sttng- playfield mylar removal

(Topic ID: 1741)

sttng- playfield mylar removal

By TZBen

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by SealClubber
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 7 years ago

finally got myself a sttng!! game is fully functional with new opto boards and runs without errors but it has a playfield mylar. I would think that it would be nice and shiny if removed.

the issues:

lots of "stuff" on this game, I'm a little intimidated to remove everything in order to do this. I have the "this old pinball #3 lost in the zone" dvd where they remove the mylar from a tz and it looks like a bitch. Any tips? should I go the freeze spray or hair dryer route or just live with the mylar? do I need to remove everything or just whats necessary to get at the mylar? i.e. leave a bunch of the under playfield mechs in place.



#2 7 years ago

You only need to remove the two wire ramps, there not much in the middle of the playfield. Use freeze spray... You can use a standard air spray, just turn the can upsidedown when spraying. Additionally you can get freeze spray from

Good Luck.

#3 7 years ago

I would try and clean the mylar before trying to remove it. There are a lot of products out there that can do a good job cleaning it and you may get it to a clear enough state that it won't bother you.

Removing it would be a ton of work. You also may not be improving the game by removing it, especially if you muck it up while doing the work. I have found that when I take things apart and put them back together, it is really easy for me to over tighten a bolt, push to hard on a wire, crack a plastic, etc...

#4 7 years ago

one yes one no

now where getting somewhere.

I plan on keeping the game for a long time and I like working on them. But yes I am afraid of cocking it up.

#5 7 years ago

Grats on picking up the Star Trek TNG, TZBen. This morning I just got Final Frontier with a 3 ball & no buy-in, and got awarded the billion points for artifact collection.

You can either have a great game on STTNG where you feel like a champ, or quickly get annihilated by the outlanes.

#6 7 years ago

mine came with the cheater lanes and I'm up in the air if I should install them or not when I reassemble the game.

#7 7 years ago


Cheater lanes. I suppose its fun to try for a while. I like the wide open outlanes myself, as it makes the game more unpredictable and intense. You can sort of get around the right outlane issue, by simply not making shots where it will cause a ball to roll in that area. Once you learn your particular machine, you'll know what shots you want to avoid (possibly via flipper passing).

As for the left outlane, you just have to be on your toes and always make sure kickback is lit.

#8 7 years ago

after a closer look it appears an operator installed the mylar. I wish it was a factory job as that would make my decision easier. I have removed a lot of stuff and have a long way to go but I'm leaning towards just taking off the mylar via the spray method and then using the power orange stuff for the glue. I hope theirs not too much damage under this bad boy.

I'll post some pics when I get further on.

#9 7 years ago

I think you´re definetly doing the right thing! Just get rid of the mylar, it comes off pretty easy with both the freezspray and the hairdryer method. The worst part is to get rid of the glue residue that the mylar leaves behind, that my friend is a bitch. But when the glue is gone and you´ve given the playfield a few buffs with Novus 2, I promise you it will come out great!

Good luck!

And congrats to a great game ( the first one I ever got a highscore on)

#10 7 years ago

Its definately going to look shiny as hell after the mylar removal and novus treatment. Can't wait to see those pics TZBen.

I'll be posting pics of my Star Trek soon, once I finish decorating my gameroom. Spirit Halloween stores nearby just opened their doors for the holiday season. They sell stringed blacklights that I use in my gameroom. Similar to christmas lights. They give off good light and don't cause glare. The ones they sell include female ends in order to daisy chain a whole bunch of them together. Think I got em for $25 or so a set.

1 week later
#11 7 years ago

just thought I'd update my thread. Been taking my time and trying to do a more thorough shop job this time around. Have a lot of stuff ordered and waiting for delivery. Cointaker leds, flipper fidelity speakers etc. Anyway here's a couple shots

057.JPG 058.JPG 059.JPG 060.JPG

#12 7 years ago

next comes the mylar removal in a couple days. I'll post some before and afters.

#13 7 years ago

can someone recommend a type of black spray paint for the gun/launcher?

#14 7 years ago

Can't wait to see those pics after the mylar removal, TZBen. Recently, I changed out the rubbers on my Star Trek, and installed new ramps (with plastic protectors). The game was absolutely brutal to the little kids that came over to play (the ball just rockets all around the freshly waxed playfield).....yet they continually came back to play again. Steve Ritchie knocked it out of the park, as far as making a game for a return audience.

