(Topic ID: 297368)

STTNG: Ten Forward ran out of booze, initiate self destruct sequence

By radium

54 days ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by radium
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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 54 days ago

I got this re-import STTNG a few years ago really cheap. But, like that new Picard show, it has serious problems. The canons didn’t work, the trough optos were shot, the cabinet amp was blown and so was the speaker, there were cut wires under the playfield, etc. The MPU, fliptronics, and 8 driver board are Rottendog. The other boards are decent originals.

Well I fixed all the broken stuff and it’s been playable ever since, but the game is still loaded with hacks, it’s dirty, and it looks tired. Had a problem this week with diverter coils... think it’s time for a full restore.

The plan is to first straighten out all the wiring hacks. Then I’ll do a complete tear down, refinish cabinet, new decals, all new ramps, new subway, new plastics, new toys, restore the original playfield, so on so forth. The original playfield has full mylar and will clean up really nice!

CE075AEA-2663-4B4D-8C6A-7EF25F46F332 (resized).jpeg

#2 54 days ago

So here’s what I’m dealing with.

The wiring harness is hacked to hell. Most of the cable ties were cut off. The wiring is a mess! There are tons of heat-shrinked splices.

I can’t tear the machine apart until I sort all this out, or I’ll never get it back together correctly.

3BC76F82-6AAC-433C-8331-5303E55EBE48 (resized).jpeg

Big ball of loose wire and hacks. I think this is for the right ramp flasher but haven’t found where it goes yet.

46BA5C77-7F87-442F-BA65-492C61988A5B (resized).jpeg

The harness for the subway optos is on the opposite side of the machine compared to other machines I’ve seen. I can’t tell if this was factory or not yet, hopefully someone here can help me figure this out.

ED27381C-1C41-4250-AE86-755271B9EDF2 (resized).jpeg

#3 54 days ago

Would try the STNG club...

#4 54 days ago

The back box is just as bad as the playfield.

95DA7CDC-4B0D-4F48-BE6B-E14791E739E6 (resized).jpeg

Somebody loves heat shrink.

A17F99E2-4A7A-42F6-99AC-9E6DDB9BB0FE (resized).jpeg

#5 54 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Would try the STNG club...

Fair. At least the topside looks good at first glance.

Under side lookslike a challenge.

#6 54 days ago

Hey, it’s arguably one of the greatest pins ever made for a multitude of reasons, and I currently have one for sale on pinside.
Not because I want to even sell it, but because I’m about to start working on a first gen K5 Blazer,
But if you have to work on a games hacks and what not, at least it’s a stellar title.

#7 54 days ago

OP I have all kinds of pics, great game!

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#8 54 days ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

OP I have all kinds of pics, great game!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you, these are very helpful! Working on backbox tomorrow.

#9 54 days ago

I’m trying to decide what to do about this. The subway wiring for the diverter coils and optos is on the wrong side of my playfield. I can’t imagine why.

It sort of looks like it left the factory this way. There’s not enough extra wire to re-route the optos, and there’s too much wire for the coil power. I don’t think the person working on this machine could have managed this.

It bothers me, but I might have to leave these here and just clean it all up. Or I could move just the coil power wiring... there’s not enough wire to route the optos though.

17A7ECE1-F4DA-4902-9608-D571AD0FAE5A.jpeg

This is someone else’s machine for reference...
9CDE5CA6-D9B6-4990-9DC2-9AD05BCFEC6F.jpeg

#10 54 days ago
Quoted from radium:

I’m trying to decide what to do about this. The subway wiring for the diverter coils and optos is on the wrong side of my playfield. I can’t imagine why.
It sort of looks like it left the factory this way. There’s not enough extra wire to re-route the optos, and there’s too much wire for the coil power. I don’t think the person working on this machine could have managed this.

There are at least three separate wiring harnesses in those "big bundle of wires". It looks like the separate harnesses have been (zip)tied together. The (non yellowed) white ties that haven't been cut are a good indication of this.

If this were my machine I would cut the ties holding the separate bundles (it sounds like they were already cut by a person who previously worked on the machine) and then re-route the separate harnesses correctly. The factory should have wired them all the same way and unless someone cut excess wire from the harness everything should reach the intended target.

