Walnut Creek, CA
I prefer the original classical font with no outline and play with the angles on the ship. In space the concept of banked turns doesn’t really reconcile with me, except maybe when the use impulse power.
(Topic ID: 47092)
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Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
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1 month later
Which opto?....
Hi STTNG fans. Logic question for the group. Which opto do you predict is failing in the following situation: upon boot up, the catapult launches a ball and goes into the trough, and then the left in lane ball popper pops a ball to left drain line. The cycle repeats over and over. It’s like the normal ball reset procedure but it just happens over and over...
Is it possible to predict which Opto is the culprit?
11 months later
Quoted from Jaybird815:Yeah ColorDMD is coming after I get my boards back from bullet proofing, I’m currently using the ones out of my BSD to dial her in, man this is by far the longest it’s ever taken me on a pin, now that it is, BSD is going have to take a back seat, I wasn’t expecting this pin to be as fun as it is
Color DMD is overrated IMO. If you haven’t already done it, led borg flashers and powered external sub are the bomb. I wouldn’t do full LED conversion without Herg pulse modulating boards.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Pinsound is more a bang for your buck than colordmd, especially for this game. Dont get me wrong i have a colordmd and it looks super nice hut how often are you looking at animations when you play?
Pinsound with external sub is mind blowing.
Ordered Pinsound. So excited!
2 months later
Ok.... so..... just sayin.... but as top 100 superfan of the show (not verifiable, but I'm probably close), I can say with certainty... PINSOUND, and pinballshark's ultimate (and alternate) mix is in particular, is the GREATEST thing I've ever experienced in Pinball... Pinballshark gave the fans an incredible gift. It's really spectacular.
Probably doesn't hurt that I'm running RCA out from the pin sound board to a Nakamichi AV-2 receiver and bowers and wilkins speakers. It's literally STUNNING in its clarity and emotional reproduction. I got TEARS in my eyes TWICE when reaching final frontier... Cardassian Multi-ball is RIDICULOUSLY fantastic, as is Romulan Multiball now... And don't get me started on the Ferengi... wow.... Borg... perfect. Details, timing, volume builds... check. Lotta love and passion went into this. The videos on youtube while great don't do it justice.
Anyway... I read another post where someone regretted pinsound for the STTNG, and the ONLY scenario I can imagine someone having that reaction is if they weren't a fan of the original show or really just love the nostalgia of unmolested machines.
Thank you pinballshark !
1 week later
Quoted from andrewket:The TNG I bought should be here MAYBE at the end of week, but certainly no later than next week week. Adding a Pinsound and ColorDMD is #1 and #2. Is the mix you’re referring to on pinsound’s website?
Yes it is. I would get the speaker kit and wiring harness too. Harness comes with the kit.
Be prepared for resets but I bought the original board from Rob Kahr not the stolen design that the pinsound folks copied.
Was still getting occasional resets and the diagnostics on the Kahr board indicated my 12v unregulated was falling below 9. So now rebuilding the entire power sections on the wpc. Good and fun corona project.
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:PinGuy my apologies, I didn't mean to imply anything negative with the 'leave it alone' - it sounds like you don't recommend removing the z-connect and wiring those directly as a 'fix' for random resets - leave it factory is what I read.
I'm willing to try anything on your guidance. My next step would probably be to remove and inspect the CPU board if those pins have a cold solder or something.
Just went through this literally with pinsound resets. First reseat the power connector on the left side of the board. I forget the number. If still resets with pinsound (and it will) next thing is to install the rob Kahr board to steal power from the 12v supply to stabilize the 5v regulated. If game still resets (mine did) then I just went ahead and rebuilt the entire power section of my board. Voltages were pretty wonky and flippers and lamps were weak in retrospect.
Before I get crucified by the “diagnose and only replace what’s needed” and “oooo that’s risky caps are hard you can rip traces out” crowd I’ll say this. My sttng coin door says “tokens” on it and the caps and bridges are all 26 years old.
No more resets. Super fast and bright. Factory spec huge power in the game now.
Quoted from DidiF16:Hello I am new in this club. I am from Belgium and since a few weeks owner ( finally o) of a STTNG. Man what am i happy.
I have a question on the behavior of the pinball.
When i shoot left lane I hit the locker and it goes down what is supposed to be. But the the green flesh with Lock Ball is not illuminated.
When i shoot for the second time left lane, the ball goes in the hole and now the lock ball is illuminated. Si i can lock the ball via the left lane only after 3 left lane shots. If I read the rule sheet it should lite after the first hit. Correct?
Anyone an idea what this van be and how i can solve this?.
Not totally clear on what is happening but let me make a cut. When you say left lane I assume you are talking about the neutral zone shot lock correct? Or are you talking about the delta ramp lock?
Either way I think I have my neutral zone lock disabled (hard setting) and the delta lock only illuminates after I shoot the right loop. Yours is probably set to easy. Set it to hard. It’s better IMO.
Quoted from Mathazar:Wow....this is nice: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96147
Damn. That’s very nice. What else was in the bulk buy I wonder? Was this all Larry DeMar’s stuff I wonder?
Quoted from misterman:So ever since I've had my machine the to be continued button would never light up. I would like to get it to light up. Where do I start as someone who's pretty new to repair. I have a dmm just not sure exactly where to poke around. The button itself works in game and provides the buy in, just no light.
I would start by reseating the lamp and if that doesn’t work then replace the lamp. Flashes at the end of the game I believe. Never opened one up though...
Do this with the power off of course!
Quoted from andrewket:I switched to the Ultimate pinsound mix. It’s great, except the volume of the voice/call outs is a bit low. I found a page that talks about adding a “gain” file to the voice folder, but that didn’t appear to work. Do I really have use the studio software to remix? I’m hoping there is a simpler way.
I dialed in the eq settings and my voices are coming in nicely in that mix. I tuned the eq so the core music sounds about as balanced as if you were watching the tv show with audio out to an external amp amd speakers.
But I can see where even then some voices get lost a bit.
2 weeks later
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:(Self Resolved).
My Bridge Rectifier kit came from Marco (I was surprised how fast).
Most of the original capacitors were out of spec on my ESR, the 'worst' was measuring 9202uF. Closest one was 13000uF- they're supposed to be 15000uF
The capacitors have thick hook like legs, so my desoldering gun didn't really work with it. I did lift a trace on C30 capacitor when it popped out before I had removed all the solder. I was able to solder to the remaining trace, run the wire through the whole and wrap it on the capacitor leg. Tested ok. See pics for how I resolved it.
The rest of the repair went as planned. The voltages are much better, 5.01vdc at TP2 and the CPU board is coming in at 4.97vdc at the chip leg.
Board powered on, all LEDs are lit, game booted, game on, BUT...
The playfield lights are not working - general illumination is, but 'The Final Frontier', 'Shoot Again' and the mission lights are not working.
Any hints as to where I made a mistake?
Update - figured out my loss of play field lamps was due to a lack of 18vdc. The C7 top positive trace must have lifted as well as there was no continuity from TP8 (18vdc) to the positive posts of C7 (but there was to C6). I added a jumper wire on the back between the + posts of C7 and C6 and that resolved it.
Test Point voltages in the Power Driver Board, in case someone asks:
TP1 - 13.45vdc
TP2 - 5.02vdc
TP3 - 11.89vdc
TP6 - 71.1vdc
TP7 - 21.1vdc
TP8 - 0.03vdc (is this right?) Update - no this is not right. When working is now 14-17vdc
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Dang. I just read your previous post and was about to warn you about capacitor removal... glad it’s working now.
1 month later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Installed an LED strip light in the back. Keep or kill? I have mixed feelings.
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Kill it. The Neutral Zone should be dark and mysterious. Not lit up like Earth.
Getting no love in the main forum... Posting here...
Long story short. Bought the game probably 13 years ago, GI was a mess then, just completed a second rebuild of J120 and J121 after re-doing all the caps and bridges. Game plays super fast and amazing...
HOWEVER, J120 backbox GI does not work in the standard configuration. There are 11 pins on the J120 connector. And according to the manual and all pics I've seen (and mine prior to this recent rebuild), The White-Yellow wire goes to pin 9 (third from left), the White-Orange to Pin 8, and then solid Yellow on Pin 3, and Solid Orange to Pin 2.
MY ORANGE - WHITE GI only works when the White Orange is connected to Pin 7 (five from left)!!!
So in the standard factory config with white orange on Pin 8, my white-orange backbox string is entirely out (voltage reads ZERO). Nada. Nothing. However, if I move the white-orange wire to Pin 7 (five from left), I get the full 7.6V or whatever.
