Don't see replacement borg ships available anywhere, surprised this part hasn't been remade yet, am I just not finding it? Without a replacement I see 2 options, get them custom painted, but I'm more of an original parts guy, or bleaching them with some sort of chemical? And I assume replacing the blue windows if I go that option.

That is correct, the bracket with the circular groove worn into it is what causes the plunger to stick, change that and it won't stick any more. That problem has nothing to do with magnetism or the plunger.

anyone have a source for replacement 2K trimmer pots for the STTNG eddy pcb's ? I want to replace mine but want to make sure I get the right ones, Digikey and Mouser have what looks like it might work but want to be sure. The williams part number is 5014-1 0260-00.

Here's what I found so far: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT10LV10-202A2020-S?qs=pCZPOPZMYPhb8H8I5oW3PQ%3D%3D

that must be for a different board, STTNG seems to call for 2K ohms and horizontal mount is more likely to fit better, but thanks. If someone has the correct ones I would appreciate it. Or if these will work: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT10LV10-202A2020-S?qs=pCZPOPZMYPhb8H8I5oW3PQ%3D%3D

The manual says they’re 2k and it’s stamped 2k on the pot, what am I missing ?

Still trying to order the right pot, going for the 2K because that's what's written on the pot. Anyone know if I should get a single turn or multi turn pot? Maybe I should be asking for a good sativa while I'm at it ......

think I answered my own question with a little research, Green Crack. Actually wound up going with the single turn......

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Piher/PT10LV10-202A2020-PM-S?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0NwlthflBi%252BiwTKqsD8Sdvf11KnTl4Ss%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Anyone ever try the apron decals from Pinball Heaven UK ? I just got them and wasn't expecting them to be on clear see through decals. I thought they would be printed with a black background. Just checking to see if anyone has had good luck installing these and how you did it. I'm thinking, painting the old apron black and clearcoating it before applying the decals. I'm afraid of bubbles showing up in the clear part of the decal. I'm also not sure if I want to clear over the decals, could turn into a nightmare, I'll likely decide on that after I apply the decals. TIA

Yes I think you assume correctly. I never had good luck with clear decals looking hazy or bubbly. Also think I’m going to skip clearing over them, could turn into a disaster. Have to decide if I’ll do them dry or with rapid tac.

Anyone have problems with the eddy sensors working in the Mirco playfields because the ball sensor isn’t routed deep enough to sense the ball rolling over it up top ?

I have to make sure my eddy pcb's are alight first and test again, I changed the pot to a 2K pot and now neither works at all. I either bought the wrong pots or thinking of trying a 10K pot. The manual said 2K but some here said theirs was 10K.

Thanks for the input! Did you remember if the pot was 2K or 10K ? I wonder if the manual is wrong if there are 2 versions of the boards. The pots on my boards were definitely 2K and they look original.

OK a little time today to fuck around with this. When I take the sensor, (the connector with the resistor) out of the playfield it works fine if I hold it in my hand and test it in switch test. This is with my original eddy PCB's AND with the smart eddy's I bought from tangle. With the original Eddy PCB, it doesn't matter how sensitive I adjust the pot, it won't work with the sensor installed in the playfield, only by holding the sensor in my hand and passing a ball over it manually. Now the thought of trying to dig the notch in the playfield deeper makes me very nervous, if I break through I just ruined a playfield that's 100% finished. So I'm hoping someone out there who installed a mirco playfield had the same problem, and that maybe there's a cure, like changing the resistor to make it more sensitive. Anyone?

Ok was able to get the Eddy's working. Had to carefully deepen the holes that the sensor connectors fit into under the playfield. Very scary but went slow and used a depth gauge to keep checking, didn't press too hard and took my time. Used the original stock Eddy PCB's and soldered the black & red sensor wires directly to the board. Seems the replacement 2K pots did work after all. A little fine tuning of the pot and the sensors register in switch test every time. I'll keep the tangle replacement Eddy's as spares. Blood pressure back to a safe level.......

Yes you are correct, all the Sttng’s reset the drop target multiple times by design, I think he’s chasing a problem that’s not a problem.

I don’t think the game is trying to reset the target when it pulses 3 times, it’s trying to make sure the target is knocked down.