The harnesses that are probably routed correctly are the lamp and switch harnesses. It's hard to route them incorrectly due to the number of connections. The power harness is probably routed incorrectly. The opto harness sounds like it is definitely routed incorrectly.

I mentioned this above but it deserves an emphasis ... there are separate harnesses within the "big bundle of wires". The wires of each separate harness are tied together and those tied separate harnesses may be again tied together with a bigger tie. I have stripped a lot of machines down to the bare playfield (for clearcoating) and although it has been a few years since I have done something like that I seem to recall that the factory did NOT tie the separate harnesses with (yet another) tie. The separate harnesses remain separate in the cable clamps.

#11 53 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

There are at least three separate wiring harnesses in those "big bundle of wires". It looks like the separate harnesses have been (zip)tied together. The (non yellowed) white ties that haven't been cut are a good indication of this.
If this were my machine I would cut the ties holding the separate bundles (it sounds like they were already cut by a person who previously worked on the machine) and then re-route the separate harnesses correctly. The factory should have wired them all the same way and unless someone cut excess wire from the harness everything should reach the intended target.

I’m cutting them but starting in the backbox first and working down. I probably couldn’t handle pulling everything out all at once. Maybe if I knew the order the factory worked in? Like switches and lamps first, then coils, etc.

Quoted from DumbAss:

The harnesses that are probably routed correctly are the lamp and switch harnesses. It's hard to route them incorrectly due to the number of connections. The power harness is probably routed incorrectly. The opto harness sounds like it is definitely routed incorrectly.
I mentioned this above but it deserves an emphasis ... there are separate harnesses within the "big bundle of wires". The wires of each separate harness are tied together and those tied separate harnesses may be again tied together with a bigger tie. I have stripped a lot of machines down to the bare playfield (for clearcoating) and although it has been a few years since I have done something like that I seem to recall that the factory did NOT tie the separate harnesses with (yet another) tie. The separate harnesses remain separate in the cable clamps.

What really confuses me is the coil power harness is much much longer than it would be if it were in the usual spot. I highly doubt this person sought out the correct color wire and built a new one that reaches all the way over.

I’ll double check the optos and see if they would reach, but it looked short. So weird.

If I could find the correct color wire, I would rebuild all these harnesses. No luck on that so far. And I hate using the wrong color wire, can’t do it.

#12 53 days ago

It looks like there are instances of big bundle ties. It also looks like there is a discrete opto bundle.

This image shows three discrete bundles (running horizontally). It also shows the big bundle tie (at the right). The horizontal harnesses are:

  1. Power harness at the top. Big VIO-YEL wires.
  2. Opto harness at the front. Small GRY-*** and ORG-*** wires.
  3. Switch harness at the bottom. Small WHT-*** and GRN-*** wires.
  4. Lamp harness. Not visible (behind the switch harness).

01_sttng_harness.jpg

This image again shows harnesses at the right.

  1. Lamp harness. Small RED-*** and YEL-*** wires.
  2. Power harness. Big center bunch of wires.
  3. Opto harness. Small GRY-*** and ORG-*** wires.
  4. Switch harness. Not visible (behind the lamp harness).

02_sttng_harness.jpg

Quoted from radium:

Maybe if I knew the order the factory worked in? Like switches and lamps first, then coils, etc.

When I work on putting everything back (after clearcoating has set) I start with the lamp harness. The GI is NOT documented in the manual so I always take images of that before I remove the lamp sockets. I put this back first as I take it off last. Then I move to the switch harness. The switch harness is documented in the manual so I don't focus too much on images that follow the trail. You can figure out where it should go from the switch matrix table. After that I don't think it matters if you install the power harness or the opto harness. I think I usually do the power harness. I finish with the opto harness as the opto harness is entirely playfield based. It does not go up to the head (backbox).

Quoted from radium:

What really confuses me is the coil power harness is much much longer than it would be if it were in the usual spot. I highly doubt this person sought out the correct color wire and built a new one that reaches all the way over.

They didn't. I think the only person who would consider doing something like this is HEP. The scratch builders would also consider this but I don't consider scratch builders "restorers". It's a different mindset when restoring versus scratch building. At least in my mind it is.

Quoted from radium:

I’ll double check the optos and see if they would reach, but it looked short. So weird.

