Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rellikjm.
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J106-1, J107-1 and J108-1 are all connected together by the traces on the power driver board so you should only need to connect to one of the connectors. I wouldn’t expect the connection made between them to fail without some sort of catastrophic damage.
Quoted from Trindawg:So I had a couple fuses pop on me today. F114 and F115. I don’t know why. All I did recently was change out sling switches and when I tested the machine the other day, it was fine. I did some minor
Leaf switch adjustments and went to turn on the machine and the balls weren’t shooting out of the launcher. One after the l the other they just loaded up but wouldn’t launch. Any ideas what I did wrong ? Where can I buy fuses and I’m having a hard time removing them.
Check U20 on the CPU board. If the game starts with a message to check F114 and F115 it is having trouble verifying the always closed switch on the coin door interface board. I recently fried U20 on my CPU and my machine had the check F114 and F115 message. Don’t just replace U20 without finding where either 50V or 20V or a short to ground in the switch matrix caused U20 to fail.
Quoted from Trindawg:I don’t see U20
Listed in the owners manual ? What size fuse is it? And I don’t know about the other stuff you advised. About switch matrix ?
U20 is an integrated circuit soldered to the CPU board. It’s not a fuse. The cannons are searching because the switch column driver U20 is most likely damaged. And not outputting a drive pulse to each column in turn. It’s a common point of failure on WPC machines. Your machine needs careful checking before you replace the fuses as you can do more damage by just replacing the fuses without finding the fault that caused the fuse to blow.
Quoted from Trindawg:How would I know if u20 is damaged?
Visually inspect the chip and see if it has bulged open. Can you take a picture of the CPU board focusing on the area of U20 as pictured above and post it please? I’d like to see if it’s socketed or soldered directly to the board before we proceed. Do you have a multimeter and are comfortable taking some measurements?
Quoted from Trindawg:Looks like U20 is intact ?
Looks ok visually, which is promising. Pinball Life has the fuses you need. Have you inspected the areas where you installed the new sling switches, and adjusted switches recently? Is the lighting mod that attaches to GI for power new or something you’ve had for awhile? Look for anything that might be touching something it shouldn’t.
Quoted from DumbAss:IMHO: Visual inspection is inadequate when it comes to assessing electronics ... unless you have electron vision. Superman had x-ray vision but not electron vision. I wonder what the world would like look in electron vision.
I agree 110%, functional verification is the only way to verify proper operation. When the IC looks like this though we know it’s no good.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Trindawg:It bulged out. It wasn’t at first until a “tech “ friend came over and started doing different tests with it. Here’s a pic. Now I don’t know what to do. He said he can replace the IC for me. But we still need to find why it’s blowing fuses. Now I have to replace the IC. Sorry for the blurry pic. Now. Where can I order a replacement IC?
[quoted image]
It’s cooked now. It would appear you still have a column that is connected somewhere (ground, 50VDC, 20VDC) that it shouldn’t be connected to. Whom ever repairs the board needs to have the proper desoldering equipment to remove the bad IC without damaging the circuit board. As long the board is repaired properly with a socket you will be in better shape in the future as this is a common fault. After the board is repaired you should leave the column drive connector J207 disconnected and leave it disconnected until you find the fault or it will destroy the new U20 IC and possibly U14. It is imperative to find the fault that destroyed U20 before connecting J207 otherwise your just throwing money away and possibly causing more damage.
Quoted from Trindawg:So I’m just going back in time a little as to when this issue started happening. It all started after I installed new sling switches. I soldered them just as the old ones were. I ordered my set from action pinball. But on one of the switch sets, the leads were soldered differently then my originals. One lead was going from the short leaf to a long leaf. And on the originals, one lead was going to a short leaf to the other short leaf, and one lead going from long leaf to the other long leaf. Does this matter on that switch ? Was it shipped to me wrong ? Just throwing this out there to see if that’s the problem
ST:TNG takes special slingshot switches. If the new ones aren’t correct they short out on the cannon mechanisms. All of the terminals need to come off of the side instead of the bottom. I’m not 100% sure but I don’t think the correct switches are available anymore.
Regarding the wiring it shouldn’t matter as long as the diode is correctly installed and the wires are correct with respect to the diode.
Quoted from Trindawg:So I’m shipping off my board to Michigan to my guy that I bought a Golden Tee machine from. He owns an amusement company. He repairs his own boards and is a pro at it. Will be shipping him out the board, IC and a socket for said IC. Just in case for future IC replacement if ever necessary. He’s coming to my part of town next week and will bring the repaired board and will fix my machine to see why my fuse blowing issue is going on. My machine should be up and running soon!
Sounds good. I wish that you could of avoided this by doing some checks first before destroying the U20 IC. It's possible it was already damaged when the fuses first blew but there was a slight possibility it was still good.
Your Pro needs to find the fault before connecting J207 to avoid destroying another U20 IC.
Quoted from Trindawg:So my pro showed up today and got my machine all fixed up! He brought back the cpu board with the replaced IC and socket, lithium battery (not coin cell type), did the tie back mod for me, and fixed an issue during Romulan mode where my machine was acting funky. There’s one thing that needs to be fixed in addition but I can do that myself. All my wiring with the slingshot switches was fine. I’m a happy camper !
Awesome! Now it's time to play and post some scores. Where was the fault that caused U20 to burn up?
Quoted from Pinkitten:Thanks! It’s definitely not the MPU. I replaced it with a new one and it’s the same, 5 switches out. I’ll check the connections on all 5 switches again. If I can’t fix it, I’ll take you up on the help. Is your friend Clay or Parker? Or someone else?
Thank you.
Take a look at these 2 connectors. They are where your green wire with a red stripe travels to end at the neutral zone 45 degree switches. The first is right where the harness attaches to the playfield and is a 4 pin connector. E5279D4A-1327-4F72-83A9-CC21D68D61C1 (resized).jpeg The second is a two pin connector near the neutral zone switches. 187D3CD4-352B-4057-85FF-AF0D168BCC56 (resized).jpeg
I suspect you’ll find a problem on the first 4 pin connector.
Quoted from Kenz:Could someone send me a pic of the connections on their trough boards. I’ve had a bit of a hack done to the cabling connection of mine but as they’ve never failed I’ve been reluctant to change and tidy it out. Had the game for 10years and still rate it as one of the best shooters with great flow!
Here are some pictures from my machine after I fixed it. Mine had a few hacks that I removed when I repaired the connectors and harness. Your power connector on the LED PCB assembly may have 4 wires on it. Mine did before I fixed it so it now matches the manual. When I spliced the harness I used all the correct wire colors and sizes, spaced the joints out so they weren’t all at the same position and used the Chris Hutchins method of strain relief on the connectors.
Let me know if you have any questions.
IMG_3330 (resized).jpegIMG_3331 (resized).jpegIMG_3332 (resized).jpegIMG_3333 (resized).jpegIMG_3334 (resized).jpegQuoted from Tallon:I’m usually not one to beg but I’m looking for a couple plastics that’s are broke on my game and I’m hoping someone has them. No it’s not the usually broken ones for once
The big corner plastic in the back left corner under all the ramps and the little clear piece with all the posts at the entrance to the command descision shot (right behind the delta ramp protecting ball jams there)
Anyone have either or both from a rebuild please let me know. Would be a shame to grab a plastic set for 2 plastics that are not usually broke
I was able to purchase individual plastics from Planetary Pinball. https://www.planetarypinball.com/ and search for "GS-STTNG" it pulls up all of the individual plastics available for the machine.
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Pleasanton, CA