(Topic ID: 281413)

STTNG Pinball keeps turning of and on instantly

By Macman1979

3 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Hello all,

This is my first post, thank you all in advance for your help!

I just bought a STTNG (new to me) pinball and it worked at the guys house except for it cut off and rebooted randomly shortly after it was turned on. It did this twice but then played fine for about 10-15 minutes. He said it had never done that before so he thought it was just a fluke as he had just changed the batteries on the board.

Fast forward to I brought the machine home and hooked it up and now it keeps turning off and on withing 2-3 seconds of being on and it never stays on, it just keeps looping turning on, off, on, off, etc. over and over again. It also flashes the message on the dmd "Error 50023 Press Enter for error report" and then it launches the balls around the ramp, makes a loud knocking sound and shuts off then it immediately turns back on and does the same thing again. It continues to do this non stop.

What I have tried so far...

1. I replaced the batteries and checked for corrosion or leakage damage on the board and terminals and there is none.
2. I checked the caps and don't see any bulging.
3. I checked the connectors and ribbon cables to make sure they are all pushed in all the way and did not notice anything loose or out of the ordinary.
4. I made sure that the machine is plugged into its own outlet without any other games on in the room and the electric outlet goes straight to the breaker panel without any other splits or junctions in between.
5. I have 6 other pinball machines and have had them plugged into that same outlet before and have not had any problems like this ever happen before.

Thanks again for your help. You guys are awesome on here and I hope someone can point me in the right direction. I have mostly bought newer pins in the past and don't have a lot of experience working on pins but I am able and willing to learn. I know how to solder and I can use a volt meter ok, I just don't know where to start for troubleshooting as I am a noob.

#STTNG
Star TREK THE NEXT GENERATION PINBALL

Thanks guys and gals

#2 3 years ago

It sounds like you have a WPC reset issue. Basically, when the 5v voltage drops below a certain point, the game automatically resets.

If there are any mods installed that are using power, try disconnecting those. Too many mods can sometimes overtax the 5v circuit.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Using a kahr daughterboard is one quick way to test for the issue: https://www.kahr.us/

However, it's usually better to fix the source of the issue and not just rely on the kahr board to fix it.

#3 3 years ago

Hello Forceflow,

Thank you so much for the help and the links! I just ordered the board. The game seems to be bare bones original and there are not any mods installed that I can tell. It does not even have any LEDs installed in it. Any idea of where to start testing for the voltage levels? Do I start on the caps or the connectors or on a specific board?

Thank you again for your help

Kind regards.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

It sounds like you have a WPC reset issue. Basically, when the 5v voltage drops below a certain point, the game automatically resets.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
Using a kahr daughterboard is one quick way to test for the issue: https://www.kahr.us/
However, it's usually better to fix the source of the issue and not just rely on the kahr board to fix it.

Ditto what ForceFlow said. Try reseating the connectors first. I was having the same issue on my twilight zone pinball machine and I ended up removing the Z connector and soldering the two wires together as the voltage would drop across the connector just enough to trip the watchdog reset. Start here to understand what is going on. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ever-have-this-problem-with-tz

#5 3 years ago

Removing the z connector and direct soldering the connections solved the issue for me but I ended up selling TZ about a year ago to a friend. He ultimately ended up putting in a new daughter board after the issue started to creep back in. There are few things more frustrating than having a great game end for no reason. Mine would do it when I hit both flippers at the same time.

#6 3 years ago

Hello HurryUpPinball,

Thanks for the reply!

I'm jealous about TZ, that is probably going to be the next pin I buy if I can find a decent one near Atlanta! I love the theme and I love the game! Sorry yours had the issues, I hope mine can be fixed because STTNG has been a dream pinball for me for many years! I am very happy and thankful to finally have it! Did you try the adaptor board that ForceFlow mentioned by chance? Also thanks for the information and the links. I will start checking them out now.

Regards.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

Any idea of where to start testing for the voltage levels?

There are test points on the board. Do you have schematics and a multimeter?
IPDB.org has a set: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357

P.S. Welcome to Pinside!
Also, the Kahr board is excellent.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

Any idea of where to start testing for the voltage levels?

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#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

Hello HurryUpPinball,
Thanks for the reply!
I'm jealous about TZ, that is probably going to be the next pin I buy if I can find a decent one near Atlanta! I love the theme and I love the game! Sorry yours had the issues, I hope mine can be fixed because STTNG has been a dream pinball for me for many years! I am very happy and thankful to finally have it! Did you try the adaptor board that ForceFlow mentioned by chance? Also thanks for the information and the links. I will start checking them out now.
Regards.

