(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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  • 3,630 posts
  • 315 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 194 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (10 months ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (10 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1028 2 years ago

Hello everyone I'm new to pinside and got my first ever pin for Christmas. It's a STTNG and I love it.

I'm certainly thinking of adding a color DMD but have read it takes a different ROM version than I have (LA-7 vs LX-7).

Can someone recommend a place to order the LX-7 ROM and provide some of idea of what's involved to actually change out the ROM?

Thanks in advance!

#1031 2 years ago

Thanks for the replies and sharing your knowledge. Seems like this shouldn't be too tough to do.

#1033 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I tend to use John Wart at (www.) that pinball place!
Very knowledgable and has been around a long time!

New ROM ordered. Thanks for the info. I'm impressed with his operation. VERY helpful!

Now for that color DMD

#1062 2 years ago

Just in case someone else wants to try this, I thought I'd post some notes on having my phaser handle and trigger powder coated.

1) Don't powder coat the trigger! It won't fit back in the handles correctly. Had to strip the coating off. Would have looked cool in gloss red but just didn't work. So instead of a color I polished it to a mirror finish and I think I like this better

2) My phaser handle had apparently been re-painted at some point and there was a reaction with the powder during cure making a nasty mess. After stripping and sandblasting and reapplying the powder coat it turned out GREAT! I would recommend removing all of the existing paint/coating before powder coating.

3) Take before pictures "before" you finish so you can compare. I can only provide pictures of the "after" . I'll post them later

#1063 2 years ago

Forgot to mention, be sure to apply a clear coat after the color coat to help with wear.

#1071 2 years ago

White or black replacement rubbers? Opinions?

#1078 2 years ago

Thanks for the input on the rubbers. Just ordered a set of translucents. It's going to look great!

#1080 2 years ago

I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done.

1 week later
#1225 2 years ago

Here's a question for you guys.

What is the "proper" position of the "Advance in Rank"/"Command Decision" plastic lamp board under/in front of the Romulan ship? When I look at IPDB photos it seems it is placed in front of the top surface of the Delta Ramp in front of the Romulan ship but there are no mounting holes in the supporting plastic for this location. Mine came "wedged" under the Delta Ramp under the Romulan ship using the mounting holes located toward the back of the supporting plastic piece.

Any ideas or opinions?

#1243 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You should get a lot of oppinions on this as this piece really never seemed to fit well. When I did my restore, I replaced this plastic as it was bent and scratched from being wedged against the delta ramp.
What I did was pulled out my Dremel and used it to trim the top part of the delta ramp so this piece can mount without hitting the ramp. This in no way decreased the strength of the delta ramp as there is still plenty of material there.
Before:

After:

I'm glad to know I'm not the only one that thinks the placement of this part is an issue. I thought about cutting the Delta ramp down as you did but was a little afraid to do so. I'm not sure where I'd get a replacement if I mess it up. What type of tool did you use in your Dremel? (stone, router, sanding cylinder??)

Thanks for the reply!

1 week later
#1281 2 years ago

I noticed some strange behavior of my left cannon lamp (lamp 52). It does not respond during the individual lamp test yet I see it flashing (occasionally) during attract mode. I've traced continuity in both wires (red and yellow) from the lamp socket to the board and see voltage at the board. There is a diode connecting the red wire to the lamp socket like the schematic indicates. Am I missing something that would keep this lamp from working correctly? I assume since I see it illuminate during attract that the diode is good. I've tried known good bulbs as well. A push in the right direction would be appreciated.

Thanks!

#1282 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Wow... either my search skills are horrible or these just came back in stock! Thanks!

Just saw these pop up at Marcospecialties.com as well. I'm glad to know someone is making them.

#1283 2 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

There was a guy in the Huntsville/Madison area who had a modded STTNG for sale on Craigslist a while back. I'm not sure if it's still up there. If not, you can probably call the guy on CL who is always posting looking for games for sale in Huntsville. I understand he's been in the business for about 30 years and probably can point you in the right direction.

It funny you mention this because I think I'm the one that bought it but it wasn't modded. There was a heavily modded one around the same time but I don't remember if it was in H'ville/Madison. Its a small world. That guy had a house full of machines and was making room for the new kiddo. Was a great transaction! I'm waiting for him to post his next one.

#1289 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

That is very helpful thanks a ton!

Please let me know if you need dimensions to make the bracket. I'll measure mine for you.

#1293 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Has anyone installed the protectors for the alpha ramp? They dont line up on mine, almost need to modify the ramp. Im hesitant to cut off the corners of a brnad new ramp. And it seems like the posts need to be higher.

No need mod the ramp. You'll have to bend the tabs into a more usable position relative to the posts. I had to do this on my Alpha and Delta guards. I didn't think it was too tough to do and I'm fairly new to this stuff.

#1326 2 years ago
Quoted from Walamab:

I noticed some strange behavior of my left cannon lamp (lamp 52). It does not respond during the individual lamp test yet I see it flashing (occasionally) during attract mode. I've traced continuity in both wires (red and yellow) from the lamp socket to the board and see voltage at the board. There is a diode connecting the red wire to the lamp socket like the schematic indicates. Am I missing something that would keep this lamp from working correctly? I assume since I see it illuminate during attract that the diode is good. I've tried known good bulbs as well. A push in the right direction would be appreciated.
Thanks!

