(Topic ID: 253552)

STTNG slam tilt stuck closed


By epeabs

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by epeabs
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 5 months ago

    I know this has been covered in numerous posts here and there. But all of it I have read hasn't helped so far. This is on STTNG. Everything was working perfectly. DMD, gameplay, VUKs, audio. I slid it eight feet away on the leg levelers. There was a small amount of vibration due to the leg levelers on my concrete floor. Once in the new location I turned it on and the DMD says "slam tilt switch is stuck closed". I have read everything about this situation. So far haven't been able to track down the gremlin. Many times right now if I hit a flipper button or hit the coin door switches, it will reset the machine. I have reseated all the connections, ribbon cables, and have confirmed the switches are not stuck closed. I have also switched out the coin door switches with known working ones, and that did not correct the issue. With the error showing on the DMD, I can activate a coin switch or press both flippers and the game most of the time will shut down and reset, with the same error showing upon startup. I have tested all the diodes on the board that the coin door connects to and they all test correct (not sure if this would cause this issue or not). Any thoughts out there after a similar situation or possible cure?

    #2 5 months ago

    Think you could get more help if you posted some pic's of the tilt switch's

    #3 5 months ago
    Quoted from epeabs:

    confirmed the switches are not stuck closed.

    How many SLAM tilt switches are installed? You typically don't need any for home use. If it's a normally open switch just unplug it.

    #4 5 months ago

    There are two tilt slam switches installed. One on the coin door and one on the floor to the left of the cash box. If I unplug either one of them or both, the DMD still reads the same error. Both switches are pulled apart and not touching.

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    #5 5 months ago

    I have the same issue here. It’s not the coin door or the switch in the cabinet. I narrowed it down to the right inlane and Outlane switch. Diodes fine. Replaced both switches. Still a problem but only when the ball goes in one of those lanes.

    #6 5 months ago
    Quoted from Skyemont:

    Diodes fine. Replaced both switches.

    Why not replace the 0.10 diode at the same time just for posterity sake?

    #7 5 months ago
    Quoted from Skyemont:

    Still a problem but only when the ball goes in one of those lanes.

    Slam tilt is part of your switch matrix. A problem at one switch can cause issues at another switch.

    Switch wired wrong, diode on backwards, a short to switch lugs or switch wiring.

    LTG : )

    1 week later
    #8 5 months ago

    My issue has now changed. I have rebuilt a couple of connectors in the backbox because I found a couple wires broken at a couple connectors. I swapped out a known working T2 power/driver board because I had a cap that was suspect on mine. When I turned the machine one, I had smoke from under the playfield. Upon investigating, I found the White/Red wires coming from transformer had begun to melt. The wires were compromised all the way to the connector in the backbox, as well as from the connectors in the cabinet to the high power "coin door" switch. Not sure why this happened, I didn't find anything stuck behind the board or anything else apparent. I have rebuilt that portion of the wiring harness, gone through my power/driver board and reinstalled. Upon turning the machine back on (with a fire extinguisher ready) the slam tilt message is gone, but I wasn't getting "high power" on the power/driver board. Again, not seeing anything jump at me. But, while sliding the playfield back in, the DMD changed to "coin door is open" which it was. I was then able to load balls and start a game, as well as use the coin door switches. During the game, the catapult was launching two balls instead of one, and the flippers seemed very weak. I pulled the trough boards out, rebuilt one suspect connector and cleaned the opto's. I double checked my fuses on the Fliptronic board, and fuse F902 was bad. I replaced the fuse, turned the game on, and again have no high power on the power/driver board. I have tugged, pushed, and pulled the wiring harness in the back of the cabinet as it goes into the backbox because those were the wires I bumped while sliding in the playfield, but no change. So currently, the CPU boots properly, with one bong at the end of startup, the DMD shows the Enterprises and scores, etc. But the coin door switches do not work and I can't start a game. I'm obviously getting frustrated trying to get this game consistent. Any other thought?

    #9 5 months ago
    Quoted from epeabs:

    while sliding the playfield back in, the DMD changed to "coin door is open"

    Why might your coin door open switch be registering intermittently? Flaky switch, break in a wire, connector issue, board header pins, alkaline damage?

    #10 5 months ago

    Sounds like you are having all kinds of issues. Perhaps let's start with the simple stuff. What are the voltages on the power driver board test points? Are they all in spec?

