(Topic ID: 47092)
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Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
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Warren, PA
Very happy to join this club, however I am having a frustrating issue. My Playfield will not lock into place, meaning I can’t lift the Playfield up without having it slide back into the cab. Is this a common issue? I can’t seem to find anything causing the Playfield to not come the entire way out.
Any help is appreciated.
Quoted from mrossman5:Very happy to join this club, however I am having a frustrating issue. My Playfield will not lock into place, meaning I can’t lift the Playfield up without having it slide back into the cab. Is this a common issue? I can’t seem to find anything causing the Playfield to not come the entire way out.
Any help is appreciated.
I forgot to mention that while I was checking it out, I was able to get it to latch properly, but it took a few tries.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I'm going to toss out the same offer in this forum that I did in the Twilight Zone forum that had the same question.
MrCleanHead ... I'm so certain you will prefer the LED display I'm willing to put my own money on it! Here's the offer I extend to you:
If you buy a the slightly cheaper (-$30) colorLED display and decide you don't like it, I will do a 1 for 1 exchange with you for the colorLCD I have in my TZ, and I'll even pay for the shipping both ways.
I was going to put my LCD display in mine, but do you think it would be worth it to try to trade my LCD for an LED? I was going to set the LCD to dots anyway.
Quoted from mrossman5:Very happy to join this club, however I am having a frustrating issue. My Playfield will not lock into place, meaning I can’t lift the Playfield up without having it slide back into the cab. Is this a common issue? I can’t seem to find anything causing the Playfield to not come the entire way out.
Any help is appreciated.
Turned out to be the latching system hitting the rail. I just had to lift the game up higher to get it locked in.
Could someone please post a picture of the wiring of the 3 neutral zone targets? A wire came off and I just want to make sure I solder it back correctly.
Quoted from Phesson:I am struggling with the same issue on my STTNG. Very frustrating.
Patience my friend, patience. I was at it for hours. I waited for someone to look through the coin door and see what it was hitting and that’s when I figured out it was hitting the 2nd (closest to coin door) rail screw(?). I’d be more than happy to post a picture if it would help.
Soon, I will be replacing all of the bulbs in my TNG with LEDs. I normally turn the machine on to make sure the wedge insert bulbs are in place correctly. Would it be safe to turn the machine on without the subway attached?
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Probably a broken column wire on either the left or center switch, the column 2 pulse (GRN/RED) ends at the left NZ target and is jumpered over to the center and right target switches on solid yellow wires. NOTE: Williams typically used solid yellow wires to jumper signals from one source to another
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To me, the image below looks exactly the same as the one above.
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Believe it or not, the Center switch is the same one pictured above.
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I wish I could upvote you twice! A wire was simply on the wrong terminal. Resoldered and it’s all good. Thanks so much!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Scoot:After replacing BR5 and C30 with the stock dmd, I was registering 13v with my meter in attract mode. With the lcd, I was getting a solid 12v which I assume would be sufficient. But when the lcd/led installed, the right cannon in particular would run at a much slower speed. I will admit, the right cannon runs slower from the beginning, but with the color dmd installed, it is worse. I will look into the motor and clean the comm if possible. As for the upper flipper, it may just be my imagination, but i swear I cannot hit the ramp as easily. I don't know.
I’ve been having a similar problem except with my opto’s. It seems to be more common than most games on STTNG simply because of how packed it is.
As for the cannon, as I’m sure Pin_Guy will tell you, the motor likely isn’t the issue. Remove the plate holding the long metal tube(?) connecting the cannon to the white crank arm. It likely will take some effort to get out if it’s dirty. Clean it and line everything back up exactly as you found it. Somehow, I misaligned something during my cleaning and broke the small crank arm which was not fun to replace.
1 week later
Quoted from Mathazar:This is so cool - I got my STTNG mini this week. Being made and sold by a fellow pinsider on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/866488243/star-trek-next-generation-miniature
Perfect tchotchke for my desk....have an EBD coming too![quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from mbelofsky:Here are some I bought a few years ago. I have three that plug into to USB for lights. Xmen also has recordings that I provided.
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Ok, now I’m buying one 
1 week later
Quoted from bobukcat:Don't do it!! I personally think that looks pretty hideous but if you like it that's all that really matters. Mine is still just stainless but if I had it coated I'd do a glossy black with silver flake so it looks like the night sky / space.
This is a great idea. I'd love to see a picture of someone who did it.
Quoted from Pinless:Looking for a new set of plastics. Does anyone know a site that has a set in stock? It seems like most are out of stock.
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=80
Hope this helps.
Quoted from Scott9:HELP....
I just finished refurbishing my machine and have an issue causing my F115 fuse to blow and take out my 12V power. I need help from anyone who might know where I should look first. Thank you all...
Scott
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Do you have a bunch of LED mods? You are likely overtaxing the 12V power.
Also, where did you get that speaker panel?
2 weeks later
Quoted from sebo:Just finished me restoration and installed alternative decals and translite.
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Looks great! Where did you get that speaker panel?
Quoted from sebo:Thanks!
I did it myself, redraw it complete in adobe illustrator so it can be partially illuminated. (black mask behind it )
Therefore I build a speakerpanel out of acrylic instead of wood.
Nice work! I'm a big fan of those cabinet decals. Where did you get the translite? I've been looking for a good alternative for a while.
Quoted from Kenz:Cant Wait. You mix turned this great pin into a keeper
This pin is already a keeper! Pinballshark just made it even better.
Quoted from Pinless:Is it normal to be able to control the bottom right flipper without the top flipper moving?
If I push the right flipper button lightly, only the bottom flipper moves. Once I push it completely the top flipper will move.
Completely normal. It’s called “staging” and pretty much every game with two flippers on one side of the game has it. In multiball, it allows you to shoot the right orbit even if you have a ball trapped on the right flipper.
1 week later
Quoted from MikeSinMD:Does anyone know where I can buy a set of the metal lane extenders? Thanks! Mìke
I just ordered a set of these.
Quoted from midcoastsurf:Curious what everyone is using for art blades? I've seen the ones from retro refurbs, but looking for pics with them on a game. I really like their alt translite.
Personally, I prefer mirror blades. I purchased mine from Cointaker (https://cointaker.com/products/bally-slash-williams-dmd-mirror-blades-641d4844-5457-4d63-a1f9-7d32d771e681). I feel it really expands the playfield and looks great. When you talk about the translite, do you mean this one? (https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/star-trek-the-next-generation-characters-alternate-pinball-translite/)
If so, I just ordered it a few days ago. It was made by a fellow pinsider, and I think it looks great!
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from monkfe:If you go with the GI OCD board...you can change the intensity of the lamps....the LED OCD board as well....you'll probably need both as I believe there are both strands of lights on the back board....plus flashers...
I believe you only need the GI OCD board to make that possible. Not difficult to do once you get the program and connect your computer to the board. PLus you get the awesome shield dimming back if you are using LEDs.
3 months later
Quoted from ravve:Perhaps a silly question, but I wonder about the warning sound that plays when the coin door is opened (donk donk donk), is that the same sound on STTNG as on other Williams machines, or is it supposed to be more "noisy/scratchy"?
From what I know, it should be exactly the same.
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