Shrewsbury, NJ
Is there any chance this game could be remade?
(Topic ID: 47092)
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Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
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1 week later
I hope Stern/Kapow make a Next Generation machine.
What they’re doing with Batman 66 would work great with 7 seasons of Next Generation.
Quoted from JimB:Really would work with TOS. Shatner will approve and maybe do some voice overs if asked.
I would jump at that in a heartbeat too.
After seeing what can be done with so much material, I hope it’s somethinf Stern will look to do more of.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:pezpunk
Yes, I am fairly confident that replacing the board will fix your machine, I would be a little more confident if I knew for sure your column 6 drive was working even though it appears to be based on switch 68 working.
I'm more confident that your original board (assuming it's original) can be repaired, so my offer still stands to repair your board if you desire. While this repair technically would be cost prohibited over buying a new board, I'll do this repair for you as one STTNG owner to another so all you are paying for is the shipping cost.
More proof that Star Trek fans are one of the best people out there!
3 years later
Quoted from marioparty34:With your pinside name, how did you ever leave?
The one I had, was loaded with too many issues. 5 years ago, I didn’t really know what I was doing with repairs. Now, I’m well versed in keeping a game working perfectly.
Quoted from midcoastsurf:Maybe a fan of the 1970's Bally Star Trek? Now looking to round out the collection?
No interest in non DMD games.
I really wish Next Generation would get remade. I’d be all in on an LE.
2 months later
Think there’s any chance this will be remade by Chicago gaming? I can’t imagine Next Generation license being expensive.
I can only imagine what an LE would look like…just look at what they did with Attack from Mars.
Quoted from sparksterz:Some of them have been reproduced as copies of the originals: https://pinballbasement.com/collections/wpc89-boards
There's others such as the trough optos that have upgraded boards as well - just depends on what you're after.
Is this better than Rottendog?
2 weeks later
Does anyone have a drawing of how to cut the 3rd pop bumper?
I'm picking one up and I'd like to add that to it.
Quoted from Enaud:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/122#post-6385873
Print it out and use it to guide your cutting.
Thank you!
Little confused about the pin sound board. From what I’ve read, will the pin sound board have all the original sounds/music/call outs, just in better sound?
If so, is it the base program or that has to be programmed in?
Thanks, just not familiar with it.
1 month later
Anyone put new decals on their cabinet?
If so, where did you get them? How was the quality?
I’m looking at Mr Pinball in Australia and Pinball Decals in Europe.
Thanks for any help!
1 week later
Quoted from Ballypinball:Ours
[quoted image][quoted image]
I’m assuming you’re the Australian ones. LOL
I just ordered from you guys the other day.
Quoted from radium:Really like the blacked out look, I might do this
I did that with mine.
Beezleboob will be posting photos of it in the next couple weeks.
2 weeks later
Quoted from danczaz:Where do I get these 3 piece lane guides… in purple?[quoted image]
Following. I want them too.
Quoted from scooter8416:I ordered these; https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8318-10 for mine but haven't installed them yet. They look more purple than blue to me.
I ordered them and they were definitely blue.
Quoted from scooter8416:[quoted image]
I hope you’re not wearing the same glasses as Scooter……
J/K
Those are the same blue as the ones I ordered.
11 months later
Question about the shields and what lights to use.
I remember reading in the past that the LED flashers don’t give off the sane effect as the original bulbs. What are people using? What about the 2 lights next to it?
Is there any place to buy a new shuttle? Mine looks kind of sad
Or is there a way to lighten up plastic?
I just bought new ramps. Is there a way to get the stickers on them perfectly?
2 weeks later
I got my apron powder coated and I got my replacement decals (mirrored ones) to apply.
Any advice on how to get these lined up properly?
Quoted from radium:Peel only a portion of the decal to start. I brush a little decal setting solution onto the apron (lets you slide the decal around a bit). Get the decal lined up how you want it, squeegee out the solution when you want to lock it down, peel the backer and keep applying until done.
Oh and if you use setting solution, you might want to test it by putting a little on the underside of the decal to make sure there is no weird reaction. I've never run into this in any application though.
Would soapy water do the trick too?
