(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1475 6 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

Hi, I'm looking for the far right metal ramp if anyone has one leftover from a restore. The one on the project I picked up is rusty beyond repair I fear. Thanks!

Evaporust and a buffing wheel are your friends

1 year later
#2697 5 years ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Quick question. Tonight I managed to smash the glass for my translite. Grrrrr.... The translite came away relatively undamaged, although it already had a few blemishes.
Has anyone bought the CPR mirrored backglass? I’m considering it but wanted some feedback.
This game will be the death of me. I’m just starting to bring it back to life. One cannon loom replaced today, I’m sure I’ll find more stuff wrong tomorrow. Just now starting the restore process. Trying to decide if this game is worthy of a full restore. It needs virtually everything. Playfield has wear, cabinet needs redone, etc...

I have seen them side by side and the CPR seems to be over saturated. I have seen a couple like this, the BOP backglass looks like this too. If you light them with LED they look great as the colors really pop then but if your staying with regular bulbs, I’m guessing it will look dark.

4 weeks later
#2813 5 years ago

It’s not a spring issue. If you look at the coil retention bracket, you will see a dimple or circle where the plunger has damaged it from use. The edge of the plunger actually hangs up on the bracket. You can either replace the braclet or file it down a bit if it’s not that deep.

6 months later
#3500 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

So now my turn -
There is a lot of play in my right cannon. It frequently misaligns slightly (maybe 8-10 degrees off) and the ball will get caught in between the wire form and the cannon trough. It also has a ton of play and I can move it slightly by hand, unlike the left one.
Is there a factory adjustment for fixing this, or do I need to crack open the gear assembly?

There is a circular plate under the coil assembly the 2 Philips screws on either side of the coil on the circular plate allow for adjustments on the cannon alignment. Ill bet the screws worked loose or were not tightened down and the plate is sliding a bit.

2 years later
#7639 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I was hoping it was going to be something (visually) obvious that would cause the entire TWO columns to be taken out.

there is. the acid damage on the board. either acid got under the header pins, the connector has corrosion inside the connector, or you have a trace that got eaten thru under the resistors. that would be my guess

2 months later
#7841 1 year ago

Anyone have a parts game or specifically a right cannon assembly. Rustylizard and I grabbed a project and we know it needs the top parts for sure. Not sure on the motor assembly. Any help with parts would be much appreciated

#7844 1 year ago

Appreciate the quick response guys. Still at work and have not had a chance to unload the game yet

Will report back when we have a definitive list of what’s missing

#7846 1 year ago

Funny you should mention looms. Currently have an old set I’m sending into wire-bot and they should be producing them shortly (I hope). Stay tuned

https://wirebot.xyz/

3 weeks later
#7954 1 year ago
Quoted from ray-dude:

I've looked at this so many times, I may be thinking the wrong way is the right way (this machine also has had a lot of work...what I'm used to from my TZ may not be "right" for how this machine is wired). I will definitely look at it with a fresh set of eyes today and hopefully have a head slap moment.

You can’t use your TZ. Every game is wired differently. You can look at the manual online. From what I see it looks to be correct if the subway is loaded. Like I said though, you will need to double check with the manual.

4 weeks later
#8018 1 year ago
Quoted from ray-dude:

I know I'm going to regret asking this, but any special tricks to cleaning out the extensive subways on TNG? I really don't want to have to remove all that cruft to get access to clean out 30 years of dust and grime.

the short answer is no. the good news is everything is pretty much plug and play. all 3 VUK need to be pulled and the harness for the 2 coils will need to be unplugged also. here is the deal, if you want your game to play great, you have to clean it all anyway. I have a STTNG I'm getting done for a guy and just spent a full evening doing just the subway and optos in the VUK. its a pain but its manageable since you can do it all in the bench. while your down there dont forget to pull the borg lock diverter and clean that too. after 30 years the arm if always crudded up because they greased it from the factory. Dont know if you rebuilt the drop target but I usually do that too while I'm under there. Pinball Life sells the reset coil bracket assembly. thats usually all that screwed up, well that and the wiring.