More information- I have buzz continuity between pins 9 and Pin 7, and I also have buzz continuity on Pins 9 and 7 to both fuses 109 and 110. I also have buzz continuity from Solid Orange pin 2 to Q10.
Test Point 8 is 16V
WTF? Suggestions?
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Sounds right (with J115 connected and the fuses in), for all practical purposes you are measuring wire.
[quoted image]Sounds like you broke the thru hole to pin 8 and its making enough connection to pass a continuity check but is unable to pass enough current to light the GI string...
Thank you! Why does the GI light when I connect it to pin 7?
4 months later
Quoted from pinballshark:Thank you for these kind words! This Pinsound package took me about a month working average 3-4 hours a day to put it together. I listened to tons and tons of Star Trek music to find the right fit for the game and it's many modes. It became an obsession.
There is more to come!
I'm going to be updating the sound package with new call outs taken from the shows. I'll be starting with episode #1 and watch them all again. It will take some time, but will be awesome when it's finished. Stay tuned!
Hey! Have you heard the Grand Nagus call out during Ferengi multiball? It's an easter egg. Also, the beam up sound during the Rescue mode was taken from a Next Gen movie and it is in stereo.
-pinballshark
“More for me!” Grand Nagus is a nice touch. I about had kittens when I heard this. Nagus said this in DS9 when someone (the Sisco?) turned down the beetle snuff????
Let us know when you get your update done. So looking forward to it! Also, I noticed during cues challenge it randomly selects tween one of two songs. This is persistent right? It’s possible to have for each mode one or more different types of music that get selected at random. That would make any given game an almost unique experience?
Quoted from Rkrall:Technical assistance needed. To start, my electrical skills are not the best so please dumb down any assistance you can help out with. My left cannon wasn't firing so i tracked down the well documented broken wire. While diagnosing, at one point with the game on, I bumped a metal piece with a piece of metal and the game reset. No biggie right lol. Booted up fine, no problem, soldered broken wires back together on the cannon and worked fine. I did notice afterwards that i had the violets crossed on the gun but it still worked. The game plays fine now, probably played 20 games (i did not swap the violets back) but now after it sits for an hour or so powered on (not while playing), J114 blows. The display says check 114 and 115 but only 114 blows.
So 2 questions :
A) Should i swap the violets back just so documentation matches or could this be causing the j114 issue (long shot)
B) What would be causing just 114 to blow after sitting for awhile turned on.
Thanks all!
Yes. Re-solder the wires appropriately and report back. And doing the obvious is never the long shot! Quite the opposite actually. Those diodes and wires are precisely placed for a reason.
2 weeks later
Quoted from MrMikeman:Over straining the 12v can give you issues such as weak flippers due to low voltage on the transmitter side of the optos. Obviously if the board is freshly rebuilt it shouldn’t be a problem. The external ps is a completely reversible/removeable add-on. The display and pinsound are connected with splitters anyway. I connected the splitter to the external ps instead of the driver board. I can just connect the splitter to the PDB if I want. BTW I did this because I run Pinsound, Color DMD, Lit buttons, Custom topper(lit), and a few lit toys, all running on 12v. I felt the flippers weren't as snappy as they should be. As is turns out I decided to rebuild them this past week and now they are a bit too snappy lol. I stand by my decision to not over stress the 12v supply.
I definitely never said anything about resets. It would only affect folks running a “no-reset” board which is powered by the 12v supply which is a bad idea to start with(IMHO). If it resets, fix the problem.
I freshly rebuilt my board. My STTNG rocks with speed.
The default when you power up the game and start a game is that the drop target is down. It pops up when you select things like warp factor four mode etc.
There are clearly some geniuses who contribute to this so I’ll give you my layman’s point of you. The answer in my opinion is usually the obvious one which 9 times out of ten is either mechanical or broken or cold solder joints.
9FED1CC5-1457-41F6-AA9C-4F03557BEF3C (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:H-E-L-P PLAYFIELD Damage.
Is there anything which can be done to repair something like this (see photo)? Sorry I am posting so much guys/gals, deeply involved in this STTNG restoration.
Or at least make it look less ugly. Kind of embarrassed to even post this.....The machine has had a hard life, but over the last 3 months, received the well deserved TLC. New color DMD, New PinSound System, New Power Driver Board, New DMDLux Video Board, New 8 Driver Board, New Fliptronic Board, New Opto Board, New Optos everywhere, New Trough, New Trough Opto Boards, New Cannon Looms, New Cannon Motors, LED OCD and GI OCD systems, New Flipper Rebuilds, Paint Job for cannons and borg by Back Alley.....more
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What did you do with the old power driver board? Still have it?