Quoted from jibmums:Please post pics when done! I need to re-decal my apron also, where did you get these?
https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/STTNG_Page.html
1 week later
I got the decals on the best I could. I kept the 2 high ones farther away from the screw holes than they should be. This is to keep the screw from messing with them. They look good. Just takes a while to get them lined up and on.
6CEB0F20-DC6B-4134-BFE9-560843B9AF97 (resized).jpeg847FA1BC-491F-414C-A1E1-CCEB9021E7FD (resized).jpegAF22279F-DA1B-41B5-94BC-5EFF4C0A19A8 (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from radium:ColorDMD…. LED or LCD?
I’m a fan of the LED.
Quoted from radium:Guess I’ll try LED, glad I asked, thanks!
Simple install. I think it looks great.
Quoted from MrMikeman:The ramp has to be installed to adjust the diverter. Once installed, you adjust the position of it "on". You pull in the coil plunger with your hand and align the diverter so it sends the ball to the habitrail. Not far enough you will hit the corner of the Y-split in the ramp. Too far you will block the ball from going down the habitrail.
Will do!
Thank you!!!
Quoted from MrMikeman:The ramp has to be installed to adjust the diverter. Once installed, you adjust the position of it "on". You pull in the coil plunger with your hand and align the diverter so it sends the ball to the habitrail. Not far enough you will hit the corner of the Y-split in the ramp. Too far you will block the ball from going down the habitrail.
Got it to work.
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Need help with this switch. I got my game back together tonight, but this switch isn’t working. Ugh. [quoted image]
Fixed.
Bad switch. Luckily I had an extra switch and diode.
Quoted from Manny65:Can't tell with that pic. You need to look at where J4-1 on the 8 driver board is powered from - if connected directly to one of J107 (pin 1-3) or J108 (pin 1-3) or J106 (pin 1,3-4) then it has the tie-back mod. Note the original tie-back wire (the thinner of the 3 violet-green wires on drop target coil in the pic) can still be connected even when the tie-back mod is in place, it just depends how the mod is done.
If in doubt, post pics of the 4 connectors mentioned
Please let me know and what the easiest possible mod is. Thank you!!!!
0A8A05CE-8E74-43B6-9A1E-157A4F422E2A (resized).jpeg423774BD-117F-47C1-BFBE-CED07CE151CA (resized).jpeg7D32FEFE-012F-4D39-97F2-0D557B3454C8 (resized).jpeg7E1963A0-2C62-48EB-829A-1527BB7E7F88 (resized).jpeghttps://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-crimp-stuff-3-position-housing-with-locking-ramp-17575.html
Is that the correct part to perform this version of the tie back mod:
https://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/
I’m just thinking that if all I have to do is reroute the tie back wire to the board, that may be the easiest and safest way to go about it.
Suggestions?
Quoted from radium:That’s correct. Need pins and a crimper too. This is the same way I did my tieback… simple and clean.
Awesome. Thank you!!!
Quoted from DragonLord:Hi everyone! I'm considering picking up a STTNG. I've heard that this machine can be hard to keep running. I heard this on a recent podcast as well as when I was asking my operator friend on his thoughts on the game. He sold his because it kept breaking down.
Thank you for your help!
My friends thought I was crazy buying it again.
I got all new ramps, clear plastics (had to use peroxide on a couple that isn’t made), Color LED, had my borg ship painted, lightened up the shuttle with peroxide and new decals, powder coated apron and put on mirrored decals, new bulbs in most places (I prefer cool white), cliffy’s, had to replace 2 switches on the ramps, had to clean up the delta ramp diverter. One of my friends did a refurbishment on the cabinet with new decals and powder coated armor.
I thought I knew a lot about pinball repair….taking apart the game and putting it back together taught me so much more too (but I won’t do board work).
In the home environment, I can’t imagine it really breaking down much. IMO, I don’t think there’s enough plays for it be constantly working on.
Quoted from DragonLord:How's the fun factor in this game?
I currently have a modern game (star wars), early 20s (LOTR), and early solid state (Superman). I'm targeting four pins and was thinking a 90s pin with fun ramps and rule set would fit perfectly.
Thoughts on if STTNG fits this void in the collection perfectly.
Don’t install the laser on the guns. It makes the shots way too easy.
You should like it. The best part of the game is the whole cast does call outs.