Removing the Z connector solved my issue and it didn’t reset on me for the next 6-7 months that I owned it. I do think it helped but ultimately the problem was further down the line. If you have the $ to install the daughter board, that is a better way to go. Z connector can be a temporary fix but it is better to fix the root of the problem and forget about it. I never purchased the board but the guy I sold it to did and he has not had any issues since. TZ is an awesome game and truth be told, I still miss it. If you have an opportunity to get one at a decent price, I don’t think you will regret it. Prices are slowing creeping up on TZ. If you do get one, drop in the color DMD, it brings a whole new life to that game.

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#10 3 years ago
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:

If you do get one, drop in the color DMD, it brings a whole new life to that game.

ColorDMD is a must on both TZ and STTNG. I do refer the ColorLED version over the ColorLCD on these two titles and most older Bally/Williams games ... this is a personal preference.

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#11 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

If there are any mods installed that are using power, try disconnecting those. Too many mods can sometimes overtax the 5v circuit.

I don't know of any mods that use the 5V circuit as this voltage does not go to the playfield and is also not used by the ColorDMD.

Quoted from ForceFlow:

Using a kahr daughterboard is one quick way to test for the issue: https://www.kahr.us/
However, it's usually better to fix the source of the issue and not just rely on the kahr board to fix it.

Exactly, Please keep in mind that the Kahr board is nothing more than a bandaid, please treat it as such. A 5V power issue will not get better on its own and will continue to degrade to a point its effects other boards; this will be seen as seemingly unexplainable random behavior and is difficult to troubleshoot for anyone trying to help you isolate problems if they know you have a Kahr board installed. If you add one of these, disclose this information to anyone helping you with other issues on your machine. I worked with one guy that had obscure issues effecting his data lines and he insisted he had 5V on his processor...but after several days I found out this was the only place he had 5V; once I found out he had a Kahr board, I had him remove it and his 5V was so bad the game stayed in Blanking and wouldn't boot at all.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

he Kahr board is nothing more than a bandaid,

Put that nonsense claim to bed. It’s closer to a replacement hip. The board creates a new 5v circuit as detailed at http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
While a machine may develop other problems it won’t be resetting due to low 5v as rkahr has explained.
http://www.kahr.us/index2.html

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

The board creates a new 5v circuit ...

It may do so but it does not do so without a cost. Something in the system has to pay for this. In the case of this daughter board your payment is a tax on the +12VR circuit. So instead of a single circuit dedicated to supplying the entire +5V requirements for the machine you now have two circuits supplying +5V to separate parts of the machine. There are now potentially more points of failure not less. Anything in the original +5V circuit can be a point of failure and now anything in the +12VR circuit may be a point of failure.

Also ... a failure in the +12VR circuit will exhibit different problems and have potentially different causes. Examples

- Leakage of C2 on the power board will potentially take out the data lines to the solenoid 74LS374 ICs but will now definitely take out the +5V supply to the CPU board if catastrophic enough.

- A short in the controlled lamp matrix in the playfield takes out F114. No controlled lamps. But ... also no +12VR and therefore no +5V. Someone asks the person to test the +5V test point on the CPU and it reads 4.98V. So why doesn't the CPU board start?!?!?!?

The board may SUPPRESS +5V resets but it's not without cost or potential future confusion.

It's fair for anyone to be able to use it. It has a purpose. People should use it knowing what the cost of using it is. Caveat emptor.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Put that nonsense claim to bed. It’s closer to a replacement hip. The board creates a new 5v circuit as detailed at http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
While a machine may develop other problems it won’t be resetting due to low 5v as rkahr has explained.
http://www.kahr.us/index2.html

And this would be true if the CPU board was the only board in the machine that uses 5V...but it's not.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

[quoted image]

Awesome!! Thank you so much for the schematic! This really helps me out!

Kind regards!

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

ColorDMD is a must on both TZ and STTNG. I do refer the ColorLED version over the ColorLCD on these two titles and most older Bally/Williams games ... this is a personal preference.[quoted image]

Thanks Pinguy! I will certainly check out one of those color DMD displays as soon as I get this beast working!!

Thanks again for the schematics! I will test it tonight and let yall know what I get. I will also take some pics and a video to show yall what is happening.

Regards.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

[quoted image]

Hello PinGuy,

Thanks again for the schematic and telling me what to check. I Would have been lost without this!

So I checked all of these and the ones that did not look right are the TP5 (below TP7) was 7.5V.

And the TP4 (on the left side of board) was 0.412V.

All of the other TP points where within either right at the range or above the range.

Any idea what this means?

