First, I believe you soldered the wires in the wrong place.
On the first pic, at the top of the board, is "K" and "A". "K" is usually the Cathode, and "A" is Anode. Seeing as how they're right there near some thu-holes, my guess is that is where the wires SHOULD be soldered.
Same for the board on the bottom - though the 'C' and 'E' are on the LED, and not the thru-holes.

Are there traces on the back of these boards that connect the soldered on wires to the correct spot?

Yeah they are. Do you have a meter to ohm out to see if there is connection between the wires and the opto?

Although there is some other circuitry on the board, so maybe the wires aren’t suppose to go directly to the opto?

Possibly someone who is familiar with that kit will chime in.

To make it a bit easier I would just buy an original set of boards....look at page 1-45 in the manual too..

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-infared-led-opto-assembly-set.html

Here is a picture I also found for reference..

williams_optos_back (resized).jpg

Don’t know who made that kit. It’s not the Pinbits one. From Pinbits website, their board has a circuit on it too. So the bare board recommended above is most likely incorrect. Suggest it should be hooked up the way it is currently wired.

See Pinbits board picture as evidence that the resistor and diode belong in the circuit.

Isn’t there a color convention for anode and cathode on these boards. I’m remembering there is but not which is which. Check the TZ manual and I think you have your answer.

7B110C23-A1F7-45EC-A97E-10DD89C73846 (resized).png

Ok, here is the color code
17B2DB3A-285A-4D0F-B795-798D87AFF3C8 (resized).png

Double check me

Transmitter:
Anode = Gray
Cathode = Black

Receiver:
Collector = White
Emitter = Green

I let you blaze the trail. I have the Pinbits kit and 3rd magnet repro playfield as a future swap project..

Isn’t that exactly what the manual says, not the opposite?

Ah, I see what you mean. The letters K/A and C/E are on the wrong boards. BUT, the board labeled Transmitter is printed "OPT" and the board labeled Receiver is printed "OPR" with the correct wire colors.

When you compare the two devices, does the one labeled transmitter poke out from the housing more than the one labeled receiver? See the side view shown in the manual.

Seems like the K/A and C/E are typos. Do you know the manufacturer to possibly confirm?

Opened my Pinbits kit from its 2007 time capsule.

The transmitter side black wire labeled ‘E’ and white wire labeled ‘C’ on the board appears to have no electronics beside LED and it protrudes from the housing as illustrated in the manual. But really should be labeled K/A?

The receiver side white wire is labeled ‘+’ and green ‘-‘ has a resistor, diode and what looks like a small chip on the board. The receiver footprint shows where the flat side is oriented to the left (negative).

In all these pictures the Collector of the receiver is on the left and should be the White wire, not the green wire like it says in the manual?

Anybody use the Pinbits or this other kit successfully as wired?

0523327B-4DA2-4A7B-9C8F-6DDA6F19B894 (resized).jpeg261890E7-A2C8-4436-A97D-0D4B323535C9 (resized).jpeg

Picture of the optos of the Pinbits kit from their website matches yours. So it looks like you have the newer version of the Pinbits kit.

DSCN1724_small (resized).JPG

I think the boards are correctly wired. It looks to me like the same board is used for the transmitter and receiver. One side is transmitter. The other side is receiver. When you look at the board as it's wired you're looking at the SOLDER side. Usually silkscreening is done for the COMPONENT side. I bet (and I have no evidence for this other than suspicion) that if you unscrew the boards from the plastic mount you'll find that they're the same board. Just populated on the opposite side for the desired functionality.

The transmitter looks correct. It's a simple circuit that runs the power (gray) wire through the anode to the cathode and then to the ground (black) wire. If you connect this to a board connector you'll need a 270@2W resistor. You could run this in parallel with an already present wire to tap on the already current limited connection.

The receiver looks like a slotted opto switch circuit. It contains a current limiting resistor and a diode for switch matrix connection. Rather than place the switch directly on the matrix like other Williams slotted opto boards it appears to use a surface mounted transistor (wild guess - a 2N3904 equivalent) to switch the row to column current to act like a physical switch. With this wiring you don't need the additional "11th" switch daughter board that somebody documented as a "piggy back" to the custom 10-opto board in Twilight Zone.

Lo-and-behold ... the Pinbits documentation confirms the above.

http://iobium.com/third_magnet_project.htm

Perfect. Appreciate the confirmation and very thorough explanation!

Good call on the reversible board theory. Saw this in the link you provided-

463527EA-E8B6-4E9D-9226-BB284E98C8EE (resized).jpeg

Hey iamabearsfan you don't have to remove your newly created 11th opto board if you go with bare optos like those pictured in post #7 above.

I think you do have to shim though to make them taller like the Pinbits ones.

Hang in there.

Ok, I am going to revive this thread with a dumb question.
The third magnet kits are no longer listed as available on the pinbits2 website, so I have been piecing together my own kit.

I have the magnet setup, and the driver installed on the under playfield driver board. What I am missing is the Opto setup for the magnet.

Now it is my understanding that in order to drive the opto off of the switch matrix rather run through the opto board, you have to have a special high amperage opto setup, like the the ones pictured in the first post of this thread. If you try to use the bare Williams optos, they will work for a little bit, and then burn out.