Quoted from jibmums:Like Trekkie1978 above, this game really has me pushing the limits of my skills (and my wallet, replacing so many parts).
[quoted image]
Beatles is a breeze to work on.
Iron man ramps are easy to take off.
Ramps on this game were a lot easier than expected, but still some work.
Finally done partially resulting my machine.
- cabinet stripped, fixed, painted and new decals. This was done courtesy of @beelzeboob. He did a great job.
- new clear plastics from pinball life. The 2 clear plastics not included, I did the peroxide method. Those 2 came out great, not perfect.
- new ramps and ramp decals.
- pop bumper under the beta ramp, I friended down so it wouldn’t hit the underside of the ramp.
- titan rubbers throughout.
- powder coated the gun, legs and armor.
- powder coated apron and got mirrored decals from pinball decals and apron cards from them too.
- the ship I sat in peroxide which cleaned it up. New decals on the ship.
- new LEDs (all frosted except for flashers) in the game. All cool white, except for the flashers/lights in borg ship, under the Romulan ship, the 2 stand ups by the delta ramp. I went with incandescent lights for the shields.
- Color LED (I prefer the LED over the LCD, just personal choice. I like to keep it as stock looking as possible.
- new Cannon covers. What a difference from the old ones.
- borg ship painted and green windows installed. Painting done courtesy of @eddie.
Only had to change 2 switches (1 on delta and 1 on beta ramps).
- super bands for the flippers.
1FCDBD42-F214-4B61-80FE-A0CBAA1D8642 (resized).jpeg5B3CD2AE-AABC-4251-959F-F0D01693FBA7 (resized).jpeg91BB6A72-2BDC-4B82-9C59-F6896D6A156F (resized).jpeg91E0718C-BAD8-4EBC-8BB9-79B0DBDC2856 (resized).jpeg920E43E1-B647-416C-B66D-C47C7516F877 (resized).jpeg9646DD89-25BB-4173-BFC2-CB8B6CD63011 (resized).jpeg9672C732-0651-4960-A6ED-FE6886CC48D4 (resized).jpegA6F3711C-5955-4CA0-AB9B-40FFB113C350 (resized).jpegAF7ACDA5-A93D-49E1-BDA6-954174DC5022 (resized).jpegBBFD70F1-ABF4-46E8-B41A-F7A515729317 (resized).jpegCF22C4F6-D8C8-4BB6-BD45-70B8078B011F (resized).jpegDBB94307-6D98-413C-828A-50D0726BFD03 (resized).jpegE50AB3B8-3C41-4C0E-8F40-63C1133D310F (resized).jpegE67B27BF-0C42-48CF-9198-E33603FA7388 (resized).jpegQuoted from beelzeboob:Let's see the back of that bad boy.
AA952D54-AD4A-4CF6-93A2-1D3EC5683EBC (resized).jpegB8D019ED-9B53-4659-8D63-B3F5600F8180 (resized).jpegCAA8BD3B-F39A-4BB5-AD32-F9763DE92374 (resized).jpegD3E8F92B-0715-4DD1-8670-A1858E1C461E (resized).jpegQuoted from jibmums:Game looks great. Where did you get the metal protector for the left side of the Delta ramp, or is that an original? How does the "mirror" finish look on those apron decals?
Original for the delta ramp.
Something I just learned. I bought the mantis protectors for the alpha ramp…they don’t fit the new ramps. Guess not the end of the world because the plastic is a lot thicker.
Does anyone need a set for their alpha ramp?
The mirror finish looks fantastic.
I try to keep my games as stock looming as possible, but glad I went with those decals instead of the standard ones.
Quoted from Deleenhe:Thanks for the troubleshooting help, she’s up and running. What a fantastic game! I was a bit confused by the balls that were automatically launching to populate the subway and I had to adjust a diverter which was not allowing balls to the right gun. The shooter Lane switch was also not being made by the balls so they were piling up on each other. After that, it all seems to work and I am super excited. Now for some under playfield cleanup, LED OCD boards and some new lighting…[quoted image]
I would get rid of the speaker lights. It looks like it washes out the insignia on the speakers.
Quoted from Deleenhe:I agree, I think I can reduce their intensity which might help. I'm not big on the powder purple theme, I will be replacing the pop bumper caps at the earliest opportunity. For now, I'm just trying to figure out the game and all the rules.
Black powder coat is the only way to go with this machine.
Quoted from kstairmantis:The alpha ramps will work on the new thicker ramps. The curve is the same. The mounting point needs to be changed. Just take pliers and bend the front tab. Use double sided tape once the tab is correct. They make the new ramps bulletproof. I've done it on a couple of STTNG games. It works great!
Kerry - Mantis
Any chance you have a picture?
Anyone know where to buy new decals for the spinner?
I’ve had no luck finding them.
Is there another game with decals very similar that is in stock somewhere?
For the tie back method, I have decided to go with:
https://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/
I noticed on the advice he gave further down, he mentioned replacing the connector on the Aux board with a molex connector. To me, it makes so much more sense just to bullet proof the game even further.
Thoughts?
Quoted from Manny65:Just be aware that putting the tie-back wire on a separate connector (ie J108) compared to the primary connector (J107) introduces the risk that if J108 was ever not connected (eg during a power driver board swap or repair) then it'd cause the exact behaviour you're trying to avoid (given that the original tie-back wire has also been removed as part of the procedure). This is where getting power from J107 is better in that tie-back power is always provided whenever J107 (that powers the coils) is connected.
If 108 has power, then I'm good?
Does it matter which pin on 107 for the tie back?
Quoted from jibmums:FWIW Pinsider DumbAss has a tieback mod for sale that consists of a couple of small piggyback boards. I picked it up for mine b/c it seemed simpler to install than me possibly f-ing things up by doing it myself.
I'd like to see this too. I emailed Pinball Heaven about getting some installation photos and they said they don't have any (which honestly, I don't know how that's possible, since it's their product, but whatever).
I’m not a fan of adding boards. Just a personal preference.
Quoted from Manny65:J108 does have power and will do the job, however you MUST ensure that J108 is ALWAYS connected - failure to do this will result in damaging the Aux 8 driver board and locking on coils. Whereas using J107 to power the tie-back eliminates this risk.
Regardless of whether you are connecting the tie-back to J107 or J108, it is CRITICAL that you use pin 1 (which ties it to the 50V line that powers the coils on the Aux 8 driver board). If for example you used pin 2 or 3 for the tie-back, while it would seem to work, a failure of the respective fuse (F104 or F105) would result in damaging the Aux 8 driver board and locking on coils.
I’m going to J107 pin 1.
At J107, that is pin 5 that is being used?
Just want to make sure I’m understanding this correctly.
Thank you for the tips!!!
EBF4D136-7321-49DD-A45B-A9FC494988FA (resized).jpeg
4CBD23BA-15C6-4E82-A297-0E315E0B1BCD (resized).jpegQuoted from Manny65:J107 is a 6 pin connector, with the key in J107-4. You need to connect the purple-green tie-back wire to the purple-green wire in J107-1.
I found this online.
Now I understand exactly where to put the wire.
Is it possible to put 2 wires into 1 slot on a molex connector?
202EF79E-6B8A-44BD-B9BA-EC2191561223 (resized).jpegQuoted from slochar:Yes if you are careful crimping it in. Molex doesn't recommend it, but people have been doing it for a long time successfully. You can also take the 2 wires and make a short Y type connection as well, solder the Y and heatshrink it.
Is there such a thing as a T molex connector?
Quoted from DragonLord:What are peoples opinions on what mods are the best and add the most value to TNG? Anyone have art blades that look awesome?
Upgraded cannon covers (I think it’s called Mike’s). Do it without the laser. Makes the game too easy.
Color DMD. I’m a fan of the color LED.
LED lights. I went with incandescent for the shields.
Grinding down the pop bumper so it doesn’t hit the beta ramp. If ramps are yellowed, get new ramps and clear plastics.
If apron damaged, powder coat and put mirrored stickers on.
There’s my 2 cents.
Powder coat gun handle, legs and armor.
Paint the borg ship and use new windows with color matching LEDs (green or blue).
Cliffy’s….not sure if it’s considered a mod.
Titan rubbers and super bands for the flippers.
