Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider SNES.
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Hey everyone, I just joined the club a couple of weeks ago! On game turn on, are both cannons supposed to run a test? My right cannon goes back and forth but the left one doesn’t move. It works fine during gameplay though. Any idea what that is about?
Thanks!
Quoted from ingo333:Hi SNES,
also pretty "new" here.... if you search for it, you will find posts telling none of them should move, others stating that both should move. Posts that tell you to replace cables, and posts that tell you that it doesn't matter....
During the last year, I saw my cannons moving both, only the right one, and only the left one... I had replaced cables, optos, coilsleeves.. it seems to be pretty random actually....
last week I decided to have a closer look. here is what I've found:
- the plunger is pretty small, if you think that the opto is designed to be interrupted by a ball.
- remove the cannon cover, go to switch test and then push the plunger manually (leave the coin door open! there is a coil close by.....)
- if I do it here and push the plunger a little from the bottom, it interrupts the opto.
- if I push the plunger a little more from the top, the opto is not interrupted!!
- if I push it in the middle, then it is a bit random I would say....
then I removed the receiver on one cannon and checked what's going on there. (see picture 1 and 2)
[quoted image] [quoted image]
I haven't replaced the coil-holders(?) so they might have an influence on the plungers "end-position".. (see pic 3).
[quoted image]
anyway, adjusting the optos seems to be the key to get either both canons moving at start or none of them. the little pcb on which the optos are can be moved a little more up to block the beam, or you can lower the opto a little to get the cannons moving.
I've added a small spacer above the opto holder to get them more down... although people are saying that this is a test for the cannons - I've just checked 2 days ago, that if this is a test, it doesn't seem to be really testing something.. maybe if the "home-switch" is released when the cannons start moving, but for everything else (e.g. disconnected mark switches), there is no error triggered or reported.
pretty happy that my cannons are not moving at start-up anymore =)it's not only working with Ferengi Multiball... it's also working within PinMame!!! I guess we really have found a bug..... thanks for reporting and restoring my sanity... I've rebuilt half of my pinball searching why this is happening.... =)
Awesome write up! I’ll have to dig into it a little and see what I can find. Thank you for the pointers!
Anyone seen an issue with this game where it doesn’t boot, but just flickers all the lights every 5 seconds or so? Ironically my daughter and I were just going to play a few games before listing it for sale and now it doesn’t boot. Nice timing
Quoted from Manny65:What do the 3 diagnostic LEDs on the CPU board show? If you are unsure how to interpret them then take a video of them as you power the game on and post it for us to check
Hey, sorry for the delay. Haven’t had a chance to dig into this really. D19 and D21 light up but D20 stays off. I’m assuming those are the three diagnostic LEDs, right?
Thank you!
Well, maybe I spoke too soon. Just went down to mess with the trough kick out and the game was doing the same no boot thing. I unplugged the sound board and it booted right up. Any suggestions on what to look for on the sound board?
Thank you!
Quoted from MrMikeman:First thing would be to try a new ribbon cable. They do fail occasionally(intermittent contact).
Thank you for the suggestion! I just purchased some cables and will update when I get them installed.
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West Chester, PA