Looking for a nice one in Dc/ md area. Anyone?
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Is this game supposed to have a bubble level on it for Playfield angle? I just got one and it doesn’t have it. I don’t even see holes where one would have been. Just wondering because most other games from this era do. I’m sure I will be asking more questions as I get into it more. Thanks! Mìke
New owner here. What color are the borg windows originally? The ones on mine are blue and are taped in, and the previous owner has green LEDs installed in there. Just curious.
The left flasher on the romulan ship is green and I didn’t think the borg should be green too. I think I will switch the borg LEDs to blue
Next thing: I’m getting the u6 sound board chksum error. The game will play fine sometimes, then the sound will just cut out during a ball. Then when the next ball starts the sound comes back on. I want to try a new e prom. Can anyone recommend a place to get one ? Or any other suggestions? Already tried reseating all the connectors. And there are a couple of new ribbon cables on it. Thanks
Anyone use the mantis protectors for this game? What about cliffy‘s? Which ones did you use and What was your experience with installation and fit ? Also Curious about the subway protectors. I want to get a new subway and The protectors seem like a good idea. Anybody?
What registers the shot into the start mission scoop. It was working, but now when I shoot there, it doesn’t know that I made it. There is a set of Opto‘s right underneath of it. Is there anything else that would register that shot? How does it know?
This game is new to me. The original 16 Opto board was replaced with a great lakes Opto board. I don’t have any paperwork for this board but This board has LEDs for each set of optos. I believe the Opto‘s are working because when I block them, a LED on the board goes out. Not sure where to go next? Where are these op amps/ comparators?
I’ll have to get back to the opto problem. I’m chasing some other issues too. I swapped MPU boards and it booted right up with no changes. I then put the original MPU board back in and now it won’t boot up. . Trying to figure out what’s going on.
Update. OK I am back and now working on the Opto problem. When I block the Opto‘s I can see a led go out and come on on the Great Lakes Opto board. When I go into the switch edges test, it does not register that Opto. When i block other optos, it does. I swapped the Opto’s out and no difference. Yes BriPin, that piece is there. I have the bracket with the Opto‘s mounted on it pulled off and I am working on it like that. There is also a pic of the Great Lakes opto board. The led that goes on and off when I block the optos is the bottom set of yellow LEDs and it the 4th on over from the right. Led 7.
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Awesome! Thanks for the tips! 37 is working and detected in the switch test. That wire is not broken in the IDC connector. It just looks that way in the picture. Interesting that you would say that though because I did have that assembly off of the game yesterday. I pulled it when I pulled the subway out to replace it. All I did was unplug it and unbolt it. I have tried reseating all of the connectors that I disconnected yesterday also, along with all of the connectors on the Opto board but no difference. I keep going back over everything that I did but I can’t find anything.
Thanks. I checked a few but need to check the rest. I stepped away from it for now and went out and decided to work on my truck instead while it was daylight. I may get back to it this evening, if not later this week. I will definitely post updates. Drives me crazy because it was working before I messed with the machine.
Update: the 16 opto board is bad. I borrowed one from someone and tried it and everything worked. Put mine back in and same problem. Anyone got a 16 opto board that I can buy?
Yeah, I tried to contact them and no response. I heard they are out of business. I have spoken to someone that is going to look at it. I will keep everyone updated.
Check to make sure the diverter isn’t bound up. Mine was. I just took it off the game, took it apart and cleaned it. Works perfect now.
Does anyone have a set of the out lane extenders that they would like to get rid of? Or where can I buy a set? Thanks!
If you’re having trouble with the cannons, check the wire harness for them. They get worn in spots and wires can touch each other. This can cause all sorts of problems.
Quoted from Cryland:Any one know how I can get a set of Extended Exit Lane Ball Guides? Another option is if someone has a set and can take a few measurements, I could make them myself.
Thanks
Charlie
I’m looking for a set of those also. If you do make some I would buy them from you.
Thinking about selling a nice STTNG in Md. it’s just not getting much play. Anyone interested? It would have to be a local pick up because I am not shipping it. I’ve had it for years. It has comet LEDs and flashers, Color DMD, Cliffys and mantis protectors, no broken plastics, plastic protectors, a brand-new 16 Opto board from Pindora. Has had some Board work done over the years. New ribbon cables, A bunch of new Optos, New Subway underneath. Cannon harnesses redone, Tie back mod has been done. New black legs and bolts, inside cab brackets, levelers, and cab protectors. Silly speech roms. maybe more, that’s all I can think of right now. Plays awesome, looks awesome. everything on it works 100%. If anyone is interested, send me a PM. Thank you Mike
Just had something kind of weird happen with my machine. It is just sitting there on and it started beeping and came up with the message “ Open coin door to use buttons“. Maybe I don’t have it Word for Word but, the coin door was closed. Also, I noticed that the Diagnostic buttons are not working. Anybody have any ideas? The game plays fine and everything else on it works. Thanks, Mìke
Quoted from Manny65:In addition to the above responses, note the diag/service switches are dedicated switches (ie not via the switch matrix). Also they connect to the CPU board via the coin door interface board, so lots of possible failure points.
Pinwiki https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Direct_Switch_Problems shows how to troubleshoot the issue to isolate where the problem is and should be you first starting point. See how you go and post back here if you have any questions
Quoted from ray-dude:That message comes up when you try to use the coin door buttons with the coin door closed (for example with the playfield up). I’m presuming it is a safety message so the high voltage isn’t active unless you explicitly have pulled the coin door interlock
Sounds like your machine is registering some button presses coming from the coin door buttons when you’re not pressing them. You can find the connector on the cpu board with the coin door switches in the schematics. Assuming no battery damage to cpu board (which would hose up switch detection) I’d start at that connector. If you find other flakey switches (not easy to see if you can’t get into test mode) likely an issue with your cpu board or wiring/connectors (flakey switches and schematics will give you a good hint of where the fault is)</blockquotelook for battery damage
Thanks everybody for the response. I am leaning towards some sort of battery corrosion damage but I will know a little later when I am going to pull the board and inspect. Looking at it when installed, everything looks OK but I want to pull it and give it a closer look. Mìke
For anyone that saw my post yesterday about the issue with the error message coming up saying close the coin door to use the buttons. I pulled the board to examine it and this thing still has batteries mounted to the MPU. One of the legs that holds the battery holder to the board is clearly corroded. I have had the game for several years and never had any issues with it. I’m sending it off to have it looked at and have NVRAM installed So I never have to worry about this again. I’ll let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks. Mìke
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