

You’re 100% correct with the scoring. I didn’t even pick up on that part.

Does it mean anything that player 1 and 2 are having the problem but 3 and 4 are fine? When I start a game, player 1 and 2 have 11 points where at 3 and 4 both show the normal 00.

During attract the displays don’t change even when the “High score to date” light flashes. Player 1 and 2 show 1,111,111 and player 3 and 4 show 0,000,000

Is it because of that jumper wire from one chip to another chip? I’m circuit board stupid, but you did say right side of the CPU board and that’s where the wire ends up.

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I was able to get player 3 plugged into 1 and player 4 plugged into 2. The 00 followed the connector. So the displays that previously showed 11, showed 00 after swapping connectors. The wires weren't long enough to plug player 1 into 3 or player 2 into 4.

But it appears that the displays aren't the issue.

It doesn't look like I can swap them. Z20 doesn't appear to be socketed, only Z18, Z19 & Z21.

Is this correct?

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Gotcha. I have a lot to learn!! Thanks so much for your help.

Then would this be correct?

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Do you know anything about how the pop bumpers are supposed to be wired? One works just fine and the other two are missing their boards. I've ordered replacement boards, but I found a few wires that are just hanging there no connected to anything. It appears that they get connected to a switch on the middle pop bumper.

I don't want to just go connecting stuff haphazardly.

Me looking through the service manual is like a cave man trying to figure out an iPhone.

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I can pull the board when I get home. I'll also test the chips when I get home as well. Can I test them with the board out of the machine?

I was given a manual entitled "Gottlieb Star Series 80". Is that the one I need? I don't see anything about the switches under the playfield in there, just board stuff and schematics.

Thanks. I just got off the phone with Steve and placed an order for a bunch of stuff, including the game manual. He's a really nice guy and definitely knows his shit.

I'm back.

Z16 pin 8 to Z18 pin 4 - Continuity

Z18 pin 3 to Z19 pin 7 - Continuity

I noticed that when they put the jumper wire in, they must have pulled the chips, bent up the legs they wanted and soldered directly to the leg on the chip. I guess that's normal when you jumping something like that?

Here are pictures of the back of the board. I took close ups of where it looked odd to me, which happens to be right behind where the chips are that control the displays. I can upload whatever other pictures you need. I'm going to leave the board out for now.

Should I just grab either a new board, or buy a Pascal board?

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I swapped Z19 with Z21 and the problem disappeared. All 4 displays are just fine and the game appears to score correctly now. Do we assume maybe a chip wasn't seated right or it wasn't making connection with the socket?

They were easy to remove, so I can replace them if you think that's the right move?

I found the card in a bag in the cabinet and you are correct, it's a 10A fuse for the back board lighting.

I think that is just the way the iPhone sensor sees the displays. They appear consistent to me.

While I was putting the board back in, I found another issue. There appears to be stray voltage going through the metal rails, coin door and lockdown bar.

The game is in the garage for now, I was a little sweaty and have a cut on my finger. I touched the side rail and felt a shock. I haven't dug into it yet, but I suspect the first place to start is with the power cord?

How did you know I was in my bare feet (seriously, I was)?

There is no ground prong on my plug. I found Vid's guide on replacing line cords, but I'm not sure which is which on the "Load Interference Filter".

How do I find out which is which? I was going to replace it with this server power cord I have that I removed the female end from.

It looks like the middle might be the ground since it's green, but neither of the others have colors.

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Got it! At least I think I did.

I wired it up the same way it was, but now that I’ve had time to digest your post, it appears as though it was backwards when I took it off.

Here is how it was:

Top - Neutral
Middle - Ground
Bottom - Line

I did the new plug like this:

Top - Blue
Middle - Green
Bottom - Brown

If I follow the wires out of the filter, one goes to the back of a big transformer and the other goes to the little round single fuse at the front of the cabinet. It appears as though it goes in there, then out and to the power switch.

It looks like the Top goes to the fuse and the bottom goes to the transformer.

So that would mean that the top should be Brown and the Bottom would be Blue. Which would be backwards from the way it was wired.

I’m not getting shocked anymore though.

It looks like my display issues are back. I installed one of my pop bumper boards. Two of the pops work now, but as soon as I plugged in the pop bumper board, the displays went nuts.

Players 1 & 3 work, but are dim and 2 & 4 make no sense.

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Well that’s weird. Based on what you wrote above, I reseated (just for fun) Z24. There was no change.

I pulled A2J3, which looks fine, plugged it back in, turned it on and it’s fine now.

I got the schematic and was going to try and figure out where the missing wires go to the pop bumpers. The problem is that I don’t know how to read it.

Looks like this is for the pop bumper with he missing wires off the switch, but I’m not sure how to determine which wire goes where.

Once again, thanks so much for your help.

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I’ve been messing around with the last pop bumper that doesn’t work. It looks like the top switch is for triggering the pop and the bottom switch is for scoring.

I have two wires hanging that match the colors on the schematic. I tried attaching one to one leg of the switch and one to the other, but the pop still won’t work.

Even hitting the test button on the new board does nothing. The LED lights up on the board, but the pop doesn’t fire. The sheet for the board says the LED turning on indicates the presence of 5V.

Looks like I missed the obvious. There is a fuse under the play field for each pop bumper. The one that’s there is blown. Someone over fused it with a 5A, so now I need to track down a 2A SB.

Anyone know which would be correct for fuse size, the card that was inside the game or the manual. They are different for some of the fuses.

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Who do I make the check out to? I’m game for whatever you recommend. I’m board dumb.

I’m guessing the power board and the CPU board. It needs a battery too. Someone hacked it off at some point. I think the jumper wire thing should probably go to.

Awesome. Thanks! I'm going to try and get this last pop bumper working and then ship them out.

I was able to get some 2A fuses for the center pop, but as soon as you start a game, the fuse blows. I'm just not sure where to start and I'm all out of fuses.

I think the top switch is the spoon switch which is open. The game was missing two of the driver boards, so the one for the center is brand new.

Does it matter which side the wires go on the spoon switch? There were two wires hanging in the cabinet and the colors matched the schematic I posed above for the switch. I wasn't sure which went on which side, so I just guessed.

Any suggestions on where to start? I have the schematics, but really don’t have a clue how to read them.

I started poking around (not really knowing what I’m doing) with a meter and the coils. I put it on ohms and touched one lead to one side of the coil and the other to the ther side.

The two that work read 3.3. The one that blows the fuse reads 0.3. Does that mean anything?

I also noticed that my double bonus LED is partially lit when the game is turned off.

Does that mean that I fried my new PBDB? The coil looks normal to me.

I clipped the diode off one side and retested. The coil reads the same as the others now, 3.2ohms.

Can I just get something like this? I'm not sure I'd ever need the others, but the only other way to get the 1N4004 is to buy 250 of them for the same price.

It says it includes the 1N4004 & 1N4007. I'm assuming that I'd just use either the 4004 or the 4007?

https://www.amazon.com/Switching-Rectifier-14-Electronic-Assortment/dp/B07BTY8FD2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa