(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (9 months ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (9 months ago)


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#3014 4 months ago

Hi everyone, I just picked up an STTNG yesterday! So pumped to have a pin in the house again.

It was dirty on top of the playfield and the cabinet is beat up, but under the playfield is spotless. There’s almost no black coil dust anywhere to be found.

It hasn’t been played in years because the “ball needed to be calibrated”.

I’m having trouble with the playfield rail/latch assembly. Judging by the inside of the cabinet, I’m not the first person to have this problem.

I can’t get the playfield to lock in the upright position. I had a HSII, and am using the same technique.

Let me know if you can tell what’s going on from the pics. Thanks in advance for any assistance you could provide.

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#3025 4 months ago

Where are these 2 plugs supposed to plug into?

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#3030 4 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'm assuming you've found the answer to your question by now but if not - the bracket should not be hitting / sitting on the wood like that. Someone disconnected the PF from the slide assembly and then never stuck it back on. It should slide up onto that back hinge / post and the arm will snap in to prevent it from going down and hitting the wood rail. There are some good pictures and instructions in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-remove-entire-playfield
In my opinion this is by far the best playfield slide / service position system ever put into a production pinball machine and I wish JJP, AP and others would use it.

Thanks for that link, it’s very helpful. I never ran across that one in all of my searches.

I haven’t been able to find any info on this ROM. Should it be reflashed to a newer version for any reason? Any worthwhile updates since 1993?

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#3037 4 months ago

I wonder if this hack led to the fried coils which kept the diverters from working properly:

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#3039 4 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Not really a hack, just one of the ways to repair burned or traces lifted when that transistor was replaced.
Whenever you replace a transistor on these or any board with suppression diodes installed on the board, do yourself a favor and replace the corresponding diode at the same time as the transistor.

If the infamous small green/purple wire associated with the tie-back mod did not lose connection, what else could cause issues with the aux driver board and fried diverter coils?

#3041 4 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Bad suppression diode, failing coil, code glitch (locking the coil on too long)...

Thanks for the info. I’ve got enough parts coming to hopefully prevent any of those issues.

#3054 4 months ago

I made the rookie mistake of not marking, or taking a picture, of the diverter before I took it apart.

Can anyone tell me how the diverter that I’m pointing to should be positioned with the power off? Inside or outside of the trough?

Also should the green coil below be a 25-1000 instead of a 26-1200?

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#3088 4 months ago

What type of fuse should be in the main power box? (not sure what to call it, the box with the service outlet)

I believe it’s an 8 amp, but is it slow burn?

#3096 4 months ago
Quoted from humberto:

Hi pinless,

Assuming you are talking about the line filter the manual states (Pg 1-39): Domestic Game: 8A N.B. (normal burn) and Foreign Game 5A, S.B. (slow burn)
I am a bit cautious because I've seen these units swapped and the fuses may change with different models. But I have limited experience with Pinball.
See a photo of the box in my machine (Foreign model) for instance.
Cheers.[quoted image]

Thanks!!

#3107 3 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I’m closing in on my STTNG refurb. Topside is nearly complete. Today I focused on rebuilding all of the VUK and subway opto boards. I’m trying to replace every opto on the game, and do it as cheaply as possible. I also replaced all of the topside cherry switches. Hoping this machine runs without problems for 5 or 10 years...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great! Where did you get those custom instruction cards on the apron?

#3125 3 months ago

Should an opto be replaced if it’s an orangish/brown color?

#3126 3 months ago

Lots of stuff going on here. It’s not launching any balls at all right now. Any ideas? (I removed the electrical tape being used to insulate the twisted wires)

It looks like my J120/121 are both toast too.

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#3128 3 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

That soldering and wire hack work...
J120/121 are GI power, and those need to be redone with new headers/connectors, they're burnt, but not your ball launch issue.
The wiring to your eject coil and trough opto board is suspect AF, I would redo it all correctly... but at minimum, flow solder on all the wire connections and make sure it's actually wired properly. The white/yellow wire running to that coil doesn't look well connected.

Yeah, I know, it’s terrible. It’s just 4 more things on a long list of things.

Can anyone recommend someone that can solder new headers to the board? Also noticed this U13 chip has some heat marks behind it.

Not even sure where to start on the wiring.

