Star Trek: The Next Generation
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Quoted from transprtr4u:Also regresed the left rear ball diverted ... Back to 100%
I thought greasing/lubing anything was a bad idea as it attracts fine metal dust particles and eventually gums up the mechanism. I just cleaned one of the subway ball diverters because of this, as the game could never load the right cannon.
Quoted from Kronlar:With regards to both windows. Green or blue? I see both for sale...
Green all the way! I've never seen a blue Borg ship.
That said, it goes against the image on the translite.
Quoted from transprtr4u:What would be in your collection ?
Quoted from transprtr4u:Just because you may dislike DE doesn't mean everybody has too!
True, one man's trash is another man's treasure.
Quoted from mwong168:No need to put a new wire or solder anything. Read this write up my friend made here for tie back fix.
http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/
After many blown transistors, melted coils and one new 8-driver PCB, I finally did this on mine, never had an issue since.
Quoted from Mocean:This is a fantastic mod, and the Hallmark Klingon bird of Prey is a relatively inexpensive, well painted and nicely detailed model.
Agreed! It challenges your soldering skills but looks great once its done!
Quoted from Mocean:The problem is once you swap out the Bird of Prey, you'll notice just how cheap the Romulan Warbird looks... Hallmark has you covered there, too.
Yes, but I understand this mod is much more difficult than the BoP. I have the ornament but haven't tackled the mod yet.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Just take all of the wires, solder them into a single 4 lamp series circuit and call it done. I used heat shrink over every connection and installed a 2 pin molex connector in place of the original tree lighting socket and called it done!
Of course, that's the picture you left out. 
Quoted from Zitt:I honestly never considered the STNG WingLed mod to be complex... but I guess it is if you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron to begin with.
Not complex, just very fine and delicate soldering.
Quoted from Yesh23:Are these 2 plastics at the top of the ramps factory? When I hit the ramps, sometimes the ball doesn't make it up the ramps and the flippers seem to have enough power. The ball hits at the top of the plastic guards. I don't know if my flippers are set too high? Anything else that could cause this if these are factory?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I had the same issue specifically on the shuttle ramp; on mine I know there's a spacer (maybe 1/4") between the ramp and the clear plastic at the top of the ramp. Not sure if the spacer is factory or not.
Hope someone can help me, I've lost my GI. I played a game without issue on Saturday morning, then played another game later in the afternoon and the GIs were out. I didn't touch anything. In test the inserts, flashers, and backbox lights all work fine, just no GIs.
This appears to be something bigger than just bad fuses. Any ideas?
Quoted from Pin_Guy:First off ... read the General Illumination Problems found at this link http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems ... there is a lot of good info here.
There are 5 sets of GI lights each with its own fuse; what you need to do is look for a common failure point; there are a couple of things that cause cause this and range for easy to really bad.
The BAD:
Failure of your transformers 6.3 VAC secondary winding. This is extremely rare.
[quoted image]
Easy:
Bad ribbon cable between CPU and PDB - flip it over and see what happens
Disconnected GI lighting cable from the transformer
[quoted image]
Moderate:
Failure of PDB U1
Followed the steps in the pinwiki document, which seem to suggest the issue is off-board as there is no AC voltage at J120/J121. I've confirmed this by swapping driver boards with no change. Unfortunately pinwiki speaks a lot about on-board issues, but not too much about off-board.
Some of the GI kinda work; they aren't very bright but they do light. Examples would be the rollover GIs and the shield GIs. Does anyone have any ideas of how almost all of the GIs would spontaneously stop working all at the same time, and it doesn't appear to be aboard issue?
How would I go about checking the transformer 6.3 VAC?
Quoted from Hammerhead:Followed the steps in the pinwiki document, which seem to suggest the issue is off-board as there is no AC voltage at J120/J121. I've confirmed this by swapping driver boards with no change. Unfortunately pinwiki speaks a lot about on-board issues, but not too much about off-board.
