(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (9 months ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (9 months ago)


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#2695 8 months ago

Quick question. Tonight I managed to smash the glass for my translite. Grrrrr.... The translite came away relatively undamaged, although it already had a few blemishes.

Has anyone bought the CPR mirrored backglass? I’m considering it but wanted some feedback.

This game will be the death of me. I’m just starting to bring it back to life. One cannon loom replaced today, I’m sure I’ll find more stuff wrong tomorrow. Just now starting the restore process. Trying to decide if this game is worthy of a full restore. It needs virtually everything. Playfield has wear, cabinet needs redone, etc...

#2698 8 months ago

Thanks for the feedback. I guess I'll just stick to finding regular glass. Honestly, I think I'll fix my STTNG and flip it for a better one. Mine simply needs too much to consider restoring it. Anyone want a players condition STTNG in the Louisville, KY area? =)

2 months later
#2877 6 months ago

Does anyone else ever get to this point and think "what the @#^& did I get myself into"? =)

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#2880 6 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Hope you made plenty of pictures

Oh I did. Still a daunting task!

1 week later
#2918 5 months ago

I’m in the process or reassembling my sttng and have a question. I bought all new posts (star and straight). I was assembling the slingshot area today and noticed that the straight posts are taller than the star posts. So the slingshot plastic would be bent if I attach all 3 of the acorn nuts. Bowed in the center when it connects to the center star post. Is that normal? Seems odd, but I think I have the right posts...

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#2922 5 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Or file 1/16" off the straight posts you have. Agree, that doesn't sound right.

I suppose I could. I guess my bigger question is, how did it ship from the factory?

Prior to tear down, I took the attached picture. You'll note that there's a large washer on the bottom star post. Perhaps it served two purposes: to protect the sling plastic, and to increase the height of the star post so it's the same as the straight post. Maybe. Still though, the middle star post would be at a lower height, and I suppose I could not fully tighten the nut on that one.

Surely others have seen this and can chime in on how theirs are set up?

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#2926 5 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Not sure if this helps you but here's a picture of how mine are set up:[quoted image]

Thanks, yours looks nice and level. I guess I'll have to ditch the full-under plastic guard and revert back to some sort of washer setup. Rather have that than bent plastics...

#2931 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You could add #6/#8 washers to shim up the shorter posts.

That’s what I ended up doing. Only downside is there’s not much thread for the nylon nut to screw onto. But it looks like it’ll hold....

1 week later
#2966 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I'm not trying to knock the machine as it appears to be in decent shape for its age, but there is no way to estimate a value without seeing the entire machine.
I'm wouldnt jump on giving it any value so soon without having pictures of the under playfield wiring, backbox boards and connectors, neutral zone hole (single highest damage spot in the game) etc... the game also has no mods at (not that that's bad), cabinet and head damage, insert ghosting, something odd going on with the lock in the head (never seen that before).

Not to mention damaged ramps, damaged subway, etc. I paid $3,950 for my STTNG last year and honestly it was too much. Needed all new ramps and plastics. Connector issues. I could go on. Oh well...

1 week later
#2984 4 months ago

Has anyone overcome the issue shown below? I have the exact same issue and am not excited about modifiying my brand new ramp....

Quoted from simplykind:

Has anyone installed the protectors for the alpha ramp? They dont line up on mine, almost need to modify the ramp. Im hesitant to cut off the corners of a brnad new ramp. And it seems like the posts need to be higher.

[quoted image][quoted image]

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#3015 4 months ago

I’m finally getting back to my STTNG rebuild. This mornings fun was the “missing” pop bumper cap. I used the template from this website (thanks!!):
https://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/sttng_pop_bumper/sttng_pop_bumper.html

I couldn’t find my hack saw so I used a coping saw. It worked out fine. Then I used some fine sandpaper to clean up the edges. Next I used a dremel to put the bevel on it, and once again cleaned things up with fine sandpaper. Finally some Nouvs #2 to polish it up.