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#3139 3 months ago

Went through the various flipper tests today. The left flipper doesn’t move during the “hold” test. What could be the cause?

It seems to work fine besides the hold test.

1 week later
#3154 3 months ago

Does anyone know the part # for this switch under the cannon?

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#3156 3 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Technically I think they were Cherry DA3C-B1AA, which are NLA.
I have been using DB3C-B1AA switches, which require more force to actuate. I have them on all of my STTNG ramps and so far they've been fine. More details are in the post below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games#post-4941787
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/zf-electronics/db3c-b1aa/?qs=Z9t1pRjfOcyNm7XI%2Fy9Iqw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
Edited post since my pic wasn't working...

Perfect, thanks!

I know I’m missing a hex post here, but I think I may also be missing the post below it.

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#3162 3 months ago

What could cause the flipper coils to lock on for a few seconds when you turn the game on?

It’s blown F103, F112 and F11 in the past, but I’m not sure if it’s related. I put new LED’s in today and it looks like a lot of my flashers are not working. I just tested the fuses and they all appear to be good at the moment.

Edit: flashers are working in attract mode

#3164 3 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I'd be checking the flipper transistors if your flippers are locking on. Check the manual for fuse lines if they are blowing. Sounds like you have some board work ahead.

It has a new MPU, new aux driver board, and transistors checked out ok on the FlipTronics ii.

Are you thinking there could be an issue with the FlipTronics besides the transistors?

#3167 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

Thanks! Fliptronics and ribbon cables ordered. Hopefully I’ll throw enough new parts at it to fix it.

#3170 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

Just installed new ribbon cables and FlipTronics board. The board fixed the initial solenoid locking issue, but now it doesn’t boot up. It only displays a few dots on the DMD.

I’ve went over my connections a few times and I don’t see anything. Any suggestions? Or does someone see something I missed?
6BA98D8E-E1E6-47D3-87B7-F3ED01C0FB1B (resized).jpeg

Edit-found a ribbon cable not seated correctly. All is well. A STTNG is officially back from being dead 10+ years!

Thanks Pinside!

#3171 3 months ago

It played 1 game flawlessly and then proceeded to blow F103, F104 and F105. I think I jinxed it.

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#3174 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Hey that my avatar! LOL
But you now know one of the reasons I chose it

It’s the perfect avatar for an owner of this game trying to diagnose multiple issues.

I’m at this level of frustration now:

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#3175 3 months ago

I got another round of fuses and it immediately blew F103 upon turning the power on.

Where should I start checking?

The CPU chip appears to be seated. Coils look ok.

I’m pretty sure I just bought the last 3A slow blow fuses witching a 30 mile radius

#3176 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I got another round of fuses and it immediately blew F103 upon turning the power on.
Where should I start checking?
The CPU chip appears to be seated. Coils look ok.
I’m pretty sure I just bought the last 3A slow blow fuses witching a 30 mile radius

I should add the following items are new:
MPU board
Aux board
FlipTronics board
All diverter coils including the drop/up target coil
Diverters/cannons are clean and free of gunk
Ribbon cables

I played 10+ games, then installed the FlipTronics and ribbon cables. The FlipTronics fixed the initial coil locking issue. Played 1 game and now it zaps f103 immediately upon power up.

#3178 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This could be bad as you may have a broken tieback wire, if you don't know what this is please look here .... actually look here anyways.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation
The issue with a broken tieback wire is that you can repair/replace your 8 driver PCB, but if this wire is broken the drive transistors will blow immediately after your repair due to the excessive flyback voltage from the games coils hitting the transistor like a sledge hammer when their field collapses.
This is what F103 Powers:
[quoted image]
With no tieback voltage to dissipate the coils flyback voltage all of the 4 transistors highlight in the image below are suspected failures:
[quoted image]
NOTE, this may also cause the coils to melt.
If you want to confirm this is the problem, simply remove J4 from the 8-Driver board and turn the machine on; F103 should not blow.

I have 1 10ga wire soldered to the coil lug and the 3 violet wires soldered to the other end and covered with heat shrink to avoid the tie back issue.