Thanks,
Daniel

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

Hello PinGuy,
Thanks again for the schematic and telling me what to check. I Would have been lost without this!
So I checked all of these and the ones that did not look right are the TP5 (below TP7) was 7.5V.
And the TP4 (on the left side of board) was 0.412V.
All of the other TP points where within either right at the range or above the range.
Any idea what this means?
Thanks,
Daniel

What was the actual voltage you measured at TP2? And also measure it on the CPU board at the game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin - see the red arrow in the below image). If the voltage at the CPU board is much lower than TP2, then with the power off reseat the following connectors - J101 & J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU board, also reseat the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Then turn the machine back on and remeasure the voltage at TP2 and pin32. See if reseating those connectors make an improvement of the voltage on the CPU board - let us know what voltages you get

WPC89 (resized).jpgWPC89 (resized).jpg
#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What was the actual voltage you measured at TP2? And also measure it on the CPU board at the game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin - see the red arrow in the below image). If the voltage at the CPU board is much lower than TP2, then with the power off reseat the following connectors - J101 & J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the CPU board, also reseat the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Then turn the machine back on and remeasure the voltage at TP2 and pin32. See if reseating those connectors make an improvement of the voltage on the CPU board - let us know what voltages you get
[quoted image]

Hello Many65,

Thank you very much for the help and the schematic. I checked the lower on TP2 and it is 5.03. Also, I checked the eprom on pin32 and it was 4.97.

Does that mean anything?

Thank you!

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

So I checked all of these and the ones that did not look right are the TP5 (below TP7) was 7.5V.

Ignore TP4, This is your zero cross signal going back to the CPU and is used for GI Dimming.

TP 5 is ground and should always measure 0V to the ground braid, where are you putting your other test lead when you measured this? Double check your groud braid between the cabinet and the head.

I would be very interested in what the 3 lights on the CPU board are doing when it resets.

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#21 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Ignore TP4, This is your zero cross signal going back to the CPU and is used for GI Dimming.
TP 5 is ground and should always measure 0V to the ground braid, where are you putting your other test lead when you measured this?
I would be very interested in what the 3 lights on the CPU board are doing when it resets.

Hello PinGuy and thanks again for the help!

So I tested TP5 again and I am getting -10V to -9.6V on TP5. I am placing the red (positive) lead of the tester on TP5 and the black (negative) lead on the metal braded ground wire at the base of the cabinet. I have attached some pics for your reference.

I turned the machine on and the lights on the CPU board blink in the flowing order (using numbers 1, 2, 3 for the lights where 1 is the top, 2 is the middle and 3 is the bottom).

First turn the machine on and audio goes din, ding ding, lights turn on 1 and 3 and then quickly flash to 1 and 2 for a few seconds and stop on 1 and 3 again. I have also attached pics of this for your reference.

Thank you!

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#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

First turn the machine on and audio goes din, ding ding, lights turn on 1 and 3 and then quickly flash to 1 and 2 for a few seconds and stop on 1 and 3 again. I have also attached pics of this for your reference.

Board set looks really clean, your CPU board is originally from a Judge Dread but that doesn't matter...just an FYI

Please look over the chart below.

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#23 3 years ago

If you wouldn't mind, pull your CPU card from the game and place it on your workbench or other hard surface and give a firmly press down on of the socketed chips to make sure they are well seated, ESPECIALLY the ASIC chip which is the big square one near the middle of the board.

This is a good place to start for weird issues. Also, if you have a Khar daughter board installed, please remove it when you reinstall the CPU.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

If you wouldn't mind, pull your CPU card from the game and place it on your workbench or other hard surface and give a firmly press down on of the socketed chips to make sure they are well seated, ESPECIALLY the ASIC chip which is the big square one near the middle of the board.
This is a good place to start for weird issues. Also, if you have a Khar daughter board installed, please remove it when you reinstall the CPU.

Hi PinGuy,
Thank you for the info. Sorry for the late reply back, I work night and every other weekend and this is the weekend I work so I have not had time to check back in with yall yet. I will pull the board and try what you recomended when I get home in the morning.

Also, I wanted to send you an update on what I did try. On the UD Rom pin on the bottom right that you told me to check, I was reading about 4.7V, could that be an issue?

Second, I turned it on and off and it is acting different then it did originally now. For example, before when I turned it on the machine would try to boot up, shoot the balls around the ramp a couple of times, flash the 50025 press enter for error report message on the DMD and ding, ding a couple of times.

Now when I turn it on the machine makes a knock sound (does not ding, ding) and does not flash anything on the DMD.

The lights on the CPU board do still turn on and off though. They start with lights 1 and 3, switch to lights 2 and three, then switch back to lights 1 and 3 and stay there.

I tried to count the number of blinks on light 2, however it was blinking so fast, I could not count it (is this normal)?