I’m happy with how it turned. Hopefully it doesn’t interfere with the ramp.

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#3019 4 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

But... But... What about my popcaps? The come pre-cut to fit under that ramp. ;D

What, you can’t make them yourself?

1 week later
#3059 4 months ago

I just finished stapling the pop bumper lamp leads into place and soldering the wires back onto them. What a pain. Glad it’s done. Thanks pin_guy for the detailed post with pics, it came in very handy.

#3067 4 months ago

I’ve been steadily reassembling my game today. Can’t wait to get it done!
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1 week later
#3106 3 months ago

I’m closing in on my STTNG refurb. Topside is nearly complete. Today I focused on rebuilding all of the VUK and subway opto boards. I’m trying to replace every opto on the game, and do it as cheaply as possible. I also replaced all of the topside cherry switches. Hoping this machine runs without problems for 5 or 10 years...

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#3108 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Looks great! Where did you get those custom instruction cards on the apron?

They were on the game when I got it. So not sure. I was going to swap them out for originals, ha.

Looks like I have one GI circuit out. Not surprised, I’ve really tore this machine apart. It was well used. I’m sure I’ll have my share of board and connector issues to fix too. One thing at a time...

#3124 3 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

In order to fix the spring, all I needed was the 3/8 (I think) nut driver and a screwdriver. I was at work when I responded earlier, but I just got home and saw your question so I re-created my work to check myself. I took a few pictures to show it also. First, remove the 4 nuts & bolts that are holding the gun on the cabinet. Then you'll see a round piece held in by two screws. When you unscrew them and remove that piece, you get access to the cylinder (probably not the right technical name for it though) that the trigger pushes forward to fire. The cylinder has a spacer type piece on it along with the spring that pushes it back to fire again. If your issue is just with one of those pieces then you can get at it with the nut driver & screwdriver. If there's a deeper issue then you need to have the security tool to open the gun in half. I don't have that tool and I found my issue was the broken spring so I didn't have to try to open the gun assembly into it's halves. I don't know what else might be in there other than the trigger. Might be worth opening it up just this far to check the spring and cylinder to see if those are the problem though. Here are pics I just snapped as I took it apart so you can see what you can get at without the security tool:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for that. I suspect my spring is broken too as my trigger is sloppy. I have the spring, just need to make time...

#3137 3 months ago

Found the short on my GI circuit this morning. What a PIA that was. My method: disconnect J120/J121 on the driver board. Then connect my meter across the leads of a socket on the shorted circuit. With the meter set to “continuity”, it beeps constantly due to the short. Then, I started finding the sockets on the circuit and usoldered a lead from each of them until I disconnectd one and the beeping stopped - problem socket found. Of course, if the beeping didn’t stop when I disconnected one, I immediately reconnected it. Anyhow, a solder splash has got on the bad socket, and unfortunately got up inside it. For now, I bypassed it. Problem solved, yeah!!

Also, I replaced every opto transmitter/receiver on the subway and VUK units, so I wanted to test them. I cut a strip of white paper to slip between them. It didn’t work. Apparently they are strong enough to shine through white paper. I had to add a piece of black electrical tape to the paper before it’d actually register a switch closure. Guess they are working really, really good!

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#3138 3 months ago

Top side is done, well, for the most part. My left flipper flips but doesn’t work in video mode, need to fix that. My gun spring is broke, add it to the list. I have some random problem with balls not being detected in the trough despite new boards. My display sometimes randomly gets fuzzy. My back box flashers aren’t working. Lol, don’t ya love pinball? I’ll tackle this issues one at a time, as STTNG is worth the effort.

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#3141 3 months ago

Just curious, does anyone know the correct lamp socket part number to replace the one shown in my post from a few days ago? It’s GI, under playfield mount, 44 bulb. Just don’t want to hunt and peck on Marco and hope I have it right...

1 week later
#3152 3 months ago

One would think that there would be an adjustment for the ball save timer (Return to Duty), yet, I see none. I assume it’s not there, or am I somehow overlooking it?