Once my fuses show up on Thursday, I’ll be able to begin troubleshooting again. Thanks again for the assistance

#3185 3 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I replaced my stock sub with this today:
amazon.com link »
In short, it was an easy add. The mounting holes lined up and the spade connectors matched the original. But, it added virtually nothing in terms of bass, which I guess is to be expected. I supposed one needs to alter the back box to cabinet volume, which isn’t the clearest thing to do on DCS with stock backbox speakers.
Given that, I hooked my 10” Polk sub up to the game. Man, it really adds some bass. But even it that, it seems like mids are missing.
I may modify the sound board to alter the back box to cabinet volume, to see if I pick up mids.
I understand it’s not a high end sound system, but I think i can make it better...

Have you checked out pinwoofer.com ?

I believe he put together a dual amp kit for WPC games that’s getting good reviews.

#3198 3 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

If you haven’t seen these are a must. You just have to add alligator clips. I have a 5amp and a 3amp version.
Blue Sea Systems Push Button Reset Only Quick Connect 3A Circuit Breaker amazon.com link »[quoted image]

Nice! I’ve blown through about $30+ dollars in fuses trying to troubleshoot this thing. It would have paid for itself already.

On another note, my Flippers wouldn’t do much on the “hold” test. After I installed the new FlipTronics board, they pass all tests with flying colors.

I’m not sure what that means, but I feel like I fixed something!

#3215 85 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I had mine on DotsXL the entire time I had the Color DMD in my STTNG...I recently moved it to my Metallica and installed the LED version in STTNG...it looks amazing!

So you prefer LED over LCD?

#3219 84 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I do in this machine

What is it about the LED that makes it stand out above LCD?

#3222 81 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Well...opto tested my right flipper board. The attached gif has a fast activation followed by a slower activation. Tests read out fine, but I swapped it with my left flipper opto board which also tested the same, and boy was the difference night and day!
I'm not sure why I can't read the opto board as bad by my tests on the machine or even with this standalone tester...it's almost like I would need an oscilloscope to analyze for any ripple.
I did notice that my left/right flipper opto boards were slightly different in their solder mask (font and size), and had a red connection on one versus white on the other. Thought it was interesting considering both boards looked original.
I'm SOOOOO close to hitting the delta ramp now...I get just before the diverter. At this point I'm thinking it's time for me to clean the playfield as it's a bit rough in spots, clean the ramps, swap the balls and try to adjust the game to the right level.[quoted image]

Is your FlipTronics board original?

#3224 81 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Both of them appeared to be - yes. I compared them to the rottendog and anarchy boards and neither match. There's also no other markings designating another company.
The failing one looked standard like this one: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3ZonrM97Gs/VIu4igGMDbI/AAAAAAAANKg/nfNBcbQU9q4/s1600/IMG_20141211_121103.jpg

Sorry, I was referring to the FlipTronics ii board in the backbox.

I switched mine out because I was having some issues and noticed my flippers felt snappier after it was installed.

#3228 77 days ago

Does anyone know where I can get a new U5 sound rom? I’ve checked the usual vendors and haven’t been able to locate one.

#3230 77 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

IPDB.orghas the rom file.
Do you know anyone with an EPROM programmer?
https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/star-trek-the-next-generation-sound-rom-set-l-1-u2-u8-bally-williams-roms/
seems to be able to make them... have no affiliation. Random first link found by google search.
I could do it as well; but I'm not sure if I have stock of the right size EPROM.

I found that one, but when I added it to my cart it said it was the “silly” speech rom.

I could have my eprom re-programmed, but I’m not 100% sure it’s a software issue.

#3232 77 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

It probably isn't. I rarely hear of "corrupted" ROMs unless they are left "open" to light. Most have light blocking stickers that prevent them from going corrupt.
That said; I looked at my stash. Have smaller 15, 32, and 512k eproms… but no 27c040's (4Mbit) which the schematics claim U5 is.

Thanks for checking. I’ll send an email to the site you posted and see if an original U5 rom is available.

#3240 73 days ago

Does anyone have part numbers for the wire connectors that go to the 7 opto trough boards?

Mine have been hacked and I’d like to replace them.

#3243 72 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

There are no .156 connectors on the trough opto boards, these are both .100 IDC thru connectors.
Both of these connectors are now obsolete but available if ordered in sufficient quantities.
The original transmitter board connector is a PanCon MAS-CON 22awg 5 pin thru connector https://panconcorp.com/product/pancon-connectors-mas-con-100-idc-wire-to-board-connector-system-through-connectors-non-polarized-ct100f22-5-d/
The original detector board connector is a PanCon MAS-CON 22awg 12 pin thru connector https://panconcorp.com/product/pancon-connectors-mas-con-100-idc-wire-to-board-connector-system-through-connectors-non-polarized-ct100f22-12-c/
Please let me know if you are able to find these anywhere.