So to capture the blink sequence I thought to use my I phones slow motion camera feature and I was able to count the blinks. Light 2 seems to blink 6 times in rapid secession and then switch to light 1 and 3 staying on. Also, another time light 2 seemed to rapidly blink 10 times (if I counted properly) . These patterns were different then the diagnostics that you posted. So maybe I am looking at it wrong? I tried to upload the video on here foe yall to see, however pinside does not like my video format. I will see if I can send the video to my computer and reformat it for upload purposes.

Also, like I said, I will pull the board and try pushing the chips down on a flat surface to ensure they are seated properly in the morning and let you know what happens.

Kind regards

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

I tried to count the number of blinks on light 2, however it was blinking so fast, I could not count it (is this normal)?

The fast blinking D2 light means the processor board is running; if D2 was blinking with an error code, it blinks very slow around a 1 second cycle I believe but its been a VERY long time since I've actually seen one of these error coded. The Top Light is the key here and means the machine is in a "blanking" state, this blanking signal essentially holds the game in a permanent reset state to prevent secondary component failures.

Quoted from Macman1979:

Also, I wanted to send you an update on what I did try. On the UD Rom pin on the bottom right that you told me to check, I was reading about 4.7V, could that be an issue?

Since you previously measured +5.03 on TP2, having +4.7V on the processor board shows a significant voltage drop between the Power and CPU boards where there should be nearly no loss in voltage.

Please verify your TP2 reading. I actually prefer to measure the processor board voltage as close to the source as possible and found C31 to be a very convenient point to make these measurements; this is especially true if you have clip on test leads. U10 shown in the image is the part on the board that actually sets a processor reset if the voltage drops below 4.6V (+/- .1). With this in mind, having 4.7V on the processor board is very bad.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#26 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The fast blinking D2 light means the processor board is running; if D2 was blinking with an error code, it blinks very slow around a 1 second cycle I believe but its been a VERY long time since I've actually seen one of these error coded. The Top Light is the key here and means the machine is in a "blanking" state, this blanking signal essentially holds the game in a permanent reset state to prevent secondary component failures.

Since you previously measured +5.03 on TP2, having +4.7V on the processor board shows a significant voltage drop between the Power and CPU boards where there should be nearly no loss in voltage.
Please verify your TP2 reading. I actually prefer to measure the processor board voltage as close to the source as possible and found C31 to be a very convenient point to make these measurements; this is especially true if you have clip on test leads. U10 shown in the image is the part on the board that actually sets a processor reset if the voltage drops below 4.6V (+/- .1). With this in mind, having 4.7V on the processor board is very bad.[quoted image]

Hello PinGuy,

Thanks again! I rechecked TP2 amd it was fluctuating between +5.5V and 5.4V. I also checked the Pin on the chip on the CPU board again and it fluctuated between +4.98V and +4.99V. I forgot to I check U10 as I was running late for work and checked it before I left. I also have not pulled the board and pressed down the chips yet. I will do both if these in the morning at around 0700 and let you know what I find.

Regards

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from Macman1979:

Hello PinGuy,
Thanks again! I rechecked TP2 amd it was fluctuating between +5.5V and 5.4V. I also checked the Pin on the chip on the CPU board again and it fluctuated between +4.98V and +4.99V. I forgot to I check U10 as I was running late for work and checked it before I left. I also have not pulled the board and pressed down the chips yet. I will do both if these in the morning at around 0700 and let you know what I find.
Regards

Hello PinGuy,

So I pulled the board and pressed down on alm the chips on a hard surface. I also wiggled the AA batteries. I checked the blue cap U10 and its voltage was +4.98V.

After this, I checked the power level on the chip on the CPU board again and it still read +4.97V. While checking this I accidently touched the positive (red) Voltage Meater metal tip on the pin directly to the left of the pin you asked me to check and the machine reset, like the power was turned off and then back on. The only thing different however, was that the DMD lit up and the machine stayed on. It actually stayed on for hours last night. I was excited and thought that it had some how miraculously fixed itself.

I just went into the game room to turn it on again to make sure it was still working, and when I turned it on this morning, it started not working and resetting again. It did this 3 or 4 times and then it started working again...

Any ideas??

Do you think I need to replace the caps, or that I could have a cold Sauder or something?

Thanks again for your help

#28 3 years ago

This sounds like connector/header issues. Often times just pulling off a connector and reseating can cause a machine to start working again, but it usually wont last; the problem with the headers and connectors is that both the connector and header plating can degrade over time and can cause these issues. The connectors and headers are only rated for 25 actions and it doesn't matter if the connector is a ICD type or a crimp pin type as the part that degrades it the metal on metal surfaces where the actual contact is made.

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