(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • 10,264 posts
  • 552 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by jibmums
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1867 6 years ago

I watched the first hour of Discovery and

6 months later
#2199 6 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Getting 11.56 volts DC at test point one with positive lead on test point and negative on ground strap in the back box with the game is attract mode. Is this OK? Or should it be a minimum of 12 volts DC meaning my caps aren't great.

I also had a problem with my 12 volt unregulated being low which only showed up after installing the ColorDMD but I had noticed problems before that. The 12 volt unregulated powers the optos and the cannon motors which will affect the flippers as well as slow down the cannons. Here is a video I made showing the process of testing the voltages and replacing the Bridge Rectifiers and Filter Capacitors on the Power Driver Board.

2 weeks later
#2257 5 years ago
Quoted from angus:

All the optos are working great. The game does start missions correctly during game play. It is a pretty clean game as it was completely disassembled a couple years ago and cleaned. Only a few hundred games since then. I did a lot of testing in switch test already. it will go to the R gun in switch test occasionally. So it really seems like it is just the ball wanting to go down that path occasionally and not the diverter. I guess I need to try and get a movie with my phone to figure it out.

I had problems with 2 of my ball diverters. One was sticking from old hard grease and the other the arm was out of adjustment. I made 2 videos dealing with each one. Maybe they will help with yours.

#2264 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

First off, WELCOME TO THE CLUB!!! You now have, what I consider to be, the best pinball ever made.
The only "real" issue I see here is that you have a bad trough opto, and in this game its a big problem. More than likely you either have a broken load resistor on your transmitter board, or a failed IR LED, these are very easy to fix. The opto board is subject to a lot of vibration...especially if its a first generation board without the anti-shock bushings.

I agree and I happen to have a video for that too.

8 months later
#2612 5 years ago

I had problems with slow moving cannons, weak upper right flipper and opto problems which got worse after I installed my color DMD. Turned out my 12 volt unregulated power supply was only outputting 10.5 volts. My Power Driver Board still had original capacitors so I pulled the board and replaced all the bridge rectifiers and filter capacitors which brought my 12 volt unregulated voltage back up to over 12 volts and everything has been working great ever sense. I made a video which shows testing the voltages and installing the new bridge rectifiers and filter capacitors. Test your voltages and if they are OK then you might have a diverter problem. I had 2 diverter problems with my game, one was sticking from dryed grease and the other was not adjusted properly. I have videos of those too.



9 months later
#3586 4 years ago

Mine broke years ago. Pretty sure it was the factory lock down bar. It was originally spot welded together. The spot welds broke on mine. I drilled a hole in the spot welds on the lower bracket, clamped it together and welded it together with an old AC stick welder. Doesn't look pretty but it works. You can see discoloration spots on the top side where the weld got hot but it doesn't bother me.

sttng 019 (resized).JPGsttng 019 (resized).JPGsttng 020 (resized).JPGsttng 020 (resized).JPG
3 months later
#3873 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

For those who have the laser cannons like Mick sells and have the updated hand painted style, how, if at all do you attach the lasers? Or can you not use the lasers?

I installed a set of his laser canons back in 2013 and they are still working great. I highly recommend this kit.

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