Thanks for the info, again! If the price is right, I’d buy a bag of 100 and share with my STTNG friends.

#3245 72 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Amazing response. I’m actually going to copy-paste this in an email to the distributor. it is a top dollar price and they are claiming a full work over on the machine and a 90 day warranty. I will not have an opportunity to play before I buy.

Who else was going through his list thinking “yep, had that, fixed that, still broken, need to check that, oh crap I have that too” ?

#3247 72 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Yet no upvotes.
I speak from experience.
I was just looking at my machine this weekend repairing the Power Driver Board. I had to do more adjustments to be back drop target a day or two because it was shotgunning after repairing it for "Credit dot". My Drop Target was "stripped" due to constant repair which came to a head a couple of years ago at TPF. The three wood screws were stripped and I had to find a toothpick or two for onsite repair before I did a real repair with wood glue when it got home.
I have burned traces which someone repaired. I repaired burnt connectors last time I had it on the bench - even installed new crimp on connectors. Still have broken side plastics and the plastic between neutral and advance rank. I repaired the rear plastic:
I still have ticking timebomb of tieback... lazy, it's 104 with 112 heat index right now. So no chance until winter- maybe.
My local friend has an STNG with the delta damage... and was saying how it bothered him greatly. His he said looked like someone took a Dremel to it. I'm seeing the mylar on mine beginning to bubble. So I know it's going to be a fix needed soon - hopefully an easy repair.
My machine was an Auction machine from unknown heritage - probably a routed game. I paid "top dollar" back in 2007... and it was dirty with all kinds of issues. I still haven't bravely tore down the machine for a real shop and clean. So; if I were paying a distributor "top dollar"; I'd expect him to do it for a "restored game".
Finally - I know this is going to be dismissed as "too expensive"... but given this machine's current market prices... and the fact that this was said:

This right here should give you an immediate pause / WTF moment. You aren't getting a deal. You will be on the upper range of pricing. This game needs to be perfect. DO NOT TRUST the seller - I don't care who it is... unless is direct from HEP himself.
You need to discuss a refundable deposit to hold the game.
Pay Frontier airlines or some other cheap airline.
Go see the game and look at it with your own hands.
If it is an A++ game or you can get a more in line price... then pay them and watch them wrap it up for shipping or whatever.
Just don't "trust the seller"; you'll probably end up regretting it.
Re-Read that above... and seriously consider it. I can't tell you how many times we have heard "stories" and regrets.

Good points. At a minimum, I would share the posting link via pm with a couple of STTNG experts and get their feedback.

#3249 72 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned testing the optos, as this seems to the one of the major pain points for this game. Possibly nobody has mentioned it because flaky optos would be tough to identify in a 30 minute look over? You could use the switch test to make sure they are all working, then do the old "pound my fist on the playfield" to see if any switches flake out. But really, from my experience anyhow, the only way to know if there are flaky optos is to play the game and see if it randomly spits out extra balls.
Replacing all of the optos is no small feat, and in my opinion, is part of the required steps to make this game stable.Then there are the 16 opto board connectors, 12V feeds, etc. What could possibly go wrong? =)

I would have been ecstatic if the only issues my pin had were related to optos.

#3252 71 days ago

I’m getting 5 tones after the initial “bong” on startup. I replaced U5, ribbon cables, etc.. but still getting the same 5 tones.

What else could cause it?

#3255 71 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Have you replaced the ribbon cables between the CPU and sound board?

Yes, I installed a whole new set of ribbon cables.

