Curious what everyone is using for art blades? I've seen the ones from retro refurbs, but looking for pics with them on a game. I really like their alt translite.

Yes, that's the company for the alt translite. I personally prefer the non-character version, but both look WAY better than stock. Thanks for the links.

May as well drop by and pick up a backlit translite frame for it . Cool idea!

Has anyone cut out "Engage" into this spinner holder? I've seen the sticker, but wondering if there is a way to cut out the letters in the metal - possibly even a way to uplight the letters with frosted acrylic backing underneath? Maybe there's no room to light it up with the spinner in the way, but laser cutout "Engage" could be cool.

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Kerry's a rock star. Just an idea I had. Not sure about mounting - found the pic on Google.

Head is off and almost ready for its maiden voyage to the basement. I tried taking the playfield out...but heavier than expected. Holy crap. Excited to start repairing and cleaning up my first STTNG.

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Thanks!

Anyone lifted out the playfield fully populated? How heavy do you think it weighs? Debating doing this to get it into the basement. Head is already off. Stair entrance is tight and landing is tight. So, lighter the better. I did see the hoist/ratchet strap video with the lift, but that doesn’t help with getting the playfield back into the game once in the basement.

Thanks for posting this type of info with pics. Saves a lot of headache and gives confidence in tackling this machine.

I need to replace the GI header pin on my driver board. Any other maintenance I should do to help bullet proof while the board is out of the game? For example, any grounding mods or capacitors that should be replaced?

Exactly! I thought about the same thing for the Tron ramps.

I finally moved my STTNG project into my basement. My weird stairway/hallway set up requires removal of the head, so it's a pain. I set the game up, plugged all the connectors backed in, checked my pics pre tear down best I could and double checked everything was plugged in and all that happens is it boots into attract mode but only the DMD and sound work. I can get some coils to fire if I try to start a game (ball search - no balls in the game yet).

I did replace J115 header connector, but have not plugged in J115 as I need to re-pin the connector. Fuses F904 (left flipper) and F104 (solenoids) are blown, but I don't have any 3A SB fuses on hand to replace yet.

That said, shouldn't the feature/insert lights work since GI and solenoids are what should be out given fuses and J115 unplugged?

TIA

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I’ll check again. Thought I checked all fuses on all boards (removing one end of the fuse). BUT, I will double check. Thanks!

Pulled F114 out of game and it tests good.

I’ll replace F904, F104, new connector on J115 and report back.

UPDATE: Geeeeeez, I feel like an idiot. It helps when your ribbon cable is hooked up. I left it disconnected to tuck wires behind it and didn’t see it behind the wires.

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My left cannon motor has a wire that broke off and looks like it took the lug with it. Is there a way to strengthen the bond beyond just soldering to the little pad that’s left on the motor?

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Based on what I’ve read, remove them and clean throughly with a bottle brush. There’s a post with pics in here somewhere. I’d remove to clean out the gummed up crap. I need to do this with my top (Borg?) diverter that locks a ball.

I’m missing the plastic that goes over the 3 stand up targets above the right sling. Anyone have an extra one? I don’t care if it’s cracked or glued. (Photo credit to MrBellMan).

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Thanks! I didn’t even think of it being sold outside a full set.

Working through a trough board opto issue. LED 7 emitter does not light up. I replaced with the Mouser part referenced in this thread. The LED does not glow in camera view like the others. Should this newer style? Just as I look at this photo again looks like the top side trace could be cracked. I’ll check continuity.

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Helps if you check top size continuity as well. Trace was broken.

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Should have mentioned board was hacked to hell before I got it. Realized board was cracked/bent between LED 6 and 7. Yes, had to run a few jumpers to fix broken traces. Works now!

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Can finally start a game now that trough opto is fixed.

All 3 flippers are super weak. I cleaned the flipper board opto and checked and cleaned both EOS switches. Flipper coils only getting 20vDC. Trough kick out coil is at 70vDC. All other coils seem strong.

Thanks for the help. Pulled the board. BR1 tests good with DMM in diode mode. Noticed C2 is completely missing (tied to BR). Normal? The manual shows this part is listed. A Google image search shows this board with and without C2. The board has a warranty sticker of 1997. Possible this is a replacement board from a different game that didn’t need C2, but STTNG does?
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FIXED! Chris H. Suggested to look at J105. Sure enough o had it upside down (key is in the middle of 5 pins). Flipped it around and good to go! Should be on the left side.

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Cool! Can you take a pic further away so I can see how it ties in with rest of game and the scale of the items? Nice job!

Driver board test point voltages question. I believe there’s an issue on my 18v circuit. If I go into “all lamp” test, the game resets instantly every time I try it. The game has the Kahr 5v reset board (was in the game when I got it) and will occasionally reset during a game - maybe once every 30-50 games. Looks like previous owner also replaced C6 and C7.

In attract mode, TP8 will go from 16.3 to 12.3v under load (ie when modes light all together).

I need to double check the previous board work, but guessing voltage dropping to 12.3 is too low? I’ll check BR1. Any other components I should be testing?

Thanks, I’ll pull the board and check out the previous board work - BR1, C6/C7, and continuity while it’s out. Probably also check the 5v caps and bridges.

I have unlimited buy-ins/continues. You should see my 7 yo’s face when he gets to Final Frontier. Priceless.

Could it be based on game rom version?