Good luck! I know its a tough job but your game will play great when your done. if your looking for the easy way to clean the subway, use this.

Bleach White (resized).jpgBleach White (resized).jpg
#8022 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Agreed. A bunch of screws and 2 connectors. Only 1 VUK needs to be removed (the side that has only 1) and you can slide the subway out of the other VUKS sideways. You only need about 1" of side movement to free it.

Probably but you really need to clean the opto anyway. Seriously, you can short cut the subway but if your looking to have a solid player. Pull all 3 and clean the optos while your there. All the grime and crud that’s in the subway….that’s in the VUK too

#8024 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

All 3 VUKS went for an ultrasonic bath. I had installed them back under the PF when I went to put the subway back on. That's why I know only 1 has to be removed to get the subway to go in

Nice. Didn’t think to ultrasound them. Usually just scrub em and blow them off with compressor after rinsing

1 week later
#8064 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Is there any rhyme or reason to the hardware that's used to connect plastic parts to other parts on the playfield? I would have thought that wood screws were used to secure plastics to other plastic parts, like the clear plastics to the plastic ramps; and machine screws used to secure plastics to metal parts, for example when a plastic screws to one of the tabs on the metal walls. When I took apart my Trek though, it was obvious that many parts had been removed/replaced, and any kind of screw was used anywhere. Can anyone corroborate the wood screw to plastic / machine screw to metal theory, so I can put things back together correctly?

You are correct. Wood screws are used when the "holding material" is plastic. Machine screws are used when fastening to metal. I have done 5 of these machines at this point and the screws are never right.

3 weeks later
#8157 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Neutral zone, and the serial # sticker.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have had a few of the German re-imports come back in and have had 2 set up exactly the same as you. The high current cut off wiring isn't present but can easily be added. It's actually a secondary harness and plugs into the main harness after the transformer. I'm having the loom made up and if your interested, the maker should have them in his site along with cannon looms if I can ever get the old ones to him.

2 weeks later
#8211 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

For a game that is a re-import that has been converted to domestic voltage, do you keep the line filter's foreign fuse rating of 8A normal blow, or switch to a 5A slow blow fuse for a domestic game? (from the manual, pg. 1-39)

change the MOV inside the metal box. if its from europe, the MOV will be something like 275v, us voltage need 135-150v. this is to protect from surge like lightning. Change the MOV and the fuse to 5A and you should be good.

https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm#light

about half way down the page.

#8213 1 year ago

yep thats right

#8225 1 year ago

Ok guys the high voltage harness are ready. Hit up Rockwell here on pinside. Not on the Wire-bot site yet be he said he can start getting them made to order if someone needs them.

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#8232 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Ok guys the high voltage harness are ready. Hit up Rockwell here on pinside. Not on the Wire-bot site yet be he said he can start getting them made to order if someone needs them.
[quoted image]

Ok. The cannon looms should be done too

1 week later
#8248 1 year ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Looking back through your posts you have new boards - Pin-Tek CPU board, New Fliptech board, Rottendog 8 driver board (and I think maybe a Rottendog Power Driver board), Pinsound sound board, Pinsound DMDLux board, and ColorDMD; but you also seem to be continually blowing fuses although only intermittently which is always harder to troubleshoot.
The only thing in common between the 4 flipper fuses and F103 (which relates to the 8 driver board) is the CPU board, yet that is new as noted above although you installed the ASIC and game ROM (I'm assuming from the original CPU board). So I wondering whether there is an issue with the ASIC or the CPU board itself; and I also see that you have a Bride of Pinbot which uses the same CPU board and ASIC as STTNG - therefore I'd suggest taking the CPU board from BoP and dropping it into STTNG (move the STTNG game ROM over to the new CPU board) and see if the problem still exists.

