(Topic ID: 60660)

STTNG Resetting When You Push Right Flipper. Please Help

By Xanathar

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by arolden
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

#1 8 years ago

When in test mode flipper coil test is fine. Does not reset. All pass selenoid test

When playing game just rolling ball around field manually machine does not reset.

Can push Left flipper all day in game mode with no issue. Both flipper function fine in HOLODECK simulations.

As soon as you push the right flipper the system re-boots.

Have checked the diodes on both flippers on the right side ( lower and mid playfiled ) and they seem intact.

Looking for suggestions on where to look next

Thanks

Post edited by The_Dude_Abides : Please do not use all caps in thread headers.

#3 8 years ago

The one I just picked up was doing the same thing. Totally crazy. There was this metal.....thing..like spring steel...coming off the cabinet that was touching the nut on the flipper button. Apparently it was causing some kind of short because I covered the end of it with electrical tape and it hasn't happened again. I'll take a pic and post it when I get home. Totally nuts.

#4 8 years ago

Salut,

Just search for "Reset" in the forum and you will find a lot of posts for the same problem. It is quite common.

Normally it is related to a weak 5V supply for the CPU. If this power falls below a critic level, the machine resets to prevent any damage.
There are several possible reason for this.
Bad connectors, bad bridge rectifiers, capacitors or voltage regulators on the PDB, etc.

You will find all you need in the forum.

#6 8 years ago

Simple thing to try first start a game and tap on the power box in the cab with a screwdriver handle if the game resets it is a loose connection or the varistor.
I have has two games so far with bad varistors that had the cap and bridge changed for no reason.

#7 8 years ago

My Addams Family was doing this when I had our central air on, but wall socket level was just fine on my multimeter.

I literally unhooked, and then reseated, every connector in the pin just in case a loose connection was causing a voltage dip.

It has worked perfectly ever since.

Cheers,
Greg

#8 8 years ago

A friend of mine was having a similar issue with his TZ, and it turned out to be a loose diode on one of the flipper coils. Worthing checking, anyway...

#9 8 years ago

The pinball ninja has a video of this fix I'm sure.

#10 8 years ago

Follow Patofnaud

All other suggestions will have it's turn when you work down that list.

Good Luck!

#11 8 years ago

Here is what I have so far based on Pinwiki tests

BR2 test 9.7v
TP2 Test 4.989v
Game rom / watchdog test 4.921

Reseated all connector according to document. Nothing appears fried or scorched

Have to yet test capacitors at C5. ( Ran out of time for the evening )

I will remove the board tomorrow

#12 8 years ago

+2

This section has been rewritten recently and is very comprehensive. It is excellent. The reason there are so many things to check is because there are so many things that can cause the resets.

This is one of the hardest things to troubleshoot in pinball IMHO. Good luck and don't give up. Check everything.

#13 8 years ago

Check the "Z" connector coming off of the driver board at J114. If you are unfamiliar with this "Z" connector, it is like a coupler/splitter used to split the power so they could drive the aux 8-driver board. If you can disconnect the plugs from the Z connector and the reconnect them tightly and the flipper works then, that is your problem. This is only a temporary fix. You should replace the connector at J114 and crimp the two wires together in the connector with Trifurcon pins and eliminate the "Z" . This fixed mine right up. I got this info from the Pinball Ninja site which I highly recommend.

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from Xanathar:

Here is what I have so far based on Pinwiki tests
BR2 test 9.7v
TP2 Test 4.989v
Game rom / watchdog test 4.921
Reseated all connector according to document. Nothing appears fried or scorched
Have to yet test capacitors at C5. ( Ran out of time for the evening )
I will remove the board tomorrow

I would say that proves that BR2 is good. Continue going through that checklist on Pinwiki.
Keep hunting, you will find it!!!