Also, your shield insert decal seems to be chipping a bit and delaminatung. Curious to hear what others recommend. Could be dont eff with it.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:H-E-L-P PLAYFIELD Damage.
Is there anything which can be done to repair something like this (see photo)? Sorry I am posting so much guys/gals, deeply involved in this STTNG restoration.
Or at least make it look less ugly. Kind of embarrassed to even post this.....The machine has had a hard life, but over the last 3 months, received the well deserved TLC. New color DMD, New PinSound System, New Power Driver Board, New DMDLux Video Board, New 8 Driver Board, New Fliptronic Board, New Opto Board, New Optos everywhere, New Trough, New Trough Opto Boards, New Cannon Looms, New Cannon Motors, LED OCD and GI OCD systems, New Flipper Rebuilds, Paint Job for cannons and borg by Back Alley.....more
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No offense Eric, but you have messed with perfection by brightening up areas that are inherently dark. In reference to your old post where you want to cover up the switches and stuff between the Borg lock and delta ramp... THAT AREA IS SUPPOSED TO BE DARK. In fact, as a huge fan of the show, the color balance of Borg Multiball in darkness is almost identical to the color scheme of the show when the enterprise is in trouble and taking damage. Yesterday's Enterprise is a good example that comes to mind if memory serves (not that that was a borg battle). The other cool thing about the default lighting is that the neutral zone is inherently dark. Its far away... faint, like space....
All these mods... Love the herg LED stuff, but some things I think you really need to preserve the spirit of the original design. But to each his own. Unmolested incandescents attached (Romulan flasher is LED, as is the entire borg cube).
IMG_8251 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Borg gameplay question?
During the 2nd of 5 ball gameplay, without any balls in LOCK, and without encountering the Borg yet, I hit a ball up the LEFT Ramp. Normally the diverter will prevent (I believe) the balls from entering the Borg Ship. However one went in. Normal game play continued until finally entering the Borg gameplay, and then it shot the ball. Does a ball normally "load in advance" ?? I seldom get a ball into the ship.
Have no idea what "normal" is. Thanks. Also, as previously posted, what is the LX-7C Competition MOD ROM???
Thank you as always for your thoughts and suggestions
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This is completely normal. You must’ve shot up the right loop to light borg lock. From here, The Delta quadrant ramp is lit for borg lock as is the right loop. If you hit the Delta quadrant shot before the right loop, your ball will lock in the borg ship. The right loop will also remain lit for Lock. However if you hit the right loop first, the ball lock in the Delta quadrant will unlight.
In borg multi ball then you will get shot at with that locked ball. Pretty cool touch.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Worth noting: the top three failures on new machines are:
1) Stern flipper coil stops. There's no good way to say it, these just suck, the brass rivets holding the stop to the mount breaks before there is any wear.
2) Broken wires, switches and coils, all makes; high vibration areas, it happens
3) Game mechs failures ... apparently neither JJP and American Pinball have heard of, or know what Permatex or Loctite is Stern does a better Job at this but also has substantially fewer Mechs.
Haha. So timely. I just added a stern JP couple weeks ago and the left coil stop broke at the rivet. I was like “wtf!!!???”
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Help! I broke my ST:TNG and it’s my fault! I’m 2 weeks into troubleshooting with 2 parts orders and have not fixed it. It’s my favorite game and I’d appreciate any help I can get.
BLUF: 4 Solenoids don’t work associated with J2 on daughter 8-Driver PCB assembly after I plugged something in backwards. Put in new 8 PCB and replaced fried Solenoids, still doesn’t work.
What I did:
I removed the CPU board (A-12742-50023) to throw in my Twilight Zone to troubleshoot (I fixed TZ!). Upon putting the CPU board back in, I plugged the ribbon cable J204 (left side of Board in backwards). I turned on the machine, and after about 30 seconds smelled smoke, so turned it off, rechecked all my connections, and realized what I did. J204 connects directly to the 8 Driver PCB assembly (A-16100).