Some of the GI kinda work; they aren't very bright but they do light. Examples would be the rollover GIs and the shield GIs. Does anyone have any ideas of how almost all of the GIs would spontaneously stop working all at the same time, and it doesn't appear to be aboard issue?
How would I go about checking the transformer 6.3 VAC?
Bump, any help would be great.
Why 7 and 9? per the schematic 7 is White-Yellow and 9 is Orange. Shouldn't it be 4 and 9? Or 7 and 5?
Quoted from Pin_Guy:You are looking at the wrong side; ALL of these wires are yellow not white (one side of the secondary winding has white stripes). You have to measure across the secondary winding, consult the wiring diagram in the WPS schematic I attached. One side of the winding connects to pins 1, 4, and 7. the other side connects tp pins 3, 6, 9, 5.
You can use any combination you like 1-3, 1-6, 1-9, 1-5, 4-3, 4,6, 4-9, 4-5, 7-3, 7-6, 7-9, or 7-5; like I said I measured 7-9 as they were easiest since they were on top.
All right, made some progress. At least its not the transformer. I got most of the GI working, but nothing on the purple wire works. Testing at J120/J121 gets 0V AC on purple, where all the others now are at 6.8V. F106 tests okay, so the search continues.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:okay...so you are placing one lead on J120/J121-6 or J120/J121-11 ? where is the other lead?
Please measure between J121-6 and J121- 11 if its good there playfield issue, if not...board issue.
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Nevermind, I found the problem. 
I'm tweaking my STTNG to work flawlessly and I have a few questions:
1) The left VUK that feeds the wireform can sometimes hangup and not spit out a ball. You can hear it firing over and over again but no ball comes out (always it seems when I'm in a timed mode and I need the ball in play). Other times it works without issue. Any idea where I should be looking first?
2) During Borg Multiball, after the shields are down is it correct for all three balls to be launched back into play?
Quoted from Hammerhead:I'm tweaking my STTNG to work flawlessly and I have a few questions:
1) The left VUK that feeds the wireform can sometimes hangup and not spit out a ball. You can hear it firing over and over again but no ball comes out (always it seems when I'm in a timed mode and I need the ball in play). Other times it works without issue. Any idea where I should be looking first?
How dented can the inside of the VUK get before the balls start getting hung up inside the VUK instead of shooting out? There appears to be some kind of sleeve inside the VUK. Is it removable? Is it replaceable?
I'm having some switch issues, most don't affect game play but one does. I'd like to fix them all and I expect its relatively easy, but I'll run this by the community.
- R. Bank Top 54 also activates Trough L.R.4 64
- R. Bank Middle 55 also activates Trough L.R.5 65
- R. Bank Bottom 56 also activates Trough L.R.6 66
These three are on the same switch rows so there's some relation, but they don't affect game play. The next one is the main issue.
- L. Top Bank 51 also activates Under Borg Hole 47
This means that I start missions every time I hit the top left standup target. I don't see the relation between these two switches in the switch matrix.
Coincidentally(?) all issues are related to optos.
Any help would be appreciated.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Do I have the tie back mod already done on this machine?
I don’t know what to look for. M
Thanks!!![quoted image]
Doesn’t look like it. On the coil ground lug there are three ground wires, two heavy gauge wires and one light gauge. The light gauge wire is connected to the auxiliary driver board. That is the wire that needs to be modified.
Update: what he said. ^^^^^^
Quoted from Hammerhead:I'm having some switch issues, most don't affect game play but one does. I'd like to fix them all and I expect its relatively easy, but I'll run this by the community.
- R. Bank Top 54 also activates Trough L.R.4 64
- R. Bank Middle 55 also activates Trough L.R.5 65
- R. Bank Bottom 56 also activates Trough L.R.6 66
These three are on the same switch rows so there's some relation, but they don't affect game play. The next one is the main issue.
- L. Top Bank 51 also activates Under Borg Hole 47
This means that I start missions every time I hit the top left standup target. I don't see the relation between these two switches in the switch matrix.
Coincidentally(?) all issues are related to optos.
Any help would be appreciated.
