I just purchased a STTNG and it seems I have an issue in the upper right of the playfield. Any ideas on how best to address it?
Many thanks for any advice,
- Brian
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Thanks all for the advice (I am new to pinball)... BTW: All the lamps have been replaced with LED's so I shouldn't get any more damage. Once the machine is delivered I will take off the mylar and see what's up. Where can I get the insert if it can't be repaired?
- Brian
I set my oven to 150F with two clean single strength scrap glass sheets about 10x14 and a heavy glass bowl to warm up. Once they did I put in my plastic parts between the glass sheets and put the bowl on top. Baked for about 15 min (saw that it was mostly flat at that point) and turned off the heat. Once it was cooled to room temp I had very flat plastics.
Quite scary but it does work.
In my case nothing stuck but I watched it closely and cut the heat as soon as I could. My Ferengi Plastic was really bad and already had a crack in it; so I thought it was worth a shot. Now it looks much better.
Quoted from mavantix:That's cool. I will have to try that on some of my plastics. No issue with the back of the plastic (the silk screened side) sticking to the glass?
I have noted one issue. It seems sometimes the Neutral zone hole does not always trigger (advance in rank hole does instead). Any suggestions for this?
Thanks for the information... I will look to tune the middle switch to make the game more "accurate". Another question; I see several mod's that put a light in the neutral zone hole; can anyone share how is this hooked up?
Thanks,
- Brian
Does anyone know where I can get the LX-7 patched ROM for ghosting LED's? I have access to an EPROM burner but I can't find the file.
Many thanks,
Brian
Found the under PF LED mounting instructions.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Parts:
22-24 gauge stranded hook up wire
1 color changer LED: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2262
1 555 light socket: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=294
1 1/2" hex head screw: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=224
yes I have OCD ... and all the lamp socket screws should have unslotted hex heads with a yellow zinc plating
Quoted from Bdkorn:Thanks for the information... I will look to tune the middle switch to make the game more "accurate". Another question; I see several mod's that put a light in the neutral zone hole; can anyone share how is this hooked up?
Thanks,
- Brian
Found the patching program. The game looks much better now.
Quoted from Bdkorn:Does anyone know where I can get the LX-7 patched ROM for ghosting LED's? I have access to an EPROM burner but I can't find the file.
Many thanks,
Brian
My awesome tech set my the subway diverters as follows:
- The small one at rest should just touch the inside of the subway
- The larger one when fully engaged should be in the middle of the split of the subway
Since the posts were slightly deformed he had to dremel it a bit to tighten it properly.
I'll see if I can grab some Picts tonight.
Thanks for the info. I am thinking of putting a laser into the borg ship to "shoot" towards the flippers and powering it off of one of the lamps. It wouldn't work with AC power.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:nope.
gun motors use unregulated 12VDC
well ... the controlled lighting is technically not DC as it's pulsed by the lamp matrix.
Quoted from BobC:I don't think you'd see anything but a dot on your apron if you leaned over the machine
You don't really see the beam unless it's going through fog or something
I have a green line laser that I think would be cool if it were shot towards the PF...
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