For what it's worth...I go to the bottom of this one. Turns out it was the flaky Molex connector that the gun harness lamp lead use. Replaced it an now it works great. Maybe this will help someone else.

#1349 2 years ago

Is there a connector on the power driver board or elsewhere to get +5VDC? I'm trying to modify the way the LED strips at the back and in the drain react when Borg Multi-ball starts and when video mode is activated.

I'm thinking of using a solid state relay to use the GI circuit to switch the relay providing 12V to the LED strips. The solid state relay requires a +5V supply.

Thanks in advance for the help.

#1350 2 years ago

Is there a connector on the power driver board or elsewhere to get +5VDC? I'm trying to modify the way the LED strips at the back and in the drain react when Borg Multi-ball starts and when video mode is activated.

I'm thinking of using a solid state relay to use the GI circuit to switch the relay providing 12V to the LED strips. The solid state relay requires a +5V supply.

Thanks in advance for the help.

#1351 2 years ago

Is there a connector on the power driver board or elsewhere to get +5VDC? I'm trying to modify the way the LED strips at the back and in the drain react when Borg Multi-ball starts and when video mode is activated.

I'm thinking of using a solid state relay to use the GI circuit to switch the relay providing 12V to the LED strips. The solid state relay requires a +5V supply.

Thanks in advance for the help.

#1352 2 years ago

sorry for the triple post...not sure what happened there...

#1398 2 years ago

Hello everyone.

I'm trying to track down a Shield insert (or 2) for my STTNG. So far emails to CPR and planetary pinball have not been successful. Does anyone have a source for these parts or perhaps 1 or 2 they'd like to sell?

Thanks in advance

#1411 2 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

Yep I got them from Australia too.
Mr. Pinball is the store

They have them!!!

I can't thank you guys enough for helping find them. I was about to embark on trying to resin cast my own...

Ordered 6 just in case I mess one (or 5) up .

Thanks again!

1 week later
#1424 2 years ago

Just finished my doityourself Hallmark Klingon BOP mod had to use a resistor to keep it from overheating. Used 2 10Watt 6.hm in parallel. 1/4 Watt resistors just got too hot. Still want to swap the LEDs under the wings for red.

IMG_0104 (resized).JPG

IMG_0106 (resized).JPG

#1426 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Just curious...how did you arrive at these values for your current limiting resistors?

I didn't use the most scientific method (like using V=iR). Rather I performed multiple experiments with various resistors. Oddly enough I ended up with the same value as listed in an old post that turned up in a google search. The parallel wiring was another experiment to try to reduce the heating load on the single 1/4 Watt resistor I tried originally. I just kept it when using the 10Watt resistors. I also liked the slightly brighter result that the resulting 3.4Ohm resistance provides.

Sorry it's not more scientific

#1436 2 years ago

Just ordered an LED colorDMD for my STTNG. This is going to be great !

#1437 2 years ago
Quoted from brewmanager:

I bent my wookie....err, broke my Increase Ferengi Jackpot Plastic.
Does anyone know where I can source one, or maybe have an extra after replacing a plastic set?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1803-10

I had to replace mine recently too. If you don't have protectors underneath your plastics, I would recommend adding them and don't tighten them down too much. Finger tight is good.

#1456 2 years ago

Just installed a new LED colorDMD ... it's the best upgrade I've made so far

IMG_0118 (resized).JPG

#1461 2 years ago

Hello everyone.

I have a shield insert question. I received 6 teal inserts from Mr. Pinball in Australia. They are very nice .

My question is...The existing inserts appear more translucent that transparent are they supposed to be foggy?. The replacements are transparent. Is there something I can do if they are supposed to be translucent? Spray back with flat clear perhaps? Fog with CA glue?

Opinions will be appreciated...

thanks in advance

#1465 2 years ago

Thanks for the replies. "Milky" is a much better description of what I see on the original inserts. I was expecting the new one to look the same after I sanded and cleared it. Guess I'll just have to replace all three .

Thanks again!

1 month later
#1582 2 years ago

I'd add to make sure the cannons turn with a ball loaded.

The factory grease can turn to "glue" on the shafts. Mine would turn without a ball ball in them but slowed to a crawl with a ball loaded.

Its easy to fix but its something to check.

1 month later
#1679 2 years ago
Quoted from Grauwulf:

We are in the club now!

Welcome

3 weeks later
#1735 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

managed to knock out the star trek symbol light

Look in the manual for a common row or column in the lamp matrix. This will help you know where to look for problems.

2 months later
#1890 2 years ago

Q Continuum is achieved when you "buy-in" for extra balls and exceed a score threshold.

Not sure about officer's club

2 years later
#3591 11 days ago
Quoted from MikeSinMD:

at color are the borg windows originally?

Mine were and are blue. I put blue LEDs behind them.

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