#3155 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Does anyone know the part # for this switch under the cannon?[quoted image]

Technically I think they were Cherry DA3C-B1AA, which are NLA.

I have been using DB3C-B1AA switches, which require more force to actuate. I have them on all of my STTNG ramps and so far they've been fine. More details are in the post below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games#post-4941787

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/zf-electronics/db3c-b1aa/?qs=Z9t1pRjfOcyNm7XI%2Fy9Iqw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Edited post since my pic wasn't working...

#3157 3 months ago
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#3158 3 months ago

I can’t claim that my above pic is totally stock, but the spacer most likely is. It was taken pre-restore, it’s much shinier now with new screws, washers and a lot of elbow grease.

#3165 3 months ago

Has anyone seen an issue where a shot to the Neutral Zone will register as if you shot the holodeck/lock hole? It happens on occasion on my machine. Worth noting is that I recently replaced all of the subway optos. Also worth nothing is that I also replaced the center (large) Neutral Zone target, and it's not dialed in. So sometimes a ball will go into the Neutral Zone hole without registering a hit on any of the Neutral Zone targets.

I *think* there's an opto between the holodeck hole and the Neutral Zone hole - I suppose a shot to the Neutral Zone could be rolling backwards up the subway and triggering that opto. It's my only explanation, just wondered if anyone has this issue.

#3179 3 months ago

Damn game. I finished dialing mine in tonight and it’s an #@;$,! kicker. I think the wife and I both prefer it over WOZ. Perhaps it’s the relative simplicity. Dunno, but STTNG holds its own against most any game out there, including TZ which is my favorite.

Is it just me, or do modern games consistently fall short of STTNG? Maybe I just need to spend more time on one, but I’ve yet to find anything modern that felt comparable...

#3184 3 months ago

I replaced my stock sub with this today:
amazon.com link »

In short, it was an easy add. The mounting holes lined up and the spade connectors matched the original. But, it added virtually nothing in terms of bass, which I guess is to be expected. I supposed one needs to alter the back box to cabinet volume, which isn’t the clearest thing to do on DCS with stock backbox speakers.

Given that, I hooked my 10” Polk sub up to the game. Man, it really adds some bass. But even it that, it seems like mids are missing.

I may modify the sound board to alter the back box to cabinet volume, to see if I pick up mids.

I understand it’s not a high end sound system, but I think i can make it better...

#3187 3 months ago

I like the idea of amplified, is it pulling 12vdc from the game or does it have its own power supply?

#3190 3 months ago

My game rebooted mid game tonight. I guess I’ll should have expected it, as it did it fairly often when I bought it. I’ve already replaced the caps and bridges on the driver board. On to headers and connectors I suppose. And maybe some jumpers for the caps and bridges, just to be sure.

Older WPC takes some patience and skill....

1 week later
#3214 86 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

I am in the club

Welcome aboard.

1 week later
#3248 73 days ago

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned testing the optos, as this seems to the one of the major pain points for this game. Possibly nobody has mentioned it because flaky optos would be tough to identify in a 30 minute look over? You could use the switch test to make sure they are all working, then do the old "pound my fist on the playfield" to see if any switches flake out. But really, from my experience anyhow, the only way to know if there are flaky optos is to play the game and see if it randomly spits out extra balls.

Replacing all of the optos is no small feat, and in my opinion, is part of the required steps to make this game stable.Then there are the 16 opto board connectors, 12V feeds, etc. What could possibly go wrong? =)

#3251 73 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Valid points but like you said, it's hard to test all of those even playing 10 games you may not see a problem and then have random balls spit out on game 11. Or you could play 20 with no problems, transport it home and have all sorts of issues but then I guess that's always a possibility with a pinball machine.

Agreed. I might ask if they replaced any of the optos. Or better yet, all of the optos. If I were going to pay a premium for an STTNG, it's something I'd want to know had been addressed. In reality, the parts are cheap (if you buy raw LEDs and photo transistors). But the labor to install them sucks. You can't replace them all without totally disassembling the machine. Top and bottom side.

