Quoted from holminone:

Yes. Re-solder the wires appropriately and report back. And doing the obvious is never the long shot! Quite the opposite actually. Those diodes and wires are precisely placed for a reason.

Quoted from holminone:

Yes. Re-solder the wires appropriately and report back. And doing the obvious is never the long shot! Quite the opposite actually. Those diodes and wires are precisely placed for a reason.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

More information on this error message: F114 is your main power fuse tied to BR1 for generating your +18V DC lamps voltage AND your regulated 12V for the switch matrix; the error message that says "says check 114 and 115" is there because switch 24 named "Always Closed" isn't closed, this switch is actually a diode on the coin door interface board that tells the computer the status of the +12VR driving the switch matrix and is a critical fault if missing.
Start by measuring your lamp voltage at TP8, ideally use a min/max meter to measure this as a "fails over time" malfunctions is usually caused by a gradual heating of the fuse until it finally blows and could be the result of a the 18V decreasing over time or simply the 18V circuit drawing slightly more current then the fuse is rated for over a long period of time .
Do you have any insert lamps that are stuck on?

Quoted from Rkrall:

Sadly the fuse blew again. I do have a possibly related light issue on the playfield 1 test, no bulbs light on that test and these two are out on the all illumination test. (Green white and green wires)
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Sounds like a drop target switch problem. Go into switch test mode and trigger the drop target. You'll know if the switch is functioning normally.

Quoted from Manny65:

The speed the drop target comes down shouldn't matter, however sometimes the drop target will become gummed up and just needs to disassembled and cleaned for it to slide easier. Make sure the switch arm is below the plastic tab on the plastic drop target
[quoted image]
Also you should have a plastic actuator guide (number 24 on the diagram and also shown with the red arrow), which keeps the switch arm correctly in place
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

Lock will be lit by dropping the drop target (switch #57), whereas getting the actual lock or launching holodeck is triggered by the top hole opto (switch #45). Can you check that switch 45 is working - in switch test mode drop a ball in the top hole, you will get multiple switches being triggered as the ball goes through the subway however the first switch triggered should be 45. I'm wondering whether the game is compensating for a failed switch during game play, but not at ball launch.

Quoted from Manny65:

Lock will be lit by dropping the drop target (switch #57), whereas getting the actual lock or launching holodeck is triggered by the top hole opto (switch #45). Can you check that switch 45 is working - in switch test mode drop a ball in the top hole, you will get multiple switches being triggered as the ball goes through the subway however the first switch triggered should be 45. I'm wondering whether the game is compensating for a failed switch during game play, but not at ball launch.

Quoted from Rkrall:

Confirmed, 45 registers everytime as the ball enters

Quoted from bobukcat:

Sounds like a bad or poorly alined switch on the drop target to me.

Quoted from Manny65:

Thought you had already fixed your drop target - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/97#post-5983872
If it is still causing issues, then the easiest way to work on it is to remove the entire mech and give it the full once over