That is the worst advice every. NEVER NEVER NEVER put a known working board in a questionable machine! You will get just as much out of putting the MPU out of STTNG in BOP and testing it that way. if you run thru your tests and the board works flawlessly, you know its somewhere else. keep testing each individual board in the BOP til you find the one causing the trouble or you run out of boards (Driver 8, Sound Board). then you have atlease reduced it down to a handfull of possible problems instead of chasing your tail and you dont potentially take down 2 machines

3 weeks later
#8322 1 year ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

The right cannon in battle simulation mode.
The ball does not fire directly to the cannon. Instead the cannon does a full rotation from and back to the home position. Then it loads but won't let me fire until the return journey.
I have tested the home and Mark switches and they are fine.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

I would start by testing the optos period and of coarse take a look at the cannon looms. the actual wires inside the plastic casing can get broken over time and will start to cause errors.

1 week later
#8329 1 year ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Update. Checked optos and wiring. All ok. Problem solved. It was switch adjustment at the home switch.

Good job finding it.

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2 weeks later
#8461 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

A friend on facehugger said he's getting a STNG and wants to bullet proof the cannon looms. I told him to come here and find out where to get a good set.
Can someone recommend a good set of replacement looms? If it's already been mentioned; can someone key post the recommendation?

Foe everyone asking. I sent an original set to Wire Bot here on pinside and he reproduced them. He also has the 50V cut off harness for everyone with a reimport that didn't have it. He uses all factory parts and builds right off the original.

https://wirebot.xyz/collections/cables-harnesses

4 months later
#9103 10 months ago
Quoted from Norcalpin:

Manny,
What are your top 3 fixes for this game? Choose one from Mods, Fixes, and upgrades. Looking forward to your thoughts.
Cheers

Actually, there are 5 "fixes" that need to be done and its a TON of work. That's why STTNG has a bad reputation about being hard to keep running.

1. Tie Back
2. Cannon Looms
3. Rebuild drop target
4. Pull, clean, and rebuild subway
5. (and I can't stress this enough) Clean all the Optos!

Everything else will gust make the game play better or feel better. If any of these 5 are down or broken, you will have problems finding balls, loading balls, or the coils just won't work.

1 week later
#9126 10 months ago
Quoted from Norcalpin:

Well guys,
I went ahead and rebuilt my right flipper and changed the coil as well. I switched it for the stronger coil that was supposed to be in the prototype STTNG. All said and done I can see and feel a difference, but the right flipper is still a tad bit weaker than the left. I thought I read somewhere in the thread that this could be a software issue. Regardless, the game is playing nicely. New balls, waxed playfield, 6.8 pitch, rebuilt cannon VUK's and new flipper rubbers has me coming back for "one more game". Oh, I also did the tie back mod. Up next is some trough and rear playfield lighting!

Did you pull the flipper boards and clean the u shaped optos under each flipper button. you would be surprised how much better the game plays if you clean ALL the optos.

2 weeks later
#9177 9 months ago
Quoted from zimzam:

Just purchased a STTNG last night and excited to dig into it and play.
It came with acrylic for the translite glass and is a little too big. Does anyone have the dimensions of the regular glass size or is it the exact size of the translite?
Thanks
Chip

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-glass-sizes-backglass-sizes-request-for-measurements

27" x 18-7/8" x 1/8"

#9186 9 months ago

Just thought I would show you guys why you need to replace the cannon looms. This new one is from wire-bot. Perfect replacement with the “little extra” on length to get it positioned correctly. I had to cut the ends off to get the old one out since it was so brittle. The red wire for the dome light had one strand left and it broke when I get the cover off. For the $40 replace your looms people and have you game working perfect again

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#9188 9 months ago

Don’t know what shipping to Canada is but….

https://wirebot.xyz/products/sttng-top-gun-cannon-cable

I know $14 each plus shipping in the us came to about $40 for the pair.

