As said above cant figure it out. Doesn't fire in solenoid test but shows its running. Has the same voltage as other coils so I assume its getting power. I checked the wires and also switched the Power Driver board. What do I do now?
As said above cant figure it out. Doesn't fire in solenoid test but shows its running. Has the same voltage as other coils so I assume its getting power. I checked the wires and also switched the Power Driver board. What do I do now?
So if it works fine during a game, why worry about it?
mine pulses so quickly some coils don't always fire quick enough to see.
your driver board provide ground to coil, so yes you could still see +voltage at coil but the ground wire could be internally broken. That's why I sugested replacing wiring harness to guns
Would the wiring harness to the guns have anything to do with the popper? Ill double check the wires.
OK, I'm officially confused. you started out with right gun popper? are you referring to the sling shot under the gun?
"STTNG Right gun popper solenoid " + "The guns work fine if you put a ball in them. " + "It doesnt work at all." = I am confused also.
I 'think' you are talking about the right KICKER (thing under the cannon behind the rubber), nothing to do with cannon. Correct?
so if you put a ball in the cannon, it will rotate and you can shoot out the ball? or is it it won't fire ball out of cannon
Yes #04 solenoid right gun popper. Youre thinking of the shooter solenoid. The popper shoots it up to the shooter. They are all numbered in the manual.
Quoted from wdennie:so if you put a ball in the cannon, it will rotate and you can shoot out the ball? or is it it won't fire ball out of cannon
Ok now I get it.
have you tried, using a wire from the ground strap to the smallest wire on the coil, ( bigger wire is the + voltage) to see if the coil works?
just briefly tap coil with ground wire. you might just have a bad coil. do you get voltage readings on both coil posts?
Well, for both cases check the connections to the coil itself, but I guess you've already done that. Check/replace the (driver)transistors, they might not work.
The cannons are notorious for intermittent cable loom breaks, its always a good idea to replace the originals with better ones, even if they still work.
Yes to voltage on both posts and the connection is good. The coil manually moves up and down just fine.
Ok so you need to back track the ground to coil wire back to the driver board, either you have a bad wire connection at the J whatever plug,
on driver board, or a broken wire somehere, or a bad Q transistor driver. like freebee sugest. They normal lock on when they go bad, but not always
Quoted from joekiss:The power driver board is good. Any other boards to check?
Nope. The driver provides both the source and the return path. I didn't see above, but did the solenoid fire when you grounded the return side?
I'm fairly certain the problem is going to be the Violet-Yellow wire... Yes, both sides are violet-yellow. Since this is the only one that doesn't work, take a very close look at J130-5.
Quoted from joekiss:Explain please?
The 50V for this coil is generated on the power driver, it leaves the driver on J107-3 (Violet-yellow wire) to power this and half a dozen other things. the other side of the coil returns to the power driver on J130-5 (Violet-Yellow wire) where its turned on by transistor Q76 to complete the path.
Quoted from FreeBee:The cannons are notorious for intermittent cable loom breaks,
Part of the confusion is he is NOT talking about the cannon itself. What he is talking about is the VUK (Vertical UpKicker AKA: Popper) from the subway that LOADS the cannon. Took me this many posts to figure that out.
This also means it could be the opto sensor down in the subway that tells the CPU that the VUK is loaded (assuming the VUK does work in selftest).
Yea he said in coil test it didn't work, sounded to me like a bad connection somewhere or bad tip102 on the driver board.
Quoted from wdennie:bad connection somewhere or bad tip102 on the driver board.
I agree. My gut says connection 1st, Tip 2nd.
Quoted from Patofnaud:This also means it could be the opto sensor down in the subway that tells the CPU that the VUK is loaded
There are no optos in the subway that perform this function, all the VUK's have their own optos. No opto would ever prevent a coil from firing from the solenoid test menu.
Quoted from wdennie:or bad tip102 on the driver board.
If this is a tip102 I have some bad diagrams
Quoted from Pin_Guy:No opto would ever prevent a coil from firing from the solenoid test menu.
What I said was we are not talking about the cannon, we are talking about the VUK. And in that context I stated that it could even be the opto (whether in the subway or on the VUK itself is minutia) and AFTER that it was determined/confirmed the VUK was not failing in selftest at which point I agreed it was a broke wire or driver.
Finally worked on it. Switched driver boards-same problem. Checked the connection from J130-1 to J130-5 all is good. Could it possibly be a bad coil?
Did you ohm out the coil?
Does it look bad?
Coils do not just go bad and NOT read open or shorted. Ohm it out, compare it to one of the other VUK's.
Quoted from Patofnaud:Ohm it out
This coil should measure 4.1 ohms. But if you have your 50V on both sides, you already know its good.
Quoted from joekiss:Checked the connection from J130-1 to J130-5 all is good.
Do you have +50V on J130-5? There is also a multipin connector that all the VUK wires go through and if you aren't getting your 50V at J130-5 then this connector is going to be the next thing to look at ... I'm going to assume the coil is good since you checked it a few days ago.
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