Remember that the diverter subway assembly disconnects as an entire unit. It actually doesn't really matter if the wires of the subway don't reach the harness connector. It should but if it doesn't you can build a new harness for the subway wires only.

#13 53 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

It looks like there are instances of big bundle ties. It also looks like there is a discrete opto bundle.
This image shows three discrete bundles (running horizontally). It also shows the big bundle tie (at the right). The horizontal harnesses are:

Power harness at the top. Big VIO-YEL wires.
Opto harness at the front. Small GRY-*** and ORG-*** wires.
Switch harness at the bottom. Small WHT-*** and GRN-*** wires.
Lamp harness. Not visible (behind the switch harness).

[quoted image]
This image again shows harnesses at the right.

Lamp harness. Small RED-*** and YEL-*** wires.
Power harness. Big center bunch of wires.
Opto harness. Small GRY-*** and ORG-*** wires.
Switch harness. Not visible (behind the lamp harness).

[quoted image]

When I work on putting everything back (after clearcoating has set) I start with the lamp harness. The GI is NOT documented in the manual so I always take images of that before I remove the lamp sockets. I put this back first as I take it off last. Then I move to the switch harness. The switch harness is documented in the manual so I don't focus too much on images that follow the trail. You can figure out where it should go from the switch matrix table. After that I don't think it matters if you install the power harness or the opto harness. I think I usually do the power harness. I finish with the opto harness as the opto harness is entirely playfield based. It does not go up to the head (backbox).

They didn't. I think the only person who would consider doing something like this is HEP. The scratch builders would also consider this but I don't consider scratch builders "restorers". It's a different mindset when restoring versus scratch building. At least in my mind it is.

Remember that the diverter subway assembly disconnects as an entire unit. It actually doesn't really matter if the wires of the subway don't reach the harness connector. It should but if it doesn't you can build a new harness for the subway wires only.

Thanks that helps. I cut out a lot of ties as you suggested, and pulled out the bad opto/vuk harness. This at least made everything else easier to work on. The lamp and switch harnesses are in good shape (on the playfield at least) and I can clean those up. The power harness needs work.

The opto/vuk harness does seem to be about 30” too short on the subway opto connector.

510D1E9D-0CCF-496D-8214-225427727EB9 (resized).jpeg

I’ll probably leave this out for now and worry about it last. If I could get colored wire I would just rebuild.

1B1A913A-71F6-44C9-AD2E-EA9DBCF23288.jpeg

#14 53 days ago

I agree that the physical distance does not seem to work. The bundle of loose wires at the right of your second image is confusing me. Can you post closer images of that area? Please include the board and subway connectors as well as a possible close up of just the board connectors and the mess. It's hard for me to see in two dimensional images as well as not being able to physically manipulate the harness. I still stand by the statement that I just don't think someone would go to the trouble of wiring a new harness or cutting and re-crimping the subway connector. That's just too much work for those that aren't dedicated.

Sorry but I don't have access to my physical machine (it is out on loan). If I did I would just go and pull out the harness and image it.

#15 53 days ago

Its tough to get a helpful picture but here’s a few tries.

1C6C5E15-4C61-4135-9655-C2690AC69BE6.jpeg1D3E9B81-4A25-40BD-9E52-51FF9AE40D27.jpeg3FD24F97-B8A0-4ACB-BFC1-E2FA3624AB32.jpeg411678BF-5BCD-4B7E-8EF6-2F962A8F5B75.jpegE926D8FE-9FC9-416C-9CDC-6A2B01A18050.jpeg
#16 53 days ago

Here’s the crimp job inside the subway opto molex.

497FF64C-1465-4B02-9B1D-1356A8F6ED79.jpeg
#17 53 days ago

The crimp job looks factory original. It's not super easy for me to make out colors (due to the lighting) but you don't need to provide improved images.

When I look at the images I see what I think are two kinds of ties. Older yellow, dirty ties and newer white, clean ties. This is an assumption. I suspect that the newer ties were put in by the person who did the previous work. I can't say for sure. If this appears to be the case then you will need to undo (clip) all those ties and re-lay out the harness. It's likely that the ties were done for the incorrect routing and no matter how you try to finagle the harness it won't work because the ties are not correct for the original routing. I'm just guessing because I don't know the history and I don't have the harness in front of me.