But to your point, you may not learn of a problem until 50 games in. In my case, I replaced every opto in the game and still, on a very, very rare occasion, get a random multi-ball. So I have some problem other than the opto itself. The opto board, bad connectors, who knows. I have the parts to replace every opto board header and connector (as well as the driver board connector, I already replaced that header and rebuilt the 12V circuit), but finding the time and motivation to do it is another story. =)

I can't imagine owning a STTNG without having the ability to do repairs. I would never sign up for fixing one for someone else either. Too many variables. Can you imagine taking on someone else's random multi-ball problem, and trying to do it at their house? Nope. I'm sure I'd get call back after call back. But honestly, that's why I stopped fixing machines for others....it's like fixing a car from the 70s and then having the person get pissed when it breaks down a week later, unrelated to what you already fixed. My 2 cents anyhow...

#3261 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Check out the market place. You can find them $4-5,500 all day long. For $6,500 it better be mint, have color dmd, pinsound, and $500 in quarters in the coin box.

Agreed. $6,500 is retail price, which is what this is. Certainly you can find a nice one for $1k cheaper. Maybe $2k cheaper. I paid $3,950 for mine, but it needed a ton of work. I bet I have close to $6k in it, but it’s fully rebuilt with a ton of new parts. All ramps, plastics, mech rebuilds, etc. In hindsight, I paid too much. But I love the machine...

#3268 72 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

This is a good datapoint too. This is the exact scenario I’m afraid of with searching for a deal. Not to mention your time is worth something too. So I’d say you have well over 6k into it.

To be fair, I knew most of what my game needed before buying it. I truly love the game and restoration process.

Why not find someone reputable on pinside within driving distance that has one for sale?

Here’s mine, all rainbow puked up, lol.
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#3273 72 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I feel like poeple seem to have confused “cleaned” and “shopped out” with “restored” and “retro-modded” somewhere along the way.
Cleaned = cleaned up. Topside cleaned, burned lamps replaced, everything inspected and repaired as necessary to keep the game working right.
Shopped = topside and bottom deep (tear down) cleaned, repaired, new rubber and balls, relamped, totally working... like it was pulled from the route and taken to the shop to be freshened up before it’s next location. Refurbished is probably a fair term for this these days. I can understand why people consider this a “restore” since it only really happens on the ex route or reimport games these days it seems.
Restored (almost no one actually does this) = restored to as close to new condition as possible. Game should be damn near perfect with nothing broken. That game would have new or unbroken everything with negligible wear... or it would be replaced,
.
Resto-mod (what most people do) = restored to new condition with the addition of new parts that basically make it “better”... upgraded lamps, color display, new more reliable mechs and boards etc. This is what dudes like HEP and BK do.
At $6500 honestly you’re getting a shopped game seenev and I actually think that’s pretty fair, with the cost of parts and value of labor there is no way you’re getting a $5k game “restored” for $6500 these days, I personally would feel a lot better at $5500 shopped but people gotta make $$... that’s why so many of us look for un-shopped games!

I agree with this, for the most part. I say I’m doing a restoration on mine, but I don’t re-do the cabinet. I simply don’t have the time or skill. I kept my original playfield which is nice, but has some minor wear. I did replace all ramps, plastics, posts, and most of the screws / nuts. So mine is what?

I wish I had the ambition to learn cabinet restoration, but it just looks like too much damn work.

#3275 72 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I’d say you shopped or refurbished it, but it’s yours man, say what makes you feel good.
I have ONE GAME I’d call restored myself (more like resto-modded, it has a lot of upgrades) and I sure didn’t do it... I just do shop jobs of varying quality, lol.
The goal (for me) isn’t to make it new, just to make it look and play nice.