Does anyone know where I could buy a set of high amperage optos to use in my 3rd magnet install?

Bare ("standard") opto boards just have an emitter (light emitting diode) and receiver (photo-transistor) on separate boards. The opto board itself drives the emitter and translates the output of the receiver to a form that is compatible with the switch matrix circuitry.

The emitter requires a current limiting resistor (prevents the LED from burning out). The output of the receiver is either full voltage (+12VU) or no voltage (0V).

You don't necessarily need an opto board (with comparators, etc). You can apply the same circuitry as the slotted opto boards. The slotted optos are an emitter and receiver in one package. See the excerpt following from the original clock opto board schematic.

http://iobium.com/opto_board.htm has the information that you need. Specifically the "left" image @ http://iobium.com/third_2.jpg shows the circuit and the "right" image @ http://iobium.com/third_4.jpg shows the layout.

The board is very small and is easy to make (for someone with board making experience). I recently re-did the Banzai Run interconnect board but only received a handful of requests. I had one run made and didn't need to order another. Unfortunately ... I think this board would fall under the same category of lack of demand after fabrication.

opto.jpg

Ok, I am revisiting this subject after a bit more research. The wiring diagram linked above is a bit deceiving. J1 is not connected to the switch matrix. It actually goes to the minute opto board, which in term connect the Optos to the 10 opto driver board under the playfield. That board does not have any extra capacity. So this leaves be back into the same boat.

Screen Shot 2020-07-25 at 11.48.37 AM (resized).png

Looking at the wiring diagram on the iobum website, it appears they are running a small transistor connected to the receiving LED. I have no information on the transistor, so right now I am kinda stuck. I did find some information on the net about expanding the opto board, but that looks a bit onerous.

Sorry. Don't take this personally. The second part of your statement above is not correct. Yes ... the hour board connects to the minute board. The minute board connects directly to the switch matrix - not the 10-opto board. The switch matrix row wires connect at J3. The switch matrix column wire connects at J2 (along with the power and GI wires). The 10-opto board is NOT involved with these optos. The 10-opto board is used for discrete emitter/receiver pairs not slotted optos. The "output" (CE = the emitter side) of the slotted optos is directly connected to the switch matrix wires.

In summary for discrete emitter/receiver pairs:

1) You can only use "bare" emitter/receiver boards when driven by additional circuitry - contained on the 10-opto board.
2) You can put the additional circuitry onto custom emitter/receiver boards (can be combined into a single board like the Pinbits boards).
3) You can put the additional circuitry directly into the circuit and use bare emitter/receiver boards.

If you don't use the additional circuitry you will blow the emitter LED - i.e. it needs a current limiting resistor (270 Ohm @ 2W on the board or 470 Ohm @ 0.5W when a slotted opto is used).

Putting the receiver directly on the switch matrix wiring works because despite the current leakage in the "dark" state the voltage is low enough that the voltage comparators (LM339) on the CPU detect the correct state. The transistor is used to isolate the receiver from the switch matrix and remove the current leakage in the "dark" state. It's a cleaner solution from an electrical standpoint but due to the nature of the circuit is not 100% required - proof is the slotted optos work just fine.

Ok, I took a look at block diagram for the 10 opto board. You are correct. J5 connects directly to the switch matrix. It looks like the switch matrix wire is looped through J5 on its way to the CPU board.

Screen Shot 2020-07-25 at 4.06.46 PM (resized).png

You got me thinking of an alternative solution to putting the circuitry on the emitter/receiver boards. The circuitry can be placed on an intermediate board. For those who have had security / cryptography experience ... think "man in the middle attack".

tz_3rd_magnet.jpg

It's a rendering / mock-up. I just placed an order for some prototype boards so this misses out on that order. It can be made in the next order if there's demand for it. With the board in place a "bare" emitter/receiver pair can be used. It's option #3 (above).

I got it working this evening. I do admit to have cheated a little on the wiring for the emitter. Per Ed Chung's website: http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm I wired the emitter up in series with the right magnet emitter. I then hooked up the receiver to the white/red row and the green/gray column. I put the machine in switch test, and now have a working switch 82.

What version do you have?
I think you need 9.4H for third magnet

Looks like it’s in the Adjustments section- set it to Yes

A. 2.50. 3rd Magnet

That looks like it....Multi-ball start 3 magnet grab = Yes

That is the only *setting* that affects the 3rd magnet.
These other things will *always* be active:
1. Light Animation/Sound when the ball passes the opto.
2. 3rd Magnet will grab and catch the ball on the third shot during 'The Spiral' mode.

The setting above only enables the chance to have the game 'capture' three balls on the magnets during multiball start. (And this will only happen when: A. The game KNOWS the powerball is in the gumball machine, and B. Multiball starts with two or three balls in the trough/autofire kicker.)

It's solenoid 22 (NOT USED). The solenoid should energize in test and if you have a ball nearby if should probably try to "grab" it. Note use of the word should. I have not done this so I don't know if it will actually do it.

Test menu, there is a 'Magnet Test' that will activate the magnet when the opto is broken. Put a ball up there, and it'll grab the ball.