I know it doesn't help much so I'm sorry but this is something that is a more "trial and error" routine - unless you have the image of a separate harness. Even with that image it will be difficult to easily see the colors unless it's well lit. Also be aware that there are two sets of GRY-*** and ORG-*** wires. One set for column 3 and another set for column 4. This will confuse things even more. I have confidence if you were local I would be able to help you restore this but it's next to impossible to do remotely.

If you need supplemental images I have some but they aren't well lit and not always in focus. I took them for me during my rebuild and their purpose wasn't the opto harness.

#18 53 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

The crimp job looks factory original. It's not super easy for me to make out colors (due to the lighting) but you don't need to provide improved images.
When I look at the images I see what I think are two kinds of ties. Older yellow, dirty ties and newer white, clean ties. This is an assumption. I suspect that the newer ties were put in by the person who did the previous work. I can't say for sure. If this appears to be the case then you will need to undo (clip) all those ties and re-lay out the harness. It's likely that the ties were done for the incorrect routing and no matter how you try to finagle the harness it won't work because the ties are not correct for the original routing. I'm just guessing because I don't know the history and I don't have the harness in front of me.
I know it doesn't help much so I'm sorry but this is something that is a more "trial and error" routine - unless you have the image of a separate harness. Even with that image it will be difficult to easily see the colors unless it's well lit. Also be aware that there are two sets of GRY-*** and ORG-*** wires. One set for column 3 and another set for column 4. This will confuse things even more. I have confidence if you were local I would be able to help you restore this but it's next to impossible to do remotely.
If you need supplemental images I have some but they aren't well lit and not always in focus. I took them for me during my rebuild and their purpose wasn't the opto harness.

Hard to see, but in that second image above, those six wires (3 orange, 3 gray) go directly from the subway opto connector to the opto board. The problem is they are only about 24” long total. They are stretched straight as the crow flies in the picture. There is no configuration where this section could reach from the opto board to the right VUK like other machines.

It makes no sense!!!

I appreciate your help troubleshooting, I made a lot of progress today because of it.

#19 53 days ago

Here’s progress on the playfield. I actually got a lot done. I’m confident I have documented all the hacks I need to fix.

My biggest problem is I need colored wire!! I looked around for an old harness to buy but no dice.

D6DFC8D4-9864-4A86-B387-672C53C0E324.jpeg

Backbox... removed all the playfield harnesses and isolated the light board harnesses. Lots of fixes to do on these. Started routing a few harnesses already.

Bridge heat sink is not screwed down. Several connectors need rebuilt. I’m missing the black flex hose. Also the cabinet ground is all jacked up but I’ll replace during restore.

Anything with green tape is something that needs fixed.

EE1E8E70-6A50-4787-BC31-D68C49413A67.jpeg

#21 50 days ago

Making lots of progress. I got the original subway harness straightened out. I need to cut out the weird unnecessary splices on the lower two optos. The original harness has plenty of wire... no clue why this was ever done.

I have $100 of wire coming from planetary to fix the rest of the harness hacks. I’m going to build a new harness for the opto board to subway so it can be routed like the original. I wish I had another machine to look at so I could build it the same as the original.

Building new diverter coil power harness as well.

E8CFFC33-B3FE-4EF2-A499-6816B4376C0F.jpeg

#22 47 days ago

I’ll have to go through all the lamp boards. The soldering is shot, tons of cold joints.

Some boards are missing sockets, I never even noticed.

D4BBE0D5-B95A-42AA-823D-9D4407904E18.jpeg870799F7-BCAE-4C5F-ACC6-0EB6F9D13F0F.jpeg

#23 47 days ago

Stuck waiting on parts orders. I didn’t realize GPE would take over a week just to ship. I do love Ed but I need to find somewhere new to get stuff so I’m not sitting around for a week idle.

I have harnesses routed pretty clean now. I will fix all the splices, wrong wire colors, hacks when wire and connector orders arrive.

The coil soldering is really bad but I’ll clean all that up at end of restore when I put the harness back on.

Before...
D1009129-F53D-409B-A71E-B90674CAA500.png

After...
12FE9FFC-F7B1-4758-BDF9-0B2CEA3CEF4F.jpeg

#24 47 days ago

I'm glad that game found a good home.