Yeah, I agree. Beyond shopping, I am doing a fairly drastic electrical overhaul. I guess I don’t see that as part of a shop job. I always thinking of shopping as what you’d do to a route game before putting it back on route. I think I took it well beyond that. And I’ll keep going. But like you, I just want it to be nice, playable, and reliable. A game with errors is not acceptable in my house. It has to be back to factory spec. So totally mechanically rebuilt, and electrically functional with whatever upgrades I can do to improve reliability. All part of the fun, no small feat for an old WPC machine...

#3276 72 days ago

And just because I love the big Lebowski (the movie, never been graced with playing the elusive pin)....

No offense meant, just having fun.

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#3306 67 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Thanks for all the advice and insights folks. I decided to pass on the STNG because higher resolution photos showed more playfield wear than I am comfortable with for the price they are asking.
Their techs seemed quite sharp and knowledgeable. I floated a bid by the owner for a playfield swap but he would rather not go that route. Playfield swap and color DMD would have pushed the price to at least $9,500.
Kinda bummed/exhausted from the exercise. I see several for sale here on pinside that seem to have nice playfields but I’d have to start over with asking about condition, service, etc.
I’m starting to think I just don’t have the chops to go into used pin purchases informed enough or skilled enough to avoid disasters and money pits of one form or another.
Maybe I should stick to new ones.

Where do you live? Maybe there’d be some local pinhead willing to help. STTNG is a really great game, but you made the right choice. For that price you could have a NIB machine, and a high end one at that. Still though, my STTNG gets way more play than my WOZ. More than my TZ, although it’s always my first love. STTNG is one of the top games I’ve ever owned.

This is the second STTNG I’ve owned. The first one I painstakingly refurbished for my brother in-law and gave it to him as a present (when pinball was still affordable). He kept it for years, but then got mixed up with drugs. As best I know, he sold it and a Roadshow that I let him borrow. Never saw the machines again or him and my sister. I’m not bitter, as his machine gave me the opportunity to learn how awesome a machine it is. Still to this day it’s my wife’s favorite.

Don’t do heroin. Stick to the lesser evils, ha ha. Funny, kinda.

#3308 67 days ago

Well this thread is a bit of an open forum, unless someone complains, ha ha. If you were closer I’d offer up help, but I’m in KY. Still though, this group is always willing to help when we can. I’ve done so much work to my STTNG, I think I have all of the bugs worked out. Maybe.

Family. They were just that, so I let it go. Hard to watch people so close to you degrade. They were making well over $250k a year, business owners, one was a lawyer. The higher they rise, the harder they fall. Sad stuff. Heroin is no joke. Makes me scared for my own kids...

#3317 66 days ago

Did some sound board work tonight. I replaced the two large caps (C20 and C21), and because it was already out of the machine, I also replace C32 and C41.

Now for the fun part. I have an external sub hooked up to my machine but found the bass to still be a bit lacking. So, I removed R39 from the board and made a small rig to let me adjust the bass. I put a 4.7K resistor inline with a 10K potentiometer, in a small wire harness, covering all exposed stuff with heat shrink tubing. Even if the pot gets set to 0 ohms, there’s at least 4.7K inline in the circuit. Admittedly I’ll never set the pot to 0 ohms, but I do have more bass control now. Yeah, it’s a bit of a hack. But I never intend to sell this machine, so I don’t care. Things rattle in the room now when I play the machine. I’m loving it!

And everyone was right about the Hakko 808. I got my parts for it today and used it. OMG I didn’t know what I was missing. The smaller caps and resistor literally fell out of the board. The snap caps were a different story, of course...

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#3321 65 days ago

Has anyone 100% solved the random multi ball problem?

Mine spits out an extra ball on the playfield every 50 games or so. I got to thinking, maybe it’s because a ball rolled backward in the ball trough, past an opto, the reversed course and flagged the opto again.

Just wondering if the above is possible, or maybe there’s still something elusive wrong with my machine.

#3326 59 days ago

Over the past few days I’ve been rebuilding the 16 opto board, replaced all headers and removed / replaced the solder on the large resistors.

