(Topic ID: 233735)
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Eight Ball Champ
Bally, 1985
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Sana'a
Quoted from newbieinKC:Thanks, guys. Looks like the switch on the right flipper is different than in the 03 kit pictured (double switch), but the other parts look like they match. I can probably get the switch somewhere or call Pinball Resource when they open Monday.
Show us a pic of what switch is installed right now.
Some switches are stacks, where the EOS switch (like the above) gets stacked on top of a low voltage "lane change" switch.
Normally, you only replace the EOS switch, the low voltage one sometimes lasts 30 years.
For 5 years, Bally tried to convince the ops that the Linear flippers were good.
But they weighed 2x the amount of a normal flipper plunger, and wore out into slop in just a few months of use; that made them slow and sloppy.
Your EBC actually did what all the ops did in the field - go back to the 70s style, super fast flipper mechs.
The Bally game before yours, Fireball Classic, came from the factory with the crappy Linear flippers. Had you had asked about that game's flippers sticking, we would have told you to rebuild it with the much superior 70s mechs.
The best way to think of it is:
The flippers are THE interface between you and the machine.
They are the one place you DO NOT want to skimp.
They are the one place you DO NOT want to hobble something together.
They are the one place you DO NOT want to hope that past operators **maybe** did a partial rebuild.
Just completely rebuild all the flippers with the proper, matching, late 1970s "03" rebuild kit.
Then you absolutely KNOW the game is playing as powerfully and as responsively as it possibly can.
Quoted from newbieinKC:I have 3 flippers and the right one has a double switch and the switch geometry seems to be different in the kit.
Don't let the look of the switches throw you.
Tons of pintechs use the Williams EOS switches in Bally & Classic Stern games, and have done so for decades.
A game from the 80s probably has had it's flippers rebuilt a dozen times by now.
The lane change is a low voltage switch (often gold plated contacts), the EOS is a high voltage (larger tungsten contacts) - that's all that matters. Everything else is just getting the insulation spacers lined up with whatever new switches you can get.
Call PBR, give them the # for the switches from the manual, they'll tell you the current substitution, don't expect them to look exactly like the picture.
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