What I’ve done:
1. I left the machine alone a few hours to let smell clear, and then reseated the ribbon cable in the correct direction.
a. Upon firing up the game, the game does the thing where it cycles balls continuously trying to stage the ball for the game. Shoots into drop target, then pops ball out left side continuously.
b. Cannot start a game
c. Solenoid test reveals last 4 items in test don’t work including up/down drop target and under playfield diverters.
2. I assume I fried my A-16100 daugterboard and order a new one… wait a week and install.
a. Fire machine up, fuse F103 blows immediately. Replace fuse, same thing.
i. Unplug J connectors on 8 Driver PCB one at a time, when J2 is disconnected, fuse does not blow.
ii. Trace those wires, they lead to the 4 solenoids not firing.
iii. Disconnect the brown wife from the top underplayfield diverter and plug in J2, fuse does not blow… It must be the solenoids shorting
iv. Realize I cannot physically move the diverters associated with solenoids, order 2 new ones. Removal reveals old Solenoid completely melted. I already have a drop target in hand.
3. I install new solenoid into top underplayfield diverter. Plug in J2 into 8-Driver PCB assembly. I enter test mode and Solenoid still does not fire. So… with new 8-Driver PCB assembly and new Solenoid, test Solenoid fire does not work. I have not yet replaced the drop target and or 2nd solenoid. At a loss for what else to do to fix.
Thank you all!
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Damn. Bummer. First of all. Breathe. Stop panick replacing.
I’m no expert, but did you start with the obvious stuff? Validate that your fuses are all the exact right ones for their holders and check for functioning. Replace as appropriate.
1 week later
4 weeks later
Quoted from jedimastermatt:Presenting my Pinsound mix for STTNG.
Of all of the mixes I've done, this was the easiest as most of the community did all the hard work and I had a great base on which to start. Much credit to the authors of those fantastic mixes. I used those and made some minor tweaks to the music cues and think I only made a couple of changes to add a bit more Starfleet STTNG choices - some from the series and some from the films. The most radical music change was me adding in Giachinno's End Credit redo from the JJ universe films as I found that track to be fantastic and works well after multiball (randomly in this version).
All of the sound effects have been reworked to use in STTNG universe samples. This was a fun thing to sort through as there is ample source material online for it.
All of the voice callouts have been rebalanced and cleaned up a bit. I may eventually sort through the series/films and try to find some other callout options; but, the current game already has so many great custom ones that I don't feel it that urgent of an issue.
I plan on eventually revisiting the bonus count cues as I'm not 100% happy with it and think I can eventually get it sorted into using the end of the opening/end credits cue; but, I didn't want to leave you all waiting while I play around with it.
https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/348-sttng-ultimate-orchestration/
*The upload is still pending Pinsound approval; but, it should be available shortly.*Please excuse the poor video quality and lousy play while I was recording this.
CANT WAIT!!!! Thank you!!!
Quoted from jedimastermatt:Presenting my Pinsound mix for STTNG.
Of all of the mixes I've done, this was the easiest as most of the community did all the hard work and I had a great base on which to start. Much credit to the authors of those fantastic mixes. I used those and made some minor tweaks to the music cues and think I only made a couple of changes to add a bit more Starfleet STTNG choices - some from the series and some from the films. The most radical music change was me adding in Giachinno's End Credit redo from the JJ universe films as I found that track to be fantastic and works well after multiball (randomly in this version).
All of the sound effects have been reworked to use in STTNG universe samples. This was a fun thing to sort through as there is ample source material online for it.
All of the voice callouts have been rebalanced and cleaned up a bit. I may eventually sort through the series/films and try to find some other callout options; but, the current game already has so many great custom ones that I don't feel it that urgent of an issue.
I plan on eventually revisiting the bonus count cues as I'm not 100% happy with it and think I can eventually get it sorted into using the end of the opening/end credits cue; but, I didn't want to leave you all waiting while I play around with it.
https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/348-sttng-ultimate-orchestration/
*The upload is still pending Pinsound approval; but, it should be available shortly.*Please excuse the poor video quality and lousy play while I was recording this.
Downloaded and have some feedback. First I applaud the ambition. But do have some feedback.
1) Sound balance- the new chirp sounds and some of the voices I find too loud and forward. I notice the distinct start stop of a file when the dbs are so mismatched and I find it distracting.
2) my biggest beef with the original ultimate mix is repetition on some of the modes and not using the random audio selection of the platform to diversify the experience. Despite this I find the original ultimate mix about perfect. I would love a variation that simply adds more musical arrangements to diversify the experience
3) related to 1 the switch hit chirps are just a bit much for me.
