Star Trek: The Next Generation
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Picked up a project STTNG recently. Have some ball trough opt problems. Just order brand new opt for it and installed them and the one is working and the other isn’t. When I first plugged in the inside opt it worked and now it doesn’t.. any thoughts guys..
I am missing a connector on the outside trough so I solder on the wires directly to the board until I get some more connector pins. Any thoughts?
7845C59E-80A3-4B8E-A994-FA6763F9E4BE (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:I took these pictures of the optos at the trough on my STTNG. Is this what you're looking for? Hope it helps. I can take a picture at a different angle if you need it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you! Looks like the grey/yellow wires are attached the first pin together. What pin is the black wire attached to?
Quoted from EaglePin:No problem. Happy to try to help. Here is another set of pictures of both the small connector and the big connector. I took two pictures of each connector: 1 showing the view from the front as you look from the apron toward it and 1 from behind the connector looking out toward the apron. The black wire for each connector seems to be connected to the third spot from the left as you're looking into the machine from the apron. Let me know if you need any other shots of them.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you I see it now. The black wire looks like it's on the third pin..
Quoted from Pin_Guy:These assemblies are very easy to remove with the subway off, each one has a single molex connector and 4 screws, they come right off.[quoted image]
Yes they are plus its a good way to check all those opts to make sure they are working too. I had a few transmitters out on my game and it was causing some weird issues..
Where is the Borg Lock switch? It says switch 31 but I don’t see it on the playfield picture in the manual.
0F5E104E-1B06-4B60-AE58-AD83CB5487FE (resized).png
Added over 5 years ago: Found it at the top opt inside the back of the ship. Not sure why it isn’t in the manual..
Nevermind I found it.. I am having an issue with a couple of opt switches
Switch 33 right gun switch 2
Switch 43 Left lock switch 4
Both aren’t working correctly. Replace the transmitter for both. I am not getting power to either switch.
Added over 5 years ago:Fixed loose connection on opt board..
All the switches in the row are working except for those two.
82CC9E1D-12BE-4603-8C29-804B8FD80D72 (resized).jpeg
Added over 5 years ago: Fixed bad connection on opt board
Thanks, I checked all connections and everything is working now except switch 37 under right gun switch 1 so I checked switches 27 and 47 around that switch and they are both working.i have continuity on the white/violet wire between all three switches in that row too. Thought maybe there would be a broken connection. I don’t see any broken wires off those switches. The voltage isn’t correct on the transmitter it says -12
According to the switch matrix that switch 37 is on the white/violet wire but I don’t see that color wire on the opt.. I see a grey/yellow, black, orange/black, and grey/purple attached to the transmitter and receiver -colors could be off I am recalling from memory earlier. Am I reading this switch matrix wrong?
33AF070B-35EB-4864-B38E-161583337420 (resized).jpegQuoted from ajfclark:The optos feed to the 16 opto controller board don't they? So you'd have the correct colours at J5 on that board?
Yes, I believe that is correct. But my question is once it goes into the 16opt controller board the wires must come out of the board a different color for that switch back to the cpu correct? I get continuity from the switch to the 16opt controller board, but when I go from the switch 37 to the cpu I don't get continuity. Any thoughts?
Quoted from jathomp22:Did you check all the switches in that row? When I had 2 bad optos like that a wire disconnected from a different switch in the row. And bc STTNG is notorious for opto problems I didn’t look for a loose wire at first.
All the other switches work in that row. I'll double check later tonight..
Alright I have continuity at all points, switches around 37 in row and columns. Continuity to the 16opt board and to cpu.
Picture of switch 37 below.
Transmitter appears to be grey/blue
Receiver appears to be orange/violet
FC2BB2AD-3AF7-458D-B58A-D141A00D5BB8 (resized).jpegB59BC0FD-B606-4B55-A546-33FFB90EBCDF (resized).jpeg
Quoted from bobukcat:Did I miss something and you fixed the problem where you have 12V at the emitter instead of ~1.5V but the switch still doesn't work? If you point your cell phone camera at the emitter is it glowing?
I'll double check this evening..
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Sorry, I missed this information from your earlier post. Since you are measuring -12V you have your test leads backwards with the red lead on ground (black wires).
Why you have a reading of 12V...
12V is the source voltage for the circuit, however there is a current limiting resistor on the opto board that drops the forward voltage going to the IR LED to roughly 1.4V (there are many variables); this is a good thing as the maximum rated voltage for this specific part is 1.7V.
There is only two things that can cause this reading...
1) The IR LED is blown open ... this is an extremely rare failure mode for a diode.
OR
2) The diode is installed backwards or miswired placing the positive voltage on cathode and ground on the anode resulting in a reverse biased condition preventing any current flow through the diode.
I can see from your posted image that the second condition is true as you clearly have the black wires (ground) on the anode (A) and the source voltage (current limited 12V) on the cathode (K). Reverse the positions of these two wires and it should work fine.
[quoted image]
After fixing the wiring on the recipter and messing with the connector now the opt next to it stopped working. I think I have a bad connection of the 16 opt board. So I am going to start replacing the connectors and see what happens. Thanks for your help.
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Mechanicsville, VA