Today I put the board back in, reconnected everything and powered up the machine. All seemed good until I closed the coin door. The machine rebooted. I wasn’t the slam tilt switch, as it doesn’t work. Then I noticed that F105 was blown - no high power to the solenoids. So, I replaced F105 and it blows the instant I close the coin door.

I looked around the opto board to see if I shorted something and there’s nothing obvious. The driver board tie-back is still in place.

I’m venting as much as anything. The rebooting thing is odd. It seems like it has to be a dead short?

#3329 59 days ago

Thanks for the help. I’m confident in my soldering skills. I’ve been fixing machines for over 20 years, and it took a good few of them to learn. I ruined a handful of boards in the beginning and since then have figured out how to do things correctly. Unfortunately, whoever had the game before me did their share of damage. There were a few questionable repairs on the opto board, but I toned them out and everything seems ok. I actually had the board in the machine yesterday with the new headers and everything was working fine. But I saw how bad the solder joints were on the resistors and it was bothering me so I pulled the board again today to clean it up.

The reset was definitely a hard reset. There were no diagonal lines on the dmd nor the annoying buzz sound. It seems like it has to be unrelated to F105, but it’s an odd coincidence. And I recently replaced the bridge, caps, 5V regulator (with an EZSBC) and the 5V headers. Needless to say I’m on a mission to stabilize the game.

I’ll check for a short tonight. I’m down the (1) 3 amp sb fuse. Seems like they are hard to source locally. On that note, even the ones I have seem shorter than the originals and fit looser than I want. What is the right size fuse and who carries them?

Hopefully I can find the short after the kids go to bed. They suck up most of my free time, leaving little for pinball anymore.

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#3330 59 days ago

And yeah, I see that the 8 driver board is unrelated to this. I should do my research before posting.

#3331 59 days ago

The oddities continue. I pulled J130 and stole the fuse from F101 since it’s not used, made sure it was 3asb and fired up the machine. The fuse didn’t blow. So I plugged in J130 and it still didn’t blow. And everything works. Lovely, I may have an intermittent issue.

When I bought the game it did odd stuff, resetting mid game, scrambled dmd, etc. I still haven’t pulled the CPU as I’m waiting on nvram to arrive on a slow boat from China. Once it gets here I’ll pull that board, replace the critical headers and fix any questionable solder joints.

Next will be to replace a bazillion connectors.

The machine truly is a labor of love. One can only hope I’ll get 5 or 10 good years of stability from mine once done. All optos replaced, mechanically rebuilt, driver board rebuilt, sound board caps replaced and a bass adjuster mod added. But it is a STTNG, so who knows. But mine plays like one mean machine. I’m loving it!

#3332 59 days ago

Worth noting - the other 3 amp sb fuses I had were the cheap ones, a single wire with a blob of metal in the middle. Maybe they are just inferior?

#3335 59 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I have quite a few cheap pulls that work fine, bought extra at the time and would have happily sent you one but I'm not sure I have spare sockets.

Thanks, I really appreciate the offer! I bought 10 cheap ones from China, I assume they’ll be pulls. They should be here hopefully in the next few days. I ordered them a few weeks ago. I bought 10 sockets too, so I’m set up to do 10 games if all of the pulls work. But thanks for the gracious offer.

I redid half of the opto board connectors tonight. I guess 18 pins is enough for an evening. I’ll try and knock out the other two connectors tomorrow. I think I’ll leave the .156” connector alone since Williams opted to put 2 wires in a few of the pins. I hate it when they do that, seems like there’s no easy solution for repinning. I usually crimp one wire, solder the other two to it and heat shrink the connection. It’s a PITA...

#3339 59 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

For what it’s worth, I repinned the .156 connector by doubling up the wires into a single pin. Fixed the remaining issues I was having with the 16-opto board and I did not have to repin the smaller connectors.

Thanks, I may give that a try. It'll bother me that it's the only connector related to the board that hasn't been replaced.