If I had a pc I might try and tune this myself.
Quoted from Mathazar:I had the same observations/experience with the loudness....many files are 5db, 10db, and as high as 17db from each other. I was planning on normalizing my "modified" orchestral package this weekend, perhaps tomorrow night if I get enough cycles. I'll be happy to share when I'm done.
Cool. Please do! Maybe revert some of the switch hit sounds too- it plays too much like the secret mission frenzy imo.
Quoted from Mathazar:Thanx for this, jedimastermatt! Only played a few games so far, but I really like it. Ironically, I spent the better half of my weekend starting to make my own custom STTNG orchestration and last night I was working out the cut off/looping issue with the End of Game music (which does not happen with yours). I had already done all of my music, normalized and at the right lengths, and while they play and sound great I'm not as enamored with a few after testing with some practice games. Now I'm thinking I may use your orchestral package as new baseline and pop in a few music tracks of mine that I still like into some missions. Nicely done!
Please don't use this as the baseline. Use the original ultimate mix as the baseline. Seriously, this version is 100% trash. Lots of noise, DB way off. A disgrace to the original ultimate mix honestly.
Quoted from Mathazar:100% trash? That's a little harsh - I still like this package very much and appreciate his effort. Replaced 7 or 8 music pieces I like better, put in the Ultramix end of ball bonus sounds (which I really like), and normalized all files so that they're all within 1db of each other tonight. Took about an hour. Will probably tweak a few more sounds (I kinda like the original SFX for asteroid explosions and Borg ship hits). Haven't noticed any "noise" yet.
Maybe a little harsh. But the grating chirps off the slings and random phaser blasts "for the heck of it" are seriously grating. This mix is a great example of why there is the expression "less is more". I'm sure there are many redeeming things about it... but can't get past the random computer and phaser sound effects that are SOOOOO out of context with the feeling of the show its an insult to STTNG the series. Coming from a superfan BTW.
7 months later
Quoted from Redwizard000:Got my shipment from Comet in and switched out my saucer bulbs. Changed the outer bulbs from white (and an odd green) to purple and changed the command decision light from purple to white.
I think it looks pretty good, what do you guys think?
I will play with it like that for a while, though I can't play too seriously because my right flipper is messed up and I am waiting on a rebuild kit. I have enough white bulbs to change them all back to white with a purple in the middle, that's the alternative, if it turns out I don't like them like this.
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I prefer the warm classic glow of incandescents save for the upper playfield flashers which I have blue in borg and color matched the other two.
I chased this funky color LED path once. The only way I’d do it again is color match the inserts and do herg boards. But I could be swayed for something creative for worm hole. 
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:The strobing is solvable using the GI OCD Board for general illumination, which also allows your SHIELDS to properly dim the right amount during gameplay. The LED OCD Board allows for smoothing of all the other leds in the machine. BOTH of these products I own, and if you are wanting your game to be it's best, a must have.
All kind of comparison examples on YouTube showing before and after.
Yes. Super familiar. It’s the only way I’d do LED. May be my next thing. Did herg sell the tech? I recall he engineered and built that stuff for legacy pins a couple years back.
Quoted from koji:Any opinions on Romulan mode? I find it so disappointing, the mode itself is pretty well done, I enjoy playing it.. it's just that the scoring is so unbalanced considering the shots vs reward etc. the strat for me seems to be just to avoid it and forget about the neutral zone if the romulan's are there.
Or maybe that is key theme integration.. avoid them.. lol
Am I missing anything here?
I play it when my game isn’t going anywhere. But if I’ve got like six artifacts and two missions away from final frontier on ball one I’m holding and timing out.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Would you like a custom made "Borg Alcove Display" for your STTNG Pin? Yes, it's cool! Contact me via text, and note your interest.
Eric M.
[email protected][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Holy crap that looks cool. How does it work in terms of the display changing for different modes?
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:CURRENT STTNG Pin Project:
Yes, it's a pain, but best electrical connection ever.
Working on several other machines, sometimes the wires are just too small to make a reliable connection. What a bunch of work...lol[quoted image][quoted image]
Piling on. Please tell us you aren’t going to proceed… this is really a terrible idea on many levels.
2 months later
Quoted from Zitt:I supply a cut up cap with my popcap kit because I think it should have been stock. Looks weird not having one there
I disagree. It illuminates the beta quadrant ramp with a nice warm glow.
