Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You don't have a SBA coin mech in there do you?

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Looking at your coin box, it looks like that divider was installed on the left, you would only do this if you have different coin mechs, like one for quarters and another for dollars ... like for the Susan B. Anthony dollar. Its very uncommon to have anything other than $.25 mechs in a US machine and you have a US coin door. I'm just trying to logically figure out why you have a machine with a coin box divider that was actually used ....

Quoted from billsfanmd:

thx. Easy to take apart? should I put some silcone sparay or leave alone? I know this is an ongoing pinball argument to lubricate moving parts or not

Quoted from MrMikeman:

I am guessing you are talking about the Delta Quadrant Ramp.
When LOCK is NOT lit, the diverter should activate and send the ball directly to the right flipper.
When LOCK is lit, the diverter should NOT move, and the ball should make it up to the borg ship and lock. However sometimes a shot that's not hard enough to make the bork ship hump will roll back down and then to the right flipper so in this case it would seem like there is a delay.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

I still don't get it. The diverter is a curved piece of metal. When is it triggered the ball should follow the curve and onto the ramp to the right flipper. I can't understand how the diverter could "hold" the ball. Makes no sense! Pic?

Quoted from MrMikeman:

I still don't get it. The diverter is a curved piece of metal. When is it triggered the ball should follow the curve and onto the ramp to the right flipper. I can't understand how the diverter could "hold" the ball. Makes no sense! Pic?

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Finishing up my friends pin....Under pf I noticed what looks like a large single plastic subway. Looks like a pretty involved removal and reinstall. Is it as bad as it looks? Looks like alot has to come off to get it off. Any tips or insight?
Thx.

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Ok that did come out easy.
One coil question. The main diverter coil is fried. Think it’s an AE 25-1000 any others that will work? I can order one but have some odd spares if there are any you can switch out

Quoted from arthurrag:

Yes, it is a great machine. I love it, Playing and fixing. My kids bought it for me for Christmas. They know I like to fix things. My day job is high end x-ray machines. But it has been a long time since it was relays, coils and mechanical switches. Sometimes I cannot see the forest for the trees. I appreciate your help.

Quoted from arthurrag:

Hi,
I have a ST:TNG. When I purchased the machine the Enterprise ship lights were inoperable. I looked into it and found the wires hanging loosed under the play field. Do these get connected to the G.I. circuit, Flasher, or some other location? I cannot find any information in the manual. Thanks
Art

Quoted from Xtraball:

I love this in color[quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Honestly? I don't know. It came with it when I got it from the previous owner. It has a spot in it for an old fashioned flasher bulb, but there is a small LED on the bridge of the Romulan ship so it must be a mod. I don't know if that Klingon ship is stock or not either, it has LED 455 bulbs plugged in under the wings. I know the enterprise and shuttle are not original. They appear to be Christmas ornaments. Every time you start up the machine the Enterprise model says something about boldly going in a miniature really worn out speaker. May take the two ships on the right out someday and replace with a stock shuttle and repaint the shuttle myself.

Quoted from Manny65:

The original machine came with the Romulan Warbird (back left corner), Klingon Bird of Prey (left side), Borg ship (back centre) and shuttle craft (back right corner). Note in the picture the original shuttle craft has been replaced with one that predominantly appeared in Deep Space Nine. It is also common to replace the Warbird and Bird of Prey with Hallmark versions as they have more detail.

Quoted from Manny65:

I wonder if you'd be able to find an original ... then again people do swap it out for the Hallmark, so you'd probably be able to get one if you want to go that way

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Check out my DIY post on this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/52#post-4753118. If you just want to buy one and install it send me a PM...I still have the one I made when creating that post.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

IMO:
Target decals
Domed covers for cannon - DIY for $2.50 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/8#post-3085040
Color changing LED under neutral zone
Star Post lighting
COLORDMD LED Display!!!
Some things I did to mine:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/4#post-2885291

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Looks great! I should have posted these earlier...one of the best spots to run the wire is right alongside the Delta Ramp wiring and out the big hole in the playfield, I'm faily certain the clear cover plastic already has a hole in a perfect spot for this:
[quoted image]
Looking at the picture of your Romulan ship, something looks a bit off, are you missing the green flasher cover? The hole in the bottom of the ship is the correct size to fit tightly onto this cover.
[quoted image]

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Pin_Guy thx alot!!...adjusted the settings till coil fixed and played a bunch of games...My left gun worked fine in test and did not search at all when I turned game on tonight. So I need to to just double check the switches to make sure they are making good contact. Hate intermittent issues.
I do have one issue and its the one repair I hate...flippers. My left flipper is perfect ball is super fast and all the shots are easy to hit...The right flipper just does not have the same power....Ball travles off it like an EM and goes about 2/3 the speed as the left....I don't feel any slop or mechanical....What should I check? clean flipper switch optos? new coil?
Thanks!

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx. I’ll rebuild them including coil stops
But when I take them apart what are you looking for as far as problem areas?

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Yep. Easy Which kit do you get?

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Question about the 17636 coils... where should they be placed?
I know from the factory they’re all 11629. I bought a STTNG not far back that has the 17636 upgraded coils installed tho.
My lower left is a 11629 and the upper and lower rights are 17636. It plays well so I would assume that’s right. But I’ve also seen all 3 as 17636?

Quoted from Mathazar:

I just joined the club this weekend! I got my example fairly cheap (at least I think so) and best of all local (9 miles from my house). She mostly works, just a few gremlins here and there. While it spent the last 22 years in the home of the family I bought it from, she's a little rough around the edges cabinet-wise from it's first few routed years. Some holes on the side here and there from a previous operator, a couple of dings, marked up decals on the head, and rusty legs. Inner cabinet a bit dingy but no water damage. The board set is nice and original - no hacks that I can see.
The playfield is really nice - no visible wear but very grimy and dirty. Rubbers on their last legs. A few chips in some plastic pieces but they're all there and no outright cracks. Once I have everything working correctly, it'll be a total topside tear-down and thorough cleaning (and tumbling of metal bits).
I've resolved the first couple of easy issues - no audio in right speaker (bad filter cap) and right gun not finding home (one of the wires to the opto was hanging loose....soldered it back on). I'm now onto the third issue on my laundry list and the last "major" one I hope - the left gun doesn't turn at all.
Problem is obvious from the underside - the plastic crank arm has broken off such that the spinning motor is no longer attached. The longer crank arm looks ok - it's the smaller crank arm that broke off near the roll pin. I ordered a replacement small crank arm on Pinball Life tonight - fingers crossed it arrives by the weekend.
Now my question (and apologies if this has been covered in this thread before....I'm only up to Page 12 of 82 reading thru it): can someone provide me general step by step instructions on how to pull the left cannon assembly out enough that I can reach the roll pin on the motor, remove the broken plastic piece, and install the new small crank arm? Do I have to disassemble the whole cannon assembly to do this repair? Not sure where to start....looks like a lot of topside and bottomside screws and parts....I don't want to remove the whole thing if I don't have to. Thank you!