Hello folks, New owner of an STTNG! I found how to set free play up on the game, but I would like to turn off the option to continue the game after the last ball has drained.
(Topic ID: 47092)
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Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from oradke:Feature adjustment setting #10. See page 38 of this PDF:
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/S/Star_Trek_TNG_OPS.pdf
Thank you, I over looked that some how.
I was wondering if there is a guide that well help in aligning/rebuilding the cannon assembly. The small crank arm (white linkage part) of the cannon that attaches to the motor busted on me just a little while ago. I did find what I think is the correct part to replace it with.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8619
1 week later
Quoted from Zitt:I also sell both cheaper if it matters to anyone.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/crank-p-58.html
I missed this earlier, but I did buy some other mods from you! Thank you!
Well I found this: A1 25 Allow Dim Illumination The game program dims the General Illumination for special effects and during the Attract Mode. YES Dim the General Illumination during the Attract Mode. NO Do Not dim the General Illumination.
and it was set to yes. Do all the bulbs need to be changed out to #44/47s? I still have the pop bumpers and under the kickers that I have not changed out.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I believe the only dimming GI during gameplay is the 3 blue shield inserts in the middle of the pf (yes it's GI). That's how you track if your shields are still up during Cardassian atttack and Borg multiball.
Thank you sir. That is what I'm seeing.
Well I got a problem. I just did the Tieback mod and now none of the coils work and I now get theses error messages that there is a Ground Short on Row 2, 5, 6, and 7.
I have never worked a Ground short like this before. How do I go about this?
I pulled the chip (74ALS576) from the 8-driver board and each leg tested 0.5 to 0.5, which I'm hoping that means the internal gates are good.
Reason that I am looking at the 8-driver board is because with it pulled I dont get any more error messages and the Fuse 112 dont blow. I also tested the Tip120 and the 2n4403. They all tested good also. Not sure that I on the right path.
Well, I feel pretty stupid right now.....The ribbon cable going to the MPU was not connected correctly. It was backwards, so when I tried to hook the ribbon cable to the 8-driver board the correct way, I was getting the errors.
2 months later
The lights in the back box are dim and will not change to bright when starting a new game. Is there a setting in the menu that I can adjust to keep it from dimming, or do I have other issues at hand.
What does LED 3 on the driver board used for and how should it be lite? Mine is off and on in no pattern at all.
Thank you sir! I found that LED3 provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn't very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates.
So I'm back to try understand why the backboard lights are very dim.
Quoted from radium:I think J120 and J121 are interchangeable, but let someone confirm first. You can plug backbox to the other header and see if any change.
I tried that with no change.
Quoted from radium:Did you check power saver in adjustments? I think that effects when the game is idle only though?
Yes it is on, but I did turn it off and rebooted, but no change.
Quoted from radium:I’d reflow solder on those headers and re-pin the connectors.
I have not reflowed the headers, but the connector is new.
Quoted from Zitt:GI lights are bad about browning connectors and pins.
If you have bad pins; the connectors are bad too.
Many people rarely do both.
If you aren't getting dimming effects in the Lamp test... and you don't have an OCGi product; then you either have an electrical dimmer problem on the GI... or more likely bad connectors, pins, or cracked solder joints.
The lights do dim in the backbox in the lamp test.
I when ahead and changed out the pins to be on the safe side. They still looked shiny to me. Going to put everything back together and see what I got.
20210823_183634 (resized).jpgI also changed out J120 again. Still have dim lights on the backbox.
How does the dimmer function work and where would it be?
1 month later
Quoted from jazc4:It goes on the connector that ties the spiral wireform with the cross wireform. In this picture it should be turned to parallel the straight wireform.[quoted image]
I'm missing that piece myself. What is it suppose to do?
2 weeks later
The top piece is a Hex spacer found here. https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Hex+spacer
The bottom piece is a bumper post.
I looked here, but I cant never find what I need. https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/foky/#p=13
I would take apart the post and measure it. Should find if faster at Marco's than looking for it at Planetary Pinball's web site.
6 months later
I got a problem where after a game is over, the ball keeps being launched over and over again after the ball drains. Only way to stop it is to pick the ball up, or turn the pin off. Starts up again if the pin is restarted. How would I test this to find the issue?
This started right after some balls got hung up and the pin went it to ball search mode a few times. I found a broken rubber under the Borg ship that was hanging up the balls.
Where Is the top diverter? Is it located under the Borg ship? So I can understand, how does the diverter work with the ball launcher?
Quoted from Manny65:STTNG stages 3 balls at various VUKs prior to a game being played - the subway has 2 diverters which that game triggers to direct the balls to the appropriate VUK. So if you remove all the balls from the game and then put them back in, the game will then proceed to launch 3 balls to stage them; depending upon where the balls are located at the end of a game, the machine may need to restage 1-3 balls.
To check the diverters, remove all the balls and raise the PF - you'll see the diverters in subway. Then go into Solenoid test and scroll through to you get to the diverters - remember to close the coin door to verify the coils are working.
That makes sense. I got 4 balls in the trough.
Quoted from MrMikeman:One of the subway diverters is not working. Most likely the top diverter.
Thank you for your suggestion. I found that the shaft for the top diverter was gummed up. After cleaning, everything worked as it should.
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