Quoted from Thehipster:Hi can anyone tell me how to advance the holodeck feature sequence to make it more difficult. Every time I go there it is the same sequence and is getting a tad tiresome. I have seen it on line on a STTNG run through where there are three 10 million awards in a row while mine never advances past one. Thanks.
In addition to oradke’s comment, the way to think about it is loading up on artifacts. If your game has large potential then go through the caves to get the artifact at the end. One day you might get to two or even three final frontiers with 12 or more artifacts and earn a cool 3 billion. But if your game has no potential take the points or play poker with riker by pulling the trigger as you right click (I think).
Quoted from Lostcause:Think I have LX-7 on mine.
Lx7 here too. I think I only get 159 as well.
Quoted from bobukcat:Table leveling, spinner resistance and how clean the playfield is will all play a role in how well that shot will make it smoothly all the way around to the U.R. flipper. Start by cleaning the playfield up nicely and make sure the lower right flipper isn't in need of a rebuild.
This should get you there. But note, I spent the first part of Covid rebuilding the power section of the power driver board motivated partly by weakness in that left orbit shot and frequent game resets despite reseating cables etc. My game now zips like never before. Left orbit to upper right flipper is lightning quick.
I just reeled off 10.398B no buy ins. I stacked warp factor 9 mode on cardassian multiball (first time in 13 plus years of ownership) and also during final frontier! (Another first). Only had five artifacts so got the Billion and every shot was worth 125m
Quoted from koji:Mean game most times, but SO rewarding to get achievements like that! congratulations, I felt a bit of a rush just reading about the stacked warp factor
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Thanks! It was so wild and surprising given I’ve owned it so long! Such a classic SR game.
Quoted from marioparty34:Quick question:
For those that have changed out the glass and trim for your translite, are there any tips for doing so?
I bought an alt translite for STTNG and thought might as well get all new glass and trim for it.
I got the new glass and trim today from Marcos. And the trim is extremely loose on the translite to where it won't hold. I know some people use tape to help hold it still, but I wouldn't think I would need to do that. I have changed out translites before and normally it's a piece of cake. But I can't get my STTNG to hold firm.
The parts I ordered are (I have the botttom trim):
Trim side channel - 17 inch glass edge 03-8228-3
Trim side channel - 27 inch translite top 03-8228-2
Glass Backglass clear 27 x 18-7/8 x 1/8 inches 08-7456
Did I order the wrong items?
Thanks!
By chance would you be interested in selling your original translite? Would anyone for that matter?
Quoted from Nacman:Since I finally have mine in good working condition, can you explain how (I am sure there are many methods) what needs to be done in the game that creates the massive jackpot payouts? is it deep in the ruleset, doing FF several times??? My highest score I believe is around 2.5B....Your son's score is 10X that! Wow!!!
Correct. He got to three final frontiers and I believe collected 15 artifacts. So each shot in his last FF was worth 275m. That on top of the cool 3b bonus!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Have any of you tried to install the extra tantalum caps on the back of the driver board to help ensure there is a solid 5V coming from the driver board as described here:
https://flippers.com/will-tips.html#Thermistor
He is right about the datasheet on the part and that the WPC schematics have an error. One important piece of information that is lacking however is the workoing voltage specs of the caps used. When using tantalum caps I always try to use ones that have at least 3 times the rated working voltage. I'm going to use ones rate at 50V on the input and 35V on the output (could be a bit lower on the output) which are ones I have on hand.
Nope. May 2020 / Covid I just replaced all of the caps and rectifiers including c8 after installing pinsound as I was in reset hell. No resets and fast as shire now.
C9B7A158-A81C-4DFD-A272-05926A1BC482 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:1993 Vintage News coverage of Star Trek The Next Generation pinball, and the skills it takes to play pinball in competition
RIP Lyman Sheats. This is a great find.
1 week later
11 months later
Quoted from spidey:Nice! But video mode artifacts make baby Jesus cry. House rules: skip the video mode
The game should really reset artifacts once you hit FF, otherwise scores get insane.
I disagree but oh well. To me that would be full rinse and repeat and make second passes around as truncated and disappointing as the back nine on no good gophers. The reward for going around twice or even three times are multi billions in final frontier. The game caps out max shot value at 250 million in final frontier. But it’s nice to get a 4B pop for your kick ass efforts.
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