He also did the HV cutoff harness for those with re-import machines. Pretty simple cable but a ton of wires just to run the solenoid power to the switch on the cabinet door. Brings the game back to American specs and adds that layer of protection

#9189 9 months ago

For those wondering it’s 8 wires and a diode. Pretty quick update and adds the reliability to the cannons that’s needed to make the game function 100%

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1 week later
#9201 9 months ago
Quoted from centerflank:

I’ve 30 yr originals and they are fine, stop gas lighting

seriously? That's like saying I've never had to change the battery in my car so telling people to change their battery when there is an electrical problem is gas lighting. No, you don't HAVE to change your looms to make the game play great. But if your bulletproofing the game, you damn well better take a look at them. Just like you should pull the subway and do a full rebuild on that too. Third thing would be to rebuild the drop target assembly. Or am I gas lighting on those too? No one has ever had a driver 8 board go out when a wire came off? Or the brass are broken on the target reset? How about the subway diverters so gummed up they don't turn? Or the metal collar broken off on the metal support plate so the whole diverter rocks and won't do its job? No one ever had the opto wires in the cannon snap inside the sheath making it very hard to diagnose a cannon problem? or the coil bracket on the cannon get a groove worn that catches the plunger bell and locks the plunger in the out position?

DO NOT come at me with that crap. I don't give a crap who or what you do. I've been working on machines for over 10 years and learn something new every time I lift a playfield. STTNG was my first WPC game and have worked on enough of them to know what is and isn't going to end up being a problem. Gas lighting would imply I have a agenda or am getting something out of this. I'm trying to spread some knowledge and you shitting on me for it. Don't!

#9222 9 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Sorry, should have specified, I meant where it's wired up inside the cannon itself - coil, bulb holder, optos, etc. and the best way to route it thru the holes in the base and the playfield. The place I bought my new looms says in the instructions to sort of "wrap it around" the shaft so that as the cannon turns, the loom doesn't get tight or bind on the shaft or the playfield, but I have no idea what they might mean.

Don't "wrap" it around anything. Feed the cable up thru the hole stay to the left on the left side and the right on the right side. There is a notch in the cannon plate that the loom "hooks" onto and then you start wiring from there. The pics I posted up have the wiring if you look. the purple are for the coil, the red and yellow are for the bulb. the other 4 are for the optos. you can see it in the pics i posted. then you just tuck the wires in under the cover. I find next to the coil to have the most room (see the next pic).

2 weeks later
#9348 8 months ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Here is a question for the group. On my STNG on the catapult launch, the manual says the switch used is 5647-12133-12. But my switch only has one spade in the back and one on the top and the wiring uses a terminal strip.
But when I look to find a replacement switch, it looks like this which has two spades in the back and one on top. Confused on how to wire the new switch. Anyone have any insight?
[quoted image]

Take a closer look at the switch. Have seen alot of times where the third tab has been broken off. would guess it was at the factory to keep people from wiring it wrong but thats just a guess.

1 week later
#9409 8 months ago
Quoted from slippifishi:

Well if you're getting all nerdy about it (and why not!), and if the poker game is on topic, what about some kind of midnight madness S5E18 easter egg for the poker mode; start the game at midnight, and in the first game of poker you'll get dealt a hand made up of 3s, and Riker with three of a kind!... and then 33 mil when you win!
As I stated before, if/when any new version should require any colourisation updates for PIN2DMD, I will be more than happy to carry out the work.

I think you guys are missing some of the fun and mystery of the game. Yes since the internet can tell everyone everything all the time its not really a secret but doesn't poker mode kind of make since as a hidden mode. It was invite only in the show and without knowing the secret to get into poker mode you were not invited.

all of your suggestions are interesting and sound fun but there is nothing wrong with a throw away mode thats a secret. just making the shuttle random has "fixed" that mode, why muddy the waters with a third option.

4 weeks later
#9497 7 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I’ve fixed worse. Now that the parts are off start by washing the board. Get all the old flux and dirt off so you can see what you have to work with.

take a closer look, that burnt board in a couple spots, not flux. Robot is right though, that totally doable. only see a couple thru holes that are sketchy. keep the new parts off the board a bit and solder on both sides if you need to.

totally worth the colordmd though.