#3257 71 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

I don’t see a way to do upvotes on my phone and I’m still a pinside noob.
I’ll load up the website on my pc this weekend and give your posts some attention.
I sent you list off to the dealer. They are updating the rom (was LX-5).
There is some ramp damage and they said they will repair or replace it with no added cost. (Showed me a picture). They confirmed repairs to traces, tieback, and the other things with pictures. Rubbers have all been replaced. Balls replaced. The LEDs are premium non-ghosting.
It’s M&P Amusements selling it for $6,495 with a 90 day warranty/support.
https://mpamusement.com/collections/used-pinball-machines/products/star-trek-the-next-generation-pinball-machine
I got my AFMR LE from Game Room Guys a couple of years ago and they took great care of me while I learned the ropes dialing in my first ever pin. At that point I’d never worked a pin before ever. But GRG free phone/email support talked me through taking out the playfield, routine maintenance, etc.
That gave me the confidence I needed to buy a Revenge from Mars that needed some TLC and I’ve done quite well with that one without support.
So I’m comfortable with dealers but appreciate folks experience and value knowing what to look for since each table is so different. This would be my 3rd pin.

$6,500+ shipping ?! Wow

#3260 71 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Yeah, I knew it was high. That’s why I wanted to go in with a punch list of things to ask/check beyond the generic.
If I have confirmed that they or (someone) addressed everything on that list appropriately that’s a lot of time/labor saved for me for now.
So question is, with all those things addressed and a 90 day support window is it worth it?
Worst case I get it. Something blows or got missed, I notice it during the support period, and they send me the part and/or walk me through the repair.
If they have good support, have already addressed the known issues, and I have no intention of ever reselling the pin, is the game worth it?
From everything I’ve read on this thread about maintenance I’m honestly scared to buy this table at all. Let alone from a venue without some kind of support window.
But I don’t want to avoid it either just because stuff will break. I wouldn’t own any.
This pin is cheaper than my AFMR LE but I think I’ll have just as much fun if it arrives in working order. That’s how I am initially determining if it’s “worth it”.

Check out the market place. You can find them $4-5,500 all day long. For $6,500 it better be mint, have color dmd, pinsound, and $500 in quarters in the coin box.

#3271 71 days ago

Having a cracked ramp is normal on these machines, but I would be a little leery since they claim in the ad it had been “fully restored”

“All refurbished pinball machines are fully restored before they leave our shop. We completely tear apart the play field. All ramps, and plastics are hand cleaned. We add all new rubbers, bulbs, and a new play field glass. We also add rebuilt flipper kits, and new parts on the electronic boards.”

For me to pay $6,500 it would have to have everything perfect and then add: laser canons, ocd boards, pinsound, dual amplifier kit, aftermarket speakers, custom borg ship, zitt led bird of prey, etc..

It should have every bell and whistle available (not about glued on toys).

I agree with others and don’t see how that warranty will be worth anything.

I hope the sale goes well and it’s everything they claim it is. If so, you’ll enjoy it. It’s a great game.

1 week later
#3325 61 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

pinless … I ordered some 4Mbit eeproms from a China "pull" vendor … just so I had some on hand.
I'm assuming you're good... or you got a prom from PinGuy. If not; let me know.

I was able to locate one, thanks! It still didn’t resolve my “5 tones after the bong” issue though.

After I finally get all of the issues resolved with this pin the only part left untouched may be the coin door.

My new cabinet should be here in a couple weeks. Trying to figure out what I should do with the original cabinet that needs some repair work.

#3368 55 days ago

I’ve noticed when I hit the delta ramp that 99.99% of the time the ball gets diverted back down the wire form ramp. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it get sent to the borg ship and launched out.

I recently played STTNG on location and found it relatively easy to get the ball into the borg ship.

Could there be an issue that causes the diverter to not allow any balls into the ship?

#3374 55 days ago
Quoted from etien:

yeah, still puzzled about that, havent got a lock lit on the borg ship for a very long time as well. I know the ROM is trying to acheive a certain ratio of multi ball per game by NOT lligthing the lock lit on the neutral zone and/or the borg ship, but this is really anoying. Any idea what should be the setting to maximize the lock lit on the borg ship that I always find rewarding? ( got the latest ROM )

I think there has to be either a setting, ROM or a bad switch keeping the lock from lighting.

I’ve played my pin 50+ times and i can’t remember it ever locking.

I played a couple STTNG’s on location and had the lock lit on my first couple of quarters.

#3379 54 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Nope, there is a delta ramp entry opto failure with the game on location that is not causing the ball diverter coil to not energize.

If I were to take the glass off to test the lock, what sequence of switches must be hit?

