(Topic ID: 128658)

ST:TNG post playfield swap issues

By NoTellin

8 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by zaza
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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Measure BR1.gif
#1 8 years ago

Any help or direction is greatly appreciated!!! I recently bought and replaced the PF in my ST:TNG. (looks great!) I fired it up and it posted a few shorts. It was then in the attract mode and seemed stable. I was in awe of the new PF and LED's and literally stared at it for a long three minutes. Then it went down. So now, when attempting to turn on the game, it blows the Power Driver Board fuse 114. I have disconnected almost everything from under the PF and even tried to boot with different things disconnected from the PDB...solenoid connections, High power / low power... So I'm suspecting that one of the original shorts caused something on the PDB to fry and the result is the fuse 114 blowing every time... My issue, A) I'm not sure where to start diagnosing the board and B) I can't get back to the Error log to see the short call outs. Stuck! I have a WMS IJ with the same Power Driver Board but I'm not willing to be totally without Pinball if both board fry...

Again, any starting point would be great!

Thanks!
Brad

#2 8 years ago

Brad, nice collection. IJ is on my list to find. As far as STTNG, I'm in the process of restoring, so I'm not any help. Bump to the top for the smart guys with the answers.

#3 8 years ago
Quoted from NoTellin:

A) I'm not sure where to start diagnosing the board

I would start with Bridge BR1.
If Fuse F114 blows there are multiple causes, but first want to know if this bridge rectifier is still ok.

-Machine 'OFF'
-replace F 114 with new one
-unplug J 101
-multimeter in 'diode' setting
Do the 4 measurements as in picture, polarity is important this way. It should read 4 x about 460mV
If one or more give (close to) zero mV, the bridge has a short.

When Br.1 seems ok, disconnect all lamp matrix connectors J133 to J138, re-connect J101 and power machine up. Is fuse ok and LED1 + LED6 ON ?
If Fuse doesn't blow, the lamp matrix has possible a short in wiring or lamps.
Measure BR1.gifMeasure BR1.gif

#4 8 years ago

Thanks ZAZA! I couldn't wait to get home at lunch. (HA) I had it wrong, it was fuse 113. Same result though, I completed the four measurements as you described and they each were close to 0.50 mV's. Looks like I start by replacing the bridge rectifiers?

Brad

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from NoTellin:

close to 0.50 mV's

Does your multimeter show mV or V in the display ?
500 mV = 0.50 V and that would be OK. And if you measured as in the picture, you measured Br1.
If not F114 but Fuse 113 has blown, then the 5Volt digital has a problem and you want to know about Br2.

#6 8 years ago

I appreciate you sticking with me! OK, how do I check BR2? It was definitely Fuse 113!

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from NoTellin:

how do I check BR2?

same as in the picture + description but:
- F114 ---------> F113
- TP8 ----------> TP2
- J101 4+7-----> J101 1+2

#8 8 years ago

Got it... Thank you!

1 week later
#9 8 years ago

Thanks ZAZA! The fun continues! SO, using your instructions and my WMS IJ as a comparison, I did indeed find that BR2 was faulty. I ordered / installed and verified correct voltages! Awesome right... So now, Fuse 103 is blowing immediately. Looking at the manual, page 49, it shows solenoids 24-28. Looking at the solenoid / flasher table, it's drive cable 107-6 (Red / white stripe) Am I correct in thinking that it could be anything connected to that Red / White wire? I've checked the soldered connections to all the flashers, even unplugged the Borg ship. Still blows.
Has anybody ever seen a flasher socket itself short out before? I can't find any connection issues and there aren't any diodes to check... Are there other Driver Board voltages I should be checking for?

Any further assistance / direction is greatly appreciated!! I'm having a family party in two weeks and would love to have both Pins up an running.
Thank You!
Brad

#10 8 years ago

Morning bump, sorry! (no shame - I honestly can't wait to play it again!) Any help or advice is appreciated!!

#11 8 years ago

No love today OK so maybe a more general question. For me to rule out each flasher, how can I test for a short? You have the power conductor, in this case Red / white and you have the drive conductor (Blue / Red - Blue / Org - Blue / Yel)... I can't turn on the machine as it blows the fuse and I can't just measure across the two connections as bulb should make it connected. Is it possible that the drive transistor is toast? I will try removing the J124 connection tonight but if the transistor goes to ground and completes the circuit, how do I diagnose the transistor?

Thanks!

#12 8 years ago

Was it something I said? I guess those that know would rather talk about whether or not they have a popcorn machine in their gameroom?! Well, I've successfully gotten it to turn on without throwing a fuse however I had 4 ground shorts.(my original problem) I have found two of them so far. The above issue still exists though, two of the flashers stay lit (Romulan) and the Red one on the right side of the backboard. Anybody have any advise on what to look for on this? Thanks!

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from NoTellin:

So now, Fuse 103 is blowing immediately. Looking at the manual, page 49, it shows solenoids 24-28. Looking at the solenoid / flasher table, it's drive cable 107-6 (Red / white stripe) Am I correct in thinking that it could be anything connected to that Red / White wire?

I'm afraid the manual is wrong about this.
Sol#25-28 are indeed flashers but they are not fused by F103.
F103 is for the solenoids 37 to 40, the ones controlled by the 8-driver located top right of the backbox, powerde by J107-1 or J106-1 Vio-Grn.
You also mention 2 flashers stay lit (romulan and one more), they also are controlled by this board.
To find out if transistors are blown you could do a test with a multi-meter in 'beep' modus and machine 'OFF' and disconnect J106,107,108 (if present)
-one pen on GND (can use GND-strap in backbox)
-with other pen check the 8 transistor coolribs on the 8-driver board (not all are used)
if any of the measurements beeps, that transistor is short.
If no short is found, check the long ribbon cable from CPU to 8-driver for correct position. Keep red line on pos.1

2 years later
#15 6 years ago

Reading this back I've to make a correction about post #7 measuring Br.2 as this is only 50% correct.
TP.2 is behind the LM339 regulator so only (-) to 2x (~) is possible to check without removing the board.
No other components are in reach to put the lead on besides BR.2(+) itself at top left.

(picture will follow later)

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