I thought this had gone away, but played a game today and the problem is back.
I don’t see anything in the switch matrix that looks like an obvious relationship between the switches and the errors
Quoted from Hammerhead:I thought this had gone away, but played a game today and the problem is back.
I don’t see anything in the switch matrix that looks like an obvious relationship between the switches and the errors
If I remove all of the balls and test the switches everything works fine. When I put the balls back in the trough (before the game loads them into the subway) the error comes back.
Following up on an older post, hope someone can help.
When all balls are in the trough (not yet staged) the six standup targets register double hits corresponding to the ball trough optos - switches 51 and 61, 52 and 62, 53 and 63, 54 and 64, 55 and 65, 56 and 66. As the balls are staged into the game and the trough empties, some of the double hits go away.
The trough opto boards were replaced by the previous owner with the Pinball Haus boards, not sure if this is a contributing factor.
Anyone ever experience something similar before?
Quoted from Hammerhead:Following up on an older post, hope someone can help.
When all balls are in the trough (not yet staged) the six standup targets register double hits corresponding to the ball trough optos - switches 51 and 61, 52 and 62, 53 and 63, 54 and 64, 55 and 65, 56 and 66. As the balls are staged into the game and the trough empties, some of the double hits go away.
The trough opto boards were replaced by the previous owner with the Pinball Haus boards, not sure if this is a contributing factor.
Anyone ever experience something similar before?
When I disconnect the trough opto boards completely, the cannons start rotating back and forth, and won't stop until I reconnect the opto boards. Does that sound right?
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:LX-8 is about 2 weeks away. Look back several pages on this blog for some references. Simply put, it's going to be worth the years of wait.
All I can say on this topic. The release will be available for download and burn from International Pinball Database when available.
With 21 pages of "read me" information.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357
Will it work with the Silly sound roms?
Can anyone post photos of the trough board connectors on their STTNG. On mine, the LED PCB connector is chewed up pretty bad and the photo transistor PCB connector has been reconstructed, but on both connectors the +12V and ground wires don't match the manual.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Upgrade to something new which you will use every single game.
This works fantastic for $59 for the SET
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https://www.pinballlife.com/7-opto-trough-board-set-for-williamsbally-widebody-pinball-machines.html
Yes, the pin came with new homepin boards, its the connectors that are suspect.
Quoted from DumbAss:You can post images of your wiring as well. The wiring in the manual is correct.[quoted image]
This is what I have, likely the cause of my switch issues
6010D284-E2C2-48E1-8252-0E536EEB4289.jpeg7A8BB1F1-1991-4C2E-ADD9-003A016570ED.jpegQuoted from Hammerhead:This is what I have, likely the cause of my switch issues
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nope, that wasn't it after all.
This switch matrix glitch is kicking my ass! 
Quoted from DumbAss:Sorry. Got distracted. The wire order looks correct. What is of importance is that there is no "loop" for the GRY-YEL wire. It is supposed to be wired in parallel but with each individual wire going into the connector, there is no "loop" and therefore it is not wired in parallel. The parallel wiring is achieved by the connection on the board. This means that if you remove the connector you break the parallel wiring.
This appears to apply for both the transmitter connector (5 pins) and the receiver connector (12 pins). It does not explain whatever your problem is if the connectors are inserted into the headers. I have no clue what your problem is since it doesn't look like you have actually specified what it is.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/166#post-7224958
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/167#post-7269102
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/171#post-7316356
Quoted from Hammerhead:Nope, that wasn't it after all.
This switch matrix glitch is kicking my ass!
The rabbit hole deepens. I've now lost all coils, GIs and flashers. On top of that, I'm getting a switch matrix error in rows 1 and 2.
I've traced the switch matrix issues to the MPU board, which is a Rottendog replacement by the previous owner. Has anyone else had issues with these replacement boards causing issues?
I feel I should mention there's a ColorDMD on my STTNG. I read somewhere else that the ColorDMD was causing switch errors on a DemoMan , which also had a Rottendog MPU.
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