1 week later
#9514 7 months ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

My STNG has been giving me fits for years. With the game on, about every 15 mins, the balls will all load into the shooter lane and fire and re-establish the 3 balls in trough and 3 in the subway for game play. I suspect the optos in the subway or trough are the issue.
Both the CPU and Power Driver Board have been professionally gone through, so it's not a voltage issue as I thought it might be. I've run a different 16 opto board in the game with the same results. Could it be the Z connector in the game and if so what is the fix? Otherwise do I just replace the trough opto boards and see if symptoms persist? Otherwise replace the optos where each ball sits in the subway? Better way you test this intermittent issue?

Open the door and pull the plunger to activate the coils. with the door open bang on the playfield. Seriously, beat the crap out of it. Watch the red led on the trough and see if it flickers. After that, grab the wires feeding into the opto boards for the trough and gently wiggle them a bit and see if the led blinks of flickers. Most of the time when I see this problem it ends up being dirty optos literally anywhere in the game, dirty subway either not diverting or feeding wrong, or the Though with intermittent connector issues.

4 months later
#9876 73 days ago

So…..just got my STTNG back up and running after fixing come creative wiring under the playfield going to the 16 opto board. This one sat for about 4 months as I didn’t have the ability to work thru it til tonight. Replaced all the VUk connectors for all 3 VuK as someone apparently needed to hard wire all 3. In the process of doing that, I ran new looms because they were cut and I was unsure of the integrity. Pretty sure I posted about it and show the condition of the looms. After all that work the cannons were not working any more but everything showed as working. Cannon test showed home and mark. Had continuity to all wires from the cannons all the way to the backbox. Pulled the 16 opto board and tested all the 339. Couldn’t get it to work for the life of me so it sat. Tonight I had some time and was sick of it sitting so I started over with all the testing and noticed the load cannon optos were not reading. Tested all the wires again and continuity. Then when I took the phone and was trying to see light on the led guess what I find? A fricking blue led. Pull both boards out of the plastic holder and both have been replaced and PUT IN BACKWARDS! Re-wired the looms correctly and never thought to check the opto since they were working before. Whoever “fixed” the looms originally must have done it backwards and that’s why all the hard wiring under the playfield trying to ge them working. All sorted out now but putting a heads up out there. If the cannon opto are not working it will kill the entire cannon unit as it seeing it as either broken or ball jam

IMG_7954 (resized).jpegIMG_7954 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#9961 66 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Looking over my STTNG and noticed my subway bracket with the diverters has had some serious repairs and reworked.
Does this all need to be rebuilt with new?
Diverters cannot be tested due to no boards and fries coils which will be replaced when I get parts. Left diverter is fully locked when moving manually right has some movement but not full range. Of course the fried coils are locking things down. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

To answer your question, the collars are press fit into the stainless plate. Over time or poor maintenance, they can work loose or become detached. They are reinforcement for the diverter shafts and I have not seen one for sale. They don't look great as I would have used a TIG welder instead if a wire feed but it looks to be functional. I would leave it unless your welding skills are up to par.

#9975 64 days ago
Quoted from sfspanky:

Exactly! I’ve had success and failure working on these boards. More failures than successes and I’m super careful with good equipment, techniques and due diligence. Nothing wrong with replacing with new and improved hardware. Also a fan of keeping OG running. Experience will dictate what is appropriate

Not trying to knock anyone here but I'm going to second the keeping OG equipment working. I have replaced boards many times and will continue to do so. Please keep in mind when doing so, the cheapest is EXACTLY that! Go to Weebly or Dumbass, skip the cheaper alternatives as I have seen too many of those fail in too short of a time frame. Usually just in time to not get a replacement. the OG has lasted 30+ years with poor maintenance and keep working. Fix it properly and you will be happy in the long run.

