(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


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#2052 6 years ago
Quoted from newmanoconnor:

schwaggs start here...watch the video midway down...https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-comet-leds-for-the-shields?

You're talking about this video?

If so, both of the LEDs shown look pretty bad to me. They do dim, but they both flicker at lower brightness. The author of that post also says:

Quoted from JBBOPT:

I tested incandescents vs 2 flex optix vs optix maxiums, maximus almost flickers more and was a little overpowering on the areas inserts.
my next try is the smd5050s linked above im thinking of ordering 9 of the frosted cyan or maybe clear?

It sounds to me like he wasn't satisfied with the results.

I don't care if you buy a board or not, but I've seen you asking this question in what feels like half a dozen threads, and some very knowledgeable people have responded. I do not think that good results for both dimming and flicker rejection are possible in a standard sized LED. To avoid the flicker, you end up using capacitors, assuming you can find high enough values that are small enough to fit. Those end up charging to the input voltage and the LEDs will show near full brightness.

#2063 6 years ago

Each GI string is fused at 2A on GI OCD. You can run a max of probably 5 incandescent or so per string, along with the remaining LEDs.

I don't think that's Mocean was getting at, though. It wouldn't make much sense to leave a bunch of bulbs incandescent AND install a GI OCD. If you want to keep to a budget, which is entirely understandable, keeping all incandescent in the GI is a viable option.

Good options I can think of:
1. Leave it incandescent.
2. Install LEDs in the GI, but leave the shields incandescent to avoid flicker right in the middle of the playfield.
3. Install LEDs and turn off dimming.
4. Find LEDs that work well enough for your personal performance tolerance. There are none that meet this for me, BTW.
5. Other options I'm sure to forget about.
6. Buy a GI OCD and install LEDs.

...and dammit, I've tried really hard to not post any advertisements about my boards, and now I have. I really don't want to push them on anyone who doesn't want to buy or even read about them.

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