    #11 5 months ago
    Quoted from arolden:

    Sounds like you are having all kinds of issues. Perhaps let's start with the simple stuff. What are the voltages on the power driver board test points? Are they all in spec?

    Picture of the board is how the LEDs are currently lit. Again at this point it acts as if the coin door is open and it's not. Current voltages at test points are shown as well.

    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    Why might your coin door open switch be registering intermittently? Flaky switch, break in a wire, connector issue, board header pins, alkaline damage?

    I've tried a known working switch, don't find any wire breaks, connectors seems fine. I've had the boards out but don't see signs of broken joints or alkaline damage.
    On the power driver board, I have checked all the tip 36's, tip 107's, and tip 102's as well as all the corresponding IN4004 diodes. I have replaced C30, C11 and C5 caps. And bench tested Bridge rectifiers 1 through 5, didn't find anything seemed out of whack. I've also checked D1 and D2 on the board, and checked continuity from Q2 through J114 connector.

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    #12 5 months ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    Why might your coin door open switch be registering intermittently?

    Quoted from epeabs:

    I've tried a known working switch, don't find any wire breaks, connectors seems fine. I've had the boards out but don't see signs of broken joints or alkaline damage.

    It's #22 on your switch matrix. Try disconnecting J-209 and J-207 on the CPU and using jumpers to ground pin 2. If it works perfectly using jumpers you know the board isn't the problem.

    #13 5 months ago
    Quoted from arolden:

    What are the voltages on the power driver board test points? Are they all in spec?

    This is always a great place to start!

    You have lost your +18V (TP8) Since the regulated +12V (TP3) is created from the +18V, fixing the 18V (Controlled Lamps) should also fix the +12V regulared (Switch Matrix). Your +12V Unregulated is also very low at TP1.

    Check F114

    #14 5 months ago
    Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

    It's #22 on your switch matrix. Try disconnecting J-209 and J-207 on the CPU and using jumpers to ground pin 2. If it works perfectly using jumpers you know the board isn't the problem.

    Removed connector j209 and connector j207 and grounded both pin two's with no change.

    Quoted from Pin_Guy:

    This is always a great place to start!
    You have lost your +18V (TP8) Since the regulated +12V (TP3) is created from the +18V, fixing the 18V (Controlled Lamps) should also fix the +12V regulared (Switch Matrix). Your +12V Unregulated is also very low at TP1.
    Check F114

    I have removed fuse 114 and checked continuity and it is fine.

    #15 5 months ago

    I have tested both diodes D1 and D2 with the machine off they both check okay. But checking voltage at D1 and D2 on the banded side with machine on, I'm not getting approximately 17.4 volts at D1 or approximately 16.4 volt at D2. I'm getting millivolts only.

    #16 5 months ago

    If you are positive F114 is fine, disconnect J101 and test BR1 using the procedure provided by zaza at the link below:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-post-playfield-swap-issues#post-2475440

    Best part about checking it this way is you don't have to remove the Power Driver Board from the game

    #17 5 months ago

    I just tested using that method. And I come up with first test and third test as open. I will replace that bridge rectifier and report back.

    #18 5 months ago

    This is what I have in stock. Will this work?

    20191027_155028 (resized).jpg
    #19 5 months ago

    Yep, that will work fine

    #20 5 months ago

    I just switched out BR 1 and 2 as well as C7 and C6 while I was right there. Installed the driver board and yes, things seem to be working properly. Now to track down my trough up opto which seems to be hanging up. Thank you for that direction.

    Quoted from Pin_Guy:

    If you are positive F114 is fine, disconnect J101 and test BR1 using the procedure provided by zaza at the link below:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-post-playfield-swap-issues#post-2475440
    Best part about checking it this way is you don't have to remove the Power Driver Board from the game

    #21 5 months ago

    I rechecked my test point voltages on the power driver board. Still thinking my test point 1 voltage is a lot lower than it should be. What should I be searching for now?

    20191027_200031 (resized).jpg
    #22 5 months ago

    Thinking when I replaced the C30 cap last week, I may have compromised the through hole. I'm going to pull it and install a stitch to be safe.

    1 week later
    #23 4 months ago

    This machine has come full circle in the last week. I did install a couple solder stitches on the board and now have well over 13 volts on TP1. I ended up replacing a full set of trough opto boards, redid the molex connectors and fixed a hack on one of the connectors. I had to replace two individual optos on the left gun VUK. Everything now seems to be working properly and playing well.

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