(Topic ID: 246660)

STUMPED!

By Vinnypin

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by MT45
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 4 years ago

    Client called for repair on Junkyard, no boot situation. Checked voltages on driver board, and find that 5V is missing (no LED 101, only 1.4V DC at TP101.
    I check the incoming A/C voltage at J129 and find 9.63V A/C, so I'm satisfied that it's a board level issue. I replace the voltage regulator LM317 at Q1 after checking the resistance of R1 and get 749Ohms, and R1 and get 242.6 Ohms. Figure that's close enough to ensure that we're getting at least real close to 5V from the Regulator. No dice, still no LED, and nothing higher than 1.4 at TP 101. I check and replace (even though they were OK) D7 through D10 with new components. Still no change. The only thing left is c9, and while I will replace that, when I get the part in, I can't see what's left if this doesn't solve the problem. Is there something I'm missing here? What else is left? Oh, I forgot to mention, I checked fuse F105, it's fine, continuity along the circuit is fine. I reflowed ALL the associated header pins with new solder, including the fuse holder legs, J 129, J 136 and 137, and obviously all the new components.

    Any suggestions on where to turn next would be greatly appreciated, as I don't expect this will turn out to be a bad cap. P.S. this board was tested in a known working WPC-95 game, and the results are exactly the same, so it is definitely a driver board issue as far as I understand it.

    Thanks

    #2 4 years ago
    Quoted from Vinnypin:

    Any suggestions on where to turn next would be greatly appreciated, as I don't expect this will turn out to be a bad cap.

    Sounds like you hit everything that should have fixed it; at this point I would suspect a broken thru hole and perform resistance checks between D9/D10 and the input to Q1 as well as from the output from Q1 to TP101. A resistance check may tell you more than a continuity check as you may see resistance fluctuations that you would miss in a continuity check. Keep in mind that a broken thru hole can be making enough contact to pass a continuity test, but not enough to support a current load.

    Cheap and easy test...jumper D9/D10 to the input of Q1 and jumper the output of Q1 to TP101; I would be willing to bet your 5V comes back.

    Other thoughts ... I don't know if there is a layer transition under C1, but I would do a visual on it as I've seen these leak in other areas and the corrosion underneath will break the thru hole connection point.

    #3 4 years ago

    Ok, so I went back over the board and schematics one more time to check and see what I may have missed. Turns out, I replaced the wrong voltage regulator.... My eyes are not what they used to be, and I ended up replacing the VR at Q2 instead of Q1. In doing so, I realized that I replaced the VR at Q2 with the same part used in Q1, (although one is a TO type package, and the other is a TIP type package) So I order up a new LM 317 in a TO style package and replace that, replace the incorrect Q2 with the original LM 7812, and lo and behold, I have 5 volts back and the game boots...

    However, I realize not all is good yet. I have absolutely ZERO playfield power. No GI lights, no CPU controlled lamps, no solenoid power, nothing!. Game plays blind, switches all register, backbox GI works fine, display and sound are fine, and all voltages check out on the driver board etc. CPU has obviously booted as the game is running, but the cabinet is absolutely lifeless.

    Considering I did plug in the board with the wrong voltage regulator at Q2 one time, have I fried my CPU with the wrong voltage going through the 12 volt rail? That diagram I have does say it goes to the lamp matrix, but why no GI or solenoids, flippers, etc.?

    I put back in the original (good) board, and the issues remain, so it's definitely something in the game at this point. (IE, not a missing or misplaced connector)

    Let me know what you guys think.

    If it is the CPU, where do I start to diagnose what took a hit?

    #4 4 years ago
    Quoted from Vinnypin:

    Considering I did plug in the board with the wrong voltage regulator at Q2 one time, have I fried my CPU with the wrong voltage going through the 12 volt rail?

    Installing a +5V regulator at Q2 (+12VR) should not have caused these issues; the output of Q2 is only used by the CPU board and its only function there is to develop the switch matrix which is working.

    I would double check that the ribbon cable between the CPU and PDB is installed correctly, and if it is, try flipping it over to see if it makes a difference.

    CORRECTION:
    My eyes aren't what they used to be either and I was looking at the WPC89 PDB schematic. On the WPC95 board, the only place I see the regulated 12V used is to power the LM339 at U1 for the Zero Cross Circuit; however this circuit will only effect your GI lamps dimming capability.

    Aero Cross information/testing:
    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#GI_Lamps_Not_Dimming

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    #5 4 years ago

    Had already tried several times to reseat the CPU/Driver board ribbon cable thinking the same thing. Seeing the same results with both the original Driver board and the one I was working on repairing, I figured that wasn't the issue.

    Went back up and tried again today (still didn't see that it was off a row etc.) It fired right up, everything is working as it should be. May have a flaky ribbon, or cold solder joint. If issues re-appear, I'll be sure to order a new one, and reflow the pins.

    Thanks for the 2nd set of eyes on this one and the suggestion to try again. I thought I was in for buying a new replacement CPU.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from Vinnypin:

    Had already tried several times to reseat the CPU/Driver board ribbon cable thinking the same thing. Seeing the same results with both the original Driver board and the one I was working on repairing, I figured that wasn't the issue.
    Went back up and tried again today (still didn't see that it was off a row etc.) It fired right up, everything is working as it should be. May have a flaky ribbon, or cold solder joint. If issues re-appear, I'll be sure to order a new one, and reflow the pins.
    Thanks for the 2nd set of eyes on this one and the suggestion to try again. I thought I was in for buying a new replacement CPU.

    Nice detective work and congrats on the repair. No better feeling than finally fixing it!

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