Hold has to be on for the game to run, so the problem is elsewhere. OR, do you mean the game lites up? It will be in tilt until it starts. What game is this?

The game is actually tilted. The Tilt relay sw. (single sw. A-1084) in post 3 should be closed. Check these tilt switches.

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No, they should be nice and straight. The way the relay works is that when the coil is energized it pulls the plate in (circled below) and that lifts the switch blades, either directly or via the vinyl lifters. If you look at the schematic, next to the Hold relay on the legend it reads: 2A, 1C under Contacts. That means two switches are NO (normally open) and 1 is a M/B (make/break). And is the Tilt sw. (circled) making solid contact? It is hard to tell from the pic. Again, looking at the legend you see 1B under Contacts, which means that it is a NC (normally closed) sw. Check this site, which I mentioned in your other thread, for more detail if you have questions on adjusting the contacts: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1 (PS-it's good to keep to one thread. If I hadn't seen the other one I wouldn't have seen the schematic snippet you posted)(PPS-once you've straightened out the blades make adjustments on the short blade only)

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The bottom circled sw. is adjusted correctly. You can see how the it will make contact when the plate pulls in and also how, as is, the vinyl lifters won't be working.

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Yes, it should. Is the top circled sw. making contact? It should not. The sw. should go, from the bottom, open, open, closed, open. One hint is the number of spacers: if you look at the oddly shaped circle area you'll see there are two spacers for NO and only one for NC.

The upper pic in post 16 is Tilt? The long blade with the lifter needs to be bent down to touch the plate and the contacts need to be making solid contact. The lifter should open the contact when the plate is pulled in.

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Good job, and yes.

What do you mean by reset lever?

Only one pic and I don't see what you're referring to.

Pic 2 the coil is engaged and the plate is pulled in. Everything looks right.

I sent you a message.

Check the bonus unit, which should be in the back box, for clean rivets on the side with moving arms, and also that the contact on the arms are clean and making solid contact. Also the bulbs themselves, which you can get at from under the playfield, though it is unlikely that they'd all be shot or that all the sockets need to be cleaned, but ya never know. For the bumpers: there should be a double switch under each. Make sure they're clean and adjusted correctly. Pop the caps off and make sure the bulbs aren't shot.

Which 100K?

It's odd: there is a 100K unit reset but I don't see one for the 10K unit so you'll have to compare them pre and post reset. There should be a '0' pos. switch on each and the one on the 10K may need to be cleaned and/or gapped correctly.

Any idea what 'ON SLIDE' is? Never saw that before.

I don't.

Not sure how to get the backglass out on this machine, but you need to get in to check the bulb and socket.

Re-read my post 33. Not sure which one is the Bonus unit, but it should only have one coil.

Pretty funny-maybe not for you-that it was taped!! Sheesh. You'll need to get a new switch. You're holding it backward in the pic. Fish paper is the 'insulation' that you will see between some switch blades.