#3342 59 days ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

It ended up being the Rosin Flux I was using. Not supposed to be conductive but it was generating super high resistance shorts. They were underneath the sockets too which made things so much worse.

Good to know. Of course, that’s where a lot of the questionable old rework is on my board. How do you remove the old rosin? Fresh stuff comes up easily with alcohol and a toothbrush. That old stuff is stubborn!

#3347 58 days ago

I have an ultrasonic cleaner but am reluctant to put boards in it, especially one that’s already had questionable repairs. What cleaning solution do you use in one with boards?

#3349 58 days ago

pin_guy you are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks!

#3351 58 days ago

Replaced all of the .100” connectors tonight. I was going to do the .156” but the biggest Molex connector I have is 12 pin. Another night I suppose. The new connectors pass the wiggle test and a handful of games, of course. Hoping all of my work to this board kills any random mulitball problems, but we shall see!

3335C0AE-7A87-4832-8CE2-590193B76DE4 (resized).jpeg
#3355 58 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Clean dirty sections that you need to service with alcohol; otherwise, if it's ugly, dirty and ain't broke, don't fuck with it and play the damn game!

I enjoy the board work. Have for years. So it’s a win-win. I get to have fun and the boards hopefully will live on a lot longer.

I’d love to learn a better way to repair bad traces, outside of using jumpers. Jumpers work, but it’s not the prettiest solution....

#3360 58 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

And a CPU board I worked on:[quoted image]

Scrubbing bubbles?

1 week later
#3397 51 days ago

Some days you get lucky. Was going to remove my ram today and install nvram. Pulled the cpu and the ram was already in a socket. As best I know they never did that from the factory, but whomever installed the socket did an excellent job, looks original. Popped in an nvram, removed the battery holder and replaced J210. Up and running again, wish all board work was that easy!

1 week later
#3442 40 days ago
Quoted from pinfarmer:

Here is a photo of my new decal sets. Excuse the yellowed old shuttle for illustrating fitment.
Hit me up if you need some.[quoted image]

The decals look great! For what it’s worth, I used the hydrogen peroxide trick on my shuttle and borg ship, and it worked great. It took years of yellowing off of them.

#3445 39 days ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Just got mine in from Pinball Wizard (Ministry was out).
https://www.pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/p2957_translite_star_trek_next_generation_williams_pinball_flipperkast.html
Before:
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image]
MASSIVE improvement!! Now I just need to LED this bad boy!

What’d you do with the old translite? I’d love to find a mint original, as mine has a few decent scratches.

2 weeks later
#3503 23 days ago

The mylar on my right orbit was in rough shape so I removed it while shopping the machine. Mistake. I didn’t notice the damage until a few days ago. New Mylar in place, but the damage is done. Oh well, it’s a player machine and I still love it dearly. Lol

62452273-A20B-4C46-8AD5-76FDB925B073 (resized).jpeg6E6128DF-21A1-42ED-99EA-03BCA1CD6579 (resized).jpeg
#3507 23 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

PinJim; somewhere I saw a pinball company selling a waterslide decal for that place.
I think it was overseas; maybe ministry of pinball.
That should be fairly easy to repair when you want.
Mine also has mylar bubbling there; but I haven't made any effort to correct because of stories like yours and a local friend of mine.
Maybe one day I'll strip the PF and give it some attention. But given the complexity of the PF; I think it'll be a project I tackle when I retire from Day job.

Thanks, I’ll have to search for them.

I probably wasn’t 100% clear in my original post. I had zero damage there when I bought the machine, and the artwork didn’t come off when I removed the old mylar. The damage was a product of having no mylar there and playing a few hundred games. It was an error on my part. I assumed the diamond plate could handle the ball drop. Apparently not.

1 week later
#3530 16 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Anyone have a spare Alpha ramp? I know new ones can be purchased, but was hoping someone that did a restore had a decent condition one that they're not going to use.

I have a used one that most likely has some damage at the entrance. I’m away from home now but can take pics when I get home. If you want it, you can have it for the price of shipping.

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