(Topic ID: 70604)

STTNG: Time for a flipper rebuild?


By smokey_789

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by pezpunk
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 5 years ago

Had the game a 3 degrees and 10 degrees. Either way, ball can seldom make the alpha ramp and barely makes the center hole. Is it time for a rebuild?

#2 5 years ago

It's time to figure out why your flipper is weak. A cracked bushing can cause this. Or perhaps the coil stop is loose so the coil isn't held on tight. Get in there and see what the problem is.

#3 5 years ago

Indeed, tear those apart and see what is wrong, that centershot must be a BENG!! shot not a dribble

#4 5 years ago

I'm on it! (After the tornado warnings are over)

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from smokey_789:

I'm on it! (After the tornado warnings are over)

haha yeah same here! Warning's over pins are now powered up

I rebuilt all three of mine when I restored it no problem hitting ramps now.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Mantra:

I rebuilt all three of mine when I restored it no problem hitting ramps now.

Same here.

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from Mantra:

haha yeah same here! Warning's over pins are now powered up
I rebuilt all three of mine when I restored it no problem hitting ramps now.

Hope you made it through the storms OK.
Manual calls out FL11629 for lower left flipper. Didn't see any spec for the lower and upper right flippers but mine have FL17636 coils on them. Is this correct? And did you guys put in new coils when you rebuilt?

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from smokey_789:

Manual calls out FL11629 for lower left flipper. Didn't see any spec for the lower and upper right flippers but mine have FL17636 coils on them. Is this correct?

See page 2-44 of the manual: specifies all 3 flips get a blue 11629.

Prototypes, test models, and likely some early production games had coils that were stronger than FL-11629s: they used FL-17636s--but those are the strongest coils Williams made; they break stuff--so regular production games used blue 11629s.

Just rebuild all 3 flips (squeeze the coil HARD to the stop bracket when rebuilding/torqueing the Allen screws to remove any gap), correctly level the game, and install the recommended 11629s.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from NM:

See page 2-44 of the manual: specifies all 3 flips get a blue 11629.
Prototypes, test models, and likely some early production games had coils that were stronger than FL-11629s: they used FL-17636s--but those are the strongest coils Williams made; they break stuff--so regular production games used blue 11629s.
Just rebuild all 3 flips (squeeze the coil HARD to the stop bracket when rebuilding/torqueing the Allen screws to remove any gap), correctly level the game, and install the recommended 11629s.

for what it's worth, I installed the stronger "prototype" coil on the upper right flipper to try to mitigate the fact that I stink at the warp ramp shot (haha), but I barely noticed any difference in flipper strength.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

for what it's worth, I installed the stronger "prototype" coil on the upper right flipper to try to mitigate the fact that I stink at the warp ramp shot (haha), but I barely noticed any difference in flipper strength.

Haha

It's more of a perfect-momentum type of short
Instantly you "feel" if it's gonna make it or... propels nasty back at you

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