(Topic ID: 183713)

STTNG Right Popper Trouble


By Plunger069

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Fytr
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

Need some help on the right cannon ball popper on my Star Trek the Next Generation. The cannon is lined up with the rail, but the VUK throws the ball up so hard that it hits the rail and bounces off the side into the right outline. I checked the coil and it is the same as the left side. The left side works fine. Anyone else have experience with this?

#2 2 years ago

I'm going to bump this because I've owned a bunch of STTNG's through the years, and every single one did something similar.

Besides downgrading the coil, how do you get the ball to slow down enough not to skip the rail?

#3 2 years ago

It seems like all STTNGs do this to some degree. Can the coil be moved back a little bit?

#4 2 years ago

I have checked the alignment of the coil and it seems to be ok. I have an idea. Since the ball always seems to fall off the outlane side, I will install the soft side of a small Velcro patch inside the chute on the right hand side. Maybe it will straighten the ball out enough to keep it in line with the rail. I will post my findings later.

#5 2 years ago

Funny. I just posted about this exact topic on the sttng club thread. Electrical tape inside the chute was also mentioned (to soak some of the ball's momentum).

#6 2 years ago

On a side note, I am new to pinside and got my STTNG last week. How do I join the club?

#7 2 years ago

Maybe something can be 3d printed that screws onto the habitrail and makes it a little taller.

#8 2 years ago

Oh, it's just a forum thread located here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club

#9 2 years ago

Get some sticky backed velcro and stick the loop side inside the vuk at the bend. It'll kill the speed.

#10 2 years ago

Thanks for the suggestions. I did use Velcro pads and lined the top and sides of both VUK chutes. Works like a charm. Ball is much quieter exiting the chutes and stays in control on its way to the cannons.

#11 2 years ago

I'm sure it would, but wouldn't that also be like applying sand paper to the balls every time they pop up?

Quoted from urbanledge:

Get some sticky backed velcro and stick the loop side inside the vuk at the bend. It'll kill the speed.

#13 2 years ago

I used the soft side of the Velcro. I played a few games to test it out, and will also move the coil bracket down a bit. The ball never fell off the rail, but it still came out of the chute very fast. The Velcro or any other material you use will help guide the ball straight to the rail instead of bouncing wildly around the chute. So in summary IMO there are 2 things that will help.
1. Adjust the coil bracket down a small amount to lessen the force against the rail and cannon.
2. Line the inside top and sides of the chute with the soft side of the Velcro pads. This will act as a guide for the ball to better line up with the rail.

#14 2 years ago

I think the best thing to try would be to get the next coil down power wise. Assuming it can still reliably get the ball to the top side of the playfield, hopefully that would take enough off the power to get it into the gun.

That's what I'm going to try.

Quoted from Plunger069:

I used the soft side of the Velcro. I played a few games to test it out, and will also move the coil bracket down a bit. The ball never fell off the rail, but it still came out of the chute very fast. The Velcro or any other material you use will help guide the ball straight to the rail instead of bouncing wildly around the chute. So in summary IMO there are 2 things that will help.
1. Adjust the coil bracket down a small amount to lessen the force against the rail and cannon.
2. Line the inside top and sides of the chute with the soft side of the Velcro pads. This will act as a guide for the ball to better line up with the rail.

#15 2 years ago

I also believe the long term solution is to downsize the coil. Be sure to let us know if that works.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I'm sure it would, but wouldn't that also be like applying sand paper to the balls every time they pop up?

Velcro is softer than a hardened steel ball so so no, it wouldn't be like applying sandpaper.

#17 2 years ago

It's textured. Hardened steel is smooth, velcro is rough. It's not about being "soft" or "hard."

Quoted from urbanledge:

Velcro is softer than a hardened steel ball so so no, it wouldn't be like applying sandpaper.

1 month later
#18 2 years ago

Here is how I ended up "fixing" this. I didn't go the route of replacing the coil, even when I found something weaker, I didn't want to have to deal with that being too weak etc.

At the end of the day, I determined that the best way to take some power off the VUK was to "shorten" the length of the plunger. I wrapped about 20 layers of insulated tape around the coil stop. With the plunger up a little higher, it won't hit the ball with as much force.

While to me the ball seemed to be kicked up at the same velocity, it took just enough force off of it so that 10 out of 10 times it didn't hop off the habitrail and it loaded the cannon correctly.

The tape shouldn't wear, the plunger is only coming down with as much force as the spring gives it.

I just didn't like the idea of modifying anything ball touches. Insulated tape, with the force of the ball hitting it, seems like it could wear. And, other means of something directly slowing the ball down just doesn't seem ideal to me.

Anyway, my two cents, and in my opinion, the best, simplest, and easiest way to deal with this issue.

#19 2 years ago

Why not just slide the coil up the bracket a little bit? There are slots in the bracket that allow for this, it effectively shortens the length the plunger travels, is easily done and doesn't require any kind of tape that will leave behind sticky residue if you go to remove it. I've done this countless times on VUKs in many games (Moat eject on MM, the VUK on CV, both left VUKs on STTNG, etc.).

#20 2 years ago

I did. The ball was still popping out into the outline.

Quoted from bobukcat:

Why not just slide the coil up the bracket a little bit?

#21 2 years ago

I had the same issue on mine. Tried moving the coil lower to introduce some slack but still wasn't 100% and would sometimes fall back down the popper as well. Plus I really didn't like the way coil jumped because of the slack, bound to cause problems with wires breaking off, etc.

What worked for me was putting a piece of gorilla tape (really strong duct tape) inside the popper about 4 inches deep from the exit hole. Now the ball reliably ends up in the gun and is much quieter too. Sometimes the simplest solution is also the best.

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