Quoted from squaresville:I'm having a very similar issue with my STTNG right now as well: lock is spontaneously lighting, sometimes as soon as you start a game and before initial ball launch. Data is repeatedly letting me know "readings indicate lock is lit." In my limited experience, I'm thinking this may be due to a flaky, worn out switch on the drop target mech and ordered a replacement that's on the way. Does that sound right?
I'm very surprised that this is the first tech issue I've had with this machine since buying it nearly three years ago. Hopefully my borrowed time is not up and things don't begin to fall apart from here on out!
Did you order the diode too?
It's probably the switch. Something is triggering the game to do that. Switch is the easiest thing to replace, so why not start there. I would do the same thing.
Quoted from DragonLord:Anyone out there have painted ships and cannons they are proud of? I'd like to paint mine and I'm looking for inspiration. Also any good pictures from the original ships from the show.
928F7320-EC6A-403B-B7B0-60AD7AE77473 (resized).jpegQuoted from SantaEatsCheese:I just put incandecents back in the shields a few months ago for the effect. It's neat!
I did the same thing on mine.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Steve100:Pop bumper hitting beta ramp - any fix ?
Hi all, doing many thinks to my new STTNG. Now working on the pop bumpers.
Does anyone have a solution to the bumper ring banging into the underside of the beta ramp ?
Thanks
I did it to mine too. Test it out first before putting on a new sticker to the ramp.
Quoted from Mathazar:Not adjustable in terms of length of time, just ON or OFF. From the manual:
A.2 Feature Adjustments
#12 - Return to Duty
This is a ball saving feature. The ball is returned to the player if it is drained at the beginning of ball-in-play.
ON = The ball is returned to the player.
OFF = The ball is not returned to the player.
Ahhhhhhh
I was looking for something that said “Ball Save”. Awesome. Thank you so much.
1 month later
1 week later
I received the Lx-8 chip today.
Quick question installing it....for the answer, pretend I have absolutely no idea how to install these things.
When I remove the old chip, do I just slide the new one in place? Is there any side that has to be up or it doesn't matter?
1 week later
I put the new chip in today.
Where do I set date and time? I found where I can pick the format, but couldn’t find where to input date and time.
In the one adjustment, it says something about LED. Does this make the game act differently with LEDs in it?
Can I stack a multiball on top of a running mode? If so, is there an adjustment I need to turn on.
Quoted from koji:The LED patch has been applied to this ROM, so if you were looking to apply that fix, you don't need to worry about it. I presume that is what you are thinking of?
Nothing changes for date and time setting, this is in the utilities menu.
There is no change to the Multiball so far as stacking goes. Q is the only mode which will stack with Borg Multiball.
What exactly is the LED patch?
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:With your new LX-8 (if you burned the rom), there was a text document covering every setting. I believe you can also find it on several sites if you look. None of the other setting have moved or changed, like setting the time, free play and so on.
I bought the rom.
I’m really good at playing pinball and fixing things on the playfield. When it comes to the electronics and software….I know next to nothing.
I’ll look for the document.
6 months later
1 month later
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Was thinking of adding a color dmd to my STTNG. I never really thought about the LED version. Always bought the LCD version for my past pins. However after installing a color LED one on my friends Avatar, now I’m torn. Thoughts?
I put LED in mine and I think it looks perfect.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:So there is, as expected ,a wide stance on lcd vs led displays for this amazing game. Reading color dmd’s website, the video of STTNG was dotxl LCD on their website. Does anyone have a video of the led version? I know the LCD version can do high res scan etc, just wondering how the LED version compares. Is it like the OEM but in color? I love the LCD on my last/ current pins like Addams family, judge Dredd, LOTR.
Not sure if there is any power saving using the LED version over the lcd.
I doubt there’s much if any energy savings. If there is, you probably won’t be able to see it in your bill.
Anyone local enough to you to take a look at the screens?
If you’re ever in NJ, you can coke take a look.
3 months later
Quoted from Zitt:Have you ever had your coil wire "fail" and become dislodged from the coil lug and have to go solder it back in?
Just the other night, I had to solder a wire that fell off a switch on a friend's game.
4 weeks later
Quoted from GCS2000:Point me in the right direction. Coin door lights aren’t working.
Recently got this particular STTNG and not sure if they were working before or not.
Where should I start other than replacing the bulbs which did not help.
They worked before.
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