Problem, fuse 104 blowing as soon as I start a new game.

Things we checked;
Using 3A SB fuse
Checked 50v measured to 72v
Checked all solenoids 9 throug 16 with multi meter, shows ok.
Checked VCC shows 12v
5v to LS374 checked seems ok (resently changed)
Measured all TIP102, seems ok
Measured all 2N5401, seems ok
Measured all resistors, values seems ok
20v at TP7 missing (possibly unrealated)

Nobody?

Pin_Guy what the? I thought i deleted the duplicate post. Thanks for the heads up. Will be goung through the all replies after work.

Have been battling with this for months now.

Looks like the first post is in some kind of limbo, only this thread works.
Will try to move my answers and your posts here.

Don't know if the link from pin-guy works for everyone. It doesn't show up in the forum for me.

No, there is no diode on Sol 11. Would it help to add this with cathodeside on the violet-orange side? And if so, what type of diode? Would a 1N400x suffice?

Not sure how to do this but I have a friend who does. Should we try pin-guy's diode on sol11 first before we do this? No fuse blow until I hit the start game button.
Also the flashers doesn't work. Something with the 20v. But thought we should get the game to work first.
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The fuse holds until i start the game. Also if j127 is disconnected the game "plays"(just without sol9-16)
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We also tried connecting just j127-1. Not smart, the fuse didn't blow but borg kicker started smoking. Our thought was going through each sol to see when the fuse blew, but too much power went to the sol and it didn't release.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The one thing I don't see mentioned here is the ribbon cable, have you tried reseating, or flipping over the ribbon cable between the MPU and PDB?

Before we check q58 we wanted to try flipping the ribbon j113. It had some strange effects. The high power cutoff stopped working, and the flippers worked even with the coin door open. Now we will check the ribbon with a multimeter.

(a little later)
On the ribbon cable pin33 might have faulty wiring. But we don't think this would case the fuse to blow.

Replaced q58 and refreshed solder on a condenser.
Got error message on slam tilt swich. Opened but did nothing.

Now we lost 50v 20v and have 8v on the 12v.
C-DMD and all lamps missing.
Found another condenser had loosened.

My game has two interlocks on the coin door.
I will next time I can work on it again, go over all solder.

history:
When I got my Color DMD it did not work at first. So I replaced almost all rectifiers(BR1 to BR5) and condencers(C30-C11).
Then everything was fine for a couple of plays. But then it started to act funny, it sometimes gave me two balls. It was the steepnes of my pin doing it.
Since I had extra condencers I took out the board once more and also replaced C5. But forgot WHITE/GRD(i think it is j111).
After that it acted funny again. So after a lot of measuring we found error in U3 so we replaced it.
After U20 was replaced it still did not work, that was when f104 started to blow. And we had no 20v, but had 12v and 50v.
Thats when we posted and started doing the things abowe.

Update. It now works. I wrote a long post on what we did, but when I hit post it all disappeared.

But yea. It works now.