(Topic ID: 52396)

ST:TNG Toasted Coil.... I need options

By worldofglenn

10 years ago



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#1 10 years ago

I cannot have her down, I need more power! Looks like my bottom diverter coil fried. Specs say that it's a 25-1000 with no diode. I have a 23-800 with a diode stretch across. Can I sub the 23-800 if I cut the diode out?

The culprit is a TIP102, can I sub a TIP122?

It would be great to get her up to warp speed tonight.

Of course this happens just after I order a ton parts

Thank you!

#2 10 years ago

You might have more issues than that.

The up coil for the single drop target has three wires to one lug. Purple with green stripe wire. Two fat ones and one skinny one that is more lavender with green stripe.

If the skinny one breaks off ( it is for a diode tie back ) you blow up some stuff on the small driver board top right side of the head on your game, and burn up that coil.

So you need to repair board, replace coil.

And the three wires to the one lug, I would solder the three of them to one wire, and then solder the single wire to the coil lug. So if it breaks off the coil stops working, you don't blow up a lot of stuff.

LTG : )

#3 10 years ago

Its not the drop target. Its part of the subway system, also called the U assembly. Its listed as coil #38 in the book. It does go to the small board, Q15.

I suspected the drop target at first (infinite ball launches), but that part appears fine. I'll double check.

Thanks Lloyd!!!

#4 10 years ago

As usual, Lloyd is most likely correct here. There is a smaller guage purple wire with a green stripe that goes from the aux driver board in the head all the way down to the 4 coils that are controlled. This wire is critical to protecting those drive transistors from getting fried by the coil flyback. That wire easily breaks. Once it does, any of the 4 coils on that side of the driver board (if memory serves it's both subway diverters and the up/down of the drop target), once fired, can blow or weaken the 4 drive transistors. My money says that both diverter coils are locked on and only one has completely melted down so far. And yes, this happened to me.

First thing, find that wire... it goes to the 4 diodes on the aux driver board. It's a horrible design choice they made to wire it all the way down to the playfield when the clamp voltage is already available in the head. Find it and make sure it's still connected to the coil down below. My bet is that it isn't. If it's broke, there might only be 2 transistors fried, but all 4 are weakened. I replaced all 4 just because I didn't want to have to fix it again later. Then replace the coils that are damaged. For sure one subway diverted, probably the other as well. The drop target coil is probably ok.

Best of luck!
Jaz

Post edited by Jazman : Clarity

#5 10 years ago

I'm about to dive in, any ideas on the substitution possibilities ?

#6 10 years ago

I got the correct part at GPE. Good prices and fast shipping. Not sure about subs...

Sorry.
Jaz

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from worldofglenn:

Its not the drop target. Its part of the subway system, also called the U assembly. Its listed as coil #38 in the book. It does go to the small board, Q15.

I suspected the drop target at first (infinite ball launches), but that part appears fine. I'll double check.

I didn't say it was the drop target, I told you why it happened and where it started and how to fix/avoid it again.

If the skinny wire is off and you don't fix it, you'll just keep blowing up stuff.

LTG : )

#8 10 years ago

+1 on Lloyds assessment. Mine was in this exact condition. Without fixing the cause, repairing the result will simply produce more toasted parts.

#9 10 years ago

Skinny wire is solidly attached.

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