(Topic ID: 73020)

STTNG restore: Need help with 2 issues

By ksmmspt

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 years ago by ksmmspt
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#1 10 years ago

Hello all: My restoration of my STTNG is coming along nicely. I powered up the machine for the first time in about 10 years and I have at least 2 problems that I have identified.

First: Both of my cannons seem to rotate properly but are not lined up properly. Neither point directly at the wire loading ramp. How do you adjust the home position on the cannons?

Second: I have a problem with balls continuing to be loaded into the launcher and not being recognized in the trough. I did install new great lakes modular boards as the old boards looked like they have been through a war zone. I would like to replace the female connector on the emitter board as the operator has soldered the wires to the current connector which I'm guessing doesn't work too well with the new boards. Can anyone tell me what size and type of connector I need to get and how the wiring should be to each pin? Thanks for any and all help!!

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#6 10 years ago

Thanks everyone! Thanks, Zitt for the connector info. I like Big Daddy for my connectors and crimps so I just placed an order to do the connectors for both boards. Can you or someone else take a pic of the 5 pin connector for the emitter board so that I know which wire goes to each pin?

Thanks Atomicboy, it appears that I have the tie-back to the drop target coil on my machine, but I will watch this after I replace the connectors to see if problems arise.

Also, it appears that both of my cannons do not rotate far enough toward the wire loading ramps. How do I adjust them to line up properly prior to setting the home switch? If that makes sense...

TY Pinfever. I'll check functionality of the boards after I replace the connectors. I know they need replacing...

#12 10 years ago

Ok, I was able to get the cannons lined up and they are working! I checked my trough boards and they have all green lights on the great lakes boards. Went through switch edge tests on all optos and they seem to all be working. I fired up and played a few games. Seemed to work well for about 3 games then I noticed when selecting Launch a probe, it would just send the ball out to the left flipper and skip the launch a probe part. Then when the game ended, it kept loading a ball and sending it up the playfield. It would be returned to the left flipper, then the trough and would just keep cycling forever. I did clean all optos when I replaced the subway ramp, but I'm guessing a lot of them are old and could be having intermittent problems. Zitt: I may have to replace some optos....

I also noticed that in the general illumination tests, none of the playfield 1 lights were functioning. Any suggestions on what to check here?

Also, neither of the return lane "magnet" switches were working. What should I check here?

#15 10 years ago

Thanks Zitt, I'll try that tonight...never worked on eddys before.

Atomicboy: I will rerun the divertor test, but I'm almost positive that both fired earlier during the test. I also have not cleaned the optos on the left upkicker to the cannon and to the lane return so I'll do that and see if that helps. I'll report back tonight....work just takes up too much pinball time!!

#17 10 years ago

OK, I did the divertor tests and sure enough, the right divertor was not adjusted properly and was preventing the ball from going to the right cannon. A small adjustment and it was working again. I also adjusted the eddy switches and they worked well for several games until the right one decided to stop working...raised the playfield and the led was lit. Readjusted and all is well again.

Played about 20 games with my boys and occasionally had a ball here and there that would drain and not be recognized. But it would be recognized after a ball was kicked out and that one drained. So I guess I have an intermittant problem. Not a big deal right now.

Anybody have any thoughts on the playfield 1 lights not working and what to check? Possible poor connection??

Thanks so much for all the help! Love this machine....it's sooo hard!!

#19 10 years ago

When performing the general illumination test, there are several lights tied into a category named playfield 1. There is also playfield 2, which works fine. No lights are lit during the test for playfield 1.

#24 10 years ago

Ok, update on the GI problem. Was a blown fuse J106. Replaced it and the GI lights are back up. However, after replacing this, I played a game and was having a good one until I hit both flippers at the same time and the game reset! Started a new game and repeated the problem. I'm guessing this is a documented problem as well...
Anybody got some ideas here??

Pezpunk: I've been trying to get the delta ramp divertor dialed in to not restrict smooth ball flow onto the wire ramp. Boy am I having to tighten the stew out of those allen screws!

#29 10 years ago

Well I read through the pinwiki instructions. I read where if the game resets in the first 30 minutes of turning it on, the thermistor could be bad. I went ahead and turned the machine on and let it warmup for about 45 min. Sure enough, the machine doesn't reset. I guess I need a new thermistor.

#30 10 years ago

I also checked the voltages at the driver board, which was 4.98VDC and compared them to the cpu board, which was 4.69 VDC. Looks like I need to redo the connectors at J210 and J114.

Thanks Atomicboy....do you know the size of molex (0.156?) and what do you do with the Z connector? Do you replace the male ends or just the female ends? Thanks for everyone's help!!

#32 10 years ago

Thanks again, Atomicboy, for the great info. I have repinned a GI connector on my Bally Star Trek with trifurcon pins before and have a crimp tool. I will go ahead and order the molex connectors to redo all of those areas mentioned. How do you attack the Z connector? Do you eliminate it and solder the wires together or redo the connector?

Amazingly, it hasn't reset since I've posted last but I have warmed the machine up 45 minutes prior to playing...thermistor.

#34 10 years ago

The voltage was measured well after 45 minutes. I didn't measure it on cold startup. I may do that tonight for the heck of it.

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