#3383 54 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You made me play my game...
Game1:
On ball 1 with no balls locked, as soon as I hit the top drop target to light locks (not at ball launch) the Delta ramp was flashing...and locked ball 1 into the Borg Ship.
Game2:
Ball launch, hit Beta ramp for flipper skill shot, passed to left flipper, hit drop target to lock light and Delta ramp was flashing, hit delta ramp and locked ball 1 in Borg ship.
Game 3:
Ball launch, chose lite lock at ball launch to lock ball one. Hit upper drop target to light lock, Delta ramp was flashing, hit Delta ramp to lock ball 2 in Borg ship.
Seems like it should be pretty easy to lock after all ....

I would say ... maybe. What game code are you running?

I’m running LX7. Thanks for checking the sequence. I’ll compare it to my game once it’s back up and running this weekend.

#3385 52 days ago

I finally figured out what was causing my F103,104 & 105 to blow on startup. It drove me crazy for a couple weeks. I probably went through $30 worth of fuses.

A failed transistor on the (brand new) auxiliary driver board was causing the blanking circuit to not operate when the pin was powered on.

I would have never thought there was anything on the aux board that could affect it, but it definitely does.

Thanks to Pin_Guy, Zaza and Chris Hibler for the countless messages trying to help me diagnose it. You guys are awesome.

#3398 49 days ago

I swear my STTNG is cursed. I fix 2 things and then 2 other things start acting up. It’s non-stop.

The background music is cutting out randomly. Other sound effects are still working, but it’s oddly silent while you’re playing. A few seconds later the music comes back.

#3400 49 days ago

Can someone share a picture of what the wire connections for the drop target switch are supposed to look like?

Found a loose wire and a sketchy connection on mine and want to put it back like it’s supposed to be

B3B6F247-6D49-444E-B42F-675BA47C6BFE (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#3433 40 days ago

Does anyone know where I could find a set of next gen (licensed) back box decals?

They appear to be unobtainium at the moment.

1 week later
#3476 29 days ago

Santa Claus is coming early this year

B5E3D79A-D576-4234-BDA1-FB8B747C5189 (resized).jpegBC5CE26D-9BE4-4B75-84A7-C7AB94572C3B (resized).jpeg
#3480 29 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Outstanding job on the cabinet!
How much fun was it getting those side rails off?
PM me if you need the "Warranty Void if Removed" Serial Number Labels. I have these in a .doc MS word file.
The bar code is easy to make you just need a Code 39 bar code generator to make the image ... fortunately you can generate one from here https://www.morovia.com/free-online-barcode-generator/

I can’t take any credit for the cabinet. I ordered a brand new one from VirtuaPin. It should show up next week.

Now If I can just get it playing as good as it’s going to look...

#3483 29 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Does that mean those photos were taken by VirtuaPin? That’s a pretty damn good advertisement for them

Yes, Paul took them before they wrapped everything up for shipment.

If anyone needs a cabinet, I would highly recommend him. He bent over backwards to fix a fleabay decal issue for me when he didn’t have to. He went way above and beyond. Can’t thank him enough.

I ended up with a nice set of licensed decals (still waiting on the backbox decals to become available again)

#3488 28 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

Where you got decals?

Planetary Pinball

http://www.planetarypinball.com/

I was told it would be a month or two until they print more backbox decals.

#3489 28 days ago

When my STTNG starts the Borg ship mode the borg ship displays on the DMD and you see the Borg aliens, but the machine seems to lose the ball.

It immediately stops the Borg ship mode and reverts to normal play. There’s no ball on the playfield and it eventually starts cycling through the ball locator process.

I’ve checked the optos and they seem to work fine. Any ideas?

#3491 28 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Check your trough optos. the game may think you're draining

If it thought the ball drained, wouldn’t it go to the next ball and launch it into the plunger?

It’s like the ball just disappeared into the subway, but when I checked the subway optos they seem to respond fine.

#3493 27 days ago

I just noticed it’s also repeatedly loading and launching the left cannon in attract mode

#3494 27 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Check your trough optos. the game may think you're draining

Bingo. Even though they seemed to register when I loaded the trough, several transmitters are not working when I double checked with an old school point and shoot camera.

Thanks!!

#3497 27 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks. Don't be so skeptical next time, I have learned not to apply logic to this game! haha

Another STTNG lesson learned! This game is brutal to bring back from the dead.

I’ve also learned new parts can cause new problems-STTNG lesson #127

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