As far as success or failure, I have continued to improve my equipment over the years and am at a good place now. Started with the plug into the wall $20 iron and worked my way thru older Weller into Hakko equipment now. I'm finding just like boards, the more you spend on good equipment, the better your results. Lots of knockoff rework stations out there and have heard nothing but horror storied and have a few boards downstairs showing how the heat control just wasn't there. The better the equipment the better your results.

#9979 63 days ago

I’m usually not one to beg but I’m looking for a couple plastics that’s are broke on my game and I’m hoping someone has them. No it’s not the usually broken ones for once

The big corner plastic in the back left corner under all the ramps and the little clear piece with all the posts at the entrance to the command descision shot (right behind the delta ramp protecting ball jams there)

Anyone have either or both from a rebuild please let me know. Would be a shame to grab a plastic set for 2 plastics that are not usually broke

2 weeks later
#10083 46 days ago
Quoted from Santis:

Hi. You can order the whole store since is cheap. Lol. Canon switch has a diode. First check for continuity. If diode is good no need to replace them ( do you know how to check for continuity?). Good luck.

no, he is asking where the diode on the loom is suppose to be. Pretty sure the Diode goes on the red wire that goes to the light.

Some will correct me if I’m wrong but lamp matrix says diode between lamp and red wire banded side to the wire

IMG_7986 (resized).jpegIMG_7986 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#10144 35 days ago
Quoted from pinbuoy:

Hey gang, I'm shopping out a STTNG for a friend, the Borg Ship is mounted w slots.
Does it really matter where it goes in those slots L to R?
I guess if they don't like it they can always take the cover off and adjust.
Just wondering if there was a preference from the community.
thanks

The slots are to help with the variance in all the parts that attach to the assembly. The metal plate has some flex in it also that makes it a little troublesome to get everything back together. I usually run all 4 screws in and then attach the delta ramp. That tells me where the left 2 screws are gonna fit. then adjust the right 2 screws to make the borg ship fit over the metal plate. Don't forget to go thru the lamp sockets while you have the assembly out.

3 weeks later
#10229 10 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Before I tilt up any of my playfields, I drape manila folders over the sides of the cab, specifically folded to fit over the metal siderails and hang down inside. The playfield grazes against the folder on its way up or down, so no scratches or paint loss to the inside of the cab.

Good idea but pinball life makes cabinet protectors to do just that.

As far as scraping, the playfield is so heavy I have noticed the hangers get bent in a bit over time. You can straighten them with a crescent wrench or channel locks. Just make sure to go slow and protect the metal. You can also add a washer between the nut and the cabinet to keep the playfield centered. Couple of small tweaks should clear it up

1 week later
#10253 3 days ago
Quoted from siddhartha:

This is my first pin. I got it a couple weeks ago. I wanted to give it a good surface cleaning, but I noticed that some of the target switches were bent, so I replaced them. Then I noticed some plastics were yellowed so I cleaned them and replaced the cracked ones. Then I figured I should replace all the coil sleeves as well. Then I noticed the rubbers where old and cracked. Then I figured I should replace all the plastic posts as well. Then I noticed the subway was dirty, so I did a deep clean of that. Then I noticed slop in the pop bumpers, so I rebuilt those. Habitrails could use a good polish too. Borg ship acetate was wrinkly, so that had to go. Now my playfield looks like this:
[quoted image]
What a hobby.

LOL Wait til you find out you still need to do the cannon looms, pull the subway and fully clean (scrubbing bubbles SSSSOOO satisfying), Rebuild the whole drop target assembly (reset bracket is always broken), Pull and clean the borg diverter, and clean and reheat all the opto on the trough and VUK. Its a great game and worth the effort. A good clean STTNG is SUPER fun to play!

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Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
6,000
Machine - For Sale
West Chester, PA
$ 199.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 63.95
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
$ 125.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 19.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
Led
$ 85.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Pinball Haus
Led
$ 9.95
From: $ 11.00
6,000
Machine - For Sale
Warner Robins, GA
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 599.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Juz PINBALL Mods
Toppers
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

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