I just purchased a STTNG and it seems I have an issue in the upper right of the playfield. Any ideas on how best to address it?

Many thanks for any advice,

- Brian

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Thanks all for the advice (I am new to pinball)... BTW: All the lamps have been replaced with LED's so I shouldn't get any more damage. Once the machine is delivered I will take off the mylar and see what's up. Where can I get the insert if it can't be repaired?

- Brian

I am buying my first pin and I was wondering is there a recommended method to fully test STTNG to ensure everything is working? It has been fully shopped (w/ neutral zone cliffy and LED's), is there anything I should make sure is done?

Thanks,

Brian

Wow thanks for all the inputs! I will have one busy weekend

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I did have to tweak a few things (including some scary oven time to flatten some of the plastics) Now it seems everything is working well.

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I set my oven to 150F with two clean single strength scrap glass sheets about 10x14 and a heavy glass bowl to warm up. Once they did I put in my plastic parts between the glass sheets and put the bowl on top. Baked for about 15 min (saw that it was mostly flat at that point) and turned off the heat. Once it was cooled to room temp I had very flat plastics.

Quite scary but it does work.

In my case nothing stuck but I watched it closely and cut the heat as soon as I could. My Ferengi Plastic was really bad and already had a crack in it; so I thought it was worth a shot. Now it looks much better.

I have noted one issue. It seems sometimes the Neutral zone hole does not always trigger (advance in rank hole does instead). Any suggestions for this?

Thanks for the information... I will look to tune the middle switch to make the game more "accurate". Another question; I see several mod's that put a light in the neutral zone hole; can anyone share how is this hooked up?

Thanks,

- Brian

Does anyone know where I can get the LX-7 patched ROM for ghosting LED's? I have access to an EPROM burner but I can't find the file.

Many thanks,

Brian

Found the under PF LED mounting instructions.

Found the patching program. The game looks much better now.

My awesome tech set my the subway diverters as follows:
- The small one at rest should just touch the inside of the subway
- The larger one when fully engaged should be in the middle of the split of the subway

Since the posts were slightly deformed he had to dremel it a bit to tighten it properly.

I'll see if I can grab some Picts tonight.

VAC vs VDC question: I know the 6.3v GI sockets are AC powered. Besides them are there any other sockets or motors (esp. gun motors) that are not DC?

Thanks,

- Brian

Thanks for the info. I am thinking of putting a laser into the borg ship to "shoot" towards the flippers and powering it off of one of the lamps. It wouldn't work with AC power.

I have a green line laser that I think would be cool if it were shot towards the PF...

Just turned on my machine after being off for over a month and the display is not working. Only one line is showing (see picture). Any advice on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

- Brian

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