#15 7 years ago

TZ take a close up of the mylar area - Its hard to tell from the picts, I know guys that use the appliance rustoleum spray paint:
for things like that and legs - takes a few days to dry but apparently works well.

STTNG is a pain in the butt to shop out - did mine in the winter, thought it was never going to

#16 7 years ago

That is a big job, good luck with it, was thinking of doing mine, but on second thoughts....

#17 7 years ago

Its my 4th machine and I've learned a lot on the first three, but I've gone much further this time. I expect it to take me a full month of clean this order that before i'm into the testing reassemble stage.

#18 7 years ago

That is a hell of a lot of parts in buckets for a month. Hope you will be able to remember where the all go.

#19 7 years ago

the mylar is off and a lot of the glue has been removed. I f'd up "the final frontier" insert. I have the decal to put over it but the insert it self could use a tune up. Any ideas?


#20 7 years ago

can i paint the insert with a red hobby paint or something?

#21 7 years ago

I damaged a few inserts when I removed my mylar. I wet sanded with a 600 grit paper to remove the razor blade damage. Tape playfield around the insert to prevent damaging any more of the paint around the insert.

You might want to try and make a new insert out of transparency film rather than the replacement sticker. You can reverse print on the bottom of the film to prevent damage to the artwork once installed. The hardest part is finding the correct font to match.

#22 7 years ago

thanks for the idea. I'll try sanding it and see how it looks.

#23 7 years ago

well, I sanded the insert and it is smoother now. But it looks like it needs something before i apply the sticker over it. Can I flame polish it or stain or paint it?

#24 7 years ago

TZBen - I'm looking at picking up a SW(DE) that has a full mylar installed which is bubbling in at least one place. Can you share a little more detail on your removal process (ie, did you go with the canned air, etc.) and whether you would do it again? Thanks!

#25 7 years ago

I did canned air but I probably went too fast with removing it. I damaged a couple inserts that I now have to figure out how to best fix. The playfield looks great though super shiny. I might do the hair dryer method if I had it to do again. I used orange power from pinrestore and it worked well to remove the glue.

I'd do it again but sloooowwwerrrr

#26 7 years ago

Thanks TZBen. I saw something on the hair dryer method a while ago -- does anyone have an opinion as to which method (heat vs freeze spray) works best. As I recall, the pictures of the hair dryer method I saw showed the guy using a metal scrapper to get the mylar up after applying the heat. I remember thinking that it seemed like the metal could easily scratch up the playfield and art.

#27 7 years ago

This guy used freeze spray and it looks easy with no damage

#28 7 years ago

I'm still learning myself, not saying that the freeze spray isn't "the best"

#29 7 years ago

The hair dryer is the best method for decals, but you have to work slowly. The hair dryer is awesome because when you heat the glue, it comes up with the decal and you don't have to do any scraping.

1 week later
#30 7 years ago

question: can I turn on the game with the subway and guns and other items not attached? I want to make sure all my bulbs are working prior to installing the subway.

#31 7 years ago

Should be fine, as long as wires aren't shorted somewhere..

#32 7 years ago

As far as your insert goes, sand it with the finest wet paper you can get. (You already did) Then when its pretty even, clearcoat it.

It doesn't matter if the insert is dull, once you put clearcoat on it, it goes back to looking clear and new. Then put your decal on. (when the clear is dry of course)

#33 7 years ago

Wouldn't you then add more clear over the decal?

#34 7 years ago

doing a clearcoat looks way over my head. I checked out a guys how to on ebay and it was a 5 part series using pressurized air guns and making sure their are is no moisture in the line etc... I think at this point I'm gonna go with laminated decals unless someone has any easy clearcoat method I'm not aware of.

p.s. all light (cointaker) check out fine.

#35 7 years ago

update: game is not done but I am getting some games in finally. It's telling me in test mode "check switch F8 UL flipper. but"

It's fast and fun. I think it's going to fit into the collection nicely.

Sttng_9302010_026.JPG Sttng_9302010_024.JPG Sttng_9302010_027.JPG Sttng_9302010_021.JPG

#36 7 years ago

My Corvette has the same issue with the upper left flipper. It is probably a bad opto on the opto board by the button. Since it doesn't have an upper left flipper, I am not worried about it.

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