For those who have LED's in the backbox, how are you eliminating the fast, faint flickering of the bulbs? Did you use GI OCD or non-ghosting bulbs? I'm guessing the patched rom only works on the playfield inserts?

Will GI OCD also fix the flickering backbox LEDs?

Not even sure what that means. Joking

Turning off the GI saver and dimmer settings stopped the LED flickering in the backbox. I ended up only replacing about the top 1/3 to 1/2 with sunlight color LED's where the ships and space area are and left the bottom half incandescent for the warmer colors on the faces. I didn't have any warm white LED's on hand. Worked out pretty great for now. I'll eventually start upgrading the machine with ColorDMD, OCD boards, and Pinsound, but for now, working to get it mechanically sound.

This. Haha. Buy some frames and let’s make it so!

Nice game! Is the CPU the only original board in your game? My driver board is out for professional repair along with CPU for NVram install. I figured I need to have a solid working platform so I can start troubleshooting knowing it's not an 18v, 12v, 5v issue.

Comet is my go-to for LED bulbs. Great variety and amazing service.

How fast should the trough register that a ball drained? My driver board is back from being professionally repaired and I believe I have dirty optos now that I know the driver board is giving proper voltages.

It can take 3-5 seconds for the game to realize the ball has drained.

The cannons can be slow to fire when a ball is in them (pull trigger multiple times, but trigger always launches a ball out of the shooter lane to select a mode first pull).

I'll be cleaning all trough optos and cannon optos and checking them in switch test, but was curious how quick this game was to register ball location.

Realizing that trough opto switches for balls 5 (switch 62) and 6 (switch 61) are not registering in switch test which is likely leading to the game registering the ball drain 3-5 seconds late. I also ran across a post about issues with Switch 61 (ball 6) and how the coin mech can press against that edge of the trough board. Now I know how it cracked. Time to check my optos and continuity again on the trough board, now that my coin mech is removed and no longer smashing against the trough board. Wondering if this is also affecting the delayed trigger on the gun since the game has two optos not working in the trough.

Mine appears to be stock. You can see the damage caused on page 103, post 5116:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/103

Here’s a link to the post I read when searching for STTNG switch 61:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-switch-61-trough-rl-6-solved

Is it possible the damage to your coin mech was done prior to you replacing the ball trough and board?

My cannons are slow to fire, as in they won't launch the ball until a few seconds after it leaves home. Same issue on both cannons. Have to pull the trigger 3-4 times once it starts moving for the ball to fire. It's not the trigger switch and both optos register fine in switch test. Possibly a "home" issue thinking it's still in home for a long range as it swings out? I can't hit the Neutral Zone on the first sweep, I have to wait for it to return to home to hit shots.

Awesome, thank you! Will see what I can find out.

This is great info and pic is super helpful, thank you! Now I need to see what my set up is and what needs to be done.

Sure, now I see this post, lol. I ordered some off eBay because that's all that came up with a Google search.

I would have ordered yours instead to support a fellow Pinsider/thread contributor. My only feedback is to remove the mouse bites before shipping and put a layer of bubble wrap between the two if concerned about scratches. Personally, I'm not a fan of doing additional work to a mod before installing - should be plug n' play unless it's a DIY mod I'm building like LED cat eyes for Demo Man handles. Just my 2 cents.

Anyone here done a DIY light up of the start mission scoop? I'm guessing you could tie in the scoop bulb to the start mission socket on the middle of the playfield so they are on at the same time? I've seen the kit on here for $27, but seems like it should just be some wiring, a socket, and a bulb? Not sure if a diode is required. Thanks!

Anyone know what part #'s these two posts are? My lower post that goes into the playfield has the threads of the top post broken off in it and the top hex wireform support is completely missing. Here's a pic of what I need (PC: Pezpunk). I found what I think might be the hex post on PPS site.

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Thanks! But that hex post screws onto the top of a regular playfield round post (the kind with the post sleeve) I believe. Looks like PPS is also out of stock on that long hex post, so may need to DIY something with threaded rod.

Eric_Manuel - beautiful machine! This LCD screen in front of the wireform never gets nailed? I hit this wireform ramp all the time with air balls.

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Trying to figure out delayed firing from both cannons. The "mark" switch is set to open after it clears the wireforms that lead to the cannons, and both "mark" switches show as "open" as soon as I want them to in test mode, BUT in game play, the cannons don't fire until the last 1/2 to 1/3 of their swing out rotation - which is well beyond where I have the "mark" switches set. For example, the soonest the left cannon will fire, will hit the right ramp shot (can't hit mode start scoop unless I wait for cannon to return to home position and hit it on the way back, but sometimes it's too late, cannon "times out" and ball trickles out of cannon). The soonest the right cannon will fire is to hit the neutral zone hole. Wiring loom issues?

Maybe a fan of the 1970's Bally Star Trek? Now looking to round out the collection?

I've had mine about 6 months now and upgrading with LED's, new trough boards, and Color DMD are a game changer. A ton more things/mods can be done, and I'm still tweaking the two cannons, but what a game! Good luck in the search.

I just need my cannons to work properly, let alone control the speed. Nice work!

Does the diverter work in test mode? Does the coil fire? Do the coil plungers move freely in the coils?

I went with the LED Color DMD and am super happy I went the LED route. Not a fan of the LCD effects on this game. But it's all personal opinion.