LTG : )

#25 42 days ago

Parts just arrived. This weekend I’ll start to build harnesses, replace incorrect color wire everywhere, and remove all splices. Then once it’s all working I’ll tear the whole machine apart!

I need to put together an order for cabinet parts next. New legs, decals, etc.

4E8E94F5-F7E6-4F76-9E40-6F3DFB1C2A7E.jpeg

#26 39 days ago

Here’s some pics of amazing soldering skills...

ED25F19B-B7ED-4BCF-800D-4007C27DCFBA.jpegDD42DFF3-D59D-4ECC-8299-929C96C2EA14.jpeg42108487-D8B6-4FCD-9483-D637405DA767.jpeg08A2E264-0A9B-4FBE-8A60-3E1AF70DB0A4.jpeg

#27 39 days ago

Spent the weekend cleaning up more hacks. I ran all new wire for column 9, built new ground cables for 8DB, pulled out the original tie back and moved it to J108, etc.

I already need another big parts order to fix more stuff I’ve found. I’m going to run new wire for GI harness and coil/flasher power since these were previously cut. This guy loved to cut wire in random places and heat shrink it back together.

Let’s cut all these!!
F1B9D054-1CF6-4A67-BCAF-7E5E38DCFEA8.png

Cut these too? Sure why not
C0C57ED6-F075-4EF7-AC0D-C71810EA85A4.jpeg

#28 38 days ago

All the subway optos had a bunch of extra wire spliced in. No idea why since there was plenty of wire left...

A8183D19-05DD-477B-8AFF-CF0C47E3B7D4.jpeg

I cut all that out and put it back original...

44D1403C-1A9E-4BA6-9BDC-88E505650FB1.jpeg

#29 38 days ago

Subway opto harness before, with the extra mis-colored wire...

96ED5043-7C61-4B07-AE35-42EA85C1B80D.png

After cleaning it up...

B67F5B90-C494-4608-9A5B-A572E8D79B2D.jpeg

#30 38 days ago

https://www.moll.no/pinball/jsparts/STTNG.php

BOM for STTNG in tree format. Not sure who put this together but it is pure gold.

I was able to find the correct subway opto screws are 4106-01004-06

Raw BOM:
https://moll.no/pinball/parts/raw/Williams_1993_Star_Trek_The_Next_Generation_Parts_List.txt

#31 36 days ago

Ran new speaker wires to cabinet. Been replacing harness splices with correct connectors or running new wire. Under playfield almost done, then backbox.

These came from Mantis today... the supports are super nice

6B42F8B5-B58E-46C2-8B97-5051E76A9DFD.jpeg

#32 33 days ago

Got my order from Planetary. They screwed up a bunch of items. Wrong wire colors. So now I have another week of waiting for parts.

I did get the GI rewired in the lamp harness though, and fixed a half dozen other mic things.

So many splices...
F13A553F-400E-4207-8ECC-7A52DCD6967C.jpeg

Pulled all that out, ran all new GI wire from playfield to backbox.
97506312-F28B-4AF7-A7B5-9E5FEF9BD26A.jpeg

#33 33 days ago

New subway. Won’t replace till I do tear down.

999FCAA6-9BBA-4973-ACF6-60322E19645F.jpeg

#34 32 days ago

Lots more work done fixing harnesses. Sucks I have to wait on a Planetary order cause I’m almost to where I could turn the game back on.

Cleaned up right canon wiring:

Before... sloppy, wrong wire colors, terrible soldering...
57C45FA7-9D51-429B-ADB9-6070E6CFA576.jpeg

After...
4E3F5463-8464-4DD9-B66B-93A2200E00C0.jpeg

#35 31 days ago

FINALLY!! I found a picture of the opto harness out of the game. HEP has one in a restore he did 2006.

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album72/49_G?full=1

Now I can see how this is supposed to be routed and tied. Should be able to get it close enough to correct with this.

Still waiting on parts orders though. I might go pull Flash Gordon out of storage and start working on that. Rather have two projects going than sit idle waiting on parts.

#36 31 days ago

Nevermind, I’m an idiot. That picture is only the solenoid harness.

I think no picture of the STTNG opto harness outside of the game exists! Guess I will just make it up.