#15 8 years ago

This problem is like chasing a ghost. I started keeping a log when I had the problem. Here's what I did (hope this helps you):

How I did troubleshooting on Star Trek The Next Generation (SSTNG) Reset Problem

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

5/13/2012
Verified line voltage: @wall=120.2; @svc with power off=120.2; @svc with power on=119.7 (4.6.2)
Took off power/driver board (this ensures good ground connections when board is mounted back in place. (4.6.3)
Checked for cracked header pins: examined J101, J102, J103 and LM323K (Q1). Q1 looked crystalized, so I reflowed it. (4.6.4)
Checked for two diodes on flippers. Made sure they were mounted correctly and were soldered in well. (4.6.5)
Checked connections between the transformer secondary power/driver board. This is the 15 pin cube of wires near the bottom cabinet speaker. (4.6.6)
Checked for poor connection at J101 on pwer/driver board. I had disconnected and reconnected this when removing and reinstalling the power/driver board. (4.6.7)
At this point I turned the game on and left it on for a long time. Tested lots of flipper activity. No resets!!!
6/1/2012
I replaced a burned out 555 bulb on center shields and resets returned.
I checked out the flippers. Replaced diodes on left flipper. Also, cleaned eos switch contacts on all three flippers. Reflowed all three flippers. Still had resets. (4.6.5)
Checked connections between the transformer secondary power/driver board. This is the 15 pin cube of wires near the bottom cabinet speaker. (4.6.6)
Reseated J101 (4.6.7)
Tested voltage on power driver board to be 4.85vdc. COM lead on grounding strap in backbox, POS lead on driver board at T2. (4.6.8.a)
Reseated z connector off of J114 (4.6.8.c) After that so far no resets. I'm still suspicious!
12/11/2012
After installing Mantis ramp protectors resets started happening again. I reseated z connector off of J114 and reseated J101. That fixed it!

That's my log of fixes. Seems to be most likely z connector.

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from action76:

You should replace the connector at J114 and crimp the two wires together in the connector with Trifurcon pins and eliminate the "Z" .

Or just solder them together, which I've seen Ninja do.

#17 8 years ago

On any reset for flippers, I always start with checking the 5v from the driver, through the driver connector (back end of the IDC), then the Z (if applicable), then the back and of the cpu 5v connector, then the 5v on the CPU - BEFORE disconnecting a thing. Drops in connectors are the main problem, and this gives you a point where there is an issue usually.

Reseating which seems to correct the issue is only temporary. After this I check the wall voltage, I look to br2 and it's cap, sometimes the power cord (thin computer ones can cause this), and sometimes I have found the problem lies in the lower cab connections from the transformer.

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from Enaud:

After installing Mantis ramp protectors resets started happening again. I reseated z connector off of J114 and reseated J101. That fixed it!

OK here is the update

I did as Enaud suggested in his notes with the Z connector and it worked. Played about 50 games on it last night.

One thing I don't understand is why it worked. Didn't look loose or anyting like that. What cuases this?

#19 8 years ago

I believe over the years the pins can become tarnished are just don't make a solid connection and also the two connectors that plug into the z and the one on the board are IDC connectors which can also be problematic causing voltage drops when a load is put on them. Like I said in my earlier post, reseating is not a permanent solution. It WILL happen again at some point unless you eliminate that z.

#20 8 years ago

Wait the Ninja's fix was right, easy, and would have been days faster no way! Pinwiki is awsome I use it, but I look at the Ninja first.

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Wait the Ninja's fix was right, easy, and would have been days faster no way! Pinwiki is awsome I use it, but I look at the Ninja first.

Can you shoot me the link to the Ninja'a fix?

#22 8 years ago

You have to donate to http://www.pinrepair.com/ to gain access to Pinball Ninja.

3 years later
#23 4 years ago
Quoted from action76:

Check the "Z" connector coming off of the driver board at J114. If you are unfamiliar with this "Z" connector, it is like a coupler/splitter used to split the power so they could drive the aux 8-driver board. If you can disconnect the plugs from the Z connector and the reconnect them tightly and the flipper works then, that is your problem. This is only a temporary fix. You should replace the connector at J114 and crimp the two wires together in the connector with Trifurcon pins and eliminate the "Z" . This fixed mine right up. I got this info from the Pinball Ninja site which I highly recommend.

Bumping an old thread, but I started having this issue today and this is what fixed it!

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside