Sound's like you have a Swith Matrix Line out Problem.. Look in the Manuel for Yr TZ and see if these are in a Row.. Also if Anyone is Gonna Own a TZ ,, I recommend Ordering the VHS or CD filmed by Shaggy and Norm .. They Tear down a TZ and Put it back 2-gether ,, Leav-n NOTHING out.......... I do believe Marco Speciality's has them.. ( not Sure tho ) Shaggy gave me my Inspiration !!! I can Record from VHS to CD on my Burner for a Fee,, But that is Hmmm , Illegal Even tho my VHS has been Dubbed !!! LOL.. Hmmm !!!

......

Shaggy_and_Norm_TZ.jpg

Regarding the solenoids... do the ones for the kickers mentioned fire during a test?

I'd highly recommend watching the video BLACK_ROSE mentions above before diving into the game too far. I just re-watched it myself last night as I'm preparing to tear down my recently acquired TZ for a full shop job and it has a lot of the following information covered as well. You can get a DVD copy from http://www.pinrepair.com/top/

As for things to look out for, or things that will need to be fixed, the most important is probably the slot machine stand-up target and scoop. The Yellow stand up right next to the scoop isn't strong enough to handle the repeated impact of the ball from such close range. So what happens is the whole thing weakens and bends backwards causing airballs (which may damage plastics) and in turn the scoop to start taking direct hits on the edge. The weakened scoop will eventually break at the welds at the top and once this happens there's a good chance that the plastic covering those targets and the scoop will snap in half. Luckily, all these parts are available to be replaced in reproduction/improved versions. Most notably, there are reinforced targets available from PBR that will eliminate the bending problem. These are HIGHLY recommended to replace the slot machine as well as the Clock Millions target between the two ramps as it suffers from bending and airballs also, though not to quite the same degree.

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm
WLL-A18530-2E (GRN Clock Millions)
WLL-A18530-6E (YEL Slot Machine)

Mantis Amusements also sells a replacement slot machine scoop if you need it. If it's not broken I wouldn't bother but if it is broken, you'll need to have it re-welded or simply replace it with the upgraded version.

http://www.mantisamusements.com/tz.htm

If it's broken, the slot machine plastic is available by itself from bayareamamusements.com. Not sure if it's available elsewhere without buying an entire set of plastics.

The clock is a big one but it all sorta depends on what sort of shape its in now and how comfortable you are with working on it. I'm probably going to leave mine as is since it works fine, it's in great shape and I rarely leave my game on for extended periods of time but it's never a bad idea to reduce the heat inside one of those things from what I've been reading.

I just want to echo everything jay said about installing the enhanced clock millions and slot machine targets. This is without a doubt the best mod you can do to help prevent damage to your machine. Another easy thing to do would be to add a full set of plastic protectors:

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=153&zenid=dm6d93tupe4igf6ec3uk09k4n0

You may also want to check and see what kind of plunger spring is installed. A lot of ops don't realize that the game is supposed to come with a low tension spring, so they swap it out for a normal one. Over time, this can damage the skill shot scoop. I just started a separate thread on this subject, since my TZ happens to have the wrong spring:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-to-buy-tz-plunger-spring

LOL !!!!! I had a Small Green Lottery pencil Lodged between the weak target beside the scoop until I ordered a Rein-Forced 1 from Marco.. The pencil worked great tho... ( Hank repaire guide )

TZ_Spiral_mod.jpg

It's just a good idea to run through the test and make sure the same problems repeat themselves there as well. If they're not working in test, look under the playfield for loose wires to that coil or on the daisy chain to that coil. If that's not your problem, I suspect you'll need to check the transistors that drive those coils on the board.

There used to be a guide for TZ specifically but it looks like he pulled that too. It was up not all that long ago because I recall hitting it. I don't think it had much of anything that wasn't covered in the vids though.

This does not sound like a switch matrix issue at all. In fact the switches seem to be registering fine. It sounds more like a power chain problem to me. I don't have a TZ manual in front of me but just by your descriptions, ie, all the solenoids seem to be physically on one side of the game - you may have a broken wire that feeds all of them. There are several daisy chains for both power and switches and even lamps. Any break in the chain will take out all devices downstream in the chain.

Very little tends to go wrong on the mini playfield so if I were you I wouldn't go tearing into it just yet. It's a little bit tricky taking it apart and with your skill level I'd leave it alone for now.

First thing to do is check the solenoids in diagnostics mode. Refer to your manual on how to enter tests. If the coils work in test but not game mode you have a broken switch circuit down on the playfield or cabinet wiring. Since you say the switches register I don't think this is your problem.

I would next check all fuses in the backbox. If you have a blown fuse, well, there's your break in the daisy chain Do NOT smply look at them to see if they are good. Do NOT check them with an ohm meter in the game. Remove them or at least lift them out on one end and then check for continuity with your ohm meter. It's still preferrable to completely remove them as I've seen plenty that check good with a meter but fail in the game due to a loose end cap! The cap heats up and separates from the fuse wire and boom, dead circuit. Please remove to check.

If all fuses are good check the connectors on the power driver board for those solenoid cicuits in question. Pull and reseat. Often times pulling them will immediately reveal burnt header pins and connector shells. This is much more common on the general illumination (GI) connectors on the left hand side so you may as well check those while you're in there too. Any burnt header pins need to be replaced and this means pulling the board to solder in a new header array. Consider your skill level before doing this. The connector shells or housings need to also be replaced and requires a bit of crimping knowledge and the right tools. Remember though, we are working systmatically along the power chain.

If connections and fuses are good, and while we are in the backbox, you need to then check the drive transistors. You'll need your manual to determine which transistors drive which coils. The manual has a solenoid chart which shows this. Transistors are designated by the letter Q and a number, eg, Q34. You'll need a test lead with alligator clips on each end. Clip one end to the ground braid in the backbox. Turn the game power on and locate the transistor in question. Touch the other end of the clip lead to the metal tab of the transistor.

Does the coil fire?

YES: If so the power chain is good to that coil. We need to look elsewhere and that usually means a problem between the switch circuit which tells the coil to operate and the drive transistor. It could be a pre-driver transistor or a TTL 740x chip ahead of that or a PIA 6826 chip that drives that. Hopefully not as this is somewhat serious board work In your case you state that the switches register so they are indeed telling the CPU to turn on a coil.

No: If not then the transistor itself could be bad or the ground or power circuit for that coil is broken off somewhere, usually at the coil itself. Remember, our pinball circuits are hot at all times and only operate when the GROUND circuit is completed. If it didn't fire with your clip lead it likely didn't fire in test mode either and that almost always means a blown transistor.

This should be enough for you to get a good start. Mainly look for broken wires under the playfield and fuses and connectors in the backbox. Oh and best of luck