It is interesting though the game Chris restored also has different opto harness routing, so that harness design was revised at some point at the factory.

#37 28 days ago

Still at a standstill.

I had several problems with my last Planetary order and still waiting to hear back on the ticket I opened Monday. Feels bad since I spent $400 with them.

I pulled my Flash Gordon project out of storage to keep me busy while I wait.

#38 28 days ago

Great thread to follow.

#39 23 days ago

Planetary said they are shipping out my parts, although I don't have a shipping notice. Doubt I will order from PPS anymore, everything takes too long and the service is sketchy.

Meanwhile I finally_ got a good picture of the opto harness. I randomly messaged another Pinsider about his STTNG restore thread and he had this picture. This is the first time I've seen how the individual wires are routed and where the zip ties belong. So as soon as the PPS order gets here I can finish harness repairs and turn the game back on. And then tear it apart.

Screenshot_179.png

#40 23 days ago

I need to order STTNG cabinet decals soon. If anyone has suggestions for who makes nice ones I would love to hear it.

I'm going with original WMS art on the cab. I wonder how it would look in high gloss? Trying to find some pictures of that.

#41 22 days ago

Did a couple random things. Cleaned up the drop target wiring in the harness...

29A3C916-39C1-4EE7-8295-59744FC65B6B.jpeg

and replaced with a connector.
D5E9E868-8A47-42E3-9ED9-496ADAEE9187.jpeg

#42 22 days ago

Guess this needs powdercoated. Kind of has a cool worn look to it though. If the theme was Star Wars I would definitely just shoot some clear and leave it as is.

FFDEBEE3-D4C1-4970-B516-308DB0684E60.jpeg

#43 16 days ago

Got smashed by Hurricane Ida. No power, water, internet. Phone service is spotty. The bayou behind my house raised a good 3 feet and my driveway was impassible. Today is first day I was able to leave home. Went on a road trip to find more gas for the generator and also food. Had to drive half an hour away and wait an hour in line for gas but got 20 gallons. Very very thankful. That will last about four days. Also found food and beer.

Worst part of all this, my parts order got delayed again.

I wonder how many pinball machines died in this storm.

1 week later
#44 8 days ago

Planetary screwed up my order again. Told me they would ship the items with another order 8/24. Picked it up today... items were not in the box. They said they will ship it again. If it’s not right this time it’s chargeback time.

I did get the wire I need to finish the opto harness. Working on that next and rebuilding the trough opto connectors (because they were done sloppy and also missing ramps).

#45 8 days ago

Also ordering this stuff to get ready for cabinet refurb...

- new next gen cabinet decals
- new translite
- new speaker panel
- new WPC STICKERS
- mirror blades

#46 5 days ago

Time to clean up this rats nest around the opto board

5F3E1F25-B1C3-4F43-9A57-906E4BEDB66E.jpeg

8EB99D1E-8774-41EF-96AC-429C37C49159.jpeg

#47 5 days ago

Re-pinned all 40 pins for the optos. Cleaned up the wire lengths and routing.

18E7F9CA-A1DD-4106-98E3-89A3850CB274.jpeg6B8D5B6E-C3EA-4BD7-BA1F-2AFC01C00856.jpeg

#48 5 days ago

Took apart the wire harness, completely re-routed all the wiring, got everything tied back up tight.

Added all new wire for the subway optos so it will reach the right side of the playfield like most other STTNGs are wired.

0399EE9C-7229-4AE1-B11E-C63383BFD146.jpeg

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#49 4 days ago

A blind person changed the trough opto connectors. The connectors were zip tied to the board because they were loose due to no ramps. Changed these, cleaned up wiring, replaced with connectors that have ramps.

Rats nest before...
FD529891-8DCA-4C61-92C8-76358F20B6E6.jpeg

Snip snip...
38B64973-DB1B-455C-9374-5E8C8E96697A.jpeg

After...
DC37D63D-DF99-4E80-8082-0C7188BEDCFC.jpeg

#50 4 days ago

Building a new coil harness for subway coils...

07AF42C6-0808-487A-9CD4-DFA5303A15F7.jpeg

Done repairing all the subway harnesses!
5BB88006-F369-43D2-88AA-07CBBD31F91C.jpeg

Waiting on Planetary to get my order straight and then I can finish up.

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