Did you rebuild the flipper/replace the bushing so it's not still dragging?

There's the VID guide to playfield repair to check out...I think your only choices are to look at the wear spot or look at the repair spot since it will not looked "aged" after the repair. Maybe someone else has a successful example...I've got 1 EM with this same issue.

Frisket the area around the all the lower wood area. Cut the frisket so only the wood area is exposed. Sand it down removing the scratch. Using Shellac amber or clear re coat the wood. Protect with lacquer. Wax and it will look like new. Play your game and enjoy.

Steve J.

What specific lacquer gives you the best result?

I had a c37 with some wear in that area. not flipper drag but what I did would of worked on that also.
I used the back edge of a wood chisel and dragged it back against the old varnish to remove it in the wood are. once it was all removed I sanded the wood area. I then matched the old wooded area color the best I could. I doesn't need to be exact due to the fact that the surrounding area is screened so the two wood colors are not touching.
I used a wipe on poly but a amber shellac would also work. I might even be a close color match to boot

DSC_0335.jpg

phopf_2.jpg

Looks great

I use what gloss lacquer I have on hand usually. I get this type of product as a spray at a box store. Now if there is a better product I would be interested to try but the results so far from what I used was good. Boilerman's thread I think confirms this type of approach.

Good luck.

Can you spray 2 part automotive clear over Zinsser amber shellac or is there another way to duplicate the original wood look on these older playfields before clear coating? I have a Bally Hang Glider that I will be doing touch-ups on and spraying with a 2pac. There are area's like those posted above in the unpainted area's where the original finish is worn.

I have recently on my Nags playfield and platter, works a charm. Experiment with the different shades of Shellac, I did not color match so well on my platter but that my lesson learned.

I used this
minwax wipe on poly, satin finish

I used a clean rag, I taped off the edge, put down a few thin coats until I had it leveled with the old finish, wet sanded with 1500 grit to get the correct sheen. not really hard at all just time consuming.

Just to be clear, that would be the oil-based?